The Laker/Lutz News

Serving Pasco since 1981/Serving Lutz since 1964

Whitney C. Elmore

Giant African land snails show up in Pasco County

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Giant African land snails were found in a small area of Pasco County in June 2022.

A citizen found several unfamiliar snails and sent a photo to the University of Florida/IFAS Extension Office in Pasco County for identification.

That led to the positive identification of the invasive pest – the Giant African land snail — considered one of the most destructive worldwide.

Giant African land snails (GALS) are mollusks native to east Africa and have been found in several Caribbean locations and Hawaii over the years.

The Giant African land snail can grow to 7 inches in length and can destroy agricultural crops, ornamental plants and can even cause structural damage. An area in New Port Richey is under quarantine to keep the invasive pest from spreading. (Courtesy of Andrew Derksen/Florida Department of Agricultural and Consumer Services, Department of Plant Industry)

They’ve been identified twice before in the state of Florida – once in the 1960s and again in the 2000s in the Miami-Dade area.

The Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services (FDACS) eradicated the pests in both instances.

The June 2022 identification in Pasco County led to an agricultural quarantine being set up in a small corner of New Port Richey.

The quarantine is designed to prevent the snail from escaping the area, which is extremely important in the fight to rid the state of the snails once again.

The quarantine does not affect those living outside of the zone, and those living in the zone are directed by the Department of Plant Industry (DPI), a division within FDACS, not to move plants, plant materials such as soil and yard waste, or building materials out of the quarantined zone, to ensure the snail is contained.

People and pets are still free to move about as usual.

Containment will allow specialists to find and eliminate the pests, before they can do damage and spread to other locations.

Businesses, solid waste collectors, and route-based landscaping companies are advised by DPI on how to handle these materials to stop the snails from spreading.

Homeowners are playing a big role in identifying the pest.  For those living in the quarantine zone, FDACS has been in contact and advising residents what to do if they see any.

These snails are harmful
These snails are capable of damaging our agricultural crops and many of our beloved ornamental plants in the landscape. They can consume over 500 different species of plants. In some cases, this can lead to the loss of habitat important to plant and animal species native to Florida, as well as causing economic losses.

The snails can eat stucco and paint on homes making them a structural pest.

They also can carry a parasite — rat lungworm — which is capable of causing meningitis in severe cases. While most cases are mild/moderate, handling these snails or the soil and plants they infest can be a point of exposure for animals, pets and humans.

Obviously, eradication of GALS is necessary to protect property, agricultural and ornamental commodities, and health.

The snails are hermaphroditic, which means each individual snail can produce fertile eggs — there are no males or females.

The ruler in this photo provides perspective on the size of these Giant African land snails. (University of Florida/Florida Institute for Food and Agricultural Sciences)

This fact increases the potential for more offspring and their subsequent spread. Adult snails can reach 7 inches in length, which makes them an exceptionally large snail species.

The snails are terrestrial, and while they can be found near water, they won’t be found in the water.

The snails are nocturnal, so they are mainly active at night. They prefer cool, damp areas, making the area under and around shrubbery a potential hiding spot. The Pasco County GALS have brown shells with creamy white colored flesh, which is unique to the other GALS found over the years in Florida.

Typically, the flesh is brown and basically the same color as the shell.

The Pasco County GALS were most likely introduced through the illegal pet trade, since the contrast between the brown shell and creamy white colored flesh makes them more appealing.

Thousands of GALS have been found within the quarantine zone in Pasco County. To date, none have been discovered outside of the zone.

The FDACS is working diligently with trained sniffer dogs to detect all life stages of the GALS, by scouting in and around the quarantine zone. FDACS is working closely with route-based landscaping companies and nurseries in the area to ensure those businesses are not negatively affected. It is illegal to possess, sell, or transport GALS anywhere in the United States

If you think you suspect you might have GALS, please contact DPI at 1-800-Help-FLA (1-800-435-7352), for help with identification.

The best weapon we have against invasive pests is a smartphone. Pictures be easily be shared by email, speeding up the identification process.

Pictures also are the best way to stay safe from the potential rat lungworm infection, because gloves and careful handling would be required to prevent infection.

Report anything out of the ordinary
Citizens often are the first to encounter invasive pests, and saying something when you see something unusual is key.

Florida has a conducive environment for invasive pests to survive, and the trade and travel into our ports, airports, rail, and illegal pet trade provide a variety of opportunities for a pest to find its way into our state and do damage.

Feel free to reach out to your local UF/IFAS Extension Office for help identifying things you find around the home.

Together, we can help prevent the spread of invasive plants, diseases, and animals.

To learn more about the quarantine zone and the efforts to eradicate GALS in Pasco County, visit tinyurl.com/ypkysp26.

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County extension director and an urban horticulture agen IV.

Published August 18, 2022

Take a long view, when choosing trees

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When it comes to trees in the landscape, size matters.

Careful planning can save a lot of trouble down the road because trees that don’t have enough room to grow and mature can damage curbs, roadways and foundations.

A tree without sufficient space also can become unstable and can turn into a safety hazard.

Keep in mind that trees are investments in your property and in the environment. Nobody wants to remove a tree, years down the road, simply because it’s too large. The cost can run into the thousands of dollars.

