The Laker/Lutz News

Serving Lutz since 1964 and Pasco since 1981.
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Nicole Pinson

Winter and monarch butterflies

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Monarch butterflies are a welcome garden visitor, and they bring joy to any butterfly gardener. People who have experienced raising butterflies, have watched them go through their metamorphosis.

For those who haven’t seen this, monarchs — like other butterflies — go through a complete metamorphosis. They change shape from an egg, to a larva, then a pupa – also called a chrysalis, and then emerge as an adult butterfly.

You may help prevent the spread of Ophryocystis elektroscirrha (OE), a harmful parasite, by cutting back tropical milkweed plants during winter. When OE infects monarch caterpillars, it may cause them to turn a dark color, lose their shape, live shorter lives, and emerge from a chrysalis malformed or unhealthy. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

To successfully raise butterflies, home gardeners must have nectar and host plants.

Nectar plants are flowering plants that provide nectar for the adult butterflies. Examples  include pentas, rosinweed, jatropha and plumbago, to name a few.

Planting lots of different flowering plants, with many colors and staggered bloom times, helps attract different butterfly species.

Host plants are specific for each type of butterfly you want to attract.

The host plant is where the adult female butterfly lays eggs. The caterpillars hatch from the egg and eat the leaves, sometimes the stem and flowers, too, of the host plants. You should expect some leaf damage because this is normal as the butterfly larvae eat the leaves of their host plant.

Host plants include milkweed, pipevine, passion flower, plumbago and parsley.

Having a combination of host and nectar plants in your garden will encourage butterflies to stay there throughout the year.

Milkweed is one of the most common host plants home gardeners use to attract monarch butterflies. Milkweeds may be native or non-native. There is increased effort by butterfly organizations and the University of Florida/IFAS to encourage gardeners to plant more native milkweed.

Native milkweeds, which can be found at your local native plant nurseries, include white swamp milkweed (Asclepias perennis), pinewoods milkweed (Asclepias humistrata) and pink swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata).

Some milkweeds grow best in certain types of landscapes. Talk with the nursery to select the milkweeds that would grow best in your location.

A growing concern centers on tropical milkweed (Asclepias curassavica). Tropical milkweed continues to grow and flower throughout the winter, whereas our native milkweeds generally die back to the ground. Tropical milkweed is not native to Florida or the United States, and it blooms and flowers all year – attracting monarchs to lay eggs when they ordinarily would not.

Monarch butterflies are a welcome visitor to home gardens.

But, home gardeners love tropical milkweed, and it is an important plant for nurseries and consumer horticulture. Tropical milkweed is easy to grow, especially for children, and has bright, attractive flowers.

Recognizing this appreciation for tropical milkweed, the current recommendation is to cut tropical milkweed plants back through winter. As a rule of thumb, around Thanksgiving is a good time to cut back your tropical milkweed. Cut it back to the ground, or to about 6 inches from the ground, and repeat as needed.

Cutting back the tropical milkweed plants mimics the natural tendency of our native milkweeds to die back in the winter. This practice prevents monarchs from laying more eggs through the winter.

Another concern is the threat of a parasite that affects monarchs called Ophryocystis elektroscirrha, or OE for short. OE is a protozoan that spreads by spores. When OE infects monarch caterpillars, it may cause them to turn a dark color, lose their shape, live shorter lives, and emerge from a chrysalis malformed or unhealthy.

For those who have raised monarch caterpillars indoors, you may have seen this happen. When OE infects a group of caterpillars, it’s very disheartening to a butterfly gardener.

Ways to prevent OE when raising monarchs indoors are to step up the cleanliness and avoid overcrowding too many caterpillars in an enclosure. Cutting back tropical milkweed in the winter is another way to reduce the spread of OE spores to monarch eggs and caterpillars.

Fortunately, there’s space for tropical milkweed and native milkweeds in home and school gardens.

Continue to experiment with native milkweeds and enjoy the monarch butterflies that visit your garden. If you have kids, grandkids or students, talk with them about this process.

Don’t forget to cut back your tropical milkweed through the winter to reduce the threat of OE and to promote monarch health.

Also, consider joining a citizen science initiative or participating in the Florida Museum of Natural History’s Wings Over Florida program, where you may earn fun certificates for identifying butterfly species at https://floridabirdingtrail.com/wings-over-florida-butterflies/.

Here are some more helpful links:

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/IN/IN78000.pdf

https://monarchjointventure.org/images/uploads/documents/Oe_fact_sheet.pdf

https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/design/types-of-gardens/butterfly-gardens.html

https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/ornamentals/milkweed.html

https://www.floridamuseum.ufl.edu/discover-butterflies/brochures/

Nicole Pinson is the urban horticulture agent in Hillsborough County. Contact her at or at 813-744-5519 X 54145.

