The Laker/Lutz News

Serving Pasco since 1981/Serving Lutz since 1964

Nature Notes

Have you ever eaten a flower?

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Gardeners and foodies alike enjoy the culinary benefits of edible flowers.

Edible flowers bring another element to the garden — not only because they impart flavor and add interest to meals, but because they add beauty and color, too.

In addition to edible flowers, some flowers serve as important insectaries that provide nectar and pollen to pollinators such as honeybees.
(Courtesy of University of Florida)

By emphasizing plate presentation, you can savor flavors and eat with your eyes.

Did you know flowers have specific flavors?

Tastes that flowers can impart include spicy, sweet, nutty, floral and minty. They can taste like anise, peppers, onions or wintergreen. They can be strong, perfumed, bitter or herbal.

Edible flowers elevate a dish. They have been used in cooking for centuries. Famous markets of the world, such as the Phool Mandi market in New Delhi, sell flowers and spices.

You can plant edible flowers in any garden. They may be mixed in existing landscapes, planted in a vegetable or herb garden, or grown in containers, such as raised beds, flowerpots and window boxes.

Hibiscus flowers are edible, but remove the pollen and reproductive parts. Use care when eating landscape plants because they may recently have been treated with pesticides.

With any landscape, practice the nine Florida Friendly LandscapingTM principles which include: right plant, right place; water efficiently; fertilize appropriately; mulch; attract wildlife; manage yard pests responsibly; recycle; reduce stormwater runoff; and, protect the waterfront.

“Right plant, right place” is important for edible flowers, because you’ll want to find a sunny location for them to bloom.

When possible, use micro-irrigation and harvested rainwater for watering plants. Add mulch to conserve moisture and reduce weeds. Then, harvest your edible flowers and add them to recipes.

A note on foraging: use caution when looking around your yard for edible flowers and plants.

Redbud trees bloom in winter and spring months. The flowers taste sweet when you first eat them.

Landscape plants with edible flowers, for instance, hibiscus and orange blossoms, may be treated with pesticides and herbicides.

Use care when eating edible flowers, be sure to properly identify the plant, check for recent pesticide use and be sure to read the pesticide’s label.

Favorite edible flowers include orange blossoms, nasturtium, rose petals, pansies, Johnny jump-ups, marigold, dianthus, daylily, pineapple guava, redbud, begonia, hibiscus, sunflower petals, anise hyssop, society garlic, petunia, mango, rose geranium, roselle, snapdragons, elderberry, pineapple sage, and native Florida violets.

The flowers of common herbs are edible, too.

Try adding interesting flavors to your cooking by using the flowers of chives, basil, oregano, mint, tarragon, fennel, rosemary, borage, cilantro and dill.

Edible sunflower petals add interest and color to meals.

Don’t forget to try the blossoms of many vegetables. Zucchini, squash, okra, young beans, pea shoots, pumpkin, mustard, broccoli and radish are edible.

Edible flowers have many culinary uses. Add them to salads, soups, drinks, ice cubes, sandwiches, tacos, pasta, bread and desserts. They’re pretty on picnic plates and side dishes, and can be used as garnishes. Some recipes include edible flowers in dog biscuits! Mix edible flowers and seeds (for example, black sesame seeds) to sprinkle color.

Some parts of the flower — for instance, the sepals and stamens — may be bitter or bland. Pollen also may be a problem for people with allergies.

Remove the leaves and pollen parts, and eat only the flower.

Grow edibles from seeds, and experiment with heirlooms and interesting varieties. Save seeds from plants like basil to grow new plants.

In general, manage yard pests responsibly in your landscape.

Scout often, look for signs of pests and problems, and learn what is normal in your garden.

Use care with pesticides and employ least toxic methods first to control pests, which include insecticidal soaps and horticultural oils.

In addition to culinary uses, some edible flowers provide wildlife benefits. For example, African blue basil is a pollinator magnet. Use it to plant an insectary or small garden that attracts our native pollinators. Grow your successful edible garden, and get more plants from seeds, cuttings and division. Share those plants with others, or transplant them in different parts of your garden.

As you can see, edible flowers bring more than just color and beauty to your garden.

For additional information, contact or (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published February 15, 2017

Coping with seasonal drought in the landscape

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If you were to take a map of the globe and draw a parallel line to the east and to the west of Florida — worldwide — what would you discover?

You would note that Florida is roughly positioned along the same latitude as Mediterranean-type climates where dry, arid conditions prevail. Logic implies then that our weather should be more like that of Southern California or parts of the Mediterranean; hot and dry.

(Courtesy of University of Florida/IFAS communications)

In a normal year, Florida is especially known for its hot, but very wet summers. Because Florida sits between two large bodies of water, it has the luxury of moist, humid air riding along the sea breezes being pulled in our direction just looking for a piece of land on which to rain.

Florida averages 50 inches of rainfall per year as opposed to Southern California at 15 inches to 20 inches annually.

But, from October to April or May, Florida can be very dry.

