Nature Notes

Growing orchids can be easy

April 20, 2016 By Special to The Laker/Lutz News

I often get calls from residents where I’m asked to provide a list of “easy” plants.

The truth is, any plant is technically “easy” to grow once you understand its needs.

However, after attending a seminar by one of my master gardeners, I was reminded of the beauty and simplicity of growing orchids.

I would highly recommend orchids as an “easy” plant.

Cattleyas are widely grown because of their showy flowers and long life. (Photos courtesy of Jack Morgan, UF/IFAS Pasco master gardener) — Cattleyas are widely grown because of their showy flowers and long life.
(Photos courtesy of Jack Morgan, UF/IFAS Pasco master gardener)

Orchids are relatively pest free, and make beautiful indoor and outdoor additions to any home. There are thousands of orchid species and more hybrids than one could count. Some orchids are terrestrial species, which means they are ground dwellers. There are others that don’t require soil and grow on trees, and those type of plants are known as epiphytes.

Epiphytes are not parasites, as they only use the tree as a structural support.

There are three categories of epiphytes that I find most interesting and “easy.” The Vanda orchids produce bloom spikes capable of lasting three weeks or more. The flower colors vary from browns and greens to pink, blue, purple, white and even black or gold. You would most readily recognize these orchid flowers in the welcoming leis of Hawaii among other orchid species.

The Cattleyas are probably the most widely grown, and are very popular due to their showy flowers and long life. Flower colors range through the basic colors, except for blue, and can be found in striking bold hues to almost pastel shades. There are single and double blooms, and some even have a light, airy fragrance that won’t overwhelm the senses. There are Cattleyas that produce up to 20 flowers that are 3-inches wide, while others put on a dramatic show with 7-inch flowers clustered into groups of four or five.

Cattleyas usually only flower once a year — in the spring or fall — and their flowers generally last up to six weeks depending on the species and cultivar.

Phaleanopsis produce a long spray of 10 flowers to 20 flowers, anywhere from 3-inches to 4-inches in diameter.

The third type of epiphytic orchid that I consider “easy” would be the Phaleanopsis, or “moth” orchids. These are great for beginners as they can endure even the brownest thumb. These orchids produce a long arching “spray” of 10 flowers to 20 flowers anywhere from 3-inches to 4-inches in diameter. Beautiful pinks, yellows, oranges, whites and those with pops of intermingled colors are common.

When in full bloom, these resemble moths fluttering en masse and can be quite stunning. These orchids normally bloom for up to one month in winter or early spring, but with optimal pruning and growing conditions, they can be induced to flower continuously.

Caring for orchids is quite easy. Key tenets of orchid care involve: temperature, light, nutrition, moisture and air movement.

A simple fertilizer for orchids, like 18-18-18 or 20-20-20, and fish emulsion applied to the roots will be plenty in terms of nutrition. Simply dilute the fertilizer into the water system you use to maintain moisture.

The amount of moisture varies slightly for each type of orchid, based on where it’s located. An orchid that gets more light than another might require more water, or when the temperatures decrease, moisture requirements might drop.

Keep an eye on the roots. Orchid roots should be slightly green – a light green and plump. When orchids need water, the roots tend to become gray and dull, and even wither slightly. That’s a sure sign they need moisture. A spray bottle will do nicely, as will a gentle drink from a hose. Direct the water right onto the roots (to avoid leaf spots) and soak Vanda roots daily in summer and every other day in winter. Water your orchids early in the day to allow the extra moisture to evaporate and discourage fungal growth.

Cattleyas are a bit more tolerant of drier conditions and can be watered two to three times per week – just keep an eye on the roots for stress to know when supplemental moisture might be needed.

Vanda orchids produce bloom spikes that can last three weeks or more.

For the Phaleanopsis orchid species, water them weekly – maybe twice per week. These orchids like to be moist, but not wet.

When it comes to light, most of the orchid types mentioned in this article like 50 percent to 70 percent shade, so screened porches work nicely.

For the Vandas, a bit more light is best, so that they receive 40 percent to 50 percent shade.

As for temperature, never let your Vanda orchids get below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, as it might be fatal. For the Cattleyas and Phaleanopis varieties, temperatures down to 40 degrees Fahrenheit or 50 degrees Fahrenheit for short periods will not be harmful.

A freeze warning might prompt some protection for exposed orchids, but otherwise these are quite hardy.

Another key to growing orchids is to promote air movement around the roots. Even orchids living in pots need course textured growth media, like pine bark (orchid potting mix) to allow for plenty of oxygen to reach the roots.

Hanging orchid baskets are a beautiful way to display orchids while allowing the roots to be exposed to the air.

As long as orchids have course textured growing media (bark, not potting soil), most will thrive.

Once the mix has broken down into fine particles, it’s time to repot the orchid into a courser mix. There’s really no right or wrong pot for an orchid — as long as the roots have air, moisture and nutrients, and the leaves have the right amount of light.

The only precaution I might offer about growing orchids is to be sure you’ve got plenty of space.

Orchids are enchanting and addictive, not to mention “easy” to grow.

