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Serving Pasco since 1981/Serving Lutz since 1964

Nature Notes

Gardening during COVID-19: Sanitize your tools

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We all know to wash our hands for 20 seconds, cough into our elbows and practice 6-foot physical distancing.

Use common recipes, recommended by the University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (UF/IFAS) to sanitize tools. Soak them for 5 minutes to 10 minutes. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson, UF/IFAS)

But, with all the sanitizing of hands and homes, did you know it’s also important to sanitize your garden tools?

Diseases may be spread from plant to plant by pruning tools, such as hand saws, pruners and loppers. This is especially true for palms.

Fusarium wilt and thielaviopsis trunk rot of palm are two examples of palm diseases that may be transmitted by pruning tools. Fusarium wilt and thielaviopis rot are both lethal palm diseases. It can be costly to remove or replant a specimen palm.

Canary Island date, queen, Mexican fan and coconut palms are the most susceptible. If you have any of these in your landscape, be extra careful about pruning and sanitizing your tools.

If you use a landscape maintenance company, talk with them to make sure they sanitize pruning tools between properties and before pruning these types of palms in your landscape.

Common recipes for sanitizing tools:

  • Pine Sol®: 25% Pine Sol® and 75% water
  • Bleach: 25% bleach and 75% water
  • Rubbing alcohol: 50% rubbing alcohol and 50% water (Must be 70% isopropyl alcohol)
  • Denatured ethanol: 50% denatured ethanol and 50% water (Must be 95% denatured alcohol)

The most important thing to remember: Soak the tools for 5 minutes to 10 minutes. Dipping them into a sanitizing solution will not sanitize them. They must soak for the solution to work.

Also, be sure to replace the solution every two hours, or after 10 palms.

And, be sure to rinse the tool with fresh water after soaking it.

In general, palms rarely need to be pruned. When pruning, only remove dead or dangerous fronds.

Too much pruning may attract pests, such as palmetto weevils. Too much pruning can make nutrient deficiencies worse. It may also stress the palm, which makes it less able to withstand disease.

Take good care of your palms by not over-pruning them. Don’t “hurricane” prune or trim them into pineapple shapes.

 

If you have gardening questions during COVID-19, contact your local Extension office’s virtual help desk. Find an Extension office at this link: https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/find-your-local-office/

For additional information, email , or call (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

To learn more about palms, please check the references used for this column:

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published August 05, 2020

Beware of hidden dangers to pets in your landscape

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As a dog lover (well, an animal lover in general), I spend a lot of time keeping an eye on my treasured pets.

I make sure they are eating a healthy diet, drinking plenty of fresh water and have comfy beds for sleeping.

I’m also vigilant about keeping them away from getting into anything dangerous, such as cleaning supplies, fertilizers and medications.

Oleander flowers. UF/IFAS Photo by Tom Wright.

Whether they’re inside or outside, pet owners must be responsible for keeping their pets safe.

That’s a duty that I take seriously.

Pet owners typically are aware that chocolate, grapes, onions and caffeine are poisonous to pets.

But, other dangers aren’t always so obvious.

Those hazards include poisonous plants and common landscape items that can become hazardous.

Many would agree that mulch is an excellent addition to the landscape. It locks in moisture, prevents weeds and adds curb appeal. However, be sure to keep your pets, especially the younger ones, away from it.

Mulches generally are woody and sharp, and when a pet chews on mulch, there’s a risk of pieces lodging in the throat or the intestines. That’s always serious and sometimes can be fatal.

So, when puppies are out exploring your yard, be sure to keep a close eye on them and offer them lots of pet toys to keep their interest.

Watch out for small rocks and sticks, too. They also pose choking dangers and can cause puncture wounds, and blockages.

But, the biggest risk comes from common landscaping plants because many, while beautiful, are poisonous.

Of course, just because a plant has toxic properties, it doesn’t mean it can’t or shouldn’t be used in a landscape.

Plants play various roles in the landscape. Sometimes they are pollinators. They also provide food or homes for wildlife. Plus, they are important aesthetic features that can boost the value of property.

Lantana is a sturdy and pretty plant, but it also contains toxins that can be harmful to pets. (Courtesy of UF/IFAS)

So, with all those benefits, just remember to be mindful of what you are planting in your landscape, and be sure to take precautions to keep your pets and children away from potential dangers.

To help you stay safe, here are some things to remember about some popular landscape plants.

Milkweed, a favorite among gardeners, exudes a milky sap. Besides causing irritation, the sap can be toxic if consumed.

If you have this plant in your landscape, be sure to keep your pets way from it.

Also, be sure to prevent your pet from straying onto someone else’s property because there may be plants there that could pose harm.