The Chickasaw plum grows to 20 feet to 25 feet tall, and has small, white flowers that are very fragrant. The fruit are red to yellow with a tart but pleasant flavor. The trees are dramatic when in bloom, but do possess thorny branches. (Courtesy of the University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences)

Tree species, like any other landscape plant, have needs. When selecting a tree for your landscape, there are many considerations such as hardiness zone, wind rating (for tropical storms), color, texture, and harmony with the surrounding landscape.

First though, you must consider the mature height and width of any tree you are interested in planting. For example, if a tree species grows to a mature height of 40 feet and a mature width of 30 feet, trying to cram it into a small yard — with less than 20 feet of space in either direction — is a recipe for disaster. The branches and roots both can become hazards.

Well-established trees will develop a root flare, or a swollen area at the base of the trunk that aids in anchoring the plant. This is where lateral roots will grow in all directions. These roots are responsible for taking up most of the nutrients and moisture needed by the tree and for providing stability.

The general rule of thumb for lateral root spread is two to three times the mature height of the tree beyond the outer edge of the tree’s canopy. A 40-foot tree could easily have roots extending up to 120 feet in any direction.

Many homeowners find themselves with difficult choices to make once trees begin to outgrow their space. For instance, they might try root shaving. Root shaving is not a best practice, as the tree may become unstable or negatively affected by the process.

The Dahoon and East Palatka hollies are evergreen trees that grow 20 feet to 45 feet tall and do very well in Central Florida. The female develops bright red berries in the fall, which entice wildlife to visit and provide seasonal color.

In most cases, a tree that doesn’t have adequate space will need to be removed.

Besides being costly, it also can be dangerous if not conducted by a certified arborist.

The typical small Florida landscape doesn’t support most of the larger trees we’re used to seeing, such as oaks. Instead of repeating the same mistakes over again, consider planting smaller, native trees that will provide shade, beauty and much desired curb appeal.

Some small, native trees have a variety of benefits beyond fitting well into a given space. Some will allow for more sunlight to filter through, allowing for better growth of some turfgrasses, which cannot tolerate shade.

The diversity these trees bring to the landscape is an added benefit, with many serving as nests for birds, roosting and resting spots for butterflies and other pollinators. Smaller trees are less likely to be damaged during storms and they will be easier to prune, if the need arises. The blooms, and even the bark and foliage, can be focal points for the landscape providing color and appeal throughout the entire year, while helping to increase property values.

The greater the diversity of trees and shrubs in the landscape, the better the environment. Regardless of the plant, it is critical that the right plant is put into the right place, or it will fail to thrive over time. Even if space is considered, the plant might not be well-suited to the environment in a particular location given the differences in soil type, saltwater tolerance, light, drought tolerance, etc.

Examples of small, native trees that do well in Central Florida include some well-known species, as well as some that are underutilized.

The pond cypress is an adaptable tree that can grow 50 feet to 60 feet tall but it possesses a narrow canopy, which makes it ideal for particular situations where height isn’t an issue, but width is. These trees do well in wet areas, but they can tolerate dry conditions. The pond cypress offers bright green awl-shaped leaves that turn brown in the fall. The light brown fall leaves are very pretty. Remember, brown is a color, too, when it comes to nature, so don’t shy away from it. As the leaves drop through winter, the light brown, ridged bark comes into view making them a dynamic plant throughout various seasons.

The pond cypress is an adaptable tree that can grow 50 feet to 60 feet tall but it possesses a narrow canopy, which makes it ideal in situations where height isn’t an issue, but width is.

The Dahoon and East Palatka hollies are gorgeous evergreen trees that grow 20 feet to 45 feet tall, and do very well in Central Florida. The female develops bright red berries in the fall, which entice wildlife to visit and provide seasonal color.

The Chickasaw plum grows to 20 feet to 25 feet tall, and has small, white flowers that are very fragrant. The fruit are red to yellow with a tart but pleasant flavor. These trees are quite dramatic when in bloom, but they do possess thorny branches that could limit the appeal in some situations.

The wax myrtle is a wispy plant that only grows to about 20 feet tall. It’s an evergreen with beautiful whitish-gray bark and olive-green foliage that possesses a spicy fragrance. It can be a showstopper in the right location.

While the sweet acacia tree isn’t too common due to its sharp spines, it’s a beautiful tree with bright, yellow flowers so fragrant they are often added to perfumes. The soft, greenish-gray leaflets make for a sharp contrast against the yellow flowers that persist throughout spring. The sweet acacia normally reaches 20 feet to 25 feet in height.

These trees are just a sampling of the options available for Central Florida homeowners to brighten the landscape.

Trees, including small ones, are incredibly important to the health and vitality of our environment. Trees provide shade, cooling effects, pollinator and animal habitat, ecological diversity, and of course, attractive foliage and colorful blooms to our world.

In summary, planting the right plant in the right place is critical to the survival of the plant, potentially the stability of surrounding structures, and certainly to our quality of life.

For more information, call your local UF/IFAS Extension Office. Your local horticulture agent will be able to provide information specific to your needs for healthy trees and shrubs.

Published March 23, 2022

Smell something stinky in your landscape?

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What is that smell?

If you are talking about a terrible odor in your yard, it could be the scent of stinkhorn fungi.

Late winter into early spring in Central Florida is the time during which stinkhorn fungi make an appearance.

Stinkhorn fungi can take on different looks, and it smells horrible, but it plays a valuable role in improving soil health. (Courtesy of Whitney Elmore)

The weird fungal growths are not harmful.

In fact, they are quite beneficial organisms that decompose dead plants and animals — recycling those nutrients back into the environment.