For more information about orchids, or other horticultural needs, call the University of Florida/IFAS Extension Pasco County Office at (352) 518-0156. For upcoming seminar announcements and registration, go to Pasco.ifas.ufl.edu.

By Whitney C. Elmore

Dr. Whitney Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension Director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published April 20, 2016

Being safe in your garden

March 9, 2016 By Special to The Laker/Lutz News

Although we love spending time in our gardens, many things can harm us when we are working outside.

So, it’s important to use precautions while we’re doing our garden chores.

I know this from experience.

Protect yourself when working in your Florida garden by wearing long sleeves, long pants, a hat and sunscreen. (Photos courtesy of Nicole Pinson) — Protect yourself when working in your Florida garden by wearing long sleeves, long pants, a hat and sunscreen.
(Photos courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

Some plants, such as bougainvillea and pygmy date palms, have thorns that can puncture your hand or finger joints.

The residual plant matter from the thorns can lead to an infection called thorn synovitis.

I know this, because a thorn punctured my knuckle as I was pruning bougainvillea. My finger swelled, I lost range of motion and was in pain for weeks. Eventually, I had to see an orthopedic surgeon about the infection. Now, I always wear my gauntlet gloves when working with thorny plants.

And, that’s just one of the hazards you can encounter while gardening.

Here are some things to keep in mind to help you stay safe.

Protect yourself from sun exposure.

Wear long sleeves and long pants, stay hydrated, stretch and take frequent breaks. Wide-brimmed hats and sunscreen afford more sun protection.

Read the labels of pesticides, fungicides and herbicides.

The label is not only the law, but it also provides you important information about how to protect yourself with personal protective equipment and clothing, if needed.

The label provides directions for use and environmental hazards such as minimizing exposure to nontarget organisms like honey bees.

Take the time to read pesticide, herbicide and fungicide labels.

In addition, the label will provide information about re-entry periods or

Preharvest intervals (PHI). A preharvest interval is the minimum amount of days that must be observed between the date of the last application of the pesticide and the date of harvest, which means you must wait that amount of days before you can harvest the fruit or vegetable.

Another important piece of information is called APP, or the maximum number of applications allowed per crop per year.

Avoid stings

Many of our native bees, wasps and flies are important pollinators and should be encouraged to visit your garden. However, some may sting when provoked, or when their nest is disturbed. To help avoid stings, don’t walk barefoot in the yard; keep sweet drinks and foods covered; pick fruit as it ripens and dispose of rotten fruit; move slowly, and don’t swat at bees or wasps that are foraging for food. It’s also a good idea to wear insect repellant, and avoid mowing the lawn or working in the garden when bees and wasps are active.

Prevent other bites and beware of poisonous plants

You can protect yourself from stinging caterpillars, venomous snakes, biting spiders, mosquitoes and poisonous plants by not handling something you cannot identify. Learn to recognize poisonous or venomous plants and animals — such as poison ivy and pygmy rattlesnakes. Keep your garden free of debris piles, weeds and standing water, too, to reduce hiding places and habitats.

Wear gloves

Be sure to protect your hands when working with sphagnum moss and around plants with thorns. A fungus called Sporothrix schenckii can cause the disease sporotrichosis, also known as the rose gardener’s disease or rose thorn disease. This fungus can be found in sphagnum moss and peat moss, and may enter the body through cuts or skin punctures, causing lesions.

This disease is rarely life-threatening and can be treated with antifungals, but gardeners should be aware of this potential threat when working with peat or sphagnum moss.

Look out, below

It’s a good idea to find out what’s below ground before you begin digging.

You can call Sunshine 811, a nonprofit organization that notifies utility companies where you plan to dig, so they can come out to your property and mark underground cables and pipes. This can protect you from potential damages and can help to keep you safe.

This process usually takes a few days, so call well in advance of your project.

Of course, these are just a few tips to help you along.

If you are injured or suspect you’ve been bitten by a venomous snake or spider, call 911.

If you or someone you know has ingested a poisonous plant, call the Florida Poison Information Center at (800) 222-1222.

And, if you have other questions, or need help identifying a plant or an insect, call your local Extension office.

By Nicole Pinson

Nicole Pinson is an Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County. She gratefully acknowledges Gerri Almand, UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County Master Gardener, for her help in preparing this article. For additional information, you can reach Pinson at (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Published March 9, 2016

Warm winter weather prompts blooming confusion

January 6, 2016 By Special to The Laker/Lutz News

The peaches are in bloom, the aroma of flowers fills the air – spring has sprung.

But, how can that be?

It’s only January.

The calendar says it’s winter, but our gardens are acting like it is spring.

With temperatures 15 degrees to 20 degrees above average for this time of the year, it’s easy for plants, and for us, too, to be tricked by Mother Nature.

It’s all due to this unusually strong El Niño pattern.

This photograph of a cluster of blooming pink azaleas was taken in December. Normally, they do not flower until March or April. (Courtesy of Whitney Elmore) — This photograph of a cluster of blooming pink azaleas was taken in December. Normally, they do not flower until March or April.
(Courtesy of Whitney Elmore)

Warm soil and air temperatures have conned normally fall blooming plants into blooming longer. And, spring blooming plants are flowering way before normal.