Published January 06, 2021

Surprises in the garden, during COVID-19

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Although this year has been “unprecedented,” I have appreciated the extra time I’ve spent in my yard.

These cloudy-looking drops are insect eggs laid on the underside of a beautyberry leaf. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson, UF/IFAS)

With a less-crowded calendar, fewer people to visit, and a safer-at-home approach, the garden has provided a welcome respite, and a place for learning.

I suppose many of you are in this situation, too.

Allow me to encourage you to enjoy your garden. And, if you don’t have a garden, consider planting a few flowers or container plants — to give you something to grow and take care of over time.

Over time, the eggs turned orange, with a red stripe along the top.

Wander.

Look around.

Notice what’s normal.

Notice what’s not normal.

Scout for things.

Touch plants.

Flip leaves.

This summer, I noticed these two small eggs on my beautyberry bush. The eggs caught my eye because I had not seen them before. They looked like small, triangular drops of cloudy glue. I knew beautyberry, being a Florida native plant, was virtually pest and disease free. I was curious about what laid these eggs and what they would turn out to be.

Leaf-footed bugs are considered plant pests rather than beneficial insects.

Every day, I looked for these eggs. My intention was to monitor them to learn what they would become. As a butterfly gardener, I have watched insects grow and develop. I knew the eggs would likely change color as they matured. I also knew something might eat them the longer they stayed on the leaves.

I made a plan to watch the eggs, and when they began to change color, I would pick off the entire leaf with the eggs and place them in a glass container, like a pickle jar or a food storage container.

The container would protect the eggs from predators, and give me a close-up view of the metamorphosis.

The eggs started off as cloudy-like drops of glue. I began to notice other insects that flew around the plant. I took pictures of them, too, looking for more clues.

Then, about five days later, the eggs changed color. They went from a cloudy whitish color to a reddish-orange color, with a stripe along the top. They looked like a completely different egg.

A few days later, the eggs hatched. To my surprise, two red leaf-footed bugs emerged, quickly moving around – almost like robots or aliens.

Insects look very different at different stages of their life cycle. In Extension, we talk about integrated pest management or IPM. This involves properly identifying the pest or problem before taking action, using best practices, such as correct amount of irrigation and fertilizer to prevent problems; not taking action if it’s unnecessary; and, matching the control to the problem or pest.

I was disappointed these weren’t beneficial bugs, as leaf-footed bugs are considered garden pests. I placed them back into the garden near my bird feeder.

But, this was an interesting project, because I learned so much.

First, I was eventually able to ID the eggs and the bugs. Second, I noted how long the process took (about a week and half). Third, I have photos to share with others. For example, one website that I reference often, BugGuide.net, does not have pictures of the eggs from the beginning stage.

Had it not been for COVID-19, I would not have had this experience. And, this experience reminds me of a quote, attributed to Dorothy Parker (but some disagree that this is her quote): “The cure for boredom is curiosity. There is no cure for curiosity.”

May you be curious gardeners.

For more information, please visit these links:

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/topic_leaffooted_bugs

https://bugguide.net/node/view/114143

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/IN/IN10900.pdf

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County. Contact Nicole at or at (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Published December 02, 2020

Gardening during COVID-19: Sanitize your tools

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We all know to wash our hands for 20 seconds, cough into our elbows and practice 6-foot physical distancing.

Use common recipes, recommended by the University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (UF/IFAS) to sanitize tools. Soak them for 5 minutes to 10 minutes. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson, UF/IFAS)

But, with all the sanitizing of hands and homes, did you know it’s also important to sanitize your garden tools?

Diseases may be spread from plant to plant by pruning tools, such as hand saws, pruners and loppers. This is especially true for palms.

Fusarium wilt and thielaviopsis trunk rot of palm are two examples of palm diseases that may be transmitted by pruning tools. Fusarium wilt and thielaviopis rot are both lethal palm diseases. It can be costly to remove or replant a specimen palm.

Canary Island date, queen, Mexican fan and coconut palms are the most susceptible. If you have any of these in your landscape, be extra careful about pruning and sanitizing your tools.

If you use a landscape maintenance company, talk with them to make sure they sanitize pruning tools between properties and before pruning these types of palms in your landscape.

Common recipes for sanitizing tools:

  • Pine Sol®: 25% Pine Sol® and 75% water
  • Bleach: 25% bleach and 75% water
  • Rubbing alcohol: 50% rubbing alcohol and 50% water (Must be 70% isopropyl alcohol)
  • Denatured ethanol: 50% denatured ethanol and 50% water (Must be 95% denatured alcohol)

The most important thing to remember: Soak the tools for 5 minutes to 10 minutes. Dipping them into a sanitizing solution will not sanitize them. They must soak for the solution to work.

Also, be sure to replace the solution every two hours, or after 10 palms.