That’s a typical dry pattern for us based on our latitude, so even sticky, swampy Florida is meant to dry down. In our landscape, this can pose some issues, but maybe not the ones you’d expect.

Our trees and shrubs, once established, require little to no supplemental irrigation throughout this typically dry period, because they are adapted to this seasonal variation.

There is one caveat, though: These must be the right plants in the right place.

A plant out of place, say a shade-loving plant in partial to full sun, will obviously require more water to survive if it’s going to do so.

Put that shade-loving plant in a shady spot where it’s meant to be, and we prevent stress, thus lowering water needs.

Newly planted shrubs and trees would certainly require more water during the dry season, so that’s why it’s best to hold off on planting until we begin our warmer, wetter season in May maybe even June, so that frequent irrigation won’t be necessary. Let nature do the watering for you.

Turfgrasses, like St. Augustinegrass (‘Floratam’ is an example), are a bit different. St. Augustinegrass will enter a semi-dormant phase in Central Florida due to the shortened day-length of fall and winter. It’s not actively growing, but it’s not totally dormant either, so it does need some water to stay alive.

When it’s dry during the winter, it’s common to see symptoms of drought on this grass. Rolled leaf blades, a bluish-purple cast, or footprints left behind as we walk on the turf are all symptoms of drought and require supplemental irrigation. Conversely, in the summer, if your turf is established and healthy, it’s unlikely you need irrigation at all, as long as we’re getting frequent rainfall like we normally do.

Be aware that too much water could actually cause more harm than good, and certainly wastes valuable water any time of the year.

As we continue through the dry season, monitor your turf for drought stress and irrigate late in the evening to prevent evaporation losses, and use no more than three-quarters of an inch of water per application.

In Pasco County, water restrictions limit homeowners to one irrigation event per week, so make the most of it, and irrigate appropriately.

When asked how much irrigation a homeowner is applying, the most common response is 10 minutes or 15 minutes.

Ten minutes to 15 minutes of irrigation, depending on your irrigation system and the nozzles, might mean that you’re applying 1/10th of an inch to 2 inches or more of water.

The only way to be sure is to calibrate the system, which is easy. Take two tuna cans, or three, and place them in each irrigation zone. Run the zone for a set period of time. Measure the amount of water in the can, and if you’re putting out more or less than the three-quarters of an inch recommended, simply adjust the timing on that zone and retest.

Test each zone. Check for broken or nonfunctional heads. Also, look for heads that are pointing onto pavement, sidewalks and so on, because they are doing nothing more than wasting water and your money.

A simple calibration check every three or four months will prevent a lot of turfgrass woes and save a lot of dough.

Also, remember that your grass is not actively growing through the fall and winter, so fertilizing during the dry season of late fall through early spring is useless, as the plant will not use the fertilizer, and what remains of it is leached into the groundwater leading to senseless pollution. Plus, it’s a waste of money. We don’t want to tell our plants to grow when nature is telling them to rest. There’s a reason they’ve slowed growth or gone dormant, so don’t interfere by overwatering or fertilizing during these times of drought.

If you have questions about helping your landscape cope with seasonal drought, call your local University of Florida/IFAS Extension Office for help. We have Solutions for Your Life.

Dr. Whitney Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension Director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published January 11, 2017

A scary case of mistaken identity

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A homeowner emailed a photo to the Hillsborough County Extension Office of a group of insects she discovered on a plant in her yard. She shared her photo on Facebook, looking for help in identifying them. Several people, seeing her photo, had kindly warned her they could be disease-carrying insects called kissing bugs, otherwise known by the much less friendly name of bloodsucking conenose. The insects indeed look quite similar to kissing bugs/conenose.

Learn to find and identify bugs. Look for differences in insect color, patterns and markings. Note the white band across the back of the leaffooted bug, known as Leptoglossus phyllopus. (Photos courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

After submitting the photo to the UF/IFAS Insect Identification Lab, good news was revealed: they were not the bloodsucking conenose. The insects were the nymph stage of a kind of leaffooted bug called Spartocera fusca. They feed on plants in the tomato family and won’t bite people.

The bad news is, like stink bugs, leaffooted bugs can be serious plant pests. Leaffooted bugs are larger than stink bugs. They have piercing-sucking mouthparts they inject into leaves and fruit. Their saliva damages plants. You may see stippling, spots on fruit skin or rinds, deformed fruit or fruit drop. This can be costly for farmers, because leaffooted bugs can cause economic injury, resulting in fruits and vegetables with decreased market quality.

Additionally, leaffooted bugs are polyphagous, which means they feed on a variety of plants including fruits, vegetables, citrus and ornamentals.

What can you do about leaffooted bugs? Do­­n’t be alarmed, as leaffooted bugs can be controlled in home gardens and backyards. Just as this homeowner did, scout regularly. Learn to find and identify bugs. Look for differences in insect color, patterns and markings.

It is important to recognize that leaffooted bugs go through an incomplete metamorphosis. Their life cycle is egg, nymph and adult.