Flowerbeds are jumping, cold season veggies are lagging, and trees are budding out.

While it’s not necessarily “good” for plants, most will endure — and in the long run they won’t be harmed.

However, the consequences of a mild to non-existent winter for our plants will most likely result in less than vibrant color displays and reduced flowering in spring and summer.

Plants are using their stored food reserves to bloom now, which will cause them to be sluggish later on. But, plants will restore and replenish food reserves in summer, so we should experience a more normal blooming pattern starting next fall — if the weather cooperates.

But, just because the plants will most likely survive to bloom again doesn’t mean we shouldn’t help them along.

Since the plants are currently very active, keep watering, if necessary, as you would in the spring.

Since we are in the dry season, actively growing plants will need supplemental irrigation.

Don’t rush to prune out-of-season plants. Pruning triggers all sorts of hormonal responses, which tell plants to grow.

Telling a plant to grow succulent and vulnerable tissue, when some sort of winter weather in inevitable, is a sure way to harm tender tissue when that cold finally arrives.

The same goes for fertilizers – don’t fertilize, which also stimulates growth.

All we can do is gently help them through the unusual weather and prepare them for summer.

For now, enjoy the warm temperatures while they last.

By Whitney Elmore

Dr. Whitney Elmore, UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension Director and Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published January 6, 2016

Holiday gift ideas for your favorite gardener

December 23, 2015 By Special to The Laker/Lutz News

With the holiday shopping season almost over, you may be trying to figure out just what to give to your favorite gardener.

A few tools are on my list of essentials.

To start, my absolute favorite garden tool is a scuffle hoe. These implements are very familiar to farmers.

The work of gardening can be made easier with the proper tools, so if there’s a gardener on your gift list, a tool might be just the thing to help him or her to have happier times in the garden. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson) — The work of gardening can be made easier with the proper tools, so if there’s a gardener on your gift list, a tool might be just the thing to help him or her to have happier times in the garden.
(Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

A scuffle hoe is a special type of hoe with a square-shaped blade. These hoes help you edge landscape beds and remove small weed seedlings, simply by pushing the blade back and forth over an area. It’s easier on your back, and is a very powerful tool to keep beds and borders weed free.

My second favorite tool is my wide, metal trowel.

An avid weeder, I enjoy seeing progress as I move through the garden and dig out weeds. Nearly every gardener has reached down to pull out a weed, and become disgruntled when the top of the weed snaps off, only to leave the pernicious root behind. Having a trowel handy prevents this from happening, and enables you to dig a few inches into the soil, and pop out the weed quickly and effectively.

And, when you’re weeding, you may want a kneeler. Kneelers are foam pads that you rest your knees on. I have a few kneelers, but a large piece of cardboard always works in a pinch.

Last year, my husband bought me a great pair of gloves for Christmas. The gloves are Black and Decker gauntlet gloves, and they snap at the wrist so you have the option to wear them either as regular gloves for protecting your hands, or as gauntlet gloves to protect your hands, wrists and arms. These tough gloves extend all the way up to your elbow. They have proved invaluable to me when pruning my bougainvillea each year. Whereas, before I was a human pincushion, I am now more like Edward Scissorhands, and beautiful bougainvilleas result.

No matter what size your yard, a wheelbarrow can be a big help.

Wheelbarrows can move plants, mulch, bags of soil, compost and debris. They store nicely against sheds and walls.

A watering tin and gardening gloves at a home garden.

Another favorite tool is a hand-held pruning saw. These small, lightweight saws are capable of cutting through branches too thick for pruners. My pruning saw is used every year to cut back yellow cassia.

Since I am away from home a lot, I have become a big fan of a simple, bell-shaped glass cloche and saucer for seed starting. The glass cloche covers peat pots or small containers of soil and seeds. Recently, I harvested basil seeds from spent flowerheads. I sprinkled the seeds on soil in a small plastic pot, and placed the pot on the saucer under the glass cloche. Located in bright, indirect light (on a patio table under a live oak tree), the basil seeds quickly germinated. The glass cloche provided constant humidity for the seeds. Fast forward a few months, and there are several new basil plants to plant or share. With nearly no effort, the seeds started because the cloche acted as a terrarium. You can find a cloche at arts and crafts stores, or repurpose other glass containers.

Last but not least, another favorite garden tool is a green, rectangular floral frog. Floral frogs come in many different sizes and shapes. They are used on their own, or placed in larger containers.

Floral frogs are made of metal pins or squares. You place flower stems in the pins or squares, and they hold the stems upright. I’ve created many informal bouquets in my office, gathering flowers and leaves from the Extension teaching and demonstrations gardens, and placing them in my simple, green frog.

Other best picks for gardeners: hand scrub, solar globe lights, wind chimes, birdhouses, and watering cans.

Almost every year, my husband and friends get me something related to gardening.

When I look at my garden, these gifts remind me all year of my loved ones who gave them to me. Happy holidays!