And, be sure to rinse the tool with fresh water after soaking it.

In general, palms rarely need to be pruned. When pruning, only remove dead or dangerous fronds.

Too much pruning may attract pests, such as palmetto weevils. Too much pruning can make nutrient deficiencies worse. It may also stress the palm, which makes it less able to withstand disease.

Take good care of your palms by not over-pruning them. Don’t “hurricane” prune or trim them into pineapple shapes.

 

If you have gardening questions during COVID-19, contact your local Extension office’s virtual help desk. Find an Extension office at this link: https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/find-your-local-office/

For additional information, email , or call (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

To learn more about palms, please check the references used for this column:

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published August 05, 2020

Gifts for the garden

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Wondering what to give the gardener in your life?

Here are few ideas that may be helpful to you.

Most gardeners have pruners they carry with them as they work in the garden. But, how often do they sharpen their pruners? You don’t need to take them anywhere or pay to get them sharpened – they are very easy to sharpen yourself.

A garden cart or wheelbarrow makes garden chores easier. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

For less than $25, you can buy your gardening friend a standard, pocket-sized sharpener, such as this Swiss Istor sharpener. It is lightweight, compact and easy-to-use. Carry it your pocket, apron or toolkit, so it’s ready to sharpen pruners on the go.

If you’re in the market for a planter, you might consider repurposing a cattle trough or stock tank. I’ve seen a lot of restaurants and shops doing that.

These troughs are sturdy, attractive and can be purchased in different sizes. They make it easy to reach plants without bending over, if you buy one that’s a few feet tall.

The sky is the limit regarding the types of plants and combinations a gardener may create in these containers. I have a stock tank on my list this year. It’s 49 gallons and measures 48 inches by 24 inches by 12 inches.

My plan is to stuff it with trellised vegetables, lettuces, herbs and edible flowers. As a bonus, the edible flowers will attract pollinators to the raised bed garden, which helps with pest control and fruit production.

Another great garden gift is a wheelbarrow or a garden cart to make it easier to move mulch, clippings, soil and debris around the garden — which can be a backbreaking chore.

Many gifts – such as plants, gift cards to local nurseries and pollinator-friendly garden signs – are a welcome addition to gardens.

Carts and wheelbarrows are versatile and useful in gardens large or small.

Houseplants also make a great gift.

Many people – including younger gardeners – are drawn to houseplants because they look attractive, can be easy to care for and help improve indoor air quality. I prefer a few large pots with lush, sturdy plants. But, moving these pots – for example, sweeping around them, moving them according to seasonal light changes, or taking them outside for a long soak and to rinse the leaves – can be cumbersome.

Rolling plant caddies can make that job much easier.

You can get planter pot movers for less than $25. Pick plant caddies in a standard color, such as dark brown or black, so they blend in with most pots.

Do you need some inspiration about houseplants? Check websites, social media pages and your local library for “houseplant groups,” “houseplant décor” or “houseplants.”

Bird feeders are great gifts, too. Wrap the bird feeder along with a good bird seed mix so the recipient can hang the feeder immediately. The birds will thank you, too.

Here’s an idea I picked up in Arizona a few years ago, when I visited a beautiful garden in the desert.

They hung prisms from shrubs and small trees, which reflected sunlight and made little rainbows around the garden, adding to the garden’s charm.

Backyard bird feeders and birdbaths make a nice gift for any gardener or wildlife enthusiast.

Prisms and other suncatchers make great gifts. Here’s a tip: If the prisms don’t come with a cord, be sure to include some heavy duty clear fishing line, or similar cord, to go along with your prism.

Of course, seasonal plants are a nice gift idea, too.

A pot of amaryllis or paperwhites bring holiday cheer to any room. They are easy to grow for any skill level. Many local nurseries and box stores carry these during the holidays. They make a nice addition to holiday décor, whether at home or at the office. As a bonus, amaryllis may be planted outside after blooming.

Garden books, flowerpots, pot clips, pot feet, macramé plant holders (yes, macramé is in style) and hose guards are all nice gifts. Garden signs that show your gardening friend’s appreciation for pollinators, birds and bees are a nice touch, too, especially if placed near a sidewalk or in a school or community garden plot.

When the garden is all spruced up, weeded and mulched (when is that ever done?!), sit back and relax with a cold drink. Place universal beverage/drink holder stakes around the garden and near patio areas and tables to encourage sitting for a moment and enjoying the garden on your own, or with pets, friends and family.

Of course, you can never go wrong with a gift card. Chances are the gardener in your life can always use one more plant! Gift cards to local nurseries help support local businesses and can give your recipient the option of all kinds of garden gifts, whether it’s a new plant, seeds, a tool, garden ornament or soil.

For additional information, contact or (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published December 18, 2019

Natural ‘enemies’ can attack garden pests

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Summer months may stress plants because we often see periods of increased rainfall and then periods of drought along with intense heat.

