The Laker/Lutz News

Serving Pasco since 1981/Serving Lutz since 1964

Whitney C. Elmore

We’re on the lookout for water-wise landscapes

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Pasco County Extension and Tampa Bay Water are looking for yards that demonstrate practices that reduce the waste of water, while still presenting a lovely oasis.
(Courtesy of Whitney C. Elmore)

The Pasco County Extension Office and Tampa Bay Water are looking for attractive landscapes with irrigation systems or techniques that minimize water waste and represent the best in Florida-Friendly Landscaping.

We would love to present your outdoor oasis for relaxation and a haven for wildlife as a powerful environmentally friendly example of Florida-Friendly LandscapingTM.

Florida-Friendly Landscaping is a concept based on the use of low-maintenance plants and environmentally sustainable practices.

  • Using the right plant, in the right place
  • Watering efficiently
  • Fertilizing appropriately
  • Mulching appropriately
  • Attracting wildlife
  • Managing yard pests responsibly
  • Recycling yard waste
  • Reducing stormwater runoff
  • Protecting the waterfront

When planning, establishing, and maintaining a Florida-Friendly Landscape, the appropriate use of each of these principles can produce a beautiful landscape that’s low maintenance, cost efficient and environmentally friendly.

A Florida-Friendly yard is a win for everyone and for the environment, as it helps to conserve and protect our water.

Many Pasco residents already incorporate these practices into their landscapes. Some have done so without expending much time, effort or money.

By using these principles, many Pasco County residents have produced relaxing outdoor spaces — worthy of gracing the front page of a lawn and garden magazine.

When the right plant is planted in the right place, it can thrive without excessive watering. You can use micro-irrigation to deliver water where it is needed, and use mulch to conserve moisture and reduce weeds.
(Courtesy of the University of Florida)

In Pasco County, the UF/IFAS Extension Office has a Florida-Friendly Landscaping Program Manager and Program Coordinator, funded by our partners at Tampa Bay Water.

As part of Tampa Bay Water’s efforts to conserve water, they offer the Water Wise Awards each year to recognize attractive, water-conserving landscapes at homes, businesses, industry and government.

In conjunction with our UF/IFAS Pasco Extension professionals, a winner is selected during landscape evaluations, and that winner is acknowledged with a beautiful, handmade mosaic stepping stone and recognition from the Pasco Board of County Commissioners.

If you would like to submit your landscape for an evaluation, simply go to TampaBayWaterWise.org, and click on the entry link.

The deadline for Water Wise Award applications is June 30, 2017.

It’s quick, simple, and a fun way to recognize the work that you’ve done to create your personal oasis.

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Want to know more about gardening?
Check out these workshops:

                      

#101 Propagation From Seeds
June 3, 10 a.m., Pasco Extension Office 36702 State Road 52, Dade City: Learn how to create an attractive and productive garden at this free workshop. Learn how to successfully germinate seeds. Registration is required. (The same workshop is also being offered June 8 at 2 p.m., at Centennial Park Library, 5740 Moog Road in Holiday).

Bonsai: The Art & Technique
June 6, 6:30 p.m., Hudson Library, 8012 Library Road, Hudson: Free seminar focuses on an introduction to the art of bonsai, a unique combination of horticulture and art. Registration is required.

Colorful Container Gardening
June 10, 9 a.m., Land O’ Lakes Community Center, 5401 Land O Lakes Blvd., Land O’ Lakes: Learn how to plant flowers, foliage and herbs in containers at this free workshop. Registration is required.

Attracting Pollinators to your Garden
June 10, 10 a.m., Zephyrhills Library, 5347 Eighth St., in Zephyrhills: Learn what elements are needed in the home garden to attract butterflies and hummingbirds at this free seminar. Registration is required.

Easy to Grow Native Plants & Their Pollinators
June 20, 2 p.m., New River Library, 34043 State Road 54, Wesley Chapel: Learn about native plants that are easy to grow and find out about these plant’s pollinators, too, at this free workshop. Registration is required.