For additional information, call (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

By Nicole Pinson
Nicole Pinson is an Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published December 23, 2015

Groundcovers offer a great option for Florida landscapes

November 18, 2015 By Special to The Laker/Lutz News

“Why didn’t I come to you first?”

That’s a commonly uttered question at our Pasco County Extension office, when homeowners come in with landscape problems.

Usually, this question is preempted by a “put the right plant in the right place” discussion.

This Florida-Friendly Landscaping^TM (FFL) principle is simple to grasp, but not obvious until someone puts it in plain English by saying “you didn’t put the right plant in the right place.”

It’s often an “ah ha” moment for folks that’s followed by remorse.

Liriope, also known as monkey grass, is a good ground cover for areas with partial shade. (Courtesy of Whitney C. Elmore) — Liriope, also known as monkey grass, is a good ground cover for areas with partial shade.
(Courtesy of Whitney C. Elmore)

Most landscape woes can be prevented by simply doing a bit of homework to determine if a particular plant will be happy in a particular spot in the yard.

One of the more common issues leading to landscape remorse is the urge to use turfgrasses in shady locations.

We do not have any turfgrasses for Central Florida that are adapted to shade. St. Augustine grass and Bahigrass, the most common in our home lawns, need at least five hours to six hours of full sun daily to thrive; anything less leads to a weak plant. Remember the first principle of FFL – turf in a shady spot is putting the “wrong plant in the wrong place!”

No matter how many times you sod or seed that same area, lack of sunlight will limit vigor and have the same result every single time – remorse.

But, there’s good news – better yet, great news! There are alternatives to turfgrass in shady locations.

Groundcovers are an excellent option for shady spaces.

A groundcover is a low-growing plant used to cover areas where grass can’t grow or isn’t preferred, such as a shady spot.

Groundcovers not only cover bare soil; they also can be beautiful focal points and even provide a more functional use of the landscape, such as redirecting foot traffic.

Groundcovers also serve as practical lawn alternatives with many benefits.

One advantage is the ability to use them in areas where mowing isn’t easy — especially where there are narrow strips of soil along sidewalks, driveways or walls.

Groundcovers also help prevent soil erosion on slopes.

The right groundcover in the right place can lower maintenance costs, reduce weeds, provide color during winter months, and reduce overall landscape maintenance.

There are several considerations to keep in mind when selecting a groundcover, such as: plant type (evergreen, flowering plant, vine, shrub, etc.), growing conditions and maintenance.

Select a plant type that will satisfy your needs and aesthetic desire. Ornamental grasses, vines, flowering plants, and small shrubs all can serve as groundcovers.

Like other plants, sunlight needs for groundcovers can vary.

For example, if you need a low growing, spreading groundcover where there’s plenty of sunlight, select shore juniper or dwarf yaupon holly. These are handy in areas where you need to direct foot traffic.

The beach morning glory and the beach sunflower can provide a nice pop of color in sunny spots and even attract butterflies.

Perennial peanut does great in full sun and provides excellent contrasting colors and textures.

Our native coontie is a nice addition in full sun or shade along with brightly colored daylilies, which produce a nice focal point or dramatic effect in the landscape.

Another plant that does well in partial shade or full sun is the purple queen, which produces small, pink flowers and succulent stems.

In partial shade, choose Mondo grass or Liriope, aloe plants, false heather, or Dwarf Asiatic jasmine. Asiatic jasmine does have a tendency to “creep and leap,” so be prepared to do some frequent maintenance to keep it from overtaking other plants and sidewalks. In dense shade, choose holly fern, cast iron plant, or Algerian ivy for a contrast in texture and color.

Arrangement and spacing will depend on the growth patterns for each of these plants. In general, staggered row plantings will provide the quickest coverage, and a 2-inch to 3-inch layer of mulch will help reduce weeds and will lock in moisture.

Some groundcovers can be planted 2 inches to 3 inches apart, while others need more room, some requiring 3 feet to 4 feet of space between plants, like the native coontie.

Spacing depends on the plant itself, so plan to do a little research to be sure of your desired plant needs prior to purchase.

Water and fertilizer needs also depend on the plant type, so do your homework on that, as well.

You can plant most any of these groundcovers anytime in our area, but do plan to add organic matter to the soil prior to planting, which helps increase water holding capacity and nutrient availability.

You can use compost, peat moss, and even well-rotted manures incorporated into the soil 6 inches to 12 inches deep.

Once established, most groundcovers will be low-maintenance, long-term, grief-free additions to your landscape.

For more information about ground covers, call the University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences Pasco Extension Office at (352) 518-0156.

By Whitney C. Elmore

Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and Urban Horticulture agent.

Published November 18, 2015

Invite beneficial bugs into your garden

October 21, 2015 By Special to The Laker/Lutz News

Many insects live in our gardens. But did you know that most insects are harmless?

In fact, nearly 99 percent of all insects are either harmless or helpful, and just 1 percent are considered pests.

Sometimes we easily recognize beneficial bugs.