And, when plants are stressed, they may be more susceptible to pests.

When it comes to combating these pests, don’t forget there are many natural enemies that eat pest insects.

Aphids are the favorite food source of the adult convergent ladybeetle, Hippodamia convergens. (Courtesy of James Castner and Lyle Buss, University of Florida/IFAS)

These natural enemies, that are considered good or beneficial, include lacewings, ladybeetles, assassin bugs, spiders, hover flies, dragonflies and mantids.

Some commercial companies raise these natural enemies and ship them to gardeners who then release the insects for pest control.

Prior to purchasing natural enemies, identify the pest insect or mite. This will help you match the appropriate control with the pest.

If you need help identifying the pest, reach out to your local county Extension Office.

Natural enemies that are available from commercial companies may include predatory mites, predatory insects and parasitic wasps.

Ladybeetles (also known as ladybugs) are one of the most common beneficial insects purchased for home gardens. There are many different kinds, or species, of ladybeetles. Some eat specific pests such as aphids or whiteflies, which is why it is important to identify the pest so you know what beneficial insects to purchase or to encourage in your garden.

These beetles help home gardeners – and farmers – because they are phytophagous, which means they eat plant pests that feed on ornamental plants and crops, such as cabbage, corn, melons, peaches and potatoes. Some ladybeetles also attack the Asian citrus psyllid. It is this psyllid that transmits the bacterium that causes the citrus greening disease.

Ladybeetles undergo a complete metamorphosis, starting off as a tiny yellow or orange egg. They look very different as they go through their life cycle (egg, larva, pupa, adult).

However, many ladybeetles are field collected from natural areas where they aggregate (form large groups) and overwinter. They may carry parasites or pathogens. If they are collected when they are reproductively immature, they may be less effective as a biological control.

Adult ladybeetles will often fly away when released. Because of these reasons, it may be better to encourage ladybeetles through your gardening practices rather than purchasing adult ladybeetles.

Did you know that the larval form of the ladybeetle is a more voracious pest-eater than the adult form?

Ladybeetle larvae (some people say they look like small alligators) eat aphids, leafhoppers, mites, mealybugs, scales, thrips, whiteflies and some other insects, such as pest beetles, caterpillars and lacebugs.

There is a variety of colors and patterns among the larvae of various ladybeetle species.

The life cycle of the ladybeetle reminds us that insects may look very different as they grow and develop through their different stages. Because the larvae can look very different from the adults, knowing how to recognize insects can help you figure distinguish between the good insects from the pests.

Of the many different ladybeetles, some prey on specific plant pests. Delphastus catalinae eats whiteflies. Cryptolaemus montrouzieri, also known as the mealybug destroyer (my favorite) eats mealybugs. Hippodamia convergens larvae can eat between 30 and 50 aphids per day.

If you purchase adult ladybeetles, be sure to match the ladybeetle species that will eat the pest you’ve identified in your garden. Purchase ladybeetle larvae when possible, and buy from reputable companies that sell ladybeetles that are parasite- and disease-free. Check the Association of Natural Biocontrol Producers (ANBP) website for a list of companies.

There is a variety of colors and patterns among the larvae of various ladybeetle species.

Interestingly, the UF/IFAS Extension Entomology and Nematology department explains that ladybeetles are pollinators, and they will also feed on pollen, honeydew and nectar from flowers, when prey is scarce. But, in order to reproduce, they need to eat live prey.

You can encourage ladybeetles – and other beneficial insects – without having to buy them.

To attract the good bugs to your garden:

  • Plant a variety of flowers that bloom at different times of the year and that have different colors and flower shapes
  • Provide a refuge for insects by reducing or eliminating pesticide use.

Alternatively, soft pesticides, such as insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, spinosad and Bacillus thuringiensis (also known as Bt), may be used for many pests

The soft pesticides pose less risk to non-target organisms, such as beneficials and pollinators. Consider native plants that may attract specialized pollinators. Plants that contain structures called extrafloral nectaries are especially attractive to beneficial insects.

If you’d like more information about this, consult these sources, which were used in this column:

For additional information, email or call (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published July 24, 2019

Pointers for easy pest control in your garden

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Spring gardening is upon us, a time when many Florida gardeners plant vegetables, trees and landscape shrubs. If we have turf, we pay attention to bare spots, patches and insects.

As your plants and turf grow, be on the lookout for pests and problems. Try to notice issues early and get help from your local Extension office, if needed.

Consider using less toxic pest control methods and products around edible crops. (Nicole Pinson)

Some of the easiest and least expensive strategies for mitigating pest and disease problems include:
• Choose the right plant for the right place

  • Select plants for site conditions and pest resistance
  • Plant a diverse garden
  • Use mulch
  • Pull weeds
  • Sanitize tools, when needed
  • Encourage natural enemies (good bugs that prey on pest bugs)

Of course, there are recommendations for pest and weed control, both online and through word-of-mouth.