The disease-carrying conenose bug, shown in this photo by Alexander Wild, may be confused with leaffooted bugs.

The nymph stage may have several instars, during which the insects grow and develop. Leaffooted bug nymphs often have black legs and orange, reddish bodies. Their characteristic leaf-like hind leg develops in later instars. Their color can change too, going from orange to brown to black. Contact your Extension office if you need help with identification.

It’s easy to control them– if you’re not squeamish. Simply carry a plastic container of soapy water with you to the garden as you scout. Handpick the leaffooted bugs and drop them in the soapy water. They don’t bite or sting.

You can also limit these pests if you remove and discard plants, like tomatoes and other vegetables, after harvest. Remove weeds that may attract them, and encourage beneficial insects and predators such as tachinid flies, birds and spiders.

Minimize pesticide use and plant a variety of flowers to attract good insects. Always identify a plant, vegetable or turfgrass problem before applying pesticides, and check information for accuracy. Like this homeowner, you can verify claims by contacting your Extension office or using many of the free online UF/IFAS resources.

References:
Byron, M.A. and J.L. Capinera. (2016). Eastern Bloodsucking Conenose, Triatoma sanguisuga (LeConte) (Hemiptera: Reduviidae: Triatominae). IFAS Publication Number ENY-581. Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved from http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/in1018.

Mead, F.W. (1971). Featured Creatures Fact Sheet: Leaffooted bug, Leptoglossus phyllopus (Linnaeus) (Insecta: Hemiptera: Coreidae). Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved from http://entnemdept.ufl.edu/creatures/orn/leaffooted_bug.htm.

Mizell, R. (2015). Stink Bugs and Leaffooted Bugs Are Important Fruit, Nut, Seed and Vegetable Pests. IFAS Publication Number ENY-718. Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved from http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/in534.

For additional information, contact or (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County. The author gratefully acknowledges JoAnn Hoffman, UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County Horticulture Program Assistant, for her advice and input during preparation of this article.

Published December 28, 2016

Plant a beautiful, Florida moonlight garden

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Imagine coming home from work, or walking around your garden in the evening, and admiring your moonlight garden just as the sun begins to set or during the early evening.

Moonlight gardens are planted purposefully so they can be enjoyed during twilight. Planting one is easy, and it’s a clever way to design or redesign a section of your yard.

Pretty jewel orchids have white flowers. They provide interest when not blooming. (Photos courtesy of Nicole Pinson)
Pretty jewel orchids have white flowers. They provide interest when not blooming.
(Photos courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

Depending on the size of your yard, you can create a large or tiny moonlight garden. One of my favorite places to design moonlight gardens is in shady spots. Full shade areas, such as under a live oak tree, can be inviting spaces for moonlight gardens in hot Florida temperatures.

To get started, think about what kinds of plants look bright or interesting at dusk or in the evening.

One of my most beloved plants is a poet’s jasmine Jasminum officinale, a vine I purchased from a local nursery years ago. This vine blooms in part shade or even full shade. It has delicate, ferny foliage. The star-shaped, white flowers of poet’s jasmine bloom during summer, and its subtle fragrance scents the evening air. Once established, you can propagate cuttings and give them away to friends.

Never forget to add clumps of white flowers. White flowers not only make the moonlight garden pop; they also help Florida gardens feel cooler in hot weather. One showstopper is pinwheel jasmine. Pinwheel jasmine grows in sun or shade, making it an ideal plant for gardens like mine that have both sunny and shady areas. Pinwheel jasmine shrubs bloom with profuse, white flowers that fall to the ground after blooming. When not in bloom, the plant’s glossy, green leaves provide interest.

Include many different colors and textures of green. Different shades of green provide a beautiful and subtle backdrop for your moonlight garden plants. Plant leaves can be light green, dark green, shiny, variegated, and even lime or chartreuse.

Even in deep shade, pinwheel jasmine is a heavy bloomer. Notice how the sun shines through the jasmine's leaves and branches
Even in deep shade, pinwheel jasmine is a heavy bloomer. Notice how the sun shines through the jasmine’s leaves and branches

Some of my favorite green plants for moonlight gardens include ferns, with delicate and arching light and dark green leaves, spiky irises, glossy ‘Awabuki’ viburnums, large palm trees (think fishtail palm or the graceful Areca palm), peace lilies, shell ginger, dark mondo grass, foxtail ferns, and Jasmine minima groundcover.

Variegated shefflera, variegated Jasmine minima, and even ‘Gold Dust’ yellow and green crotons can liven up a dark, shaded area or a sunny location. As a bonus, ‘Gold Dust’ crotons are resistant to nematodes, making them a great plant for Florida’s sandy soils where nematodes are often present.

Check out some of the beautiful caladium cultivars, and sprinkle the tubers throughout your garden. Caladiums always surprise me because I often forget where I planted them. You can find pink, green, white, and red caladiums in fancy- or lance-leaf types. Caladiums also come in a variety of sizes. Some of the cultivars released by the University of Florida include ‘White Butterfly’, ‘Tapestry’, ‘Florida White Ruffles’ and ‘Florida Moonlight.’