Common insects that come to mind include honey bees, butterflies and lady beetles. Other examples of beneficial bugs are predatory wasps, earwigs and big-eyed bugs.

It is easy to encourage beneficial bugs to your garden.

The larra wasp is a fierce predator of mole crickets. (Courtesy of Andrei Sourakov, Florida Museum of Natural History.) — The larra wasp is a fierce predator of mole crickets.
(Courtesy of Andrei Sourakov, Florida Museum of Natural History.)

Start by adding plant diversity. Choose flowers of different colors and shapes, so they attract large and small pollinators.

One highly successful pollinator plant is scorpion’s tail. This plant has tiny white flowers that are attractive to wasps and flies.

Another great choice is partridge pea. The partridge pea has light green leaves and bright yellow flowers. Partridge pea blooms throughout the year. Not only does it serve as a host plant for yellow sulphur butterflies, it also serves as a nectar plant for butterflies, bees and pollinators. Planting partridge pea in your garden will ensure visits by our native pollinators.

When encouraging beneficial bugs to your garden, properly identify “pests.” When you see an insect or a bug, take the time to identify it before taking action.

My favorite bug is the mealybug destroyer. Most people find this bug in its larval form. As larva, it resembles a giant, white mealybug with a bad hair day. But, this bug seeks out and eats pest insects such as scales and mealybugs. At first glance, a reaction may be to squish or spray it. However, when left alone, the mealybug destroyer moves quickly and eats its prey. Eventually, it turns into a black lady beetle.

The mealybug destroyer is a type of lady beetle, and inadvertently killing it significantly decreases the ability of a key insect to assist you with your garden’s pest control.

Some beneficial bugs have been introduced as biological control agents. These insects typically link with a key pest, plant or problem.

For example, the air potato vine is an invasive exotic plant that grows rapidly, has few known natural predators and propagates easily by tubers. Air potato vine had few predators, until now. The air potato leaf beetle was released a few years ago, primarily in natural areas such as state parks. This reddish orange beetle has successfully lived in the wild, reproduced and is voraciously eating the air potato vine leaves. When this beneficial bug eats the air potato vine leaf, it effectively reduces the leaves’ ability to make food through photosynthesis. Over time, this beetle will help reduce the amount of land covered by the invasive vine.

There are other great biological controls, such as the larra wasp.

Most people do not realize that wasps and flies can be beneficial. In particular, the larra wasp is a predator of mole crickets.

Mole crickets are insects that love bahiagrass.

Mole crickets are large, active at night, and they form burrows in soil — called galleries —that damages grass roots.

The larra wasp loves mole crickets. It finds a mole cricket, drags it up to the soil surface, and lays an egg on the soft underside of the mole cricket. When the mole cricket travels back, down into its tunnel, the larra wasp egg eventually hatches and the larra wasp larva consumes and kills the mole cricket.

The larra wasp is a great beneficial bug. You can attract it by planting larraflower Spermacoce verticillata. The tiny clusters of white flowers are very attractive to larra wasps and other pollinators.

Lastly, be careful with pesticide use. Use the least toxic or soft pesticides, such as insecticidal soap and horticultural oil, whenever possible. Rotate vegetables to keep vegetable garden pests guessing. Choose pest-resistant varieties and follow the first principle of Florida Friendly Landscaping^TM: right plant, right place. By selecting the right plant and planting it in the right location, you may be able to reduce pest and disease problems.

So, don’t forget: Most insects are harmless or are actually helpful, and just 1 percent of insects are pests.

Also, recognize that proper identification is important, and that in cases like the mealybug destroyer, larva can look very different from the adult form of that same insect.

If you need help identifying an insect, contact your local Extension office.

By Nicole Pinson

Nicole Pinson is an Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published October 21, 2015

Heavy rains can pose landscape problems

September 2, 2015 By Special to The Laker/Lutz News

Heavy rainfalls during recent weeks have caused many homeowners to worry about disease in their landscape plants.

While it is true that most plant pathogens prefer lots of water and high temperatures —that doesn’t mean your plants automatically will become diseased in our recent scenario.

When soil becomes saturated, plants can become deprived of oxygen and they can die, said Whitney C. Elmore, Pasco County Extension director and Urban Horticulture Agent III. (Courtesy of Chuck Gosselin, Pasco master gardener) — When soil becomes saturated, plants can become deprived of oxygen and they can die, said Whitney C. Elmore, Pasco County Extension director and Urban Horticulture Agent III.
(Courtesy of Chuck Gosselin, Pasco master gardener)

And, just because conditions are right for disease, it doesn’t mean that you automatically should spray chemicals.

Spraying chemicals into the environment without confirming that disease is present is potentially harmful, not to mention that it’s a waste of time and money. It’s also important to know that it will not “cure” or make waterlogged plants stronger.

Positive confirmation of disease requires visual signs of the pathogen, such as fungus on the leaves, and symptoms of the disease like spots, wilting or dieback. Only then should a fungicide be considered.

But remember: Applying fungicides cannot cure diseased plant parts, such as roots and leaves. Fungicides simply will help reduce spread to other plants in the landscape.