Some are anecdotal; others are research-based.

Research-based recommendations have been tested in Florida and these recommendations promote using products according to the label. For example, although moth balls are a registered pesticide with the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), their use in the landscape to control pests and nuisance wildlife is prohibited. It is against the law when moth balls are used in this way.

When using chemical products, start with the least toxic methods. These products generally cause less harm to non-target insects and animals, and some may be used in organic gardening.

These are some least toxic products and the pests they control:

  • Neem oil for soft-bodied insects, such as aphids, scales and whiteflies, cucumber beetles, caterpillars and spider mites
  • Neem extracts with azadirachtin for caterpillars, flea beetles, weevils, aphids and leafhoppers
  • Spinosad for fire ants, thrips, sawflies, caterpillars (such as armyworms, bean leafroller, cabbage looper, corn earworm/fruitworm, diamondback moth and pickleworm), flies, beetles, spider mites and thrips
  • Bt-k (Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki) for caterpillars, such as armyworms, bean leafroller, cabbage looper, corn earworm/fruitworm, fall webworm, loopers, bagworms, hornworms and squash vine borer
  • Bt (other Bacillus thuringiensis varieties) for fly larvae (mosquitoes, fungus gnats), wax moth larvae and some beetles
  • Horticultural oil (petroleum-based) for soft-bodied insects and mites, including scales, aphids, spider mites, mealybugs and whiteflies
  • Insecticidal soap (potassium salts of fatty acid) for soft-bodied insects and mites, including soft scales, aphids, mealybugs and whiteflies
  • Diatomaceous earth (silica shells of diatoms) for ants, fleas, bed bugs, cockroaches, millipedes, sowbugs, and other small, soft-bodied insects

Plant a diverse garden to control pests and disease. Take a proactive, less toxic pest control approach.

Spring is a great time to be on the lookout for pests and problems.

If you are looking for where to purchase beneficial organisms, also known as “natural enemies,” check this publication: “Guidelines for Purchasing and Using Commercial Natural Enemies and Biopesticides in North America,” by Lynn M. LeBeck and Norman C. Leppla. Specifically, check Tables 1 and 2, for suppliers.

Consider adding plants that attract pollinators and beneficial insects. Some of these plants also have extrafloral nectaries, which are nectar-producing glands found in some plant families, that are separate from the flower. Passionvines are one type of plant with these extrafloral nectaries.

To find out more, check out these IFAS publications: “Natural Products for Managing Landscape and Garden Pests in Florida,” and “Organic Vegetable Gardening in Florida.”

For additional information, contact or (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published June 05, 2019

Spring is the time to plant cheerful flowers

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Florida has a long warm season and a shorter cool season.

We are now in our cooler months, which is a time to plant cool season annuals.

An annual is a plant that completes its life cycle in one season. These annuals offer bright color choices. They are plants such as pansies and petunias that might remind us of “up North.”

Colorful annuals may attract pollinators and make great indoor arrangements. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

You can plant many annual, spring flowers January through April.

You may also want to mix spring flowers into your existing containers and landscape beds. When planting flowers in containers, choose pots that are large enough for the plants. Pots that are too small may dry out quickly, which requires more frequent watering. Flower pots that are too small may also stress plants by causing them to repeatedly wilt and bounce back.

Spring flowers planted in clumps or masses will look more dramatic than flowers planted in small groups or individually.

Be sure to find out if your spring flowers prefer full sun or part shade. For example, most wax begonias would prefer some relief from afternoon sun and grow best in a part-shade environment.

Have you ever wondered what a snapdragon tastes like? Consider planting a few edible spring flowers. Edible flowers add a nice touch when used as a garnish to soups, salads and other dishes. It’s fun to eat flowers with kids, and edible flowers can help them appreciate the garden.

Easy to try edible spring flowers include dianthus, pansies, Johnny jump-ups, and snapdragons. Do not eat flowers that have been treated with pesticides.

Some annual plants perform double-duty. Not only are they beautiful flowers, but they also provide nectar and pollen for pollinators. If you’d like to plant spring flowers to attract pollinators, try ageratum, dahlberg daisies, melampodium and zinnias.

Snapdragons and dianthus are both edible spring flowers.

Most spring flowers require little care. If you compost or amend your soil with organic matter, mix that in before you plant your flowers. You can apply a slow-release fertilizer, add a 2-inch to 3-inch layer of mulch around the base of plants to conserve water, and water when needed. Watering with a handheld wand or micro-irrigation may reduce damage to flowers that can be caused by overhead irrigation.

Perform routine pinching or “deadheading” to remove spent flowers and encourage the formation of new flower buds.