Lantana is another fan favorite. This plant is tough as nails and pretty, too, and is frequented by bees and butterflies. It is also easy to grow and adds nice color to the landscape.

But, it also has its downsides.

It is not recommended in Florida because it is quite invasive and once established, is hard to control.

The name of this plant, angel’s trumpet, belies the dangers it poses. All parts of this plant are poisonous. (Mary Rathman)

Plus, it is highly toxic to animals.

Angel’s trumpet is a beautiful plant with huge flowers, shaped like trumpets. The flowers — which can come in white, yellow, orange or peach — hang downward and have a delicate fragrance.

But, the name angel’s trumpet is a misnomer: All parts of this plant are poisonous.

Coral bean — a  favorite plant of hummingbirds and butterflies — has tall, red blooms. Those blooms give way to black seed pods, and when they are opened, they give way to shiny, red seeds.

The pretty seeds are enticing to pets and children, but are highly toxic.

If you have this plant, consider removing the seed pods before they split so the seeds aren’t distributed into the landscape.

Another beautiful plant, oleander, is fast-growing and requires little maintenance.

This gorgeous plant produces copious flowers of red, pink, coral, yellow or white combined with long, dark green leaves — making it a shrub showstopper.

At this point, you may have surmised, that every part of this plant is poisonous.

Chinaberry, a very common tree in Florida, grows quickly and tall, and has fragrant flowers.

But, it doesn’t live long, and is a messy tree with poisonous fruit and seeds.

This plant is aggressive and invasive, and not recommended in the landscape. Nicotiana, or flowering tobacco, is another home gardener favorite.

Use care not to let your dog play with small sticks because they can become a choking hazard. Also keep an eye on your pooch to keep him away from dangerous plants. (Courtesy of UF/IFAS)

Its green, purple, pink or white flowers are plentiful and it has a heavenly scent, especially at night, making it a great plant for moon gardens.

Since it does contain nicotine, it is another poisonous plant to keep away from pets.

Mistletoe, a popular traditional decoration around the holidays, is poisonous to pets.

It’s not good for trees, either. Found living on many trees in Florida, mistletoe is a parasite, robbing its host plant of nutrients and water. Large infestations of mistletoe can kill otherwise healthy and established trees over time.

It also spreads easily, so if you spot mistletoe, remove it from your landscape.

During summer months, yesterday-today-and-tomorrow blooms can grab your attention as they change color from purple or lavender to white within a day or two.

These plants can grow to be 8 feet tall to 10 feet tall, although there are some dwarf varieties available.

All parts of yesterday-today-and-tomorrow plants are poisonous. The berries are the most toxic.

When deciding what to add to your landscape, be sure to take the time to investigate new plants before planting them.

The first principle of Florida-Friendly Landscaping is to put the right plant in the right place.

This applies not only to mature height, width, sun or shade, but also with consideration to pets and the potential dangers that exist.

Also, after pruning poisonous plants, do not burn the branches. Burning them can release toxic compounds that can cause serious health risks, if inhaled.

Finally, keep in mind that just because a plant is poisonous, it doesn’t mean it must be banned from your landscape.

It just needs to be located in a place where it will be less accessible, or inviting, to pets and children.

If you would like to know about specific plant species and whether they are poisonous, or if you are unsure of a plant identification, be sure to reach out to your local University of Florida/IFAS Extension Office for information.

As the old adage goes, it’s better to be safe, than sorry.

For more information about plants that are poisonous to pets, visit tinyurl.com/ojasgpk.

By Whitney C. Elmore

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published May 27, 2020

Worried about your plants turning brown?

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Seeing some of your plants turn brown in the winter can be a bit concerning.

It’s good to know that it’s normal for many plants, such as turfgrasses, to go dormant and turn brown in the winter.

The plant is protecting itself during cold temperatures and lower light levels.

Vegetation that’s injured by the cold can turn brown, but resist the urge to cut it back or to add fertilizer to damaged plants. Wait until you’re sure that warm temperatures have returned before taking action to address weather damage. (University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences)

Typically, plants will recover once spring arrives.

However, hard freezes may injure or potentially kill some plants.

The best way to protect your plants from cold injury, or death, is to select plants for your landscape based on the USDA Hardiness Zone Map that outlines which plants are most likely to survive in a given zone (https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/).

Florida is a wonderful place to grow a wide variety of plants, but not all of them thrive in every part of the state. For instance, a Christmas palm does well in South Florida, but won’t survive the winters in Central Florida.

Also, just a few miles can mean a big difference in temperature variations between our coastal and inland locations.

A principle of Florida-Friendly Landscaping is to plant the right plant in the right place. Not only does that principle apply to location in the landscape; it also applies to your climate zone.