Spice up the moonlight effect by adding clay, plastic or concrete pots that are either white in color, or that contain green leafy plants, or white or yellow flowers. Consider adding a white or pale pink arbor for vines to climb. Moonflower vines grow easily from seed and resemble a large, white morning glory.

Children especially like to grow moonflowers, waiting to see the flowers unfurl in the evening. The surprise is the pale, cream-colored star in the center of the flowers. Grow small plants such as jewel orchids and Cryptanthus in pots and place them in your garden or on your patio. Another name for Cryptanthus is earth stars. How appropriate for a moonlight garden!

When designing your moonlight garden, choose a few plants based on height and light preferences. I like to plant large groups of a single kind of plant, so the groupings make a big impact.

Now is a great time to plant a beautiful, Florida moonlight garden.

I would love to hear about your favorite moonlight garden plants. Please send me an email with your suggestions.

References for this column were:
Leymaster, Keri. (n.d.). Creating a Tropical Shade Garden. UF/IFAS Extension Orange County. Fact Sheet Horticulture – 009. Retrieved from

http://orange.ifas.ufl.edu/res_hort/pdffiles/Factsheets/013%20Plants%20for%20Tropical%20Shade.pdf.

Park Brown, Sydney. (2015). Landscaping in Florida Shade. IFAS Publication Number ENH-1196. Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved from http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep457.

Park Brown, Sydney. (2014). Gardening with Perennials in Florida. IFAS Publication Number ENH-68. Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved from http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/mg035.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County. For additional information, contact or (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Published November 9, 2016

The truth about bromeliads and mosquitoes

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Zika is a concern in Florida and bromeliad plants have been singled out as potential sources of mosquitos that carry this virus.

Bromeliad plants produce a fold of leaves commonly referred to as a “tank” where water will collect.

And, several types of mosquito larvae (the young, non-flying aquatic phase), including larvae of the Aedes family of mosquitoes, which can potentially transmit Zika as flying adults, can be found in these tanks.

A water-filled tank of a bromeliad, in which mosquito immatures stages, including A. albopictus, occur. (Courtesy of Dr. Phil Lounibos)
A water-filled tank of a bromeliad, in which mosquito immatures stages, including A. albopictus, occur. (Courtesy of Dr. Phil Lounibos)

Inevitably, the question arises that if bromeliads can hold water, can they harbor mosquito larvae? Quite simply, the answer is yes. However, anything that holds water can hold mosquito larvae.

Subsequently, the next logical question is: Should bromeliads be removed from the landscape to get rid of aquatic mosquito habitat?

Let’s explore some facts before jumping to answer that question.

First, anything that holds water – even a bottle cap – can be a potential mosquito larvae habitat.

Pet dishes, birdbaths, toys, tires, downspouts, gutters, even other types of plants – anything that holds water can harbor mosquitos.

This is Florida, and water is generally everywhere.

Eliminating all sources of mosquito larvae is difficult, if not impossible around the house, but we can limit much of the problem by emptying standing water and not allowing it to collect in the first place.

In the same vein, eliminating bromeliads from the landscape won’t eliminate all of the mosquitos that can carry Zika.

While you can remove your bromeliads, which will eliminate one place where larvae can live in your yard, you’ll need to remove any other item where water can collect, as well.

If you can’t get rid of all of those places, why remove your bromeliads when there are ways to limit larvae potentially associated with them?

Also, keep in mind that mosquitos, as adults, fly.

So that mosquito that bites you in your yard could have come from quite a distance.

It is possible to keep our much-loved bromeliads and limit larval habitats at the same time.

Simply inspect your bromeliads every three days to seven days and either drain out any standing water with a turkey baster, tip the bromeliad if it’s in a pot, or flush out the tank with water from a hose.

Make sure the water from the tank is flushed into a dry spot so that any potential larvae will dry out and die, and not just be transferred to another body of water. You can also apply Mosquito Bits® every seven days to the bromeliad tanks.

This product is very safe for your plants and the environment – it’s made from a bacterium that specifically kills mosquito larvae. You can purchase these at a reasonable price at many garden centers, or order them online.

Professionals can use Altosid Pro-G, which is an insect growth regulator. This product can be applied to the tanks every 30 days. For both products, which are quite safe and effective, simply follow the label directions.

There are other simple and effective ways of controlling mosquitoes in your home landscape.

Eliminating your bromeliads might reduce the population a bit, but it won’t eliminate them entirely. Exercise good landscape maintenance and take a look around your yard every three days to seven days, and be sure to empty standing water anywhere you see it.

Continue to enjoy your bromeliads, but treat them like the rest of your landscape plants and maintain them properly by simply flushing out the tanks frequently or using a larvae control product.

Water and mosquitoes are part of Florida’s landscape, as are the beautiful bromeliads that grace us with splashes of color and unusual textures.

It’s easy to keep our beloved bromeliads and protect ourselves from mosquitos at the same time.