To deadhead flowers:

  • Look for blooms or flower clusters that are past their prime and have already bloomed.
  • Cut these back to a node with hand pruners or floral scissors (A node is a place on the plant stem where leaves develop).
  • Make a cut just above the node and compost the spent flower stems.

This practice helps plants stay healthy, invest their energy into producing more flowers and keeps them from getting leggy.

As you deadhead your flowers, learn whether or not these old flower stalks contain seeds.

The seeds of some flowers may be planted easily in the garden, or in small pots, to provide you with more plants and more color.

Scout or check your garden for pests regularly. Many pests that affect spring flowers, such as aphids and mealybugs, may be treated with less toxic products, such as insecticidal soaps and horticultural oils. These products are available at local garden centers and nurseries.

Protect your plants during frosts by covering them with frost fabric, a sheet or blanket, or a cardboard box.

Petunias are cool season annuals that may be grown in the landscape, flower pots, or hanging baskets. Some petunias are fragrant and smell lovely during the evening.

Don’t forget to enjoy your flowers indoors. Examples of spring flowers that make great indoor flower arrangements include snapdragons, dianthus, cosmos, delphinium and gomphrena. Use them, along with your garden greenery (palm leaves, fern fronds, shrub branches), to make inexpensive bouquets.

Share photos of your spring flower garden on our Florida-Friendly LandscapingTM  Facebook page.

Sources for this column included these IFAS publications, “Natural Products for Managing Landscape and Garden Pests in Florida” and “Gardening with Annuals in Florida.”

For additional information, or sources of information on this topic, contact or (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published January 30, 2019

Keep your lawn healthy during winter and fall

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As we move into fall and winter, there are some things you can do to keep your lawn looking good.

First things first: Identify the type of grass you have in your lawn.

Next, read the appropriate University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (UF/IFAS) publication for your type of turfgrass.

Follow UF/IFAS turfgrass recommendations with regard to mowing, watering, fertilizing and pest control. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

For example, Central Florida has St. Augustinegrass (the most common lawn in Florida), bahiagrass, zoysiagrass and Bermudagrass.

One resource that can prove very helpful is a free online library at the University of Florida called EDIS, which stands for “Electronic Data Information Source.” (The EDIS website is http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/).

After you know what type of turf you have, be sure to keep track of how much water your lawn gets by rain and irrigation. An inexpensive rain gauge is a good tool to measure rainfall.

During cool, winter months, many people skip a week of watering. Calibrate your sprinklers to make sure you deliver ½-inch to ¾-inch of water per irrigation event. If your sprinklers (or rainfall) provide that amount of water a few times per week, irrigation or rainfall is enough.

You’ll also need to check your fertilizer applications. Remember, Florida turfgrasses are warm-season grasses. They all go dormant during winter, which results in slower growth, and less needed inputs of water and fertilizer.

Lawns may turn brown or appear off-color, but resist the urge to fertilize your lawn in winter.

Winter fertilizer applications can damage lawns, especially zoysiagrass lawns, which have a very slow spring “green-up” period. Zoysiagrass prefers to be “spoon-fed” fertilizer. A winter fertilizer application on zoysiagrass can cause unhealthy turf the following year.

There’s a chart available through the University of Florida that provides general fertilizer recommendations for different turfgrasses. It also provides guidance on when to apply a complete fertilizer, slow-release fertilizer and other nutrients, if needed.

Look for the Central Florida section, then find your type of turfgrass.

The chart also provides recommendations for basic, moderate and high maintenance levels.

Turfgrasses which are under the “basic” or “moderate” schedule for Central Florida have no fertilizer applications during December, January and February, according to the chart.

It’s also important to keep in mind that many of our Florida soils are high in phosphorous (P) (we mine phosphorous locally). Therefore, you should not apply phosphorous unless you have a soil test report showing a P-deficiency. This happens occasionally, but since most of our soils have sufficient P, adding more in the form of fertilizer will not produce a crop or plant response because there is enough available. However, adding more P than needed can result in increased nutrient runoff and leaching, which affects our water bodies, groundwater and springs.

How do you avoid fertilizer that has P? When you shop, look for products with zero or very low phosphorous. These products are becoming increasingly available because of summer fertilizer ordinances and because people understand the potential for pollution if used when they’re not needed.

It’s also good to know that proper mowing height is one of the main things you can do to promote a healthy lawn.

Regular cultivars of St. Augustinegrass should be mowed at 3 inches to 4 inches; most dwarf cultivars of St. Augustinegrass should be mowed at 2.5 inches; bahiagrass should be mowed at 3 inches to 4 inches; zoysiagrass at 2 inches to 2.5 inches; and Bermudagrass at 0.5 inches to 1.5 inches.