Even though cold damage can cause injury to many plants, don’t lose hope. There are a few considerations to keep in mind to help your plant recover from cold injury.

It’s helpful to know that soils that have frozen even slightly, like in a container, can lose a lot of moisture and cold-damaged plants still need water.

After a freeze, check the soil around injured plants to determine if they are dry or not. If dry, irrigate until the soil is moist, but not wet.

It is tempting to fertilize plants after injury to stimulate new growth, but it’s not a good idea to “tell” an already injured plant to expend energy to grow — especially when the risk of more damage from another freeze is possible.

Resist the urge. Don’t fertilize until later in the season after the plant has shown obvious signs of recovery and is actively growing. That typically happens in late spring or even as late as summer.

The principle of patience also applies to pruning.

Cold-damaged plants typically look terrible with brown and even black, dead tissue. But, pruning tells the plant to grow, so put down the pruners.

Extensive growth during recovery robs the plant of vital energy and nutrients, and leaves new, tender tissue vulnerable to more damage from cold weather. Once the threat of frost or freeze passes, it’s safe to remove dead plant tissue.

If your lawn happens to be the common St. Augustinegrass, and it suffers extensive cold damage — which typically only occurs when exposed to temperatures around 20 degrees Fahrenheit — it will most likely die. Bahiagrass will rebound when warmer weather returns. If the lawn turns brown and stays brown, and appears to rot away, you’ll want to re-sod or re-seed, depending on the turfgrass species, to reestablish the lawn.

Some cold-injured ornamental plants may take years to recover from the roots, such as hibiscus.

Cold protection is relatively simple though. For most ornamental plants in pots, simply move them into a protected area when temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit are predicted.

If the plant is not easily moved, a bed sheet or blanket makes a good cover. Just ensure the cover drapes all the way to the ground so that heat from the ground can be trapped under the cover protecting the plant. Place a rock or brick on the cover to anchor the cover, but don’t allow it to weigh down the plant and cause damage.

Additionally, if you can erect a simple scaffold for the blanket to rest on just above the foliage, there’s less chance of cold injury since frost that rests on the blanket that touches the foliage can still cause damage through heat loss.

Many homeowners “lollipop” the blanket around the trunk or base of the plant cutting off the flow of heat from the soil, so don’t make this major mistake.

Plastic sheeting can be used, in a pinch, but it must be removed before sunlight strikes the plant in the morning or you risk burning the plant underneath, which happens rather quickly.

There are some commercial frost clothes that also can help prevent cold injury, but they must be used in the same way mentioned above.

With any cover, remove it once the temperature is above freezing early in the morning to allow the light to reach the plant, reduce the chance of sun scald, and get more heat into the plant.

Cold damage is not always preventable, but it is possible for plants to recover with a little TLC. In most cases, the plant just needs to be left alone to recover on its own time.

For more information about reestablishing your lawn, go to: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/lh013. For more information on cold protection for ornamental plants, refer to: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/topic_landscapes_and_cold.

By Whitney C. Elmore

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published March 11, 2020

Protect your palms against disease

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Take a look at the photo of the Sylvester palm, submitted by a Hillsborough County resident.

This Sylvester palm tested positive for the phytoplasma that causes lethal bronzing disease. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson, University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences)

Does it look normal?

Do the leaves appear to have a nutrient or disease problem?

Many palm species are now listed as susceptible to the disease called lethal bronzing. Lethal Bronzing Disease was formerly known as Texas Phoenix Palm Decline.

When we first learned about Lethal Bronzing Disease, we knew beautiful (and often expensive) palms of the Phoenix species, such as Canary Island Date palms (Phoenix canariensis), Sylvester palms (Phoenix sylvestris) and pygmy date palms (Phoenix roebelenii), as well as our native cabbage palms (Sabal palmetto), were the top species affected by this disease.

But, recently, University of Florida/Institute of Agricultural and Sciences researchers updated the list of palms that may test positive for the disease. The expanded list includes Christmas palms (also known as Adonidia palms), Bismarck palms, coconut palms, Chinese fan palms and queen palms.

Hillsborough and Pasco counties are among several other Florida counties with confirmed cases of Lethal Bronzing Disease.

These types of palms are hosts for Lethal Bronzing Disease: Christmas, Bismarck, Pindo, Carpentaria, Coconut, Chinese Fan, Canary Island Date, Edible Date, Pygmy Date, Wild Date, Fiji Fan, Buccaneer, Mexican Palmetto, Cabbage, Queen and Chinese Windmill.