Registration for workshops can be made through EventBrite. Search under the name of the seminar, it should pop up.

Published May 10, 2017

There’s an art to the proper pruning of palms

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How do you know if you’ve properly pruned your palms?

There are some telltale signs.

A properly pruned, and healthy palm, should have a round canopy and green leaves from the top of the canopy down to the crown.

Unfortunately, too often palms are pruned too much — making them unattractive, unhealthy and weaker than a properly pruned palm.

Palms are not supposed to look like a flat rake or feather-duster.

This spindle palm is suffering from a severe potassium deficiency.
(Courtesy of Timothy K. Broschat, UF/IFAS)

The concept that “hurricane pruning” strengthens palms against strong winds and improves the tree’s health is contrary to research observations.

Palms with a more natural canopy are able to withstand higher winds and have less chance of becoming a structural hazard in a storm when compared to those that have been “hurricane” cut.

Pruning can damage the sensitive growing points, or heart, at the top of the plant, nestled at the base of the leaves.

With repeated over-pruning, palms can develop a tapered appearance just below the leaves, at the heart of the palm, which can become a weak point especially in high winds.

These plants have evolved in locations with a great potential for high wind storm events, so they are built for these conditions.

Palms rely on their leaves for nutrition, so removal of leaves/fronds drains the plant of vital nutrients. Research shows that nutrient-deficient plants have smaller leaves, reduced ability to make food and reduced canopy size. With repeated removal of green leaves, the palms may have smaller and weaker trunk diameters. These factors can lead to weakened and unhealthy plants.

Removal of nutrient deficient (not dead) leaves will eventually starve the plant of nutrients leading to the slow death of the palm.

So, which palms need to be pruned?

Tropical palms with crownshafts, or areas of the plant with bright green, tightly clasped leaf bases just above the trunk, do not need pruning. Many of the tropical palms will self-shed when leaves are dead, so very little pruning is required to maintain these palms. On these palms, old, dead leaves will simply fall off by themselves through a natural process.

However, these plants may sometimes exhibit nutrient deficiencies in older leaves toward the bottom of the plant.

Someone was too enthusiastic when pruning these palms. Too much pruning harms a palm tree’s health.

A leaf that’s deficient in potassium will begin to brown very quickly and can hang on for months. Older leaves show this deficiency first, since their nutrients are being used as they are being sacrificed by the plant to nourish the younger leaves. A deficient leaf doesn’t mean it’s a dead leaf, just one that needs nutrients.

If the leaf stays in its normal position and doesn’t droop or fall down against the trunk, it’s still alive, but this is a sign that the plant needs to be properly fertilized.

Those leaves that drop and hang against the side of the trunk, out of a normal upright position, are dead and can be pulled or pruned away.

Queen palms, various date palms, etc., which do not have crownshafts, frequently will have dead leaves that droop and hang on for months unless they are pruned away.

When pruning, be sure that pruning equipment is properly sanitized between use on different palm plants, as several fatal diseases can be spread from plant to plant by the equipment. A 5-minute soak in a disinfecting solution will help reduce the chance of spreading diseases.

Those palms with skirts made of dead leaves, such as Mexican fan palms, will eventually shed old leaves, but they can become hiding places for undesirable wildlife, such as rodents and snakes, so removal of skirts of dead leaves can sometimes be necessary.

So what, if anything, should be pruned from palms?

Flowers and completely dead leaves can be removed with no problems, but discolored or browning lower leaves should be left alone. They indicate that the plant needs to be properly fertilized.

If you find broken or kinked petioles (the long shafts leading from the leaf to the trunk), it’s acceptable to remove that leaf, especially if you fear it might fall and do damage.

The fruit of some palms can leave a mess at the base of the plant and cause unwanted sprouting. Removal of clusters of fruit is fine.

Some research even suggests that removal of flower and fruit stalks increases leaf production. Just keep in mind that any pruning should be done with sanitized equipment.

When should palms be pruned, if pruning is necessary?

