The Laker/Lutz News

Serving Pasco since 1981/Serving Lutz since 1964

Nicole Pinson

If you enjoy birds, add some natives to your landscape

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If you derive pleasure from watching birds and if you enjoy other wildlife sightings, too, there’s a way to help make that happen right in your yard.

Consider adding native plants to your landscape.

You don’t have to devote your entire yard to natives, although some people do.

Cabbage palms provide many benefits to birds and wildlife. Woodpeckers make homes in the trunks. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

They can be integrated within traditional landscapes.

Interest in native Florida plants is on the rise because they are adapted to our area, provide ecological value and they generally require less water, fertilizer and maintenance once they’re established.

And, they provide cover and food for birds and other wildlife.

Chances are you already have some excellent native plants in your landscape.

In addition to attracting birds, insects and other wild creatures, some natives also provide seasonal color, such as spring blooms, and produce timely holiday berries.

Here are some bird-attracting natives to consider:

• Walter’s Viburnum Viburnum obovatum

Walter’s viburnum is an all-around great landscape plant because it’s attractive to people and wildlife. Its white, bouquet-like flowers cover the plant in spring, and provide nectar and pollen for bees. Later in the fall, songbirds enjoy the red/black berries. Walter’s viburnum grows tall and thick. This feature makes it a good plant for birds to take cover or build their nests. There are dwarf and standard cultivars, so pick the plant that works best for your landscape. Place a birdbath under Walter’s viburnum and you’ll be sure to see visiting songbirds.

• Beautyberry Callicarpa americana

Beautyberry is a shrub and like Walter’s viburnum is valuable to wildlife. The pink flowers attract pollinators and other insects. Purple berries form later in the year and offer a buffet for birds. Mockingbirds especially enjoy them. If you happen to have quail in your neighborhood, they also like beautyberries. The purple berries persist on the branches from late summer through fall, making this a specimen plant. However, beautyberry is deciduous and sheds its leaves in winter.

Invite charismatic mockingbirds to your landscape with native plants such as beautyberry.

If adding it to your garden, you may want to place it behind other plants or toward the back of the garden.

• Buttonbush Cephalanthus occidentalis

If you live near water, consider planting a buttonbush nearby. The unusual-looking, spiky white flowers bloom during summer, and provide nectar and pollen for bees and butterflies. Waterfowl eat the fall seeds. This large shrub is a favorite place for birds to take cover and build nests.

• Sabal palm Sabal palmetto

Do you have a sabal palm – also known as a cabbage palm – in your landscape or neighborhood? If so, this is great for attracting birds. Sabal palms, our state “tree,” produce flowers and fruits attractive to insects and birds. The boots on the trunk can provide habitat for wildlife. The palm fronds and canopy are great places for birds to rest or hide. Some cavity nesters also build their nests in the holes in palms. For example, woodpeckers use old cabbage palm trunks to make their nests.

• Spanish moss Tillandsia usneoides

Contrary to belief, Spanish moss is not harmful to trees – it is a harmless epiphyte. Epiphytes are not parasitic plants. They attach to plants for support but do not harm the plant or tree. You may have some Spanish moss on oak branches, elms, or other plants. The moss provides protective cover for some animals, such as butterflies and insects. Birds feed on the insects found in the moss and some birds use the moss to build their nests. These Spanish moss nests help protect the birds’ eggs and young.

• Simpson’s stopper, Myrcianthes fragrans, has fragrant leaves and white flowers. After flowering, red fruits develop. These fruits are especially attractive to birds. Simpson’s stopper may be substituted for foundation plantings and makes an attractive hedge.

• Wild coffee, Psychotria nervosa, a shrub with shiny, dark green leaves. It produces clusters of tiny white flowers that attract bees and butterflies. Later, birds enjoy the red or maroon fruits.

• Southern red cedar, Juniperus virginians, is a  thick cone-bearing tree with dense foliage. It makes an excellent hedge or when planted for privacy. Southern red cedars have male and female cones borne on separate trees. Birds eat the blue female, berry-like cones.

• Florida privet Forestiera segregate is less common in traditional landscapes. This shrub provides nectar and pollen for bees and butterflies, nesting habitat for birds, and purple fruit in summer. Look for it at native nurseries.

• Coral honeysuckle, Lonicera sempervirens, attracts butterflies and hummingbirds. They later produce red fruits that songbirds eat. This vine can be grown easily on trellises, stakes and arbors.

Attract songbirds, such as cardinals, to your garden by making sure your landscape provides food, cover and water.

Other great choices for hummingbird plants include crossvine Bignonia capreolata, scarlet sage Salvia coccinea, and firebush Hamelia patens. The red, tubular-shaped firebush flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds. Songbirds eat its fruit.

There are other ways to attract birds, too. For example, increase the diversity of plants in your garden to attract insects. Plant diversity is one of the easiest and most economical forms of integrated pest management. Insects visiting these plants are a food source for birds.

Limit pesticide use and choose less-toxic methods when possible. Contact your county Extension office if you need help with recommendations, including “soft” pesticides, rotating pesticides, and natural methods of pest control.

Choose plants that bloom at different times of the year. Select a mix of plants that provide food and cover year-round.

Place a clean water source nearby, such as a birdbath. Fill it with fresh water, especially during hot days.

Once you’ve created a welcoming place for birds and wildlife, don’t forget to relax, sit back and enjoy the creatures that venture in for a visit to your yard.

