The Laker/Lutz News

Serving Pasco since 1981/Serving Lutz since 1964

Nature Notes

Worried about your plants turning brown?

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Seeing some of your plants turn brown in the winter can be a bit concerning.

It’s good to know that it’s normal for many plants, such as turfgrasses, to go dormant and turn brown in the winter.

The plant is protecting itself during cold temperatures and lower light levels.

Vegetation that’s injured by the cold can turn brown, but resist the urge to cut it back or to add fertilizer to damaged plants. Wait until you’re sure that warm temperatures have returned before taking action to address weather damage. (University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences)

Typically, plants will recover once spring arrives.

However, hard freezes may injure or potentially kill some plants.

The best way to protect your plants from cold injury, or death, is to select plants for your landscape based on the USDA Hardiness Zone Map that outlines which plants are most likely to survive in a given zone (https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/).

Florida is a wonderful place to grow a wide variety of plants, but not all of them thrive in every part of the state. For instance, a Christmas palm does well in South Florida, but won’t survive the winters in Central Florida.

Also, just a few miles can mean a big difference in temperature variations between our coastal and inland locations.

A principle of Florida-Friendly Landscaping is to plant the right plant in the right place. Not only does that principle apply to location in the landscape; it also applies to your climate zone.

Even though cold damage can cause injury to many plants, don’t lose hope. There are a few considerations to keep in mind to help your plant recover from cold injury.

It’s helpful to know that soils that have frozen even slightly, like in a container, can lose a lot of moisture and cold-damaged plants still need water.

After a freeze, check the soil around injured plants to determine if they are dry or not. If dry, irrigate until the soil is moist, but not wet.

It is tempting to fertilize plants after injury to stimulate new growth, but it’s not a good idea to “tell” an already injured plant to expend energy to grow — especially when the risk of more damage from another freeze is possible.

Resist the urge. Don’t fertilize until later in the season after the plant has shown obvious signs of recovery and is actively growing. That typically happens in late spring or even as late as summer.

The principle of patience also applies to pruning.

Cold-damaged plants typically look terrible with brown and even black, dead tissue. But, pruning tells the plant to grow, so put down the pruners.

Extensive growth during recovery robs the plant of vital energy and nutrients, and leaves new, tender tissue vulnerable to more damage from cold weather. Once the threat of frost or freeze passes, it’s safe to remove dead plant tissue.

If your lawn happens to be the common St. Augustinegrass, and it suffers extensive cold damage — which typically only occurs when exposed to temperatures around 20 degrees Fahrenheit — it will most likely die. Bahiagrass will rebound when warmer weather returns. If the lawn turns brown and stays brown, and appears to rot away, you’ll want to re-sod or re-seed, depending on the turfgrass species, to reestablish the lawn.

Some cold-injured ornamental plants may take years to recover from the roots, such as hibiscus.

Cold protection is relatively simple though. For most ornamental plants in pots, simply move them into a protected area when temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit are predicted.

If the plant is not easily moved, a bed sheet or blanket makes a good cover. Just ensure the cover drapes all the way to the ground so that heat from the ground can be trapped under the cover protecting the plant. Place a rock or brick on the cover to anchor the cover, but don’t allow it to weigh down the plant and cause damage.

Additionally, if you can erect a simple scaffold for the blanket to rest on just above the foliage, there’s less chance of cold injury since frost that rests on the blanket that touches the foliage can still cause damage through heat loss.

Many homeowners “lollipop” the blanket around the trunk or base of the plant cutting off the flow of heat from the soil, so don’t make this major mistake.

Plastic sheeting can be used, in a pinch, but it must be removed before sunlight strikes the plant in the morning or you risk burning the plant underneath, which happens rather quickly.

There are some commercial frost clothes that also can help prevent cold injury, but they must be used in the same way mentioned above.

With any cover, remove it once the temperature is above freezing early in the morning to allow the light to reach the plant, reduce the chance of sun scald, and get more heat into the plant.