Dr. Whitney Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension Director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published October 12, 2016

Pollinator gardens attract bees and other wildlife

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Obviously, pollinators are important.

An estimated one-third of the food we eat comes from plants pollinated by animals.

Bees, wasps, flies and hummingbirds are vital pollinators.

Calamint resembles rosemary and has tiny white flowers. The leaves have a sweet, minty fragrance. (Photos courtesy of Nicole Pinson)
Calamint resembles rosemary and has tiny white flowers. The leaves have a sweet, minty fragrance.
(Photos courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

Scientists have found that it takes eight or more visits by a bee to a watermelon flower to produce a single watermelon.

So, please consider planting a pollinator garden to increase populations of these beneficial insects.

Similar to butterfly gardens, pollinator gardens incorporate the use of plants, such as host and nectar plants, that attract butterflies. However, they differ in that selected plants also attract other pollinators such as native bees, flies and hummingbirds.

Bees need nectar and pollen, both of which are provided by flowers. Nectar serves as the primary source of carbohydrates for bees, and pollen is essential to brood production, young bee development and hive growth. Interestingly, all pollen is not created equal, and “pollen from different floral sources has different quantities of each component” (Ellis, et al, 2013).

Recognizing that pollinators are important, local Lutz Girl Scout Troop No. 360 worked in partnership with the UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County to plant a pollinator demonstration garden at the extension office while earning their Silver Awards.

Girl Scout Troop No. 360 planted a pollinator demonstration garden.
Girl Scout Troop No. 360 planted a pollinator demonstration garden.

Silver Awards encourage the cadettes to design their own community project and understand how they impact their community. Obtaining the award requires completing an approved cause and issue service project that is at least 50 volunteer hours.

The purpose of this project is to teach youth and their families about the importance of pollinators, and the relationship between plants and pollinators. This project promotes Florida-Friendly LandscapingTM principles, especially with regard to reducing stormwater runoff, attracting wildlife, reducing pollinator risk when using pesticides, and beautifying our community while preserving and conserving resources such as water.

In addition to planting the pollinator garden, the Girl Scouts wrote newspaper articles and press releases, installed micro-irrigation, created a pollinator display and provided docent tours to the public.

The tiny, white flowers of frogfruit attract many different pollinators. The plant also serves as a larval host plant for white peacock butterflies.
The tiny, white flowers of frogfruit attract many different pollinators. The plant also serves as a larval host plant for white peacock butterflies.

The Girl Scouts learned that there are many plants that attract pollinators. Examples of great Florida-Friendly LandscapingTM plants include buttonsage lantana Lantana involucrata, blanket flower Gaillardia pulchella, pink swamp milkweed Asclepias incarnata, frogfruit Phyla nodiflora, rayless sunflower Helianthus radula, calamint Calamintha ashei, and white top aster Oclemena reticulata.

Pollinators are important because they help increase fruit set, quality and size, and these benefits can also translate to economic impacts. The U.S. Department of Agriculture in 2014 estimated bee pollinated commodities accounted for $20 billion in annual U.S. agricultural production. Pollinator gardens are unique and these gardens can teach residents and youth how to attract pollinators to their landscapes, while reducing negative environmental impacts associated with landscape management practices.

You can visit the extension office to learn about plants that attract pollinators. The extension office is open Monday through Friday from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Visitors can tour the pollinator garden, along with the Bette S. Walker Discovery Garden and the perennial garden, for free.

Children and their parents can check out pollinator backpacks that contain insect and flower sketch plates, field identification cards, magnifying lenses and books. There is something new to see each time you visit the gardens, and we hope you are inspired to create a pollinator garden of your own.

Sources for this column:

  • Sanford, M. and J. Ellis. (2016). Beekeeping: Watermelon Production. IFAS Publication Number ENY-154. Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved from http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/aa/aa09100.pdf.
  • Ellis, A., J. Ellis, M. O’Malley and C. Nalen. (2013). The Benefits of Pollen to Honey Bees. IFAS Publication Number ENY-152. Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved from http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/in868.

For additional information, contact or (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is an Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County. The author gratefully acknowledges Lynn Barber for contributing to this article. Barber is a Florida-Friendly LandscapingTM Agent, UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County.

Revised September 22, 2016

Growing beautiful tomatoes in Central Florida

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Tomatoes are one of the most popular veggies to eat, but trying to grow them can be one of the most frustrating experiences for new gardeners in Central Florida.

Luckily, it doesn’t have to be exasperating, and it can be quite fun.

With just a little bit of knowledge, any home gardener can grow beautiful and bountiful tomatoes.

For successful tomatoes, there are a few simple concepts to keep in mind.

First, remember the one principle that underpins them all for Florida-Friendly Landscaping (and veggie growing, too); plant the right plant in the right place. I normally add one more caveat to that phrase when it comes to veggie gardening: Plant at the right time.

Tomatoes exemplify this principle. Put them in the right place at the right time and you’ll get great tomatoes with little effort.