For more information
If you want to know more about this topic, check the references that were used in this column:

Ober, H.K. and G.W. Knox. (2019). Native Plants That Benefit Native Wildlife in the Florida Panhandle. IFAS Publication Number WEC339. Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved from https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdf/UW/UW38400.pdf

Wilson, S. et al. (2020). Recommended Native Landscape Plants for Florida’s Treasure Coast.IFAS Publication Number ENH1082. Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved from https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdf/EP/EP34800.pdf

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County. For additional information, contact  or 813-744-5519, ext. 54145.

By Published December 01, 2021

Milkweed bugs: Are they friend or foe?

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County Extension offices frequently hear from home gardeners who have questions about tropical milkweed plants and milkweed bugs.

Native milkweeds are less prone to pests. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson, University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences)

Tropical milkweed plants are a non-native landscape favorite because they serve as a host plant for monarch and queen butterfly larvae. They are easy to grow and often are found in children’s butterfly gardens.

Tropical milkweed’s colorful red and orange flowers – along with its long growing and blooming season – make this a great plant for beginner gardeners.

While the plant — Asclepias currasavica — is popular, milkweed bugs are often found on it.

Milkweed bugs are orange and black, and they are considered a nuisance pest of tropical milkweed. Sometimes milkweed bugs are mistaken for a beneficial insect called the milkweed assassin bug.

When milkweed bugs infest tropical milkweed, gardeners can be unsure about what to do. Should they treat the bugs – which could harm butterflies and beneficial organisms – or leave them alone?

Handpick milkweed bugs
Cutting off the tops of plants won’t eliminate these insects, as they may come back. But handpicking them off the plant is an effective way to control them and handpicking doesn’t involve the use of pesticides.

Milkweed bugs are considered a nuisance, but they usually do not kill tropical milkweed plants.

If you’re not squeamish, you can handpick— knocking them into a bowl of soapy water. Leave them there for a little while. Then pour out the water and dead bugs.

Remove the seed pods
Interestingly, although milkweed bugs can feed on plants, they primarily feed on milkweed seed pods. Remove seed pods if you have them. This is an easy way to help control milkweed bug populations.

Knock them off with a jet of water
Another strategy for dealing with milkweed bugs is to knock the bugs off the plants with a strong spray of water from the garden hose. You might need to do this for several mornings in a row to get some control and then check back every two or three days after that. It is a pesticide-free way to reduce pests.

Leave the pests alone
Though it’s distressing to see them on the milkweed, they are harmless.

Milkweed bugs and aphids infest tropical milkweed in stages. Sometimes, there are a lot of them. Other times, they’re gone.

Many butterfly gardeners simply ignore the milkweed bugs and aphids – knowing their populations are cyclical and they usually don’t kill the plant. These gardeners tolerate some plant damage in exchange for not using pesticides on plants preferred by butterflies and other beneficial insects.

Tropical milkweed Asclepias currasavica is grown to attract monarch and queen butterflies. But some pests – such as milkweed bugs and aphids – infest the plants from time to time.

If you don’t want to remove them, just let them be. In time, they will move on. However, they may be repeat visitors to your milkweed plants.

Plant native milkweeds
Our native milkweeds typically have less pest problems. Consider planting native milkweeds in your landscape. These plants have pink to white flowers. Learn more about native milkweeds and visit a local native plant nursery, check out the Florida Museum of Natural History butterfly brochures or contact your local Extension office.

Another benefit of native milkweeds is they die back naturally in the winter here in Florida. This natural dieback may result in less parasites that can infect monarch larvae. However, you can simulate this with tropical milkweed by cutting them back in winter, on or around Thanksgiving.

These references, which were used for this column, offer additional details:

University of Florida. Florida Museum of Natural History Butterfly Brochures. Retrieved from https://www.floridamuseum.ufl.edu/discover-butterflies/brochures/.

University of Georgia. Bugwood website. Milkweed bug insect images. Retrieved from https://www.insectimages.org/search/action.cfm?q=milkweed+bug.

For more information, contact or 813-744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County. Laura Barber and Jan Ignash, master gardener volunteers contributed to this column.

Published September 15, 2021

Be careful — that ‘pest’ could actually be beneficial

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It’s easy to misidentify insects, plants, structures or conditions and view them as harmful, when in fact, they are helpful, or completely harmless.

Making the distinction in the landscape regarding what is what, is important — because you don’t want to mistake a beneficial insect or harmless condition for a pest, disease or deficiency.

It’s important to know, too, that insects can look very different, at different stages of their life cycles. For example, the beneficial lacewing larvae look nothing like its egg or adult lacewing stage.

The vast majority of insects fall into the categories of harmless or helpful, with  only about 1% considered to be pests.

Insects may have different appearances throughout their life cycle. This spined soldier bug may be mistaken for a pest, but it’s a beneficial stink bug. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

At the University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Cooperative Extension Service, we use integrated pest management (IPM) approach strategies. Our goal is to protect beneficial insects, consider the overall landscape and causes of plant problems, and reduce risks to humans and the environment.

Mistaken Identity #1: Stink bugs
Many stink bugs are pests of ornamental plants and vegetables, including tomatoes. But some are beneficial. The spined soldier bug and the giant strong-nose stink bug eat pests such as flea beetles and vegetable caterpillars. If you’d like to learn more about stink bugs, the “Ask IFAS” website has excellent publications including one about stink bugs and leaffooted bugs.

Mistaken Identity #2: Syrphid fly
We often underappreciate flies, including syrphid flies. Syrphid flies, also known as hover flies, are important beneficial insects. They are flies – not wasps – and they don’t sting. Adult syrphid flies feed on flower nectar and are instrumental in cross-pollinating some plants. Their larvae – which don’t look like the adult flies – appear as small slugs or caterpillars. However, these ugly-looking larvae eat aphids and other pests. The UF/IFAS Featured Creatures website explains that syrphid fly larvae may reduce aphid populations by 70% to 100%.