Cold damage is not always preventable, but it is possible for plants to recover with a little TLC. In most cases, the plant just needs to be left alone to recover on its own time.

For more information about reestablishing your lawn, go to: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/lh013. For more information on cold protection for ornamental plants, refer to: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/topic_landscapes_and_cold.

By Whitney C. Elmore

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published March 11, 2020

Gifts for the garden

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Wondering what to give the gardener in your life?

Here are few ideas that may be helpful to you.

Most gardeners have pruners they carry with them as they work in the garden. But, how often do they sharpen their pruners? You don’t need to take them anywhere or pay to get them sharpened – they are very easy to sharpen yourself.

A garden cart or wheelbarrow makes garden chores easier. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

For less than $25, you can buy your gardening friend a standard, pocket-sized sharpener, such as this Swiss Istor sharpener. It is lightweight, compact and easy-to-use. Carry it your pocket, apron or toolkit, so it’s ready to sharpen pruners on the go.

If you’re in the market for a planter, you might consider repurposing a cattle trough or stock tank. I’ve seen a lot of restaurants and shops doing that.

These troughs are sturdy, attractive and can be purchased in different sizes. They make it easy to reach plants without bending over, if you buy one that’s a few feet tall.

The sky is the limit regarding the types of plants and combinations a gardener may create in these containers. I have a stock tank on my list this year. It’s 49 gallons and measures 48 inches by 24 inches by 12 inches.

My plan is to stuff it with trellised vegetables, lettuces, herbs and edible flowers. As a bonus, the edible flowers will attract pollinators to the raised bed garden, which helps with pest control and fruit production.

Another great garden gift is a wheelbarrow or a garden cart to make it easier to move mulch, clippings, soil and debris around the garden — which can be a backbreaking chore.

Many gifts – such as plants, gift cards to local nurseries and pollinator-friendly garden signs – are a welcome addition to gardens.

Carts and wheelbarrows are versatile and useful in gardens large or small.

Houseplants also make a great gift.

Many people – including younger gardeners – are drawn to houseplants because they look attractive, can be easy to care for and help improve indoor air quality. I prefer a few large pots with lush, sturdy plants. But, moving these pots – for example, sweeping around them, moving them according to seasonal light changes, or taking them outside for a long soak and to rinse the leaves – can be cumbersome.

Rolling plant caddies can make that job much easier.

You can get planter pot movers for less than $25. Pick plant caddies in a standard color, such as dark brown or black, so they blend in with most pots.

Do you need some inspiration about houseplants? Check websites, social media pages and your local library for “houseplant groups,” “houseplant décor” or “houseplants.”

Bird feeders are great gifts, too. Wrap the bird feeder along with a good bird seed mix so the recipient can hang the feeder immediately. The birds will thank you, too.

Here’s an idea I picked up in Arizona a few years ago, when I visited a beautiful garden in the desert.

They hung prisms from shrubs and small trees, which reflected sunlight and made little rainbows around the garden, adding to the garden’s charm.

Backyard bird feeders and birdbaths make a nice gift for any gardener or wildlife enthusiast.

Prisms and other suncatchers make great gifts. Here’s a tip: If the prisms don’t come with a cord, be sure to include some heavy duty clear fishing line, or similar cord, to go along with your prism.

Of course, seasonal plants are a nice gift idea, too.

A pot of amaryllis or paperwhites bring holiday cheer to any room. They are easy to grow for any skill level. Many local nurseries and box stores carry these during the holidays. They make a nice addition to holiday décor, whether at home or at the office. As a bonus, amaryllis may be planted outside after blooming.

Garden books, flowerpots, pot clips, pot feet, macramé plant holders (yes, macramé is in style) and hose guards are all nice gifts. Garden signs that show your gardening friend’s appreciation for pollinators, birds and bees are a nice touch, too, especially if placed near a sidewalk or in a school or community garden plot.