If you determine that your plants are infected with a disease that can be treated with chemicals, be sure to follow the label directions.

The UF/IFAS Pasco Extension Office can help you determine if your plants are diseased and can recommend your best method of control.

While disease is a threat in wet conditions, unless plants are naturally adapted to watery environments like the bald cypress, standing water will more quickly become a problem by taking a toll on the roots.

Plants need oxygen. Waterlogged soils can deprive them of that oxygen. Even the bald cypress found in aquatic environments needs oxygen; hence the stump-like “knees” which help move oxygen into the plant roots.

It’s not always evident that plant roots are suffering from oxygen deprivation, since saturated soils don’t always have standing water.

Saturated soils are simply those that are so wet that plant roots cannot obtain oxygen. In other words, standing water is not required to waterlog a plant. Plant roots in waterlogged soils appear stunted and withered, with the root tips decomposing and rotting away.

Waterlogged plants quickly show signs of stress by yellowing and wilting. However, if the soil drains relatively quickly, plant roots will start to get oxygen they need once again, and the plant has a good chance of recovery.

However, plants left in waterlogged soils for extended periods of time will die.

Unfortunately, there is no established period of time that roots are in waterlogged soils that tells us whether or not a plant will survive.

The length of time a root can be deprived of oxygen and be able to recover varies greatly, based on plant species and environmental conditions.

So, what are we to do with our plants when extended rains put our landscapes at risk?

Here are some practical steps you can take to reduce damage and disease in your landscape if waterlogging doesn’t claim your plants.

Keep in mind that many of these steps are proactive and need to be considered prior to and not during or after the rains begin.

Don’t fertilize your plants during periods of high rainfall. Our sugar-sand soils quickly leach nutrients wasting your money and polluting our waterways with fertilizers that plants don’t have a chance to uptake before its whisked away into the drinking water reserves below ground. Wait for more favorable conditions to fertilize plants, when rainfall is not so heavy and soils are well drained. This is especially true for stressed plants, which may actually be harmed by fertilizer applications.
Prune areas of diseased or dying tissue. Leaving diseased tissue behind can further spread disease, so remove the debris. Do not compost diseased tissue because it can harbor disease-causing organisms.
Turn off the sprinklers. When plants are getting more than sufficient rainfall, there is no need for supplemental irrigation. This will only encourage disease, saturate the soil further and waste precious water resources. Established plants, with a few exceptions including some turf grasses, do not usually require supplemental irrigation even during periods of dry weather.
Properly mulch plants. Mulch is effective at holding in moisture during drought, and the same holds true during periods of high rainfall. Mulch plants with no more than 2 inches to 3 inches of mulch such as pine bark or melaleuca. Leave a couple of inches between the bark and, mulch to keep moisture away from the bark, which causes rot. When plants are waterlogged, pull the mulch layer back to expose roots to as much oxygen as possible. Once the soil has dried out, replace the mulch.
Reduce soil compaction, which limits drainage, by limiting foot traffic in wet areas.
When mowing, remove clumps of grass, which can harbor pathogens and limit exposure of underlying turf to sunlight.
Put the right plant in the right place. Obviously, this comes way before the rains, but it’s often overlooked and is the simplest way of protecting your plants during high rainfall. Areas of your landscape that are depressed and frequently hold water should not be planted with species that cannot tolerate standing water. Instead, use plants adapted to wet conditions or consider installing a rain garden as a centerpiece for a beautiful addition.

For help identifying disease, or with general questions about irrigation and plant management in your turf or landscape, call the UF/IFAS Pasco Extension Office at (352) 518-0156.

Whitney C. Elmore is the Pasco County Extension director and Urban Horticulture agent III.

Published September 2, 2015

Pointers for planting a fall vegetable garden

August 26, 2015 By Special to The Laker/Lutz News

For many gardeners and newcomers, growing vegetables can be a challenge in Florida. But now is a great time to start thinking about planting a fall vegetable garden.

You can be a more successful vegetable gardener, if you keep in mind some key guidelines.

To begin, remember the first principle of Florida Friendly LandscapingTM: right plant, right place. This applies to vegetable gardens, because it is important to know the right time of year to plant the vegetable you want to grow.

Tomatoes grow best when planted in cooler months, rather than during the heat of summer. (Photos courtesy of Nicole Pinson) — Tomatoes grow best when planted in cooler months, rather than during the heat of summer.
(Photos courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

For example, every year our office answers questions about tomatoes. Many people think the best time to plant tomatoes is in the summer. However, the ideal time to plant tomatoes in Florida is in September and again in February through March.

Other vegetables to plant in September include beans, cabbage, corn, kale, lettuce, radishes and turnips.

You can know exactly when to plant vegetables by using the Florida Vegetable Gardening Guide as your reference.

The Florida Vegetable Gardening Guide is available at edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/VH/VH02100.pdf.

Using this guide, check Table 3 for information on crops and proper planting dates.

Be sure to match the planting date to your region, which in our case is Central Florida.

Another guideline for successful vegetable gardening in Florida is planting recommended varieties whenever possible.