Black soldier fly larvae are important decomposers. Don’t be alarmed if you find them in your compost pile.

Mistaken Identity #3: Black soldier fly
Black soldier fly larvae are important decomposers. Home gardeners may find them in their compost piles or soil. They look like black maggots, but don’t be worried. These larvae help recycle waste. They turn compost into nutrient-rich soil.

If you find them in your compost pile, don’t be alarmed. Be glad. Appreciate their efforts to transform your compost into rich soil.

Read more about black soldier flies and how they’re used in animal manure management on the Featured Creatures website, https://entnemdept.ufl.edu/creatures/livestock/black_soldier_fly.htm.

Mistaken Identity #4: Flared roots on a palm
Some palms may develop a trunk that curls up from the bottom – out and over the roots. Although this may look like a disorder, it’s a natural part of the palm’s growth. As the palm roots grow at the root initiation zone, they may force the trunk outward. This is not a problem and control isn’t necessary.

Mistaken Identity #5: Lenticels
Lenticels are naturally occurring structures found on the stems and roots of some plants. They may be mistaken for scale insects or diseases. These pores are vertical or horizontal, appear as spots, or have rounded, oval or elongated shapes. Lenticels provide a means of gas exchange between the air and plant tissue. Not all plants and trees have them. You can look for them on ligustrum. The UF/IFAS publication, “How to Identify a Tree,” discusses lenticels and other features you may use for tree ID.

If you’d like to learn more about preserving beneficial bugs and helping your landscape to thrive, check the UF/IFAS Extension free online publications and feel free to consult with staff at your local county Extension office, at https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/find-your-local-office/.

For additional information in Hillsborough County, contact or 813-744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published July 21, 2021

Dispelling common garden myths

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One of the best things about gardening is the opportunity it presents to learn new things.

We gain garden wisdom through trial and error, experimenting with plants and techniques, and solving problems.

Each of us has our way of gardening.

But some anecdotal advice is not the best approach to keep plants healthy.

Here are some common garden myths and why we should avoid them.

• Myth No. 1 – Add lime when planting vegetables.

Many Florida soils are naturally acidic – although soils can be alkaline with a high pH. Soil pH may be high in some compost blends and fill material. Well or irrigation water also can have a high pH. It’s important to know the pH because plants grow best within a pH of 5.5 – 7.0. It’s within this range that most nutrients are available to plants.

A better approach: Instead of adding lime before planting vegetables, get the soil pH tested from a Florida lab.

Lime increases soil pH, and it is very difficult to reverse the effects of over-liming.

Don’t add lime without a soil test. If your soil comes back high in pH, other options include: Choose a different type of soil (for example, bagged vs. bulk), plant in another location that has a preferred pH, use raised beds, or select plants that will tolerate the current soil pH.

Insecticidal soaps, rather than dish soaps, are labeled for use on soft-bodied pests, such as these mealybugs. (Nicole Pinson)

• Myth No. 2 – Make homemade pest control with dish soap.

There are many homemade recipes available online and through word-of-mouth. Dish soap is commonly touted as an ingredient for inexpensive, home remedies. However, most dish soaps are not registered or labeled as insecticides. Dr. Adam Dale and Matthew Borden, UF/IFAS, have a helpful publication called Managing Plant Pests with Soaps. In this publication, they explain that “all soaps are not the same” and dish soaps are “not an organic alternative to pesticides.”

Dish soaps are often powerful detergents used for cleaning and degreasing. These detergents are not intended for use on plants or for pest control. Dish soaps can damage plants and do not discriminate between beneficial insects and pest insects. Some of the recipes lack information about application rates, targeted pests, and other considerations, such as not applying to stressed plants or when temperatures exceed 90° F.

A better approach: Instead of using homemade dish soap recipes for pest control, use labeled insecticidal soaps. These products are affordable – like the homemade recipes – and available at garden centers and landscape supply companies. The label explains application rates and they are generally safe for use on plants, when used according to the label. Insecticidal soaps – not dish soaps – are effective on a range of pests with soft bodies. These pests include aphids, mealybugs, scales, spider mites, thrips and whiteflies. Read and share the above-referenced publication for more information.

• Myth No. 3 – Plant tomatoes in the summer.

Our hot summers are not the best time to plant tomatoes. Cooler months are better for Florida tomatoes.

A better approach: Plant tomatoes in Central Florida from January through February and then again from August through September. Want to learn the best time to plant other vegetables in Florida? Use the UF/IFAS Florida Vegetable Gardening Guide, Table 1, for a list of planting times.

• Myth No. 4 – Paint tree wounds.

In the past, it was standard practice to paint tree wounds or freshly cut surfaces. The idea was that by painting the wounds, the tree would be protected from cracking and wood-rotting organisms. However, tree studies have shown that wound dressings do not prevent decay. The painted surface may still crack when exposed to the sun, and moisture can build up between the wood and the wound covering. Trees with painted wounds may even invite wood-rotting pests compared to trees without painted wounds.

A better approach: Leave the cut surface alone. There is no need to apply paints, wound dressings, or chemical formulations to the surface of the cut because they don’t prevent decay.

Keep palms healthy: Use recommended fertilizers and don’t over-prune.

• Myth No. 5 – Hurricane prune palms.