If you have one of these palms, it is important to keep an eye on it and check for disease symptoms. The disease is caused by a phytoplasma, a type of bacteria that doesn’t have a cell wall. The phytoplasma is transmitted to the sap of palms by insects, such as planthoppers, when the insects feed on the palms. The disease cannot be transmitted by pruning tools.

Symptoms of the disease include fruit drop; discoloration of the oldest (lowest) leaves; brown or dead flower clusters; the collapse of the spear leaf at the top of the palm (newest leaf); and, quick decline (usually about four months to five months).

To test for Lethal Bronzing Disease, submit a trunk sample for testing to the UF/IFAS Plant Diagnostic Center, and follow the palm trunk sampling instructions available at this link: https://plantpath.ifas.ufl.edu/misc/media/PDC/palmsampling.pdf.

The cost is $80 per sample. The lab will provide a report about whether the palm is diseased.

Queen palms have been listed recently as a host plant for lethal bronzing disease.

If you have susceptible palms without symptoms of the disease, you may inoculate them preventatively with an antibiotic called oxytetracycline. This may be done by a professional landscape company or by an arborist. Homeowners may choose to inoculate their own palms, and there are instructions available and companies online that sell the antibiotics to homeowners.

But, antibiotic injections are not a one-time cure-all. They must be injected into healthy palms every three months to four months, which may be a significant investment of time and money, over several years, for some homeowners.

If the disease is confirmed, removal is recommended. You don’t want the disease to spread to other palms in your landscape or neighborhood.

Researchers are studying this disease and considering the number of species affected in different Florida counties. Moving forward, homeowners may use this information to recognize disease symptoms, learn about preventative antibiotics, and select palms and other plants that are less susceptible to disease.

For more information on protecting your palms, consult reference materials used to provide information for this column regarding Lethal Bronzing Disease and the application of Oxytetracycline Hydrochloride (OTC-HCl) to control palm phytoplasmas.

Those materials were written by B.W. Bahder and E.E. Helmick, and were published by UF/IFAS.

For additional information, email , or call (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County. Jan Ignash, UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County Master Gardener Volunteer, contributed to this article.

Published February 19, 2020

Gifts for the garden

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Wondering what to give the gardener in your life?

Here are few ideas that may be helpful to you.

Most gardeners have pruners they carry with them as they work in the garden. But, how often do they sharpen their pruners? You don’t need to take them anywhere or pay to get them sharpened – they are very easy to sharpen yourself.

A garden cart or wheelbarrow makes garden chores easier. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

For less than $25, you can buy your gardening friend a standard, pocket-sized sharpener, such as this Swiss Istor sharpener. It is lightweight, compact and easy-to-use. Carry it your pocket, apron or toolkit, so it’s ready to sharpen pruners on the go.

If you’re in the market for a planter, you might consider repurposing a cattle trough or stock tank. I’ve seen a lot of restaurants and shops doing that.

These troughs are sturdy, attractive and can be purchased in different sizes. They make it easy to reach plants without bending over, if you buy one that’s a few feet tall.

The sky is the limit regarding the types of plants and combinations a gardener may create in these containers. I have a stock tank on my list this year. It’s 49 gallons and measures 48 inches by 24 inches by 12 inches.

My plan is to stuff it with trellised vegetables, lettuces, herbs and edible flowers. As a bonus, the edible flowers will attract pollinators to the raised bed garden, which helps with pest control and fruit production.

Another great garden gift is a wheelbarrow or a garden cart to make it easier to move mulch, clippings, soil and debris around the garden — which can be a backbreaking chore.

Many gifts – such as plants, gift cards to local nurseries and pollinator-friendly garden signs – are a welcome addition to gardens.

Carts and wheelbarrows are versatile and useful in gardens large or small.

Houseplants also make a great gift.

Many people – including younger gardeners – are drawn to houseplants because they look attractive, can be easy to care for and help improve indoor air quality. I prefer a few large pots with lush, sturdy plants. But, moving these pots – for example, sweeping around them, moving them according to seasonal light changes, or taking them outside for a long soak and to rinse the leaves – can be cumbersome.

Rolling plant caddies can make that job much easier.

You can get planter pot movers for less than $25. Pick plant caddies in a standard color, such as dark brown or black, so they blend in with most pots.

Do you need some inspiration about houseplants? Check websites, social media pages and your local library for “houseplant groups,” “houseplant décor” or “houseplants.”

Bird feeders are great gifts, too. Wrap the bird feeder along with a good bird seed mix so the recipient can hang the feeder immediately. The birds will thank you, too.

Here’s an idea I picked up in Arizona a few years ago, when I visited a beautiful garden in the desert.

They hung prisms from shrubs and small trees, which reflected sunlight and made little rainbows around the garden, adding to the garden’s charm.