While related to mushrooms, such as puffballs and earthstars, stinkhorn fungi are very unusual in appearance, often keeping their identity a mystery to those finding them simply because they don’t really look like anything else you might have seen.

You may not even see them in the environment due to their odd appearance, but you’ll certainly smell them.

Stinkhorn fungi are aptly named due to the putrid aroma that emanates 20 feet or more away from the actual fungus.

Stinkhorn fungi are very commonly found growing in landscaping mulch and compost, which they are slowly decomposing and using as a food source.

These fungi prefer the cooler months and usually emerge from below ground following a rain event.

Another look at stinkhorn fungi. (Courtesy of David Clode, University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (IFAS))

Most of the stinkhorn’s body is underground and a white, egg-like protrusion is the first indication that one is emerging. The rest of the stinkhorn’s body will emerge over a few days.

Depending on the species, they might look round; be an upright, tubular protrusion; or even have a lattice-like network of filaments. The color ranges from yellow to orange, and maybe even red.

Stinkhorn fungi gradually decompose over a four-day to five-day period as they complete their life cycle.

Early in their development, the fungi will emit a foul odor that can persist for days. Some say the odor smells like rotting flesh, while others might say it smells like rotting eggs.

Recently, a homeowner called the Pasco Extension Office concerned about the smell of methane emanating from the yard. Upon further investigation, it was determined the cause of the smell was a stinkhorn fungus.

You might not see it, but you’ll very likely smell stinkhorn fungi.

While we won’t appreciate the rotting smell associated with these fungi, it is essential to their survival and spread to new areas. The smell attracts ants, flies and other insects that will carry the spores (microscopic seed-like structures) to new locations with more food sources.

Luckily, stinkhorn fungi are harmless to landscape plants, trees, shrubs and so on.

Stinkhorn fungi, as well as other decomposers, help to break down tiny pieces of organic matter helping to build a healthier soil profile, which then can support plants much more effectively. This benefit is really important considering Central Florida soils are very poor with little to no organic matter and low water-holding capacity.

Since stinkhorn fungi are beneficial, and not harmful, there’s no need to try to control them.

If you notice stinkhorns in one place, it’s possible you’ll continue to see them in the same area for several seasons. If they are troublesome due to the smell, simply place a plastic bag over the egg-like protrusion as soon as you notice them, collect the fungus, tie up the bag and throw it away.

Allowing them to mature will increase the chance that they will spread, as will running over them with a mower.

Looks — and smells — can be deceiving in the landscape.

Do some research on land-grant university websites, or better yet, call your local Extension Office to get help identifying unusual things in your landscape. You just might discover that they are more helpful than you could ever imagine.

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County extension director and an urban horticulture agent III.

Published March 03, 2021

Hype over Asian hornets threatens innocent insects

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The world was turned on its head when “Jaws” was released in 1975.

The phenomenally successful movie made people wonder: Was it safe to go back in the water?

Concerns over safety, however, led to the millions of shark deaths.

Yellow jackets, another common Florida wasp, also are mistaken for ‘murder hornets.’ Yellow jackets are beneficial. They prey upon insect pests. (Courtesy of Celeste Welty/Ohio State University)

While 1975 could arguably be called “the year of the shark,” this year might be called the year of “the insect.”

Headlines have honed in on giant Asian hornets, also known as “murder hornets,” and that has created confusion — putting innocent insects in harm’s way.

The invasive giant Asian hornet was trapped in the state of Washington in 2019, and it also was captured across the border, in Canada.

This invader is native to Asia and most likely accidentally introduced to the United States, through a shipping container on a cargo ship.

The state of Washington quickly mobilized local beekeepers and state agricultural biologists to track, trap and destroy the hornets effectively leaving Washington state, and the rest of the U.S., murder-hornet free.

Just recently — at the end of August — there were more sightings in the state of Washington, so experimental traps are being set to see if they can find out more about them.

When the insect was first discovered in Washington, a news story was published raising alarms nationwide —leading to hundreds of reported sightings.

Those sightings were not murder hornets.

But, the fear  prevails.

Jun-ichi Takahasi, a specialist on the species from Japan, says that the hornet earned the “murder hornet” moniker from its aggressive behavior, its ability to deliver extremely painful stings and for the possibility that just a few stings can be fatal for humans, according to a report published this May.

Understandably, the public is concerned.

Beekeepers are concerned, too, since the hornet is adept at killing adult honeybees and feeding the larvae to its young.

Florida, popular for its beaches and warm winters and hot summers, has a conducive environment for invasive plants and species.

It has vines that choke the life out of native plant populations and pythons that choke the life out of native wildlife.

The giant Asian hornet has a yellow head, a black thorax, and yellow and black or brown stripes along its abdomen, making its size and color quite distinctive compared to any other insect in Florida. (Courtesy of Allan Smith-Pardo/USDA APHIS PPQ)

Florida also has plenty of wild areas where invasive pests can hide.

However, there have been no verified sightings of murder hornets in Florida, or nearly anywhere else in the U.S.

Still, the fear about murder hornets could endanger Florida’s native and beneficial insects that just so happen to resemble the now-famous hornet species.

These beneficial insects could be in jeopardy, just as sharks fell victim to human overreaction and sensationalism.

Here’s a look at some of the insects that could be at risk.

The most common wasp species mistaken for the giant Asian hornet is the cicada killer, also known as ground hornets.