With Florida’s warm weather, we can plant tomatoes in late winter and early spring – but not in the summer.

In Florida, we can have two crops of tomatoes — not just one.

Try to be patient, and plant them after the threat of frost has passed.

Growing healthy tomatoes in Central Florida is as easy as choosing the right plant and growing it at the right place — and at the right time. (Courtesy of UF/IFAS Tyler Jones )
Growing healthy tomatoes in Central Florida is as easy as choosing the right plant and growing it at the right place — and at the right time.
(Courtesy of UF/IFAS Tyler Jones
)

Remember, you can start seeds indoors and transplant when the soil warms, and you can use hanging baskets and containers. That allows you to move them around for protection if a frost is coming.

Another key concept is to ensure you plant early enough to get fruit before the summer temperatures get high – once the nighttime temperatures hit 80 degrees, your tomatoes are done.

There are some exceptions though like grape and cherry tomatoes, which can often tolerate the summertime temperatures.

Larger-fruited varieties will not endure the high heat and humidity that ushers in pathogens that like our tomatoes as much as we do.

Do a little research on the variety you choose – do they need 70 days to mature? Or do they need 80 days?

Let this info help guide your planting schedule.

For most of Pasco County, planting tomatoes in late February is usually a good bet to avoid frost in the spring. Late September or early October is a good time to plant in the fall to avoid cold damage before fruiting.

Besides planting at the right time, make sure you plant in the right place. Tomatoes need plenty of sunlight, so put them in a sunny location where your garden gets at least 4 hours to 6 hours of full sunlight daily.

And, since tomatoes prefer soil pH to be between 6.0-6.5, a soil test is a great idea before you plant.

Your local UF/IFAS Extension office can help you with a soil test kit.

If you need to adjust your soil with organic matter, be sure you do so well in advance of planting, sometimes months in advance if you’re using manures.

Also, give your tomatoes the space they need. Some tomatoes, called intermediates, become very large plants that easily topple over – these need support and possible pruning.

While they’ll produce fruit over several months, their size can be a limiting factor. Determinate varieties are best for those with limited space – these are more like small bushes. Staking or using a trellis is good for both types though, as it’s important to keep the fruit off the group.

Choose varieties bred for Central Florida’s climate. They’ll be more tolerant of common insect and disease problems.

When you purchase tomatoes, look for the two to three-letter abbreviations on the label.

These abbreviations refer to the more common problems and let you know those plants have some resistance to that particular problem.

For example, if you see “VF” on the label, those cultivars are resistant to verticillium and fusarium wilt, both common problems in Florida.

To care for your tomatoes once they are in the garden, scout early and often for problems. It’s OK to remove a sick looking plant to prevent spreading a potential disease to the others. Catching an insect problem early is much better than later as well – we can control insects and diseases more effectively when they are caught in the earliest stages.

Scouting early and often affords us that opportunity.

Tomatoes do need fertilizer, especially in our nutrient-poor soils.

Since organic matter/compost is not fertilizer but a soil stabilizer, applications of fertilizer are required to produce healthy plants.

Fertilize soon after planting, then on a regular schedule through the growing season using a 6-8-8 or similar formulation. A well-balanced fertilizer doesn’t have to be expensive to be effective. You can use liquids or granulars, just go for a controlled-release version so that you’ll get the most bang for your buck, and you won’t contribute to nutrient pollution in waterways through leaching or runoff during heavy rains.

Keep your plants watered with one inch to two inches of water per application. Soaking them is preferable to frequent light watering. Mulching can help lock in moisture and prevent weeds – just keep the mulch a few inches away from the stems of the plants and no more than 2 inches to 3 inches deep. Planting the right plant in the right place at the right time is all it takes for successful tomatoes in Central Florida.

Dr. Whitney Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension Director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Make your own vegetable stock

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I love to cook, and this year I am trying to cook more meals at home.

I find chopping vegetables — like weeding — to be truly cathartic, and preparing a tasty, elegant meal for myself is one of life’s simple pleasures.

While recently cooking a mushroom barley soup, I thought of making my own stock.

Celery stalks and leaves add flavor to soups and stocks. The leaves can also make an interesting garnish. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)
Celery stalks and leaves add flavor to soups and stocks. The leaves can also make an interesting garnish.
(Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

We chop our veggies and add them to meals. And, some of us are smart enough to save those kitchen scraps and throw them on the compost pile, with the understanding that our kitchen scraps will add nutrients to the compost pile, rendering them into a rich, fertile soil we can later add to our vegetables or our landscape beds.

To make those kitchen scraps go even further, use them for stock first and then compost them. This provides two uses for the same valuable “scraps.”

Making stock is easy, and it lends a delicious base to soups.

When I cook, I keep a zip-top bag next to the wood chopping block for tops of carrots, onion skins and tomato cores.

For my soup, the bag was stuffed with onion and garlic skins, carrot tops and bottoms, celery stems and leaves, and mushroom stems. (As an aside, I love to use celery leaves in dishes and as a garnish.)