When the garden is all spruced up, weeded and mulched (when is that ever done?!), sit back and relax with a cold drink. Place universal beverage/drink holder stakes around the garden and near patio areas and tables to encourage sitting for a moment and enjoying the garden on your own, or with pets, friends and family.

Of course, you can never go wrong with a gift card. Chances are the gardener in your life can always use one more plant! Gift cards to local nurseries help support local businesses and can give your recipient the option of all kinds of garden gifts, whether it’s a new plant, seeds, a tool, garden ornament or soil.

For additional information, contact or (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published December 18, 2019

Controlling noxious weeds in your yard

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Central Florida is home to some of the most diverse plant life in the state.

Cool, dry winters and hot, wet summers create a transitional zone where a variety of plants thrive, or can at least get by with a little help from their owners.

With the good news, comes the bad news — there are dozens of weeds that cause grief for property owners and managers.

Brazilian Peppertree. Image used in the 2014 Research Discoveries report. (Courtesy of UF/IFAS Communications)

Noxious weeds, which can out-compete native species, can be quite damaging.

In Central Florida, three common noxious weeds of great concern are: Brazilian peppertree, air potato vine, and cogongrass.

Brazilian peppertree was introduced perhaps more than 100 years ago as an ornamental plant.

Common along roads and canals, Brazilian peppertree has destroyed much of the native, protective mangroves and pine flatlands.

While attractive, its ability to overtake native vegetation and its potentially hazardous sap — which can cause severe rashes and lung irritation — make it undesirable.

Herbicide applications are effective for controlling Brazilian peppertree, but only when timed right and applied correctly.

The “cut stump method” of herbicide application is an excellent method for control.

Simply follow these steps:

  • Cut the tree stump as low to the ground as possible.
  • Within 5 minutes of making the cut, apply a herbicide labeled for use on Brazilian peppertree (with the active ingredients: triclopyr at the label rate, or glyphosate at 41% active ingredient or higher formulation, as ready-to-use formulas won’t be effective) just inside of the bark layer on the living tissue.
  • Cut the trees only when they are not fruiting; if seeds are visible, use great care to not spread them to new locations.
  • Avoid the sap, and use proper protective gear with cutting or removing these plants.
  • Do not burn Brazilian peppertree due to the potential for hazardous fumes from the sap.

Brazilian peppertree also can be controlled with a basal bark herbicide application. Consult with your local Extension Office for details on this method.

University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences scientists were granted approval for the release of a biological control for use on Brazilian peppertree in 2019. An insect species of thrips feed on the new shoots of Brazilian peppertree and have been found to be host-specific, meaning they only damage Brazilian peppertree.

Controlling other noxious weeds
Air potato vine is an extremely aggressive vine that can grow several inches in a day making it capable of towering up into the tops of trees while out-competing native vegetation along the way.

Biological controls, combined with other integrated pest management approaches, such as herbicide use, mechanical (removal) and cultural methods (proper timing, application methods, seasonality, etc.) have been highly effective at controlling air potato vine.

The release of the Air Potato Beetle, in 2012, by the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Sciences, in conjunction with UF/IFAS, has helped limit the spread of air potato vine.

Cogongrass is common throughout the Southeastern United States, taking over roadsides, fields, pine-forested areas and pasturelands. It is difficult to control and can be a fire hazard, too.

Early detection of cogongrass infestations is the key to control. Small areas of infestation are easier to manage compared to larger ones. There are two herbicides with effectiveness against cogongrass: glyphosate and imazapyr. Glyphosate is most advisable, since it does not persist in the soil. Just keep in mind that both herbicides can kill non-target plants. Multiple herbicide applications over several years is often necessary for control with frequent monitoring required to quickly treat any regrowth following herbicide applications.

Again, your local Extension Office can provide more guidance on how to attack these types of noxious weeds and others wreaking havoc in your landscape.