In general, palms rarely need pruning. The idea of hurricane pruning is to remove most of the fronds to make the palm more resistant to wind damage. However, palm observations have shown the opposite is true!

Many hurricane-pruned palms fared much worse after hurricanes – they were weaker and suffered more damage – than palms that had not been hurricane-pruned. Additionally, over-pruning may attract pests, such as palmetto weevils. Too much pruning can make nutrient deficiencies worse. Over-pruning may stress the palm, making it less able to withstand disease.

A better approach: Take good care of your palms by not over-pruning them. Only prune dead or dangerous fronds. Don’t “hurricane” prune or trim them into pineapple shapes.

• Myth No. 6 – Use Epsom salts on palms.

Epsom salts have been recommended as an inexpensive palm fertilizer. However, the nutrients contained in Epsom salts are quick-release, water-soluble magnesium sulfate. And, the use of quick-release fertilizers can harm palms.

A better approach: Research by UF/IFAS indicates slow-release nutrients are better for palms. A good palm fertilizer is the 8N-2P2 O5 – 12K2O +4Mg, with micronutrients and prilled kieserite (a less water-soluble form of magnesium sulfate than Epsom salts). This fertilizer also is called the “palm special” fertilizer. Garden centers, local nurseries, and professional landscape supply companies may carry this fertilizer. Check the label to verify that 100% of the N, K and Mg are in a slow-release form. Use the “palm special” fertilizer and not Epsom salts.

To find out more, check these references that were used for this column.

References: Borden, M. A. and A. G. Dale. (2019). Managing Plant Pests with Soaps. IFAS Publication Number ENY344. Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved from https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdf/IN/IN124800.pdf.

Broschat, T. (2017). Fertilization of Field-Grown and Landscape Palms in Florida. IFAS Publication Number ENH1009. Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved from https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdf/EP/EP26100.pdf.

Park Brown, S., D. Treadwell, J. M. Stephens, and S. Webb. (2020). Florida Vegetable Gardening Guide. IFAS Publication Number SP 103. Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved from https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdf/VH/VH02100.pdf.

For additional information, contact or 813-744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published June 30, 2021

Celebrating pollinators

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Pollinators play such an important role that there’s a week set aside to put them in the spotlight.

National Pollinator Week is set for June 21 to June 27, this year.

Pollinators help with fruit, seed, nut and vegetable production for many of the foods we eat.

Be careful when using pesticides near blooming plants such as pentas and beggarticks. Nearby flowering weeds attract bees and pollinators, too. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

More than 50 major crops in the United States and 13 crops in Florida are honey bee-dependent or produce greater yields because of honey bees, according to research by Delaplane and Mayer, done in 2000.

Pollinators ensure the survivability of native plant species, some of which are dependent on very specific pollinators. As the pollinators move from plant to plant, they transfer pollen from the male to the female flowers through this process of pollination. They also collect nectar from flowers and extrafloral nectaries. Extrafloral nectaries are nectar-producing glands physically apart from the flower and located on some plants.

Honey bees are some of the most well-known pollinators. But did you know pollinators include hummingbirds, ants, flies, beetles, butterflies and native bees?

Florida has more than 300 species of wild bees. Sweat bees and leafcutter bees are two of my favorites.

Pollinators are very important.

As parents, grandparents, gardeners and citizens, there are many things you can do to help pollinators.

Increase the diversity of plants in your garden to attract beneficial insects and pollinators such as bees. Remember: Plant diversity is one of the easiest and most economical forms of integrated pest management.

Also, did you know some native bees, including those that pollinate squash and pumpkin, make their nests below the soil? Be sure to reserve areas in your landscape for these native bees. Leave patches of bare, sunny soil and don’t use weed fabric or mulch. Avoid major tilling or soil disturbance to encourage these ground-nesters.

Choose plants that bloom at different times of the year. Flowering plants that provide nectar and pollen will attract pollinators. These plants deliver important nutrition if they bloom during winter and early spring.

Have a clean water source nearby. Fill it with fresh water, especially during hot days. When it’s been very dry and without much rain, I have seen a bee land on the rim of my shallow birdbath for a drink of water. I’ve seen lizards drinking out of the birdbath, too.

Select native plants such as rosinweed Silphium asteriscus, beautyberry Callicarpa americana, patridge pea Chamaecrista fasciculata, Walter’s viburnum Viburnum obovatum and cabbage palms Sabal palmetto. Bees and beneficial insects love these flowers.

Bees are especially attracted to white, yellow and purple flowers. They also like flowers they can get their short proboscises inside. Other pollinators – such as butterflies, moths and hummingbirds – go for the orange, pink and red flowers, and flowers with more complex or tubular shapes.

Limit pesticide use and choose less-toxic methods when possible. Contact your county extension office if you need help with recommendations, including “soft” pesticides, rotating pesticides and natural methods of pest control.

If using pesticides:

  • Spray as close to the pest as possible. This may seem like common sense, but spot treating can be effective, while reducing risks to non-target organisms.
  • Limit drift by careful application, and don’t spray on windy days.
  • Avoid spraying flowers directly, or wait for flowers to drop.

Bees visit flowers for nectar and pollen. To minimize the risk of pesticide exposure to pollinators, don’t spray pesticides on flowers.

Honey bees are less active in late evening and early morning. For example, honey bees are most active during the day between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m., and when temperatures are above 55 degrees to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. This timeframe extends through the longer days of summer.

Always check the area for bees – and look for flowering plants – before spraying. Even some weeds – such as beggarticks (commonly called Spanish needles) Bidens alba and fleabane Erigeron quercifolius – attract bees. You’ll want to avoid spraying near these weeds if they have flowers and bees are foraging. Or, remove the weeds before application.