Table 4 of the guide lists suggested varieties for Florida gardens. Examples of tomato varieties that perform well in Florida include Sweet 100, Mortgage Lifter, Sun Gold, Better Boy and Beefmaster. You may want to print the guide and take a copy of it with you (or search for and save the pdf on your mobile phone) when you buy seeds and transplants at the garden center. That way, you can make sure you are choosing vegetables for the right time of year, and purchasing the varieties recommended for our area.

Scout the garden regularly for common pests, such as green stink bugs.

The third most important thing about Florida vegetable gardening is scouting your garden regularly. Be on the lookout for pests and problems. Keep in mind, you may be able to avoid many insect and disease problems just by planting your vegetables at the right time of the year.

Being vigilant and scouting regularly can help you catch problems early and enable you to deal with them proactively.

When treating for pests, follow the first step in integrated pest management: properly identify the pest. Contact your local Extension office for help identifying insects, and advice on when and how to treat pests. Know that it is impossible to eradicate them, and it is important to use pesticides responsibly to prevent resistance.

Most plants can tolerate 10 percent to 20 percent, and sometimes as much of 30 percent, of foliage loss without affecting yield.

Whenever possible, use the least toxic method of control, and rotate pesticides. Rotating pesticides can keep the pests guessing, and maintain the effectiveness of products.

Don’t forget, the least toxic methods also include physical and cultural controls, such as handpicking and applying the proper amount of water and fertilizer. Find the least toxic pesticides by consulting the Florida Vegetable Gardening Guide. Table 2 provides insect control recommendations, and the least toxic products include neem, spinosad, Bt, insecticidal soap and horticultural oil.

The best place to locate your fall vegetable garden is in a sunny location that is also close to a water source.

Properly prepare the area by removing all weeds and grass. Mix in compost and other soil amendments to improve the soil texture and add nutrients. Mulch and micro irrigation can reduce disease by keeping water off leaves. Prior to planting, you may also want to test your soil pH. Soil pH is a measure of the soil’s acidity or alkalinity.

Soil pH is important because it governs how available nutrients are to plants. The University of Florida Soil Testing Lab, and some county Extension offices, can test your soil for pH. The cost per sample is $3.

Homeowners can use soil pH information in determining if existing plants are suited to a location, choosing new plant material best suited to the site, and in applying fertilizer and soil amendments.

Most vegetables prefer a soil pH of 5.5 – 6.3, but if your soil pH is between 5.5 and 7.0, no adjustment in pH is necessary.

Always test your soil first, before adding lime or sulfur, and consider using raised beds if you have a high soil pH.

By planting vegetables at the right time, using recommending varieties, scouting regularly, locating your garden in a sunny spot close to water, and testing soil pH, you will be on your way toward successful vegetable gardening in Florida.

For additional information, contact or (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is an Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published August 26, 2015

Planting a garden that’s friendly to pets

July 22, 2015 By Special to The Laker/Lutz News

Gardeners love their plants and their pets. Knowing the basics about plants, design and safety can help make the garden a great space for humans and their nonhuman companions.

My pet-friendly yard is a favorite place for my dog, Pepper Pinson, to explore. (Photos courtesy of Nicole Pinson) — My pet-friendly yard is a favorite place for my dog, Pepper Pinson, to explore.
(Photos courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

To plant a dog-friendly yard, consider the places in your yard that your dog likes to visit. Does he use specific pathways? Does she like to patrol the fence line? Learning where your dog enjoys spending time in the garden can help you design a pet-friendly backyard. My 85-pound sheepdog, Pepper, loves to play in the garden. But on more than one occasion, Pepper has accidentally run over a newly planted shrub. Now, I notice where she likes to play, and I keep these parts of my garden plant-free, so we both can enjoy our backyard.

If you have favorite plants that are unique or fragile, consider locating them in the front yard to protect them from damage. You can also protect your plants by using raised beds. Keep in mind dogs are reluctant to push through vines and dense plantings. Sturdy plants, such as tough ornamental grasses, or plants with woody stems like viburnum, can help make your garden more resistant to dogs.

Some cats enjoy plants such as catnip. Many of us are familiar with catnip, also called catmint. Catnip is in the Lamiaceae family, which also includes many aromatic plants such as mint, rosemary, salvia and thyme. While being a favorite for cats, it also serves as an excellent garden plant for pollinators when blooming. Catnip is a perennial in Florida, and grows 3 feet to 5 feet tall. But if your catnip is anything like mine, the neighborhood cats will quickly find and roll around in it, which means you may need to replant it often. Catnip may be propagated from seed or cuttings.

Some common landscape plants, such as oleander, are toxic to cats and dogs.

Cats may also love to chew on grasses such as cat grass and lemongrass. Both cat grass and lemongrass are in the grass family, Poaceae. Lemongrass is an easy plant to grow, and it thrives in full sun. It is a perennial throughout most of Florida, and you can use the stalks to flavor teas, soups, curries and stir-fry.

However, any plant a pet eats could make them vomit, so it is usually a good idea to keep plants out of their reach.