For a list of noxious weeds, visit the UF/IFAS Invasive Plant Assessment by going to https://assessment.ifas.ufl.edu/.

By Whitney C. Elmore

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published December 04, 2019

Keeping your lawnmower and your lawn, in tip-top shape

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Fall and winter months generally mean less mowing is needed, so this is a great time to check and service your lawnmower.

For a longer mower deck life, clean the dirt and grass out from under your mower deck.
(Courtesy of Camila Guillen, UF/IFAS)

Our lawnmowers worked hard this summer — clipping grass between frequent rains.

Getting my lawnmower serviced is one thing on my fall to-do list.

And, it may be on your to-do list, too.

So, I talked with Bob Latimer, a master gardener volunteer, for some advice on how to keep a lawnmower in top shape.

He offers the following suggestions:

  • Maintain your mower according to the owner’s manual. (Check the manual that came with the mower, or look for a manual for that model online).
  • Be sure to buy the correct type of mower for your type of grass. For example, UF/IFAS recommends a reel mower for fine-textured Bermudagrass kept at less than 1-inch high.
  • Check the owner’s manual for the proper setting of the mower deck. Standard St. Augustinegrass cultivars and bahiagrass may need a higher mower deck to cut the thick blades.
  • Keep in mind that gas-powered, self-propelled mowers may be better for large lawns. Battery and electric mowers may be used for smaller lawns.
  • Check the engine oil before you start the mower and refill the engine oil as needed. Non-ethanol gas may be better for the lawnmower and the carburetor.
  • Only buy the amount of gas you need because storing gas in the gas tank may lead to poor running problems or non-starting issues.
  • Check the air filter, and clean or replace it as needed.
  • Inspect the gas tank for dirt, and clean as needed. Be aware that if your lawnmower doesn’t run well, it may be from dirt getting into the gas tank or carburetor.
  • Be sure to clean any dirt from around the gas tank before removing the gas cap. This helps prevents dirt from falling into the gas tank and getting into the carburetor.
  • For self-propelled mowers, locate a qualified service technician to lubricate the axle point that transfers power from the motor to the wheels.
  • Replace the spark plug per the owner’s manual.
  • After mowing, protect the life of your mower deck by washing the dirt and grass out from under it.

Now that your lawnmower is in tip-top shape, here are some tips to help you maintain your lawn.

Remember, mowing your yard at the right height is one of the easiest ways to keep your lawn healthy.

Standard cultivars of St. Augustinegrass, such as ‘Floratam’ and ‘Palmetto,’ should be mowed at 3.5 inches to 4 inches. Dwarf St. Augustinegrass cultivars, such as ‘Delmar’ and ‘Seville,’ should be mowed at 2 inches to 2.5 inches.

Bahiagrass prefers a mowing height of 3 inches to 4 inches, medium- to coarse-textured zoysiagrasses should be mowed at 2 inches to 2.5 inches, and fine-textured zoysiagrass may be maintained at heights below 1 inch. Bermudagrass grows best when kept at 0.5 inch to 1.5 inches.

Additional advice on lawn care can be found in the following reference, which was used for this column: Trenholm, L.E., J.B. Unruh, and J.L. Cisar. (2018). Mowing Your Florida Lawn. IFAS Publication Number ENH10. Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences.

For more information, email , or call (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

By Nicole Pinson

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County. Bob Latimer, UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County Master Gardener Volunteer, contributed to this column.

Published October 2, 2019

Create a native landscape — use right plant, right place

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Florida has an abundance of beautiful native plants.

There are vines, trees, shrubs, ground covers and a few palms that are native to the state, and can make excellent additions to the landscape.

Coontie, like all cycadas, has ancient origins, according to the University of Florida. This Florida plant, however, is the only cycad native to North America. (Courtesy of University of Florida/IFAS Communications)

Some of these natives even serve as food sources for local wildlife, such as butterflies and some bats, and some can help negate the harsh heat and sun, and reduce the potential for flooding.