In shady areas, consider replacing sod with an appropriate groundcover and mulch. Turfgrass needs at least six hours of sunlight daily, so if an area isn’t receiving that much, the lawn there will likely never thrive. A groundcover may be a better choice.

If weeds are an issue, find out if they are broadleaf, sedge or grassy weeds.

Make a note on your calendar and plan to use a preemergence herbicide around Feb. 15 in Central Florida to stop weed seeds from germinating and to reduce weed pressure next year.

A soil fertility test can tell you if your lawn is low in potassium. We’re learning a lot about potassium, including the fact that it contributes to healthy plants and turfgrass, and that it helps with disease resistance. When buying fertilizer, make sure the nitrogen (N) to potassium (K) is balanced with a 1:1 or 2:1 ratio.

Each fall, I over-seed my lawn with annual ryegrass. Ryegrass keeps weeds down during winter months and provides beautiful “Easter” grass color until it begins to warm up around April the following year.  You can put ryegrass down in months that end in “R,” but I generally try to seed ryegrass in September/October to enjoy the bright, green color for months.

For additional information, contact or (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Sources for this column included “Mowing Your Florida Lawn” by L.E. Trenholm, J.B. Unruh and J.L. Cisar; and, Weed Management Guide for Florida Lawns by J.B. Unruh, R.G. Leon, B.J. Brecke and L.E. Trenholm.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published December 5, 2018

Gearing up for fall lawn care

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As we move into fall, it’s time to review our lawn care strategies.

It’s important to be proactive with lawn care, and not rely solely on fungicides or insecticides.

If your lawn is regularly under stress from lack of water, poor fertilization, excessive traffic, insect damage, or injurious mowing techniques, it will be more susceptible to diseases and pests.

Earwigs are considered beneficial because they feed on chinch bugs, mole crickets and other insects in the soil. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

It’s important to be on the lookout for problems, because it is easier to identify and solve pest and disease issues when they are noticed early.

For example, large patch is a fungal disease that occurs when temperatures cool, typically from November to May.

Large patch primarily affects St. Augustinegrass and zoysiagrass lawns.

Unfortunately, many disease problems aren’t noticed until the roots are destroyed, and the above-ground leaves appear yellow or brown.

Sometimes, homeowners see these symptoms, and respond with additional water and/or fertilizer.  Unfortunately, if the problem is fungal, water and fertilizer can worsen the situation.

Once fungus has damaged a plant, that portion of the plant cannot “heal.”

Fungicides help stop the disease from spreading to healthy plant tissue. Homeowner-approved fungicides may be applied, but they do not repair dead or dying turf.

If you spot and treat disease early, turf damage may be minimal, and you should see improved growth in the healthier areas of the lawn. But, if you wait too long, the disease may progress quickly, killing grass and resulting in costly treatment and sod replacement.

What should you do if you see a problem?
Bring a sample of your turf to your local county Extension office. A good sample size is a square-foot of grass. Select your sample from an area that is on the border between healthy grass and the discolored or unhealthy-looking grass.

Chinch bug adults are only about 5 mm (0.2-inch) long. Properly identifying the cause or problem is important because you want to treat appropriately.

This type of sample shows a progression of symptoms, and helps Extension staff and master gardener volunteers to determine what issue is affecting your lawn.

Use a shovel to dig up this piece of sod, including the roots. Then, place the sample on newspaper or in a cardboard box and bring it to your local Extension office.  (You may place the sample back in the yard when you return home.)

Another option is to send a sample directly to the University of Florida lab. The lab will determine if a pathogen is present on the turf and has a quick turnaround time with a preliminary diagnosis provided within 24 hours to 48 hours.

A Rapid Turfgrass Diagnosis costs $75 per sample, and you will receive a report with recommendations. For more information about this, go to this link: turf.ufl.edu/rapiddiag_general.shtml.

Insects that may be present include fall armyworms, chinch bugs, mole crickets and sod webworms.  Check the free, UF/IFAS online library, called “EDIS,” for more information on each of these pests, and other gardening and home topics.  EDIS stands for Electronic Data Information Source, and the website is edis.ifas.ufl.edu.

If you don’t know if you have an insect or disease problem, rule out the insects first.

Do a soap flush
When you notice signs of damage, do a soap flush. Besides being simple, sometimes people discover they have beneficial insects in their yards. For instance, earwigs and big-eyed bugs eat chinch bugs.

To perform a soap flush, you’ll need:

  • Liquid dishwashing soap. Some publications suggest that lemon-scented works best (Note: Don’t use a degreaser)
  • A watering can or bucket
  • A container or zip-top bag to collect insects for ID

Here’s what you do:

  • Look for an area that shows a progression of symptoms, such as an area with signs of damage and no damage.
  • Use a watering can to mix 2 Tablespoons of liquid dishwashing soap with 2 gallons of water.
  • Apply the soap mixture to a 2 foot-by-2 foot area of grass.
  • Wait 2 minutes to 3 minutes. Insects will begin to appear as they move to the soil surface.
  • Flush late in the afternoon or early morning for best results.
  • Check for different stages of an insect’s life cycle, such as adults and caterpillars.
  • Collect samples. Bring to the Extension office for assistance, identification and control recommendations.
  • Repeat the process in several areas of the yard to get a good sample of insects present.