Backyard bird feeders and birdbaths make a nice gift for any gardener or wildlife enthusiast.

Prisms and other suncatchers make great gifts. Here’s a tip: If the prisms don’t come with a cord, be sure to include some heavy duty clear fishing line, or similar cord, to go along with your prism.

Of course, seasonal plants are a nice gift idea, too.

A pot of amaryllis or paperwhites bring holiday cheer to any room. They are easy to grow for any skill level. Many local nurseries and box stores carry these during the holidays. They make a nice addition to holiday décor, whether at home or at the office. As a bonus, amaryllis may be planted outside after blooming.

Garden books, flowerpots, pot clips, pot feet, macramé plant holders (yes, macramé is in style) and hose guards are all nice gifts. Garden signs that show your gardening friend’s appreciation for pollinators, birds and bees are a nice touch, too, especially if placed near a sidewalk or in a school or community garden plot.

When the garden is all spruced up, weeded and mulched (when is that ever done?!), sit back and relax with a cold drink. Place universal beverage/drink holder stakes around the garden and near patio areas and tables to encourage sitting for a moment and enjoying the garden on your own, or with pets, friends and family.

Of course, you can never go wrong with a gift card. Chances are the gardener in your life can always use one more plant! Gift cards to local nurseries help support local businesses and can give your recipient the option of all kinds of garden gifts, whether it’s a new plant, seeds, a tool, garden ornament or soil.

For additional information, contact or (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published December 18, 2019

Controlling noxious weeds in your yard

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Central Florida is home to some of the most diverse plant life in the state.

Cool, dry winters and hot, wet summers create a transitional zone where a variety of plants thrive, or can at least get by with a little help from their owners.

With the good news, comes the bad news — there are dozens of weeds that cause grief for property owners and managers.

Brazilian Peppertree. Image used in the 2014 Research Discoveries report. (Courtesy of UF/IFAS Communications)

Noxious weeds, which can out-compete native species, can be quite damaging.

In Central Florida, three common noxious weeds of great concern are: Brazilian peppertree, air potato vine, and cogongrass.

Brazilian peppertree was introduced perhaps more than 100 years ago as an ornamental plant.

Common along roads and canals, Brazilian peppertree has destroyed much of the native, protective mangroves and pine flatlands.

While attractive, its ability to overtake native vegetation and its potentially hazardous sap — which can cause severe rashes and lung irritation — make it undesirable.

Herbicide applications are effective for controlling Brazilian peppertree, but only when timed right and applied correctly.

The “cut stump method” of herbicide application is an excellent method for control.

Simply follow these steps:

  • Cut the tree stump as low to the ground as possible.
  • Within 5 minutes of making the cut, apply a herbicide labeled for use on Brazilian peppertree (with the active ingredients: triclopyr at the label rate, or glyphosate at 41% active ingredient or higher formulation, as ready-to-use formulas won’t be effective) just inside of the bark layer on the living tissue.
  • Cut the trees only when they are not fruiting; if seeds are visible, use great care to not spread them to new locations.
  • Avoid the sap, and use proper protective gear with cutting or removing these plants.
  • Do not burn Brazilian peppertree due to the potential for hazardous fumes from the sap.

Brazilian peppertree also can be controlled with a basal bark herbicide application. Consult with your local Extension Office for details on this method.

University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences scientists were granted approval for the release of a biological control for use on Brazilian peppertree in 2019. An insect species of thrips feed on the new shoots of Brazilian peppertree and have been found to be host-specific, meaning they only damage Brazilian peppertree.

Controlling other noxious weeds
Air potato vine is an extremely aggressive vine that can grow several inches in a day making it capable of towering up into the tops of trees while out-competing native vegetation along the way.

Biological controls, combined with other integrated pest management approaches, such as herbicide use, mechanical (removal) and cultural methods (proper timing, application methods, seasonality, etc.) have been highly effective at controlling air potato vine.

The release of the Air Potato Beetle, in 2012, by the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Sciences, in conjunction with UF/IFAS, has helped limit the spread of air potato vine.

Cogongrass is common throughout the Southeastern United States, taking over roadsides, fields, pine-forested areas and pasturelands. It is difficult to control and can be a fire hazard, too.

Early detection of cogongrass infestations is the key to control. Small areas of infestation are easier to manage compared to larger ones. There are two herbicides with effectiveness against cogongrass: glyphosate and imazapyr. Glyphosate is most advisable, since it does not persist in the soil. Just keep in mind that both herbicides can kill non-target plants. Multiple herbicide applications over several years is often necessary for control with frequent monitoring required to quickly treat any regrowth following herbicide applications.