However, just because a plant is native doesn’t mean it will thrive everywhere.

Remember: The Florida Friendly Landscaping principle of putting the right plant, right place still applies.

When plants are put in the wrong place, they won’t do as well and, in some cases, they become a problem.

For example, a native that loves the shade won’t survive in the bright sun, or a native that needs to be high and dry won’t make it with “wet feet.”

Putting native plants in the right spots will help prevent many disease and insect problems.

Like other plants, natives need routine maintenance to keep them looking good and living their best life. Occasional pruning and removal of dead tissue is just as necessary with natives as non-native, non-invasive exotics.

Beautyberry, according to the University of Florida, is also called American mulberry. It is native to flatwoods and hammocks, but because of birds, has been spread far and wide.

Planted and maintained correctly, natives will thrive in the Florida landscape.

As with all plants, plant them “high” with the uppermost root of the root ball just above the surrounding soil and mulch, with a layer 2 inches to 3 inches deep that’s no closer than 6 inches from the trunk or base of the plant.

Native plants also need to be watered frequently to get established. Research shows there’s no difference in the amount of water required for establishment between natives and non-native plants.

Keep in mind, however, the bigger the plant, the longer the establishment period; light, frequent hand-watering is best for establishment.

For a three-gallon or smaller plant, irrigate to deliver one gallon of water three to four times per week, for up to five months.

Muhly grass is a native ornamental perennial that produces clouds of flower stalks, according to the University of Florida.

For trees, irrigate with two gallons to three gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter, two to three times per week, for up to six months. Once new roots are observed, less supplemental irrigation is necessary unless there’s an extended period of drought.

There are many great native plants to consider for the landscape, but the basic Florida Friendly Landscaping principles still apply. As with all plants, natives should only be located where there’s enough room for them to grow to their full potential height and width. And, some natives can be aggressive or potentially weedy (i.e., Spanish needle) so be sure to consult the UF/IFAS Aquatic and Invasive Plant directory (http://plants.ifas.ufl.edu/plants-by-common-name/) prior to planting.

Consider planting natives such as bald cypress, muhly grass, coontie, and beautyberry, but only if it’s the right plant for the right place.

For a list of native plants to consider in your landscape, visit http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/ornamentals/native-plants.html.

By Whitney C. Elmore

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published August 14, 2019

Natural ‘enemies’ can attack garden pests

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Summer months may stress plants because we often see periods of increased rainfall and then periods of drought along with intense heat.

And, when plants are stressed, they may be more susceptible to pests.

When it comes to combating these pests, don’t forget there are many natural enemies that eat pest insects.

Aphids are the favorite food source of the adult convergent ladybeetle, Hippodamia convergens. (Courtesy of James Castner and Lyle Buss, University of Florida/IFAS)

These natural enemies, that are considered good or beneficial, include lacewings, ladybeetles, assassin bugs, spiders, hover flies, dragonflies and mantids.

Some commercial companies raise these natural enemies and ship them to gardeners who then release the insects for pest control.

Prior to purchasing natural enemies, identify the pest insect or mite. This will help you match the appropriate control with the pest.

If you need help identifying the pest, reach out to your local county Extension Office.

Natural enemies that are available from commercial companies may include predatory mites, predatory insects and parasitic wasps.

Ladybeetles (also known as ladybugs) are one of the most common beneficial insects purchased for home gardens. There are many different kinds, or species, of ladybeetles. Some eat specific pests such as aphids or whiteflies, which is why it is important to identify the pest so you know what beneficial insects to purchase or to encourage in your garden.

These beetles help home gardeners – and farmers – because they are phytophagous, which means they eat plant pests that feed on ornamental plants and crops, such as cabbage, corn, melons, peaches and potatoes. Some ladybeetles also attack the Asian citrus psyllid. It is this psyllid that transmits the bacterium that causes the citrus greening disease.