Spraying pesticides and fungicides in the morning, late evening or even at night reduces bee exposure because bees are more likely to be at their hive rather than foraging. Spraying in the evening also gives the pesticide time to dry overnight before bees are active the next day.

Use pesticides safely. Read and follow directions on the manufacturer’s label. Pay special attention to the “Environmental Hazards” section of the label. This also applies to organic pesticides.

Remember, pesticides are one pest control strategy and should be used only when needed. In some cases, they may not be necessary. Or, a pesticide could be substituted with one that is less toxic or in a different formulation (for example, granular vs. dust or spray).

Other considerations include irrigation, fertilization, variety or cultivar selection, mowing/pruning and site conditions. Including these aspects in your approach may reduce pest pressures.

Always check plants for insects other than pests because you may find beneficial insects. These beneficial insects kill pests. If you don’t find live pest populations, a beneficial insect may have already provided you with pest control.

Some insects look alike. For example, beneficial ladybeetle larvae may resemble a pest mealybug. Don’t be too quick to treat if you’re unsure. Your county extension office can help with insect ID.

For kids, check out the 2021 Pollinator Week Toolkit for youth activities, games and puzzles available at https://www.pollinator.org/pollinator.org/assets/generalFiles/2021-Pollinator-Week-Toolkit.pdf.

If you enjoy cooking, check out the free – and beautiful – pollinator-friendly cookbook available on the Pollinator.org website. Here, you can learn about pollinator facts and “create culinary masterpieces that honor pollinators.”

Information for this column and additional details can be found in these references: Mallinger, R.E., W. Hobbs, A. Yasalonis, and G. Knox. (2019). Attracting Native Bees to Your Florida Landscape. IFAS Publication Number ENY2042. Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved from https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/IN1255.

Ellis, J.D. et al. (2020). Minimizing Honey Bee Exposure to Pesticides. IFAS Publication Number ENY-162. Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved from https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/IN1027.

For additional information, contact or 813-744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published June 02, 2021

Protecting your turf

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Homeowners often contact the Extension office with questions about their lawn. Here are some examples:

  • “My lawn has bare patches. What’s wrong with it?”
  • “When do I fertilize my lawn and how often?”
  • “How can I tell if the problem is disease or pests?”

The University of Florida/IFAS Extension has free online publications and local county Extension offices that can help you solve lawn problems.

Check this site to find your local county Extension office: SFYL.ifas.ufl.edu/find-your-local-office/.

If you’d like to do your own research, a good rule of thumb is to type the topic you want to learn more about in your computer’s web browser and the letters “UF” after it.

Turf problems may be caused by insects, such as mole crickets, irrigation or disease. When treating turf problems, it’s important to match the control to the cause. (Courtesy of the University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences)

For example, to learn more about St. Augustinegrass, type St. Augustinegrass + UF to get a list of free publications and online resources. Try it!

When it comes to addressing lawn problems, you first need to know what type of grass that you have. Is it St. Augustinegrass, bahiagrass, zoysiagrass or Bermudagrass?

Next, you need to identify when symptoms first appeared?

Next, you need to consider: Were there any recent construction projects? New soil brought in? Pressure-washing or cleaning?

Those activities can cause sudden changes in turf/symptoms.

And, whether you maintain your lawn yourself, or you employ a lawn maintenance company, you need to know when pesticides, herbicides and/or fertilizers are applied, and the types of products used. These practices affect the lawn.

Turf maintenance plans make up part of the story, and it’s easier to solve problems and be an informed consumer if you have information about what products are applied and when they are applied.

St. Augustinegrass is the most common lawn here.

There are different cultivars of St. Augustinegrass, such as ‘Floratam,’ ‘Palmetto,’ and ‘Seville.’

It can be helpful to know the cultivar because some are better adapted for shade or have lower mowing heights.

If replacing parts of your lawn with new pieces of turf, try to match the cultivar to what you already have in your lawn.

Bare patches in St. Augustinegrass may be caused by insects, irrigation problems, large patch (cool weather), or take-all root rot (warm weather).

Beginning in April, start watching for signs of lawn pests. If you see bare patches in the lawn, it’s important to figure out the cause because if it’s a fungus, and the grass is treated for insects, the problem won’t be corrected since the control doesn’t match the cause.

Let’s say you suspect mole crickets or chinch bugs.

If you’re up for an experiment, there is an easy way to find them. (If you don’t find them, it may be a fungus.)

To look for insects, you can do an inexpensive and quick soap flush. If you do the soap flush over several areas of your yard, you should see the insects scurrying around after a few minutes. This YouTube video (1:59) explains how to do a soap flush: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sx_o4EMXsCo. Contact your Extension office for help with insect ID.

This technique is also a way to double-check what others suggest may be the cause. For fungal/disease problems, match the disease with the recommended fungicide.

And, don’t mistake irrigation problems with a pest infestation.

One of the easiest things you can do to take care of grass is to mow it at the right height and frequency, so as not to remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade at any time. Mowing too short can stress the grass. See Table 1 for the suggested mowing heights for Florida lawns.

Leave the clippings on the lawn because they provide nutrients and improve organic matter. They also provide free fertilizer. The nitrogen in grass clippings can replace one fertilizer application each year.

There’s another important practice to be aware of before summer rains: turn off or reduce your irrigation system if we get plenty of rain. This is one of the main causes of turf disease problems, such as take-all root rot, in the summer. This disease occurs when we start getting plenty of rain and we don’t adjust the irrigation system.