According to Dr. Amber Meade, “Most veterinarians know common plant toxins, so if you suspect your pet is sick from eating a plant, always consult your veterinarian. It’s always better to have them evaluated as soon as possible, because sometimes waiting until they are showing signs of sickness is too late.”

The Pet Poison Helpline (PetPoisonHelpline.com/pet-owners/basics/top-10-plants-poisonous-to-pets/) is a good online resource that provides 24-7 support for pet owners. The American Society for Prevention and Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) maintains a list of toxic and nontoxic plants on their website at ASPCA.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control.

For questions about poisonous or toxic plants, the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services has a poisonous plants webpage at FreshFromFlorida.com/Divisions-Offices/Plant-Industry/Bureaus-and-Services/Bureau-of-Entomology-Nematology-Plant-Pathology/Botany/Poisonous-Plants.

Dogs are reluctant to push through dense plantings such as plumbago.

A pet-friendly yard also means using care when applying pesticides and other chemicals. Read pesticide labels carefully, and follow label directions with regard to application, timing and re-entry periods. Practice the basic steps of integrated pest management, and always properly identify the pest before selecting a control. When possible, use the least toxic pesticides, such as soaps, oils, spinosad or neem, if they are appropriate for your pest problem.

If your cat chews on houseplants, or your dog eats your shrubs, then do your research to develop a pet-friendly planting plan for your garden. Common landscape plants and houseplants may be toxic to our nonhuman companions. Doing some research can save you money and keep your pets safe!

For additional information, contact "> or (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

By Nicole Pinson

Nicole Pinson is Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County. The author gratefully acknowledges Dr. Amber Meade, MS, DVM, Broadway Veterinary Hospital, Durham, North Carolina, for her advice and input during preparation of this article.

Clearing up some myths about Spanish moss

June 24, 2015 By Special to The Laker/Lutz News

Spanish moss is an icon, symbolic of lazy southern days.

It sways in the breeze, welcoming travelers to Florida.

Its tendrils trail, acting as a beacon to those looking for adventure in the Sunshine State.

But for some Florida residents, Spanish moss is not always such a welcome sight — especially if it’s hanging from our oaks, cypress trees and ornamental shrubs.

Spanish moss is often misunderstood. Some people think the perennial plant is a parasite. But the truth is, this perennial is actually a bromeliad and rarely causes damage to its host plants. (Courtesy of Whitney C. Elmore) — Spanish moss is often misunderstood. Some people think the perennial plant is a parasite. But the truth is, this perennial is actually a bromeliad and rarely causes damage to its host plants.
(Courtesy of Whitney C. Elmore)

That’s because Spanish moss is often misunderstood.

Spanish moss is a bromeliad and not a moss at all.

It’s a perennial plant closely related to the pineapple.

Spanish moss is an epiphyte, which means it grows on other plants, but it isn’t a parasite.

Epiphytes gather nutrients from the air and even from the dust settling on the surface of their host plant. Spanish moss literally catches moisture and nutrients using tiny scales along its leaf surface and is quite drought tolerant.

When residents notice Spanish moss, or even ball moss, on plants that seem to be in decline, many automatically assume that the Spanish moss is the problem.

If fact, what you’re seeing is the moss inhabiting “easy” areas on the plants that are already struggling due to some other issue. The Spanish moss (and ball moss) isn’t a parasite or a disease, so it rarely ever causes a problem.

Spanish moss doesn’t have roots, so it cannot “hook” itself into plants – it simply hangs on by wrapping itself around a structure and using it for support.

When a plant is struggling, the canopy will often thin exposing the Spanish moss that’s hanging on the plant to more sunlight. That causes the moss to grow more vigorously.

Hence, it appears that Spanish moss is causing a problem, but it really isn’t.

So, Spanish moss is not killing trees.

On rare occasions, moss growth can be heavy enough to shade the leaves on trees causing photosynthesis to the host plant to slow, and that might result in slower growth.

But a healthy tree will outgrow the moss.

With heavy moss accumulation – the added weight can break branches.

So, it may be necessary to remove excess moss to keep limbs from breaking and causing damage to property, people or animals.

If you wish to remove the moss, keep in mind that it will grow back. While it’s usually best to have an arborist remove the moss, you can remove it by hand – just be careful not to fall or injure yourself.

Most of the time it simply isn’t necessary to remove the moss.

In fact, many birds build nests from Spanish moss, and other animals use it to build shelters. So, removing the moss can have a negative impact on wildlife.

Historically, Spanish moss has been used for everything from stuffing in cushions and mattresses to home insulation. Today, it’s more commonly found in floral and ornamental arrangements.

If the moss hanging from your plants bothers you, carefully remove it.

The rest of us will simply enjoy the view.

For more information about Spanish moss, call the UF/IFAS Pasco Extension Office at (352) 518-0156.

By Whitney C. Elmore

Dr. Whitney Elmore, UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension Director and Urban Horticulture Agent III. This column was adapted from B. Larson, et al, Florida’s Native Bromeliads (CIR 1466), Department of Wildlife Ecology and Conservation.

Published June 24, 2015