Ladybeetles undergo a complete metamorphosis, starting off as a tiny yellow or orange egg. They look very different as they go through their life cycle (egg, larva, pupa, adult).

However, many ladybeetles are field collected from natural areas where they aggregate (form large groups) and overwinter. They may carry parasites or pathogens. If they are collected when they are reproductively immature, they may be less effective as a biological control.

Adult ladybeetles will often fly away when released. Because of these reasons, it may be better to encourage ladybeetles through your gardening practices rather than purchasing adult ladybeetles.

Did you know that the larval form of the ladybeetle is a more voracious pest-eater than the adult form?

Ladybeetle larvae (some people say they look like small alligators) eat aphids, leafhoppers, mites, mealybugs, scales, thrips, whiteflies and some other insects, such as pest beetles, caterpillars and lacebugs.

There is a variety of colors and patterns among the larvae of various ladybeetle species.

The life cycle of the ladybeetle reminds us that insects may look very different as they grow and develop through their different stages. Because the larvae can look very different from the adults, knowing how to recognize insects can help you figure distinguish between the good insects from the pests.

Of the many different ladybeetles, some prey on specific plant pests. Delphastus catalinae eats whiteflies. Cryptolaemus montrouzieri, also known as the mealybug destroyer (my favorite) eats mealybugs. Hippodamia convergens larvae can eat between 30 and 50 aphids per day.

If you purchase adult ladybeetles, be sure to match the ladybeetle species that will eat the pest you’ve identified in your garden. Purchase ladybeetle larvae when possible, and buy from reputable companies that sell ladybeetles that are parasite- and disease-free. Check the Association of Natural Biocontrol Producers (ANBP) website for a list of companies.

There is a variety of colors and patterns among the larvae of various ladybeetle species.

Interestingly, the UF/IFAS Extension Entomology and Nematology department explains that ladybeetles are pollinators, and they will also feed on pollen, honeydew and nectar from flowers, when prey is scarce. But, in order to reproduce, they need to eat live prey.

You can encourage ladybeetles – and other beneficial insects – without having to buy them.

To attract the good bugs to your garden:

  • Plant a variety of flowers that bloom at different times of the year and that have different colors and flower shapes
  • Provide a refuge for insects by reducing or eliminating pesticide use.

Alternatively, soft pesticides, such as insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, spinosad and Bacillus thuringiensis (also known as Bt), may be used for many pests

The soft pesticides pose less risk to non-target organisms, such as beneficials and pollinators. Consider native plants that may attract specialized pollinators. Plants that contain structures called extrafloral nectaries are especially attractive to beneficial insects.

If you’d like more information about this, consult these sources, which were used in this column:

For additional information, email or call (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published July 24, 2019

Pointers for easy pest control in your garden

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Spring gardening is upon us, a time when many Florida gardeners plant vegetables, trees and landscape shrubs. If we have turf, we pay attention to bare spots, patches and insects.

As your plants and turf grow, be on the lookout for pests and problems. Try to notice issues early and get help from your local Extension office, if needed.

Consider using less toxic pest control methods and products around edible crops. (Nicole Pinson)

Some of the easiest and least expensive strategies for mitigating pest and disease problems include:
• Choose the right plant for the right place

  • Select plants for site conditions and pest resistance
  • Plant a diverse garden
  • Use mulch
  • Pull weeds
  • Sanitize tools, when needed
  • Encourage natural enemies (good bugs that prey on pest bugs)

Of course, there are recommendations for pest and weed control, both online and through word-of-mouth.

Some are anecdotal; others are research-based.

Research-based recommendations have been tested in Florida and these recommendations promote using products according to the label. For example, although moth balls are a registered pesticide with the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), their use in the landscape to control pests and nuisance wildlife is prohibited. It is against the law when moth balls are used in this way.