Grass needs ½-inch to ¾-inch water per irrigation event. If we get equal to or more than ½-inch to ¾-inch of rainfall, on top of irrigating the lawn one or two times per week, we put down too much water and create an environment for disease.

These disease problems can be hard to treat, sometimes requiring a year or more, and may result in costly replacement of dead turf and annual fungicide applications. Symptoms usually show up months after the summer rainy period, and at that point, they are very difficult to control. To avoid this problem, place an inexpensive rain gauge in your yard. Note the amount of rainfall received. Adjust your irrigation system if we get plenty of rain in a week. This simple strategy can significantly improve the health of your turfgrass and reduce disease potential.

Other tips for taking care of turf:

  • Treat weeds and fertilize separately. Avoid using a weed-and-feed product.
  • Remember, all Florida turfgrasses are dormant in winter. Resist the urge to fertilize in the winter when the grass is dormant. Not fertilizing in winter may improve turf quality the following year.
  • Fertilize the lawn with a slow-release fertilizer. A good example is 15-0-15 with slow-release nitrogen, written as a percent on the back of the bag or the label. You want the first number on the bag (nitrogen) to be a 1:1 or 1:2 ratio with the last number on the bag (potassium). Potassium is a very important nutrient to keep grass healthy and to maintain its ability to withstand stress and disease.

A fertilizer with little or no phosphorous is OK, unless you have a soil test showing your soil is deficient in phosphorous.

  • Fertilize your grass a few times per year. See each of these publications for information on yearly care and when to fertilize. Follow local ordinances where they apply.

St. Augustinegrass: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/LH/LH01000.pdf

Bahiagrass: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/LH/LH00600.pdf

Zoysiagrass: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/LH/LH01100.pdf

Bermudagrass: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/LH/LH00700.pdf

For more information, check these references:

UF/IFAS Gardening Solutions Lawns Topic Page: https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/lawns/

Central Florida Gardening Calendar: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/EP/EP45000.pdf

For additional questions, email , or call (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Optimal mowing heights for Florida lawns:
Bahiagrass: 3 inches to 4 inches
Bermudagrass: ½-inch to 1.5 inches
Centipedegrass: 1.5 inches to 2 inches
St. Augustinegrass: 2.5 inches to 4 inches
Zosiagrass (course types): 2 inches to 2.5 inches
Source: University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County. Jan Ignash, UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County Master Gardener Volunteer, contributed to this column.

Published April 07, 2021

Winter and monarch butterflies

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Monarch butterflies are a welcome garden visitor, and they bring joy to any butterfly gardener. People who have experienced raising butterflies, have watched them go through their metamorphosis.

For those who haven’t seen this, monarchs — like other butterflies — go through a complete metamorphosis. They change shape from an egg, to a larva, then a pupa – also called a chrysalis, and then emerge as an adult butterfly.

You may help prevent the spread of Ophryocystis elektroscirrha (OE), a harmful parasite, by cutting back tropical milkweed plants during winter. When OE infects monarch caterpillars, it may cause them to turn a dark color, lose their shape, live shorter lives, and emerge from a chrysalis malformed or unhealthy. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

To successfully raise butterflies, home gardeners must have nectar and host plants.

Nectar plants are flowering plants that provide nectar for the adult butterflies. Examples  include pentas, rosinweed, jatropha and plumbago, to name a few.

Planting lots of different flowering plants, with many colors and staggered bloom times, helps attract different butterfly species.

Host plants are specific for each type of butterfly you want to attract.

The host plant is where the adult female butterfly lays eggs. The caterpillars hatch from the egg and eat the leaves, sometimes the stem and flowers, too, of the host plants. You should expect some leaf damage because this is normal as the butterfly larvae eat the leaves of their host plant.

Host plants include milkweed, pipevine, passion flower, plumbago and parsley.

Having a combination of host and nectar plants in your garden will encourage butterflies to stay there throughout the year.

Milkweed is one of the most common host plants home gardeners use to attract monarch butterflies. Milkweeds may be native or non-native. There is increased effort by butterfly organizations and the University of Florida/IFAS to encourage gardeners to plant more native milkweed.

Native milkweeds, which can be found at your local native plant nurseries, include white swamp milkweed (Asclepias perennis), pinewoods milkweed (Asclepias humistrata) and pink swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata).

Some milkweeds grow best in certain types of landscapes. Talk with the nursery to select the milkweeds that would grow best in your location.

A growing concern centers on tropical milkweed (Asclepias curassavica). Tropical milkweed continues to grow and flower throughout the winter, whereas our native milkweeds generally die back to the ground. Tropical milkweed is not native to Florida or the United States, and it blooms and flowers all year – attracting monarchs to lay eggs when they ordinarily would not.

Monarch butterflies are a welcome visitor to home gardens.

But, home gardeners love tropical milkweed, and it is an important plant for nurseries and consumer horticulture. Tropical milkweed is easy to grow, especially for children, and has bright, attractive flowers.

Recognizing this appreciation for tropical milkweed, the current recommendation is to cut tropical milkweed plants back through winter. As a rule of thumb, around Thanksgiving is a good time to cut back your tropical milkweed. Cut it back to the ground, or to about 6 inches from the ground, and repeat as needed.

Cutting back the tropical milkweed plants mimics the natural tendency of our native milkweeds to die back in the winter. This practice prevents monarchs from laying more eggs through the winter.