Again, your local Extension Office can provide more guidance on how to attack these types of noxious weeds and others wreaking havoc in your landscape.

For a list of noxious weeds, visit the UF/IFAS Invasive Plant Assessment by going to https://assessment.ifas.ufl.edu/.

By Whitney C. Elmore

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published December 04, 2019

Keeping your lawnmower and your lawn, in tip-top shape

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Fall and winter months generally mean less mowing is needed, so this is a great time to check and service your lawnmower.

For a longer mower deck life, clean the dirt and grass out from under your mower deck.
(Courtesy of Camila Guillen, UF/IFAS)

Our lawnmowers worked hard this summer — clipping grass between frequent rains.

Getting my lawnmower serviced is one thing on my fall to-do list.

And, it may be on your to-do list, too.

So, I talked with Bob Latimer, a master gardener volunteer, for some advice on how to keep a lawnmower in top shape.

He offers the following suggestions:

  • Maintain your mower according to the owner’s manual. (Check the manual that came with the mower, or look for a manual for that model online).
  • Be sure to buy the correct type of mower for your type of grass. For example, UF/IFAS recommends a reel mower for fine-textured Bermudagrass kept at less than 1-inch high.
  • Check the owner’s manual for the proper setting of the mower deck. Standard St. Augustinegrass cultivars and bahiagrass may need a higher mower deck to cut the thick blades.
  • Keep in mind that gas-powered, self-propelled mowers may be better for large lawns. Battery and electric mowers may be used for smaller lawns.
  • Check the engine oil before you start the mower and refill the engine oil as needed. Non-ethanol gas may be better for the lawnmower and the carburetor.
  • Only buy the amount of gas you need because storing gas in the gas tank may lead to poor running problems or non-starting issues.
  • Check the air filter, and clean or replace it as needed.
  • Inspect the gas tank for dirt, and clean as needed. Be aware that if your lawnmower doesn’t run well, it may be from dirt getting into the gas tank or carburetor.
  • Be sure to clean any dirt from around the gas tank before removing the gas cap. This helps prevents dirt from falling into the gas tank and getting into the carburetor.
  • For self-propelled mowers, locate a qualified service technician to lubricate the axle point that transfers power from the motor to the wheels.
  • Replace the spark plug per the owner’s manual.
  • After mowing, protect the life of your mower deck by washing the dirt and grass out from under it.

Now that your lawnmower is in tip-top shape, here are some tips to help you maintain your lawn.

Remember, mowing your yard at the right height is one of the easiest ways to keep your lawn healthy.

Standard cultivars of St. Augustinegrass, such as ‘Floratam’ and ‘Palmetto,’ should be mowed at 3.5 inches to 4 inches. Dwarf St. Augustinegrass cultivars, such as ‘Delmar’ and ‘Seville,’ should be mowed at 2 inches to 2.5 inches.

Bahiagrass prefers a mowing height of 3 inches to 4 inches, medium- to coarse-textured zoysiagrasses should be mowed at 2 inches to 2.5 inches, and fine-textured zoysiagrass may be maintained at heights below 1 inch. Bermudagrass grows best when kept at 0.5 inch to 1.5 inches.

Additional advice on lawn care can be found in the following reference, which was used for this column: Trenholm, L.E., J.B. Unruh, and J.L. Cisar. (2018). Mowing Your Florida Lawn. IFAS Publication Number ENH10. Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences.

For more information, email , or call (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

By Nicole Pinson

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County. Bob Latimer, UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County Master Gardener Volunteer, contributed to this column.

Published October 2, 2019

Create a native landscape — use right plant, right place

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Florida has an abundance of beautiful native plants.

There are vines, trees, shrubs, ground covers and a few palms that are native to the state, and can make excellent additions to the landscape.

Coontie, like all cycadas, has ancient origins, according to the University of Florida. This Florida plant, however, is the only cycad native to North America. (Courtesy of University of Florida/IFAS Communications)

Some of these natives even serve as food sources for local wildlife, such as butterflies and some bats, and some can help negate the harsh heat and sun, and reduce the potential for flooding.

However, just because a plant is native doesn’t mean it will thrive everywhere.

Remember: The Florida Friendly Landscaping principle of putting the right plant, right place still applies.

When plants are put in the wrong place, they won’t do as well and, in some cases, they become a problem.

For example, a native that loves the shade won’t survive in the bright sun, or a native that needs to be high and dry won’t make it with “wet feet.”

Putting native plants in the right spots will help prevent many disease and insect problems.

Like other plants, natives need routine maintenance to keep them looking good and living their best life. Occasional pruning and removal of dead tissue is just as necessary with natives as non-native, non-invasive exotics.