There’s no specific time of the year when it’s better or worse to prune palms.

Only prune completely dead leaves when they appear, and certainly before a storm.

Pruning palms only when necessary will keep them healthier and you happier.

For information on how to properly fertilize palms and sanitize pruning equipment, call your local UF/IFAS Extension Office.

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension Director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published March 29, 2017

Coping with seasonal drought in the landscape

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If you were to take a map of the globe and draw a parallel line to the east and to the west of Florida — worldwide — what would you discover?

You would note that Florida is roughly positioned along the same latitude as Mediterranean-type climates where dry, arid conditions prevail. Logic implies then that our weather should be more like that of Southern California or parts of the Mediterranean; hot and dry.

(Courtesy of University of Florida/IFAS communications)

In a normal year, Florida is especially known for its hot, but very wet summers. Because Florida sits between two large bodies of water, it has the luxury of moist, humid air riding along the sea breezes being pulled in our direction just looking for a piece of land on which to rain.

Florida averages 50 inches of rainfall per year as opposed to Southern California at 15 inches to 20 inches annually.

But, from October to April or May, Florida can be very dry.

That’s a typical dry pattern for us based on our latitude, so even sticky, swampy Florida is meant to dry down. In our landscape, this can pose some issues, but maybe not the ones you’d expect.

Our trees and shrubs, once established, require little to no supplemental irrigation throughout this typically dry period, because they are adapted to this seasonal variation.

There is one caveat, though: These must be the right plants in the right place.

A plant out of place, say a shade-loving plant in partial to full sun, will obviously require more water to survive if it’s going to do so.

Put that shade-loving plant in a shady spot where it’s meant to be, and we prevent stress, thus lowering water needs.

Newly planted shrubs and trees would certainly require more water during the dry season, so that’s why it’s best to hold off on planting until we begin our warmer, wetter season in May maybe even June, so that frequent irrigation won’t be necessary. Let nature do the watering for you.

Turfgrasses, like St. Augustinegrass (‘Floratam’ is an example), are a bit different. St. Augustinegrass will enter a semi-dormant phase in Central Florida due to the shortened day-length of fall and winter. It’s not actively growing, but it’s not totally dormant either, so it does need some water to stay alive.

When it’s dry during the winter, it’s common to see symptoms of drought on this grass. Rolled leaf blades, a bluish-purple cast, or footprints left behind as we walk on the turf are all symptoms of drought and require supplemental irrigation. Conversely, in the summer, if your turf is established and healthy, it’s unlikely you need irrigation at all, as long as we’re getting frequent rainfall like we normally do.

Be aware that too much water could actually cause more harm than good, and certainly wastes valuable water any time of the year.

As we continue through the dry season, monitor your turf for drought stress and irrigate late in the evening to prevent evaporation losses, and use no more than three-quarters of an inch of water per application.

In Pasco County, water restrictions limit homeowners to one irrigation event per week, so make the most of it, and irrigate appropriately.

When asked how much irrigation a homeowner is applying, the most common response is 10 minutes or 15 minutes.

Ten minutes to 15 minutes of irrigation, depending on your irrigation system and the nozzles, might mean that you’re applying 1/10th of an inch to 2 inches or more of water.

The only way to be sure is to calibrate the system, which is easy. Take two tuna cans, or three, and place them in each irrigation zone. Run the zone for a set period of time. Measure the amount of water in the can, and if you’re putting out more or less than the three-quarters of an inch recommended, simply adjust the timing on that zone and retest.

Test each zone. Check for broken or nonfunctional heads. Also, look for heads that are pointing onto pavement, sidewalks and so on, because they are doing nothing more than wasting water and your money.

A simple calibration check every three or four months will prevent a lot of turfgrass woes and save a lot of dough.