If you need help identifying an insect, check with your local county Extension office.

For additional information, check out these IFAS publications: “Insect Pest Management on Turfgrass” by E. Buss and A. Dale (2017) and “Turfgrass Disease Management” by M.L. Elliott and P.F. Harmon (2018). Both of these publications were used as sources of information for this column.

For additional information, contact p, or call (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

By Nicole Pinson
Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published October 3, 2018

Ways to water wisely during summer months

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Water is essential — not only for life itself, but also to support Florida’s landscapes, recreational activities and beautiful vistas.

Residents and tourists enjoy our waterways and participate in recreational activities such as fishing, swimming and boating.

Water is essential to our life in Florida. We can have beautiful landscapes and conserve water at the same time. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

We use water from public municipalities and private wells for household, industrial and agricultural uses.

Water also is necessary for wildlife, our environment and our quality of life. However, more than 50 percent of the water we consume at home is used to irrigate lawns and landscapes.

Dr. Laura Warner, from the University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, put it like this: “A message for residents is that we can have beautiful landscapes that increase the value of our homes, provide habitat for pollinators and animals, (provide) a place to socialize with friends and family – and we can do all that while saving water.”

Follow these steps to keep lawns and landscapes healthy, while conserving water at the same time:

  • Water your landscape during the coolest part of the day, or in the evening, to reduce water loss through evaporation. Watering in the morning coincides closely with the dew point and reduces the window of time water stays on plant leaves.
  • Calibrate your irrigation system to deliver 1/2-inch water to 3/4-inch water per irrigation event. Overwatering lawns harms long-term turf health. Overwatering greatly increases disease susceptibility and thatch buildup, and also leads to a shorter root system, which reduces the turf’s overall stress tolerance and ability to survive with less water. It also promotes the growth of certain weed species, such as dollarweed and sedges.
  • If you have a rain gauge, and it indicates your yard has received equal or greater 1/2-inch water to 3/4-inch of water, you don’t need to provide additional water through irrigation. Shut off or adjust your irrigation system when you get plenty of rain. The simple practice of checking an inexpensive rain gauge to track rainfall, and then adjusting your irrigation system, can save gallons of water, can keep your lawn and landscape healthy, and can reduce disease potential from fungus and other problems.
  • Check your irrigation system seasonally to calibrate the system. Repair or replace broken sprinkler heads, and ensure valves open and close properly.
  • Plan your irrigation based on plant needs and zones. For example, turfgrass requires more irrigation than landscape beds with established trees. Turfgrass growing in the shade requires less water than turfgrass growing in full sun. Adjust areas like these to save water and to keep plants healthy. Homes that average 35 percent turf and 65 percent landscape beds use 39 percent less water when compared to homes with more turf and fewer landscape beds. The potential savings is 1,440 gallons to 1,800 gallons of water per week based on watering your landscape twice a week.
  • Apply a layer of mulch that is 2-inches to 3-inches thick in your landscape beds and vegetable gardens using pine straw, pine nuggets or melaleuca mulch. Mulch provides many benefits. It conserves soil moisture, keeps plant roots cool, adds organic matter to the soil and improves soil texture as it breaks down over time. Reduce splashing water, as it can move disease-causing fungal spores to plant leaves. A layer of mulch at the base of landscape plants reduces splashing water from sprinkler systems and rain.
  • Choose drought-tolerant plants. Consult the Florida-Friendly Landscaping Guide to Plant Selection and Landscape Design for ideas.
  • Be aware that container plants that dry out quickly benefit from micro-irrigation systems. There are patio micro-irrigation kits that direct water to each pot and at the base of plants.
  • When it rains, water collects and moves quickly across gutters, driveways and other nonpervious surfaces. A benefit of pervious surfaces is they allow rainwater to percolate down into the soil and recharge the aquifer. Reduce the volume of rainwater that contributes to stormwater runoff by installing rain barrels and using pervious surfaces such as mulched paths in your landscape.
  • If you have an irrigation system, install a rain shutoff device.
  • Let your lawn tell you when to water. Look for folded grass blades, footprints or tire tracks that remain on the grass, and a bluish tint to the grass. The University of Florida/IFAS recommends delivering 1/2-inch water to 3/4-inch of water to your lawn and landscape per irrigation event, which provides enough water to reach the root zone.
  • Follow water restrictions and guidelines set forth by your county or city municipality and the Southwest Florida Water Management District.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published August 1, 2018