Beautyberry, according to the University of Florida, is also called American mulberry. It is native to flatwoods and hammocks, but because of birds, has been spread far and wide.

Planted and maintained correctly, natives will thrive in the Florida landscape.

As with all plants, plant them “high” with the uppermost root of the root ball just above the surrounding soil and mulch, with a layer 2 inches to 3 inches deep that’s no closer than 6 inches from the trunk or base of the plant.

Native plants also need to be watered frequently to get established. Research shows there’s no difference in the amount of water required for establishment between natives and non-native plants.

Keep in mind, however, the bigger the plant, the longer the establishment period; light, frequent hand-watering is best for establishment.

For a three-gallon or smaller plant, irrigate to deliver one gallon of water three to four times per week, for up to five months.

Muhly grass is a native ornamental perennial that produces clouds of flower stalks, according to the University of Florida.

For trees, irrigate with two gallons to three gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter, two to three times per week, for up to six months. Once new roots are observed, less supplemental irrigation is necessary unless there’s an extended period of drought.

There are many great native plants to consider for the landscape, but the basic Florida Friendly Landscaping principles still apply. As with all plants, natives should only be located where there’s enough room for them to grow to their full potential height and width. And, some natives can be aggressive or potentially weedy (i.e., Spanish needle) so be sure to consult the UF/IFAS Aquatic and Invasive Plant directory (http://plants.ifas.ufl.edu/plants-by-common-name/) prior to planting.

Consider planting natives such as bald cypress, muhly grass, coontie, and beautyberry, but only if it’s the right plant for the right place.

For a list of native plants to consider in your landscape, visit http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/ornamentals/native-plants.html.

By Whitney C. Elmore

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published August 14, 2019

Natural ‘enemies’ can attack garden pests

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Summer months may stress plants because we often see periods of increased rainfall and then periods of drought along with intense heat.

And, when plants are stressed, they may be more susceptible to pests.

When it comes to combating these pests, don’t forget there are many natural enemies that eat pest insects.

Aphids are the favorite food source of the adult convergent ladybeetle, Hippodamia convergens. (Courtesy of James Castner and Lyle Buss, University of Florida/IFAS)

These natural enemies, that are considered good or beneficial, include lacewings, ladybeetles, assassin bugs, spiders, hover flies, dragonflies and mantids.

Some commercial companies raise these natural enemies and ship them to gardeners who then release the insects for pest control.

Prior to purchasing natural enemies, identify the pest insect or mite. This will help you match the appropriate control with the pest.

If you need help identifying the pest, reach out to your local county Extension Office.

Natural enemies that are available from commercial companies may include predatory mites, predatory insects and parasitic wasps.

Ladybeetles (also known as ladybugs) are one of the most common beneficial insects purchased for home gardens. There are many different kinds, or species, of ladybeetles. Some eat specific pests such as aphids or whiteflies, which is why it is important to identify the pest so you know what beneficial insects to purchase or to encourage in your garden.

These beetles help home gardeners – and farmers – because they are phytophagous, which means they eat plant pests that feed on ornamental plants and crops, such as cabbage, corn, melons, peaches and potatoes. Some ladybeetles also attack the Asian citrus psyllid. It is this psyllid that transmits the bacterium that causes the citrus greening disease.

Ladybeetles undergo a complete metamorphosis, starting off as a tiny yellow or orange egg. They look very different as they go through their life cycle (egg, larva, pupa, adult).

However, many ladybeetles are field collected from natural areas where they aggregate (form large groups) and overwinter. They may carry parasites or pathogens. If they are collected when they are reproductively immature, they may be less effective as a biological control.

Adult ladybeetles will often fly away when released. Because of these reasons, it may be better to encourage ladybeetles through your gardening practices rather than purchasing adult ladybeetles.

Did you know that the larval form of the ladybeetle is a more voracious pest-eater than the adult form?

Ladybeetle larvae (some people say they look like small alligators) eat aphids, leafhoppers, mites, mealybugs, scales, thrips, whiteflies and some other insects, such as pest beetles, caterpillars and lacebugs.

There is a variety of colors and patterns among the larvae of various ladybeetle species.

The life cycle of the ladybeetle reminds us that insects may look very different as they grow and develop through their different stages. Because the larvae can look very different from the adults, knowing how to recognize insects can help you figure distinguish between the good insects from the pests.

Of the many different ladybeetles, some prey on specific plant pests. Delphastus catalinae eats whiteflies. Cryptolaemus montrouzieri, also known as the mealybug destroyer (my favorite) eats mealybugs. Hippodamia convergens larvae can eat between 30 and 50 aphids per day.