Large and intimidating, cicada killers are not harmful. In fact, they help control the population of damaging plant-eating cicadas. There are a few species in Florida and throughout the Caribbean. Generally, they are not aggressive, but they are capable of stinging, if provoked.

Although not considered dangerous, any of the wasp species can be harmful to those with allergies, small children and the elderly.

It’s best to not encourage them to live close by using mulch to cover bare soil and, if necessary, using labeled insecticides can rid an area of the wasps.

Cicada killer colors, depending on the species, appear red to black with large, yellow spots. While the cicada killer is large, compared to other wasp species at 1.5-inches long, they pale in comparison to the giant Asian hornet which can grow to more than 2.5-inches long.

The giant Asian hornet has a yellow head, a black thorax, and yellow and black or brown stripes along its abdomen, making its size and color quite distinctive compared to any other insect in Florida.

The common paper wasp, commonly mistaken for a ‘murder hornet,’ is beneficial. It helps to pollinate plants and makes a great biological pest control, controlling damaging caterpillars. (Courtesy of Russ Ottens/University of Georgia)

Another wasp — the common paper wasp — also is commonly mistaken for a ‘murder hornet.” The paper wasp typically keeps to itself, but it can sting, if provoked.

Paper wasps are beneficial. They help to pollinate plants and they make a great biological pest control, controlling damaging caterpillars.

They can sting to protect their nests, but they typically are not a problem.

If they do become a problem, careful application of a labeled aerosol spray in the evening, after the wasps have returned to their nest, can address the issue.

Yellow jackets, another common Florida wasp, also are mistaken for “murder hornets.”

Yellow jackets are more aggressive in defending their homes than other wasp species, but they, too, are beneficial. They prey upon insect pests. Yellow jackets are distinctive in their coloration, which consists of a black body with bright, yellow stripes.

Another ground-dwelling wasp — the bald-faced hornet — also sometimes is mistaken for the giant Asian hornet. But, the bald-faced hornet wasp has very distinctive black and white coloration, and dwells in aerial nests.

The bald-faced hornet also is not a threat.

All of these wasps are hornets. Hornet is just a term for wasps that typically have above-ground nests. Yellow jacket is a term generally reserved for those wasps with underground nests.

People are concerned about the potential spread of the giant Asian hornets.

But, they can rest assured that the United States Department of Agriculture and Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services are vigilant.

They are constantly monitoring for invasive pathogens, insects and viruses that have potential to do harm to the native bees and wildlife, including the vitally important European honey bees, which surprisingly, are not a native species.

As sharks have been killed needlessly over the past four decades, innocent insects are being killed more frequently because of mistaken identity.

Those actions lead to potential ecological damage, as populations of native and non-native beneficial species are affected.

Many of these insects help pollinate crops, home gardens and ornamental plants.

They also can serve as important food sources for other animals.

Florida is rich in plant and animal diversity — so mistaken identities are understandable, but caution and patience should govern our reactions.

To learn more on this topic, visit:
Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services – FDACS.gov
Florida Wildlife Commission – MyFWC.com
University of Florida/IFAS Pasco Cooperative Extension Office – SFYL.ifas.ufl.edu/pasco/.

Controlling wasps
Wasps play a beneficial role and should not be killed unnecessarily, but occasional control may be needed. If so, here are some things to keep in mind:

  • For yellow jackets (wasps nesting below ground), call in a licensed, pest control operator. These wasps are aggressive, and it’s difficult to get to the nests.
  • For hornets, or wasp species with small nests, use aerosol sprays labeled for their use on wasps. These types of spray can be sprayed from several feet away from the nest, to help avoid stings.
  • For large, aerial nests in trees, consult a licensed professional for removal options.

Need help?
If you believe you have spotted something unknown to our state, potentially dangerous, or simply unusual, there are resources to help with identification, and if necessary, offer control strategies.

The University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences Cooperative Extension Service can help with identification and can help you learn more about the insects.

The Florida Wildlife Commission and the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services also are good sources of information.

Source: Whitney C. Elmore, is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published September 23, 2020

Seasonal growing — for food and color

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Short, cool days don’t necessarily scream gardening season.

But, many vegetables, herbs and beautiful flowers just love winter in Florida. December is a good month to plant cool season herbs, such as sage, dill, fennel, cilantro, thyme and parsley.

Veggies, such as carrot, cabbage, lettuce and cauliflower do well when planted at this time, too.

Azalea (Courtesy of UF/IFAS Communications)

Add a pop of color to your landscape by planting petunias, pansies, violets or snapdragons in December or early in the New Year.

Be sure to plant these in clusters — and stick to one type of plant to reduce the chance of cluttering the landscape with too many plants that don’t fit the rest of the landscape at this time of year.

Remember to collect those fallen leaves in fall and winter for use in compost, which will benefit your gardens later in the season.

Collecting the leaves is a great way to recycle and add organic matter to the garden for free. (To learn more about composting, visit: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep323).

January also is a great month for gardening in Central Florida.

Camellias come in a variety of sizes, shapes and colors. Some are even fragrant. January is a good time to plant camellias.

Cabbage

Deciduous fruit trees, or those that lose their leaves in winter, such as peaches, nectarines and plums, also should be planted in January. This gives their roots the best chance to grow and anchor the plant for nutrient uptake prior to the hotter and usually drier months of spring.

Start growing broccoli, carrots, lettuce, kale and potatoes at this time, too.