Another concern is the threat of a parasite that affects monarchs called Ophryocystis elektroscirrha, or OE for short. OE is a protozoan that spreads by spores. When OE infects monarch caterpillars, it may cause them to turn a dark color, lose their shape, live shorter lives, and emerge from a chrysalis malformed or unhealthy.

For those who have raised monarch caterpillars indoors, you may have seen this happen. When OE infects a group of caterpillars, it’s very disheartening to a butterfly gardener.

Ways to prevent OE when raising monarchs indoors are to step up the cleanliness and avoid overcrowding too many caterpillars in an enclosure. Cutting back tropical milkweed in the winter is another way to reduce the spread of OE spores to monarch eggs and caterpillars.

Fortunately, there’s space for tropical milkweed and native milkweeds in home and school gardens.

Continue to experiment with native milkweeds and enjoy the monarch butterflies that visit your garden. If you have kids, grandkids or students, talk with them about this process.

Don’t forget to cut back your tropical milkweed through the winter to reduce the threat of OE and to promote monarch health.

Also, consider joining a citizen science initiative or participating in the Florida Museum of Natural History’s Wings Over Florida program, where you may earn fun certificates for identifying butterfly species at https://floridabirdingtrail.com/wings-over-florida-butterflies/.

Here are some more helpful links:

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/IN/IN78000.pdf

https://monarchjointventure.org/images/uploads/documents/Oe_fact_sheet.pdf

https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/design/types-of-gardens/butterfly-gardens.html

https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/ornamentals/milkweed.html

https://www.floridamuseum.ufl.edu/discover-butterflies/brochures/

Nicole Pinson is the urban horticulture agent in Hillsborough County. Contact her at or at 813-744-5519 X 54145.

Published January 06, 2021

Surprises in the garden, during COVID-19

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Although this year has been “unprecedented,” I have appreciated the extra time I’ve spent in my yard.

These cloudy-looking drops are insect eggs laid on the underside of a beautyberry leaf. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson, UF/IFAS)

With a less-crowded calendar, fewer people to visit, and a safer-at-home approach, the garden has provided a welcome respite, and a place for learning.

I suppose many of you are in this situation, too.

Allow me to encourage you to enjoy your garden. And, if you don’t have a garden, consider planting a few flowers or container plants — to give you something to grow and take care of over time.

Over time, the eggs turned orange, with a red stripe along the top.

Wander.

Look around.

Notice what’s normal.

Notice what’s not normal.

Scout for things.

Touch plants.

Flip leaves.

This summer, I noticed these two small eggs on my beautyberry bush. The eggs caught my eye because I had not seen them before. They looked like small, triangular drops of cloudy glue. I knew beautyberry, being a Florida native plant, was virtually pest and disease free. I was curious about what laid these eggs and what they would turn out to be.

Leaf-footed bugs are considered plant pests rather than beneficial insects.

Every day, I looked for these eggs. My intention was to monitor them to learn what they would become. As a butterfly gardener, I have watched insects grow and develop. I knew the eggs would likely change color as they matured. I also knew something might eat them the longer they stayed on the leaves.

I made a plan to watch the eggs, and when they began to change color, I would pick off the entire leaf with the eggs and place them in a glass container, like a pickle jar or a food storage container.

The container would protect the eggs from predators, and give me a close-up view of the metamorphosis.

The eggs started off as cloudy-like drops of glue. I began to notice other insects that flew around the plant. I took pictures of them, too, looking for more clues.

Then, about five days later, the eggs changed color. They went from a cloudy whitish color to a reddish-orange color, with a stripe along the top. They looked like a completely different egg.

A few days later, the eggs hatched. To my surprise, two red leaf-footed bugs emerged, quickly moving around – almost like robots or aliens.

Insects look very different at different stages of their life cycle. In Extension, we talk about integrated pest management or IPM. This involves properly identifying the pest or problem before taking action, using best practices, such as correct amount of irrigation and fertilizer to prevent problems; not taking action if it’s unnecessary; and, matching the control to the problem or pest.

I was disappointed these weren’t beneficial bugs, as leaf-footed bugs are considered garden pests. I placed them back into the garden near my bird feeder.

But, this was an interesting project, because I learned so much.

First, I was eventually able to ID the eggs and the bugs. Second, I noted how long the process took (about a week and half). Third, I have photos to share with others. For example, one website that I reference often, BugGuide.net, does not have pictures of the eggs from the beginning stage.

Had it not been for COVID-19, I would not have had this experience. And, this experience reminds me of a quote, attributed to Dorothy Parker (but some disagree that this is her quote): “The cure for boredom is curiosity. There is no cure for curiosity.”

May you be curious gardeners.

For more information, please visit these links:

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/topic_leaffooted_bugs

https://bugguide.net/node/view/114143

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/IN/IN10900.pdf

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County. Contact Nicole at or at (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Published December 02, 2020

Gardening during COVID-19: Sanitize your tools

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We all know to wash our hands for 20 seconds, cough into our elbows and practice 6-foot physical distancing.

Use common recipes, recommended by the University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (UF/IFAS) to sanitize tools. Soak them for 5 minutes to 10 minutes. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson, UF/IFAS)

But, with all the sanitizing of hands and homes, did you know it’s also important to sanitize your garden tools?

Diseases may be spread from plant to plant by pruning tools, such as hand saws, pruners and loppers. This is especially true for palms.

Fusarium wilt and thielaviopsis trunk rot of palm are two examples of palm diseases that may be transmitted by pruning tools. Fusarium wilt and thielaviopis rot are both lethal palm diseases. It can be costly to remove or replant a specimen palm.