Also, remember that your grass is not actively growing through the fall and winter, so fertilizing during the dry season of late fall through early spring is useless, as the plant will not use the fertilizer, and what remains of it is leached into the groundwater leading to senseless pollution. Plus, it’s a waste of money. We don’t want to tell our plants to grow when nature is telling them to rest. There’s a reason they’ve slowed growth or gone dormant, so don’t interfere by overwatering or fertilizing during these times of drought.

If you have questions about helping your landscape cope with seasonal drought, call your local University of Florida/IFAS Extension Office for help. We have Solutions for Your Life.

Dr. Whitney Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension Director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published January 11, 2017

The truth about bromeliads and mosquitoes

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Zika is a concern in Florida and bromeliad plants have been singled out as potential sources of mosquitos that carry this virus.

Bromeliad plants produce a fold of leaves commonly referred to as a “tank” where water will collect.

And, several types of mosquito larvae (the young, non-flying aquatic phase), including larvae of the Aedes family of mosquitoes, which can potentially transmit Zika as flying adults, can be found in these tanks.

A water-filled tank of a bromeliad, in which mosquito immatures stages, including A. albopictus, occur. (Courtesy of Dr. Phil Lounibos)
A water-filled tank of a bromeliad, in which mosquito immatures stages, including A. albopictus, occur. (Courtesy of Dr. Phil Lounibos)

Inevitably, the question arises that if bromeliads can hold water, can they harbor mosquito larvae? Quite simply, the answer is yes. However, anything that holds water can hold mosquito larvae.

Subsequently, the next logical question is: Should bromeliads be removed from the landscape to get rid of aquatic mosquito habitat?

Let’s explore some facts before jumping to answer that question.

First, anything that holds water – even a bottle cap – can be a potential mosquito larvae habitat.

Pet dishes, birdbaths, toys, tires, downspouts, gutters, even other types of plants – anything that holds water can harbor mosquitos.

This is Florida, and water is generally everywhere.

Eliminating all sources of mosquito larvae is difficult, if not impossible around the house, but we can limit much of the problem by emptying standing water and not allowing it to collect in the first place.

In the same vein, eliminating bromeliads from the landscape won’t eliminate all of the mosquitos that can carry Zika.

While you can remove your bromeliads, which will eliminate one place where larvae can live in your yard, you’ll need to remove any other item where water can collect, as well.

If you can’t get rid of all of those places, why remove your bromeliads when there are ways to limit larvae potentially associated with them?

Also, keep in mind that mosquitos, as adults, fly.

So that mosquito that bites you in your yard could have come from quite a distance.

It is possible to keep our much-loved bromeliads and limit larval habitats at the same time.

Simply inspect your bromeliads every three days to seven days and either drain out any standing water with a turkey baster, tip the bromeliad if it’s in a pot, or flush out the tank with water from a hose.

Make sure the water from the tank is flushed into a dry spot so that any potential larvae will dry out and die, and not just be transferred to another body of water. You can also apply Mosquito Bits® every seven days to the bromeliad tanks.

This product is very safe for your plants and the environment – it’s made from a bacterium that specifically kills mosquito larvae. You can purchase these at a reasonable price at many garden centers, or order them online.

Professionals can use Altosid Pro-G, which is an insect growth regulator. This product can be applied to the tanks every 30 days. For both products, which are quite safe and effective, simply follow the label directions.

There are other simple and effective ways of controlling mosquitoes in your home landscape.

Eliminating your bromeliads might reduce the population a bit, but it won’t eliminate them entirely. Exercise good landscape maintenance and take a look around your yard every three days to seven days, and be sure to empty standing water anywhere you see it.

Continue to enjoy your bromeliads, but treat them like the rest of your landscape plants and maintain them properly by simply flushing out the tanks frequently or using a larvae control product.

Water and mosquitoes are part of Florida’s landscape, as are the beautiful bromeliads that grace us with splashes of color and unusual textures.

It’s easy to keep our beloved bromeliads and protect ourselves from mosquitos at the same time.

Dr. Whitney Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension Director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published October 12, 2016

Growing beautiful tomatoes in Central Florida

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Tomatoes are one of the most popular veggies to eat, but trying to grow them can be one of the most frustrating experiences for new gardeners in Central Florida.