You’ve also probably noticed that many of the landscapes in Central Florida feature crapemyrtles. These small, popular trees charm us with color and variety, but often fall victim to heavy pruning at the wrong time of the year, which leaves them mutilated and struggling to survive.

The best time of the year to prune broken or crossing branches and remove seed pods from crapemyrtles is in January. Heavy pruning, or “crape murder,” is not necessary on these plants. A trim of slim, leggy branches will spruce them up in winter and prepare them for spring. (For more detailed information on proper pruning of crapemyrtles, visit: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep399).

Also, don’t let those colorful poinsettias you received as gifts in December go to waste. Plant them in a sunny, well-drained spot in the garden in January or February. They make excellent additions to the landscape. (Visit: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep349 for more information on using poinsettias in the landscape).

Azaleas, a Southern flowering staple suitable for the shadier areas, perform well when planted in February, as do many veggies.

While some veggies are cold-hardy, it might be necessary to protect more sensitive veggies on nights when frost or freeze is predicted. Cold protection, for sensitive plants, is necessary on nights when the temps dip below 40OF.

Crapemyrtle

Minimize damage to sensitive plants by covering with a light blanket or sheet, making sure it extends all the way down to the ground so that the warmth of the soil can move up into the canopy of the plant. (For more information on cold protection, visit: http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/weather/preparing-the-landscape-for-cold-weather.html).

February is a good month to prune away old rose canes and do selective pruning to shape the plant. Fertilize in February with a balanced fertilizer and apply mulch at this time. Within two months, your roses should be blooming beautifully.

March brings warmer weather, but it’s usually quite dry. Winter annuals will start to struggle with the higher temperatures, so consider planting salvia and caladiums (a perennial) to provide quick color well into the summer months.

March also ushers in warm-season vegetable planting. Squash, peppers and beans grow well when planted in March. Tomatoes are widely popular, but don’t grow well in the summer; consider planting them as soon as the threat of frost has gone, which is normally late February into the middle of March.

As soon as azaleas stop blooming, prune them in late March to achieve a better shape and denser plant (avoid hedge clippers on these plants though). March is the month to begin fertilizing palms, azaleas and camellias. Use balanced fertilizers designed for each of these plants, as their nutritional needs vary along with pH requirements. (For information on landscape fertilization, visit: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/mg448).

Winter is a fine time to garden in Central Florida. You can prep for spring gardening, grow your own veggies and add beautiful color to your landscape.

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published January 2, 2019

Food safety issues aren’t confined to the kitchen

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Several high-profile cases of food poisoning and related illnesses recently have caught the attention of home gardeners.

Infections caused by rat lungworm from slugs, and infections caused by E. coli and Salmonella bacteria contamination are not new.

When you water plants intended for consumption, the water should be coming from a potable (drinkable) source. Reclaimed water is not suitable for edible food crops grown at home. Reclaimed water is recycled wastewater. (Courtesy of UF/IFAS)

Thousands of food safety fact sheets, videos and classes are available regarding our understanding and prevention of these illnesses, especially to those working in the food preparation industries and agricultural commodities.

The United States has the best food safety protocols and regulations on the planet, but the occasional parasite slips through undetected from improper handling, preparation or storage. Some of these illnesses are short-lived while some, especially in immune-compromised individuals, young children or senior-citizens, can develop life-threatening illnesses. Luckily, this is extremely rare, considering the amount of foods grown, produced, processed, shipped, stored and cooked across the nation.

Some home gardeners feel more confident in their ability to grow and store their own produce safely.

However, this doesn’t necessarily mean the produce is safer or that you can stop taking precautions in your quest to grow and store homegrown produce properly.

Regardless of where your produce is grown, it is exposed to the environment and potential pests. Mostly, those pests are only interested in eating your plants and do us no harm, but how we handle our plants, both while they’re in the ground and during harvest is important in preventing illnesses.

Leafy plants, such as lettuce, kale and cabbage, have hundreds of nooks and crannies where water can get trapped on the leaf surface.

Plus, these are potentially good areas for parasites to set up a protected home, if the water that gets on these leaves is contaminated. And, this could be a potential problem, if we don’t properly wash and cook our produce.

Leafy plants, such as lettuce, kale and cabbage have hundreds of nooks and crannies where water can get trapped on the leaf surface. These are potentially good areas for parasites to set up a protected home, if the water that gets on these leaves is contaminated.

However, this doesn’t mean you shouldn’t buy or grow leafy veggies, as they are just as safe as any others.

All fruits and veggies have a potential to harbor parasites. It’s about how we handle and prepare them that means the difference between a great meal and potential illness.

When you water plants intended for consumption, the water should be coming from a potable (drinkable) source. Reclaimed water is not suitable for edible food crops grown at home. Reclaimed water is recycled wastewater.

Water from rain barrels is also not recommended on edible plants or veggie gardens, as parasites from bird droppings and chemicals from roofing materials, and so on, might be present in rain barrel water.

If water from these sources gets on the leaves and the produce isn’t thoroughly washed at harvest and before cooking, there’s a potential for bacteria and other parasites to hide in those nooks.

Your plant roots, not leaves, should be watered carefully, not just to prevent parasites but to also ensure the plant can use the water.