If you purchase adult ladybeetles, be sure to match the ladybeetle species that will eat the pest you’ve identified in your garden. Purchase ladybeetle larvae when possible, and buy from reputable companies that sell ladybeetles that are parasite- and disease-free. Check the Association of Natural Biocontrol Producers (ANBP) website for a list of companies.

There is a variety of colors and patterns among the larvae of various ladybeetle species.

Interestingly, the UF/IFAS Extension Entomology and Nematology department explains that ladybeetles are pollinators, and they will also feed on pollen, honeydew and nectar from flowers, when prey is scarce. But, in order to reproduce, they need to eat live prey.

You can encourage ladybeetles – and other beneficial insects – without having to buy them.

To attract the good bugs to your garden:

  • Plant a variety of flowers that bloom at different times of the year and that have different colors and flower shapes
  • Provide a refuge for insects by reducing or eliminating pesticide use.

Alternatively, soft pesticides, such as insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, spinosad and Bacillus thuringiensis (also known as Bt), may be used for many pests

The soft pesticides pose less risk to non-target organisms, such as beneficials and pollinators. Consider native plants that may attract specialized pollinators. Plants that contain structures called extrafloral nectaries are especially attractive to beneficial insects.

If you’d like more information about this, consult these sources, which were used in this column:

For additional information, email or call (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published July 24, 2019

Pointers for easy pest control in your garden

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Spring gardening is upon us, a time when many Florida gardeners plant vegetables, trees and landscape shrubs. If we have turf, we pay attention to bare spots, patches and insects.

As your plants and turf grow, be on the lookout for pests and problems. Try to notice issues early and get help from your local Extension office, if needed.

Consider using less toxic pest control methods and products around edible crops. (Nicole Pinson)

Some of the easiest and least expensive strategies for mitigating pest and disease problems include:
• Choose the right plant for the right place

  • Select plants for site conditions and pest resistance
  • Plant a diverse garden
  • Use mulch
  • Pull weeds
  • Sanitize tools, when needed
  • Encourage natural enemies (good bugs that prey on pest bugs)

Of course, there are recommendations for pest and weed control, both online and through word-of-mouth.

Some are anecdotal; others are research-based.

Research-based recommendations have been tested in Florida and these recommendations promote using products according to the label. For example, although moth balls are a registered pesticide with the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), their use in the landscape to control pests and nuisance wildlife is prohibited. It is against the law when moth balls are used in this way.

When using chemical products, start with the least toxic methods. These products generally cause less harm to non-target insects and animals, and some may be used in organic gardening.

These are some least toxic products and the pests they control:

  • Neem oil for soft-bodied insects, such as aphids, scales and whiteflies, cucumber beetles, caterpillars and spider mites
  • Neem extracts with azadirachtin for caterpillars, flea beetles, weevils, aphids and leafhoppers
  • Spinosad for fire ants, thrips, sawflies, caterpillars (such as armyworms, bean leafroller, cabbage looper, corn earworm/fruitworm, diamondback moth and pickleworm), flies, beetles, spider mites and thrips
  • Bt-k (Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki) for caterpillars, such as armyworms, bean leafroller, cabbage looper, corn earworm/fruitworm, fall webworm, loopers, bagworms, hornworms and squash vine borer
  • Bt (other Bacillus thuringiensis varieties) for fly larvae (mosquitoes, fungus gnats), wax moth larvae and some beetles
  • Horticultural oil (petroleum-based) for soft-bodied insects and mites, including scales, aphids, spider mites, mealybugs and whiteflies
  • Insecticidal soap (potassium salts of fatty acid) for soft-bodied insects and mites, including soft scales, aphids, mealybugs and whiteflies
  • Diatomaceous earth (silica shells of diatoms) for ants, fleas, bed bugs, cockroaches, millipedes, sowbugs, and other small, soft-bodied insects

Plant a diverse garden to control pests and disease. Take a proactive, less toxic pest control approach.

Spring is a great time to be on the lookout for pests and problems.

If you are looking for where to purchase beneficial organisms, also known as “natural enemies,” check this publication: “Guidelines for Purchasing and Using Commercial Natural Enemies and Biopesticides in North America,” by Lynn M. LeBeck and Norman C. Leppla. Specifically, check Tables 1 and 2, for suppliers.

Consider adding plants that attract pollinators and beneficial insects. Some of these plants also have extrafloral nectaries, which are nectar-producing glands found in some plant families, that are separate from the flower. Passionvines are one type of plant with these extrafloral nectaries.

To find out more, check out these IFAS publications: “Natural Products for Managing Landscape and Garden Pests in Florida,” and “Organic Vegetable Gardening in Florida.”

For additional information, contact or (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published June 05, 2019