Luckily, it doesn’t have to be exasperating, and it can be quite fun.

With just a little bit of knowledge, any home gardener can grow beautiful and bountiful tomatoes.

For successful tomatoes, there are a few simple concepts to keep in mind.

First, remember the one principle that underpins them all for Florida-Friendly Landscaping (and veggie growing, too); plant the right plant in the right place. I normally add one more caveat to that phrase when it comes to veggie gardening: Plant at the right time.

Tomatoes exemplify this principle. Put them in the right place at the right time and you’ll get great tomatoes with little effort.

With Florida’s warm weather, we can plant tomatoes in late winter and early spring – but not in the summer.

In Florida, we can have two crops of tomatoes — not just one.

Try to be patient, and plant them after the threat of frost has passed.

Growing healthy tomatoes in Central Florida is as easy as choosing the right plant and growing it at the right place — and at the right time. (Courtesy of UF/IFAS Tyler Jones )
Growing healthy tomatoes in Central Florida is as easy as choosing the right plant and growing it at the right place — and at the right time.
(Courtesy of UF/IFAS Tyler Jones
)

Remember, you can start seeds indoors and transplant when the soil warms, and you can use hanging baskets and containers. That allows you to move them around for protection if a frost is coming.

Another key concept is to ensure you plant early enough to get fruit before the summer temperatures get high – once the nighttime temperatures hit 80 degrees, your tomatoes are done.

There are some exceptions though like grape and cherry tomatoes, which can often tolerate the summertime temperatures.

Larger-fruited varieties will not endure the high heat and humidity that ushers in pathogens that like our tomatoes as much as we do.

Do a little research on the variety you choose – do they need 70 days to mature? Or do they need 80 days?

Let this info help guide your planting schedule.

For most of Pasco County, planting tomatoes in late February is usually a good bet to avoid frost in the spring. Late September or early October is a good time to plant in the fall to avoid cold damage before fruiting.

Besides planting at the right time, make sure you plant in the right place. Tomatoes need plenty of sunlight, so put them in a sunny location where your garden gets at least 4 hours to 6 hours of full sunlight daily.

And, since tomatoes prefer soil pH to be between 6.0-6.5, a soil test is a great idea before you plant.

Your local UF/IFAS Extension office can help you with a soil test kit.

If you need to adjust your soil with organic matter, be sure you do so well in advance of planting, sometimes months in advance if you’re using manures.

Also, give your tomatoes the space they need. Some tomatoes, called intermediates, become very large plants that easily topple over – these need support and possible pruning.

While they’ll produce fruit over several months, their size can be a limiting factor. Determinate varieties are best for those with limited space – these are more like small bushes. Staking or using a trellis is good for both types though, as it’s important to keep the fruit off the group.

Choose varieties bred for Central Florida’s climate. They’ll be more tolerant of common insect and disease problems.

When you purchase tomatoes, look for the two to three-letter abbreviations on the label.

These abbreviations refer to the more common problems and let you know those plants have some resistance to that particular problem.

For example, if you see “VF” on the label, those cultivars are resistant to verticillium and fusarium wilt, both common problems in Florida.

To care for your tomatoes once they are in the garden, scout early and often for problems. It’s OK to remove a sick looking plant to prevent spreading a potential disease to the others. Catching an insect problem early is much better than later as well – we can control insects and diseases more effectively when they are caught in the earliest stages.

Scouting early and often affords us that opportunity.

Tomatoes do need fertilizer, especially in our nutrient-poor soils.

Since organic matter/compost is not fertilizer but a soil stabilizer, applications of fertilizer are required to produce healthy plants.

Fertilize soon after planting, then on a regular schedule through the growing season using a 6-8-8 or similar formulation. A well-balanced fertilizer doesn’t have to be expensive to be effective. You can use liquids or granulars, just go for a controlled-release version so that you’ll get the most bang for your buck, and you won’t contribute to nutrient pollution in waterways through leaching or runoff during heavy rains.