If you have space in the freezer, you can gradually accumulate a good mixture of vegetable scraps over time, to get a better blend of flavors.

Remember: vegetables in the cabbage family in particular – turnips, cabbage, cauliflower and broccoli – are quite strong-flavored and can be overpowering.

Once you have a bag of frozen scraps, follow these directions, by Dr. Mary Keith, an expert in nutrition and health, to make your stock:

  • Place clean kitchen scraps in a pot and cover with water.
  • Bring to a boil and then simmer uncovered from 15 minutes to 1 ½ hours. (The longer cooking will release more flavor if you have the time).
  • Squeeze or strain all the water out of those vegetables. (Just straining them makes a clearer stock, while pressing them will often make a cloudy but thicker stock.) You can use a wooden spoon in a sieve for pressing, but a potato masher would work well, too.
  • Use the stock immediately in soups or freeze and save for later.

Stock will keep for three days to five days in the refrigerator or eight months in the freezer. Freeze it in quantities that you will use at one time, so that you can thaw just enough for your next recipe.

After you’ve made your meal with fresh vegetables, use the pieces to make your stock.

By making homemade stock, you’ll create delicious meals, add more minerals and maybe a few vitamins to your food, and use more of the produce you’ve purchased. You will also be able to make it with little or no salt, a big benefit since most commercial stocks and broths are very high in sodium.

Once you’ve made stock with your veggies, you can discard them on your compost pile — giving you more bang for your buck.

You can also enjoy enjoy a trio of accomplishments — cooking meals at home, making fresh stock and composting.

Bon appétit!

For additional information, contact or (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is an Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County. Dr. Mary Keith is extension agent emeritus, Foods, Nutrition and Health, University of Florida, Hillsborough County Extension.

Published July 20, 2016

Heirloom seeds preserve heritage, save money

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As the warm-season vegetable garden season draws to a close in Central Florida, there’s still much work to be done in preparation for the next planting season. This is a great time to collect heirloom seeds, which can save money and provide an easily renewable source of your favorite plant varieties.

An heirloom variety is an older cultivar maintained in relatively isolated regions, even one’s own backyard.

Heirlooms aren’t used for wide-scale agriculture production any longer, but they are often quite resistant to pests and weather extremes.

Collecting heirloom seeds from the vegetables you grow in your garden can save money. Heirloom seeds can also be passed from one generation to another, giving you a chance to save seeds and a piece of your heritage at the same time. (Whitney C. Elmore/Photo)
Collecting heirloom seeds from the vegetables you grow in your garden can save money. Heirloom seeds can also be passed from one generation to another, giving you a chance to save seeds and a piece of your heritage at the same time.
(Whitney C. Elmore/Photo)

Heirloom plants harbor lots of genetic diversity, which means they are unlikely to yield consistent colors, size and even flavor, but that doesn’t mean they cannot be flavorful, pretty and highly prized in the home garden. More importantly, heirloom varieties can be nurtured, selected, preserved and handed down from one family member to the next for many generations leaving a link to past heritages.

The goal with heirloom preservation is to ensure all of the cultivar’s genes are transmitted from each generation to the next leaving us with a large gene pool – and lots of variation.

The basics of saving heirloom seeds starts with nurturing every plant into maturity, except for any diseased plants or ones yielding fruit or veggies we don’t like.

We then harvest the fruit, clean the seeds of flesh, dry the seeds, then store the seeds in the hope of germinating those same cultivars the next season or years down the road.

Beans, cowpeas, even tomatoes and peppers make excellent plants for seed preservation. A few considerations: Hybrid plants will not provide seeds bearing the same qualities as the plant from which they came – seedlings from these plants will have some, but not all, of the qualities of the parent plant.

If you are interested in saving seeds, be sure to grow enough plants to get a large seed batch and avoid inbreeding. For corn, you need 100 ears, and for tomatoes, a dozen plants to get enough quality seed to store.

Also, be sure to allow the fruit to mature on the plant before harvesting; be selective when you harvest. Choose only the best of the fruits from the plants which you favor for specific traits. Seeds that collapse when they’ve been dried are not viable. Throw them away. For example, squash, cucumber and melon seeds should be hard and plump when dry, not shriveled.

When you have harvested the seeds, be sure to immediately clean and dry them. For tomatoes, rinse the seeds and wipe them with a rough towel to remove the gel-like fleshy coat which prevents germination. For most any other plant, remove the flesh from the seeds as best you can, then lay them out on newspaper to dry. Any moldy seeds should be discarded. Even a food dehydrator can be useful in drying seeds. But, a warm, sunny spot for a few days will do just fine.

Once the seeds are dry (usually hard, but not brittle), place them in well-marked envelopes (cultivar, date, traits), wrap the envelope in aluminum foil, place them in a sealed plastic storage bag and store them in a refrigerator.

Place small amount of seeds in each envelope just to ensure a bad batch doesn’t ruin the whole bunch.

Before planting stored seeds for the next season, bring them up to room temperature in a closed container on the counter for two days. This will help prevent thermal shock.