Roots, not leaves, absorb water. Plus, water on the leaves can promote plant diseases. These diseases won’t make you sick, but they can certainly cause some heartache if your plants die. Furthermore, if you have slugs or snails eating on your plants, and you’re not controlling them, there’s a very small risk of consuming tiny slugs/snails with parasites. Keeping an eye out for these during harvest is an easy way to prevent storing them in your veggies.

All veggies and fruits, whether they are grown at home or purchased from a store, should be carefully washed and inspected for potential “creepy crawlies” before consumption.

Proper washing, cooking and sanitation are just as critical in food storage and preparation as safe handling in the garden.

Planning your garden carefully can also make our foods less susceptible to contamination. Some spots in the garden might be more prone to pet urination or contamination from feces washing across the soil surface during heavy rains and irrigation events.

Food safety isn’t just for the kitchen.

Food-borne illnesses can be prevented. Food safety starts in the garden.

For more information about food safety, and proper storage and handling instructions, please visit: Harvesting Vegetables and Food Preservation and Safety. For information about controlling snails and slugs in the garden, visit: Snails and Slugs.

The University of Florida’s Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (UF/IFAS) is a federal, state, and county partnership dedicated to developing knowledge in agriculture, human and natural resources, and the life sciences and to making that knowledge accessible to sustain and enhance the quality of human life.

By Whitney C. Elmore

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published August 15, 2018

Caladiums offer a kaleidoscope of color

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If you’re looking for a plant that brings color and interest to the landscape, consider adding some caladiums to your yard.

Caladiums produce vibrant colors and stunning patterns on their leaves, which attract attention.

They are tropical foliage plants that thrive in shady nooks and crannies making them easy to grow in Florida’s hot, humid weather.

Selecting a color may be the most difficult thing about growing caladiums — since planting is simple and maintenance minimal.
(Courtesy of University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences)

Caladiums look great as landscape plants, but also stand out in pots and containers.

Perhaps best of all: Caladiums offer beautiful color displays from summer to fall and again in the spring.

There are dozens of cultivars to choose from. Some have large, heart-shaped leaves, while others have long, narrow leaves reminiscent of an arrow.

The color kaleidoscope ranges from shades of green to red, purple, pinks, white, and variegated mixes of multiple colors.

Leaves average from 6 inches to 12 inches in height, and they grow fast, reaching mature size in just one season.

Selecting a color may be the most difficult thing about growing caladiums — since planting is simple and maintenance is minimal.

Caladiums grow from underground tubers, and you can purchase them already having stems or without.

The tubers are “knobby” with “eyes” much like a potato.

When planting, place that knobby side up, with at least 2 inches between each tuber. Plant them no more than 2 inches deep.

Plant the tubers when the soil temperature is at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit, as tubers will not do well in cooler soils.

Caladiums like a lot of moisture; they do not like saturated or dry soil.

Remember, these are tropical plants, so they’ll need to be watered frequently to keep them moist.

Mulching around the plant helps lock in moisture and makes the area more appealing as well, but it’s not required.

When they die back in the winter, simply cut away the stems and wait for their return in spring.

Some caladiums have been bred to tolerate direct sun, but morning sun is best with shade for the rest of the day. This makes them a perfect addition under the beautiful oaks where sunlight is limited.

Growing caladiums in shade helps the leaves to be more vibrant in color when compared to full sun, too.

Fertilize caladiums with a soluble fertilizer, based on label directions, but be sure you fertilize the soil and avoid the leaves, as the fertilizer can burn the delicate leaves.

Shade gardening with caladiums is a simple and fun way to add color with a dramatic impact to your landscape.

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published April 18, 2018

Gearing up for spring gardening

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It’s time to start your vegetables for spring planting.

January and February are great months to start gardening vegetables.

With the exception of sweet potatoes and okra, most of our vegetables grow best during spring and fall.

Be careful not to overseed to the point that the roots of seedlings grow together. That makes it difficult to remove them for transplanting. (Courtesy of Eden Santiago-Gomez, of the Pasco County Extension Office)

While spring hasn’t sprung just yet, now is a great time to set out veggies like collard and mustard greens, cabbage, and kale. Plants in this family are hardy and tolerant of the cold, while some of the other popular veggies are at risk of freezing.

You can get a jump-start on growing more cold-sensitive vegetables, such as tomatoes and peppers, by germinating them from seed and keeping them indoors or protected outside.

It’s simple to do.

Using a grow/germination tray with cells, egg cartons, or even milk jugs with the top removed, fill the container three-quarters of the way full with a seed starting potting soil, which you can pick up at any garden center or big box store.

Seed your tray or container according to the seed packet instructions, which usually includes adding a small amount of soil over the top of the seeds, and planting at a particular depth and spacing between seeds.

Be careful not to overseed to the point that the roots of seedlings grow together, making it difficult to remove them for transplanting.

You risk damaging sensitive young roots, if you have to separate roots.

If you find there are too many seedlings growing close together, simply thin them out early on.

Sometimes you can successfully separate and move crowded seedlings by carefully teasing the roots apart and replanting. It takes patience and a bit of luck, though.

Fertilizer isn’t necessary at this stage, since there are no roots present to uptake the nutrients.

Wait to fertilize until you have actual seedlings with a root system. Check by carefully tugging on the seedling to check for rooting.

It’s spring gardening time. Unlike most places, Florida has two vegetable gardening seasons: Spring and Fall. (Courtesy of the University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences)

Keep seedlings watered to the point the soil is moist, but not wet to the touch. And, place them outside in a sunny spot, but cover or take them indoors if the temperature is expected to drop below 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

Be sure to remove covers as soon as the sun begins to shine on your trays, or you risk cooking your plants.