Keep your plants watered with one inch to two inches of water per application. Soaking them is preferable to frequent light watering. Mulching can help lock in moisture and prevent weeds – just keep the mulch a few inches away from the stems of the plants and no more than 2 inches to 3 inches deep. Planting the right plant in the right place at the right time is all it takes for successful tomatoes in Central Florida.

Dr. Whitney Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension Director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Heirloom seeds preserve heritage, save money

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As the warm-season vegetable garden season draws to a close in Central Florida, there’s still much work to be done in preparation for the next planting season. This is a great time to collect heirloom seeds, which can save money and provide an easily renewable source of your favorite plant varieties.

An heirloom variety is an older cultivar maintained in relatively isolated regions, even one’s own backyard.

Heirlooms aren’t used for wide-scale agriculture production any longer, but they are often quite resistant to pests and weather extremes.

Collecting heirloom seeds from the vegetables you grow in your garden can save money. Heirloom seeds can also be passed from one generation to another, giving you a chance to save seeds and a piece of your heritage at the same time. (Whitney C. Elmore/Photo)
Collecting heirloom seeds from the vegetables you grow in your garden can save money. Heirloom seeds can also be passed from one generation to another, giving you a chance to save seeds and a piece of your heritage at the same time.
(Whitney C. Elmore/Photo)

Heirloom plants harbor lots of genetic diversity, which means they are unlikely to yield consistent colors, size and even flavor, but that doesn’t mean they cannot be flavorful, pretty and highly prized in the home garden. More importantly, heirloom varieties can be nurtured, selected, preserved and handed down from one family member to the next for many generations leaving a link to past heritages.

The goal with heirloom preservation is to ensure all of the cultivar’s genes are transmitted from each generation to the next leaving us with a large gene pool – and lots of variation.

The basics of saving heirloom seeds starts with nurturing every plant into maturity, except for any diseased plants or ones yielding fruit or veggies we don’t like.

We then harvest the fruit, clean the seeds of flesh, dry the seeds, then store the seeds in the hope of germinating those same cultivars the next season or years down the road.

Beans, cowpeas, even tomatoes and peppers make excellent plants for seed preservation. A few considerations: Hybrid plants will not provide seeds bearing the same qualities as the plant from which they came – seedlings from these plants will have some, but not all, of the qualities of the parent plant.

If you are interested in saving seeds, be sure to grow enough plants to get a large seed batch and avoid inbreeding. For corn, you need 100 ears, and for tomatoes, a dozen plants to get enough quality seed to store.

Also, be sure to allow the fruit to mature on the plant before harvesting; be selective when you harvest. Choose only the best of the fruits from the plants which you favor for specific traits. Seeds that collapse when they’ve been dried are not viable. Throw them away. For example, squash, cucumber and melon seeds should be hard and plump when dry, not shriveled.

When you have harvested the seeds, be sure to immediately clean and dry them. For tomatoes, rinse the seeds and wipe them with a rough towel to remove the gel-like fleshy coat which prevents germination. For most any other plant, remove the flesh from the seeds as best you can, then lay them out on newspaper to dry. Any moldy seeds should be discarded. Even a food dehydrator can be useful in drying seeds. But, a warm, sunny spot for a few days will do just fine.

Once the seeds are dry (usually hard, but not brittle), place them in well-marked envelopes (cultivar, date, traits), wrap the envelope in aluminum foil, place them in a sealed plastic storage bag and store them in a refrigerator.

Place small amount of seeds in each envelope just to ensure a bad batch doesn’t ruin the whole bunch.

Before planting stored seeds for the next season, bring them up to room temperature in a closed container on the counter for two days. This will help prevent thermal shock.

Planting seeds in the garden can be great fun and provide quality time with family. Preserving seeds for the next season and years to come can serve as a time capsule of generations past. Consider saving your heirloom seeds — and, at the same time, save a piece of your heritage.

Published June 22, 2016