Planting seeds in the garden can be great fun and provide quality time with family. Preserving seeds for the next season and years to come can serve as a time capsule of generations past. Consider saving your heirloom seeds — and, at the same time, save a piece of your heritage.

Published June 22, 2016

Growing bulbs in the Florida garden

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Did you know you can grow bulbs year after year in Florida?

When we talk about bulbs, there are “true bulbs” and bulb-like plants. Your true bulbs are those plants that contain all the plant parts, such as roots, an underground stem, a flower bud and fleshy leaves. These plant parts are stored in an underground structure called a bulb. These underground storage structures make them very tough.

Caladiums are a favorite in the Florida garden. Caladiums are a tuber, similar to potatoes. (Photos courtesy of Nicole Pinson)
Caladiums are a favorite in the Florida garden. Caladiums are a tuber, similar to potatoes.
(Photos courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

Examples of true bulbs include lilies, tulips, society garlic and amaryllis. Other “bulb-like” plants such as gladiolus and caladiums are comprised of corms, tubers, tuberous roots or rhizomes. For generalization purposes, most plant guides refer to both true bulbs and bulb-like plants as bulbs.

Picking the right bulbs for Florida can be a bit tricky. But, once you learn which bulbs are best for Florida, you can easily grow them and have color throughout the year. Not only do bulbs provide beautiful flowers, but they also have strappy leaves and interesting foliage. The different shades of green add structure, variety, texture and contrast to the garden.

Because of our tropical and subtropical growing conditions, you will want to plant bulbs that are adapted to our region for the best success. A great resource is the publication Bulbs for Florida available at UFDC.ufl.edu/IR00002886/0001. This guide provides information on selecting, planting, caring for and propagating bulbs. Table 1 lists bulbs that are most desirable and easiest to grow in Florida. Stick to this, and you will add diversity and beauty to your landscape.

Growing bulbs and bulb-like plants adds texture and interest to the garden.
Growing bulbs and bulb-like plants adds texture and interest to the garden.

Some of my favorite bulbs are African lily (also called agapanthus), amaryllis, blood lily, caladium, rain lilies and crinum. Be sure to read the cultural notes for the bulbs you choose, because the notes include additional tips on care, location and pest control.

If you want to experiment, try planting some bulbs from Table 2, or as UF/IFAS refers to them, “Bulbs for the Avid Gardener.” These bulbs may be a bit more challenging, but they are worth trying. One bulb that I am going to try from this list is a favorite cut flower- Alstroemeria.

Avoid growing bulbs — or giving bulbs as gifts — that do not grow well in Florida due to our temperatures and warm winters. These bulbs, such as tulips and some lilies, will not receive the cold temperatures they need to grow well and bloom.

Some of my favorite Florida gardens contain bulbs that are planted in clumps among other landscape plants. Imagine looking out at a backyard garden and seeing shell ginger, crinums, irises and amaryllis among traditional shrubs such as hibiscus or plumbago.

I use bulbs to brighten shady spots and add them to bouquets. Many times, I am surprised by them when they pop up. Most bulbs grow well in sun to part shade.

Amaryllis is a bulb that can be easily grown in Florida. After a few years, divide it and share with others, or use it to fill flowerpots or other areas of your yard.
Amaryllis is a bulb that can be easily grown in Florida. After a few years, divide it and share with others, or use it to fill flowerpots or other areas of your yard.

When planting bulbs, make sure to plant the right side up. Follow spacing and fertilizer recommendations. Bulbs such as amaryllis will produce seed heads after flowering, and if left on the plant, they will reduce the amount of flowers next year. In order to have more blooms, cut off old flowers and seed heads. However, resist the urge to cut off yellow leaves until they turn completely brown because these leaves are making and storing food or energy for the bulb.

Eastern lubber grasshoppers are one of the biggest pest problems with bulbs like lilies and crinums. Control them when they are young nymphs, rather than when they are large grasshoppers. Handpicking is the least toxic method of control. When young, these grasshoppers congregate on the plants in the morning and evening, and this makes them easy to remove. Pests such as aphids and mealybugs can be controlled with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Fungal problems, such as rust and anthracnose, often develop during periods of high rainfall or are spread by wind. If the disease persists, apply a fungicide for disease control.

Bulbs add color and interest to the garden, and they are easily propagated. Depending on the bulb, you can propagate them by division, offsets, bulblets or cuttings. Plus, you will have bulbs to share with friends and family, or to transplant and fill up pots or sparse areas of your garden. Growing bulbs in Florida is easy and enjoyable.

For more information on this topic, check the following reference, which was a primary source for this column: “Is this a bulb? The difference between bulbs, corms, rhizomes, and other bulb-like plants.” Visit GardeningSolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/ornamentals/is-this-a-bulb.html.

Nicole Pinson is an Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County. She gratefully acknowledges Judy Gates, UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County Master Gardener for her help in preparing this article. For additional information, you can reach Pinson at (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Published June 1, 2016