Alternatively, you can keep the seedlings in a westward facing window with plenty of light.

After a few days or weeks, depending on the species, you’ll have tiny seedlings that you simply need to keep moist.

At the end of February or in early March, you’ll need only remove the seedlings from their tray and set them out in your garden or your favorite decorative pot. Handle the seedlings carefully and don’t plant them any deeper than they already are in their germination tray.

Fertilize them, according to product directions, and keep the soil moist.

Soon, you’ll have a plentiful harvest, and a month earlier than everyone else.

The Joneses will be so jealous.

By Whitney C. Elmore

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published February 21, 2018

Replanting and restoring trees following Hurricane Irma

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Some of Hurricane Irma’s most affected inhabitants of Florida were trees.

Some trees were snapped. Some twisted out of the ground. Some were left leaning with exposed roots, or were stripped of large limbs and foliage.

The good news is that not all of the damaged trees must be removed.

The test is whether they are a structural hazard or if they have sustained too much damage.

Uprooted trees have a tougher time surviving, but some can. If a tree is a good candidate for replanting, if the root ball is exposed, keep it moist, and replant as quickly as possible. (Courtesy of Whitney C. Elmore)

It’s impossible to make a broad statement that would apply to every single situation.

So, if you have a tree that could damage structures or ones that possibly pose a threat to humans, pets or livestock, consider enlisting the help of a certified arborist to help you make decisions about the best course of action.

You can go to TreesAreGood.com to find certified arborists in your area.

Many species of trees can survive damage, but it’s the younger, smaller trees that have the best chance.

The good news is that in situations where you don’t believe safety is an issue, you may be able to restore some damaged trees back to good health.

Trees that might be restorable include those without exposed roots or ones that have not been lifted from the soil; and ones without cracks in major limbs and certainly not in the trunk.

Trees that were strong and healthy prior to the storm are most likely the best candidates for restoration.

Trees with decay or bark inclusions — weak areas between multiple trunks and stems — are not good candidates for restoration. Even if these weakened trees weren’t visibly affected by Hurricane Irma winds, they are living on borrowed time. Consider consulting an arborist about removal.

Here are some general ways to restore salvageable trees back to good health after a storm:

  • Trees with only small broken branches: Many healthy trees can lose as much as three-quarters of their smaller branches and leaves, and still recover. If broken branches are less than 4 inches in diameter, you can easily prune them off and the plant should bounce back. Prune them sooner, rather than later, to prevent them from falling and causing damage, or decaying and causing potential disease in the tree.
  • Trees with defoliated or damaged leaves: Trees that lose leaves usually will not die. You will likely see new foliage soon, and if not now, by spring.
  • Trees flooded with saltwater should be irrigated with fresh water as soon as possible, to rinse salts beyond the root zone.
  • Trees with large broken limbs: Depending on the tree species, some trees can lose a major limb and regain good health. In general, younger, smaller trees that lose a major branch are more apt to survive than old, large trees. Prune off jagged edges from broken branches using proper pruning practices (call the UF/IFAS Pasco Extension Office for instructions or, for more specific information, visit edis.ifas.ufl.edu/topic_tree_pruning.
  • Trees sitting in water: Some species of trees are capable of withstanding flooding, but only for short periods of time. Trees with flooded roots for more than a few days will most likely not survive with a few notable exceptions, such as: pond/bald cypress, red maple, sweet gum and river birch. Roots need oxygen and flooded roots are smothered roots. It’s best to see if the tree survives the flood then remove it later when it becomes apparent that the tree has not survived. If it doesn’t survive, removal and replanting with a more suitable species for that area might be recommended.

Inspect the canopy of all trees, even if they seem stable. Look for broken, dead and hanging branches that might fall later on. Remove those carefully using proper pruning practices and sanitized equipment. Visit tinyurl.com/mwyusyt for information on proper equipment sanitization.

  • Trees that are leaning: Small trees, with trunks less than 4 inches in diameter, that were recently planted, can be replanted and staked if they fell over because of Hurricane Irma. If the root ball is exposed, keep it moist and replant as soon as possible. Prune off any broken roots; place the tree back in the hole, making sure it’s upright, then backfill the hole with the same soil you removed from that hole. Stake it, adjust the stakes often, and remove them when the tree is stable. Water the root ball, with a hose, at least three times a week for the next couple of months.

Larger diameter trees that are leaning, especially those with exposed roots, will most likely have too much root damage to survive. Trying to reset and stake larger leaning or uprooted trees is not advised.

Be patient, and give damaged trees a year to recover. If the tree does not have new growth by the following spring, most likely it’s not going to survive, and you should consider removal.

Palms are different; they are not built like oaks, maples, crape myrtles, etc. They are actually not considered “trees” at all, since they are more closely related to the grasses and corn. They grow much like grasses. The growing portion of these plants is at the very top at the base of the fronds, in an area called the heart. If you find that the heart has broken out of a palm, that palm should be removed. It will not survive or regrow. If the heart is intact, but you find bent fronds covering the heart, they can be removed so they don’t keep the bud from growing. Broken or hanging fronds can be dangerous and should be removed. If you have hanging fronds, only when they are completely brown, should they be removed. Yellow fronds are still supplying the plant with food, so wait to remove those, until the entire frond is brown.