Canary Island date, queen, Mexican fan and coconut palms are the most susceptible. If you have any of these in your landscape, be extra careful about pruning and sanitizing your tools.

If you use a landscape maintenance company, talk with them to make sure they sanitize pruning tools between properties and before pruning these types of palms in your landscape.

Common recipes for sanitizing tools:

  • Pine Sol®: 25% Pine Sol® and 75% water
  • Bleach: 25% bleach and 75% water
  • Rubbing alcohol: 50% rubbing alcohol and 50% water (Must be 70% isopropyl alcohol)
  • Denatured ethanol: 50% denatured ethanol and 50% water (Must be 95% denatured alcohol)

The most important thing to remember: Soak the tools for 5 minutes to 10 minutes. Dipping them into a sanitizing solution will not sanitize them. They must soak for the solution to work.

Also, be sure to replace the solution every two hours, or after 10 palms.

And, be sure to rinse the tool with fresh water after soaking it.

In general, palms rarely need to be pruned. When pruning, only remove dead or dangerous fronds.

Too much pruning may attract pests, such as palmetto weevils. Too much pruning can make nutrient deficiencies worse. It may also stress the palm, which makes it less able to withstand disease.

Take good care of your palms by not over-pruning them. Don’t “hurricane” prune or trim them into pineapple shapes.

 

If you have gardening questions during COVID-19, contact your local Extension office’s virtual help desk. Find an Extension office at this link: https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/find-your-local-office/

For additional information, email , or call (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

To learn more about palms, please check the references used for this column:

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published August 05, 2020

Gifts for the garden

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Wondering what to give the gardener in your life?

Here are few ideas that may be helpful to you.

Most gardeners have pruners they carry with them as they work in the garden. But, how often do they sharpen their pruners? You don’t need to take them anywhere or pay to get them sharpened – they are very easy to sharpen yourself.

A garden cart or wheelbarrow makes garden chores easier. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

For less than $25, you can buy your gardening friend a standard, pocket-sized sharpener, such as this Swiss Istor sharpener. It is lightweight, compact and easy-to-use. Carry it your pocket, apron or toolkit, so it’s ready to sharpen pruners on the go.

If you’re in the market for a planter, you might consider repurposing a cattle trough or stock tank. I’ve seen a lot of restaurants and shops doing that.

These troughs are sturdy, attractive and can be purchased in different sizes. They make it easy to reach plants without bending over, if you buy one that’s a few feet tall.

The sky is the limit regarding the types of plants and combinations a gardener may create in these containers. I have a stock tank on my list this year. It’s 49 gallons and measures 48 inches by 24 inches by 12 inches.

My plan is to stuff it with trellised vegetables, lettuces, herbs and edible flowers. As a bonus, the edible flowers will attract pollinators to the raised bed garden, which helps with pest control and fruit production.

Another great garden gift is a wheelbarrow or a garden cart to make it easier to move mulch, clippings, soil and debris around the garden — which can be a backbreaking chore.

Many gifts – such as plants, gift cards to local nurseries and pollinator-friendly garden signs – are a welcome addition to gardens.

Carts and wheelbarrows are versatile and useful in gardens large or small.

Houseplants also make a great gift.

Many people – including younger gardeners – are drawn to houseplants because they look attractive, can be easy to care for and help improve indoor air quality. I prefer a few large pots with lush, sturdy plants. But, moving these pots – for example, sweeping around them, moving them according to seasonal light changes, or taking them outside for a long soak and to rinse the leaves – can be cumbersome.

Rolling plant caddies can make that job much easier.

You can get planter pot movers for less than $25. Pick plant caddies in a standard color, such as dark brown or black, so they blend in with most pots.

Do you need some inspiration about houseplants? Check websites, social media pages and your local library for “houseplant groups,” “houseplant décor” or “houseplants.”

Bird feeders are great gifts, too. Wrap the bird feeder along with a good bird seed mix so the recipient can hang the feeder immediately. The birds will thank you, too.

Here’s an idea I picked up in Arizona a few years ago, when I visited a beautiful garden in the desert.

They hung prisms from shrubs and small trees, which reflected sunlight and made little rainbows around the garden, adding to the garden’s charm.

Backyard bird feeders and birdbaths make a nice gift for any gardener or wildlife enthusiast.

Prisms and other suncatchers make great gifts. Here’s a tip: If the prisms don’t come with a cord, be sure to include some heavy duty clear fishing line, or similar cord, to go along with your prism.

Of course, seasonal plants are a nice gift idea, too.

A pot of amaryllis or paperwhites bring holiday cheer to any room. They are easy to grow for any skill level. Many local nurseries and box stores carry these during the holidays. They make a nice addition to holiday décor, whether at home or at the office. As a bonus, amaryllis may be planted outside after blooming.

Garden books, flowerpots, pot clips, pot feet, macramé plant holders (yes, macramé is in style) and hose guards are all nice gifts. Garden signs that show your gardening friend’s appreciation for pollinators, birds and bees are a nice touch, too, especially if placed near a sidewalk or in a school or community garden plot.

When the garden is all spruced up, weeded and mulched (when is that ever done?!), sit back and relax with a cold drink. Place universal beverage/drink holder stakes around the garden and near patio areas and tables to encourage sitting for a moment and enjoying the garden on your own, or with pets, friends and family.

Of course, you can never go wrong with a gift card. Chances are the gardener in your life can always use one more plant! Gift cards to local nurseries help support local businesses and can give your recipient the option of all kinds of garden gifts, whether it’s a new plant, seeds, a tool, garden ornament or soil.

For additional information, contact or (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published December 18, 2019