Properly pruned palms and trees are excellent wind breaks around buildings. They diminish the wind and they take the brunt of the storm force winds. Keep your trees healthy, and remove the dangerous or dead ones before the storm by consulting with a certified arborist, sooner rather than later. Take care your trees and palms before and after the storm, and they’ll take care of you.

By Whitney C. Elmore and Jim Moll

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension Director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III. Jim Moll is Florida-Friendly Landscaping Program Coordinator.

Published September 20, 2017

Conserving water, reducing storm water runoff

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When it rains, it pours.

Or, so it seems in Florida.

Central Florida landscapes can easily get 2 inches to 3 inches of rain in a typical afternoon rainstorm.

And, all of this storm water washes over our roads, roofs, gutters, driveways, lawns and landscapes — carrying plant debris, pesticides, fertilizers and other contaminants into our waterways.

By using rain barrels to capture runoff, you can provide a ready source of water to irrigate your landscape. Using rainwater for irrigation can lower your water costs and prevent rapid runoff — reducing the opportunity for fertilizer, debris, pet wastes and other contaminants to be carried into waterways. (Courtesy of University of Florida/IFAS)

Even oil from cars, trash and pest waste are picked up by storm water and deposited into a body of water.

Our lawns and homes are connected, in one way or another, to some body of water.

Some lawns are directly connected to waterways through runoff flowing into surface waters in retention ponds, lakes, streams, or even eventually reaching the Gulf of Mexico.

Other storm waters take a more indirect route through storm drains along our roadways, which eventually flow into the groundwater below.

Storm water runoff carries pollutants into our drinking water supply below ground in the aquifer.

Since our groundwater is very close to the surface in Florida, how we maintain our homes and landscapes has a direct impact on the quality of our drinking water and the irrigation used on crops.

It also affects the wildlife living in these waters.

And, with Florida’s expanding population, our water pollution increases.

Decisions we make influence the health of our water, both in water bodies and below ground — subsequently affecting our health.

When the right plant is planted in the right place, it can thrive without excessive watering. You can use micro-irrigation to deliver water where it is needed, and use mulch to conserve moisture and reduce weeds.

Nitrogen and phosphorous, which are found in fertilizers, contribute to water pollution by fueling the growth of algae.

Algae growth can deplete water of oxygen, leading to fish kills and “blooms” that can smother natural vegetation.

Invasive weeds can overtake “unhealthy” surface waters due to nutrient pollution, and some pesticides can potentially damage aquatic wildlife.

A healthy, maintained lawn and landscape, on the other hand, can filter storm water, reducing these contaminants.

Here are a few simple guidelines to follow around your home that will help reduce storm water runoff and pollutants.

  • Direct downspouts from gutters into your lawn or landscape so that water can soak into the soil and not run across impervious spaces such as driveways and walkways. That will reduce the pollutants carried into water bodies. This also allows the lawn a chance to filter and absorb some contaminants coming from the roof and some of the landscape debris from the gutters. Dead leaves and twigs are full of nutrients that should be recycled in the landscape and not allowed into waterways as pollutants.
  • When possible, use gravel, mulch, and brick (anything permeable) for walkways and patios. These materials allow rainwater to percolate into the ground, filtering contaminants and reducing runoff from your yard.
  • Use rain barrels (or cisterns) to capture rainwater for use in the landscape. This is an excellent way to recycle water, reduce irrigation and lower your water bill. You can mosquito-proof rain barrels easily, hook up two or more to each other, even connect them to your irrigation system and pretty them up with paint or hide them with foliage. Rain barrels are an easy way to fill watering cans for hand watering, too.
  • Build rain gardens, planted with grasses and other plants tolerant of wet areas, to filter runoff. Rain gardens work best in areas where water tends to collect in the landscape or at the bottom of downspouts. They work great for diverting water from walkways or around houses and they can be basically any shape or size needed to handle the water. They even make nice focal points and attract wildlife.
  • Fertilize plants (including turf) only when they are actively growing. Ensure fertilizer is only going on the intended plant material and not impervious spaces, such as driveways or roads, or into ponds, lakes or other water bodies. Use the guard on the fertilizer spreader.
  • Irrigate only when the plants need water; use a rain shutoff device or soil moisture sensor so you’re only irrigating when it’s necessary. Ensure sprinklers are irrigating plants and not pavement.
  • Don’t blow leaves or lawn clippings into the roadways and storm drains. Plant debris is full of nutrients, which contributes to water pollution. Keep clippings on the lawn — they are full of nitrogen. Compost yard waste such as leaves and small branches.
  • Use pesticides responsibly by only using pesticides when necessary, at the right time, and only based on the label’s directions. Identify the pest before using a pesticide, and start with the lowest toxicity pesticides first. In many cases, a pesticide is not necessary for control of certain pests, so call your local UF/IFAS Extension Office for advice.
  • Consider aerating your lawn if compaction is a problem. When done properly, this helps the turf stay healthy, and relieves compaction making it easier for water to percolate down through the soil and not runoff across the surface.
  • Only allow water down storm drains.

Each of us can save money and reduce storm water runoff by following some of these simple steps.

Rainwater falling today represents our past, our present and our future.

Help protect the environment and your personal health.

For more information about Florida-Friendly Landscaping, rain barrels, fertilization, pesticide use, etc., call the University of Florida/IFAS Pasco Extension Office at (352) 518-0156.

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension Director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published July 26, 2017