When using chemical products, start with the least toxic methods. These products generally cause less harm to non-target insects and animals, and some may be used in organic gardening.

These are some least toxic products and the pests they control:

  • Neem oil for soft-bodied insects, such as aphids, scales and whiteflies, cucumber beetles, caterpillars and spider mites
  • Neem extracts with azadirachtin for caterpillars, flea beetles, weevils, aphids and leafhoppers
  • Spinosad for fire ants, thrips, sawflies, caterpillars (such as armyworms, bean leafroller, cabbage looper, corn earworm/fruitworm, diamondback moth and pickleworm), flies, beetles, spider mites and thrips
  • Bt-k (Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki) for caterpillars, such as armyworms, bean leafroller, cabbage looper, corn earworm/fruitworm, fall webworm, loopers, bagworms, hornworms and squash vine borer
  • Bt (other Bacillus thuringiensis varieties) for fly larvae (mosquitoes, fungus gnats), wax moth larvae and some beetles
  • Horticultural oil (petroleum-based) for soft-bodied insects and mites, including scales, aphids, spider mites, mealybugs and whiteflies
  • Insecticidal soap (potassium salts of fatty acid) for soft-bodied insects and mites, including soft scales, aphids, mealybugs and whiteflies
  • Diatomaceous earth (silica shells of diatoms) for ants, fleas, bed bugs, cockroaches, millipedes, sowbugs, and other small, soft-bodied insects

Plant a diverse garden to control pests and disease. Take a proactive, less toxic pest control approach.

Spring is a great time to be on the lookout for pests and problems.

If you are looking for where to purchase beneficial organisms, also known as “natural enemies,” check this publication: “Guidelines for Purchasing and Using Commercial Natural Enemies and Biopesticides in North America,” by Lynn M. LeBeck and Norman C. Leppla. Specifically, check Tables 1 and 2, for suppliers.

Consider adding plants that attract pollinators and beneficial insects. Some of these plants also have extrafloral nectaries, which are nectar-producing glands found in some plant families, that are separate from the flower. Passionvines are one type of plant with these extrafloral nectaries.

To find out more, check out these IFAS publications: “Natural Products for Managing Landscape and Garden Pests in Florida,” and “Organic Vegetable Gardening in Florida.”

For additional information, contact or (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published June 05, 2019

Prune-and-pass plants make great gifts

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There are not many more rewarding experiences in life than planting and propagating your own plants and watching them grow.

Giving someone special a gift is usually at the top of that list, too.

But, growing a gift is even more special.

The passion flower plant attracts the Gulf Frittilary butterfly. (Courtesy of UF/IFAS Communications)

Many plants can be easily grown and pieces passed along as gifts with some simple pruning and propagation techniques. The resurrection or rain lily is a great example. These Southern staples seemingly spring up out of nowhere in summer during the heavy rains.

Rain lilies grow from clusters of bulbs that can be easily dug up and divided, making them perfect for sharing. Divide them in summer and plant them in sunny spots with moist but well-drained soils. It may take them a year to bloom but when they do, they are spectacular when planted en masse or as singles. These are good butterfly attractants, too.

Four o’ clocks are perennial plants that grow well throughout Florida. Their trumpet-shaped flowers come in a variety of colors and invite hummingbirds. Four o’ clocks will bloom in late spring throughout summer in sunny locations. While they’ll grow easily from seed, they will grow from tubers that you can dig in fall and give away to friends.

Plant the tubers with roots down and deep enough so that the top of the tuber is about 1-inch deep and keep them moist but not wet. Choose planting spots wisely though as four o’ clocks can be somewhat aggressive in the landscape.

Passion flower plants with their wavy petals, and shades of purple and lavender are quite beautiful.

A must have for butterfly enthusiasts is the passion flower, which attracts the Gulf Frittilary.

Passion flower is great for dry conditions and will wind its way up and around a trellis or fence in sunny areas. The wavy petals, 3-inches to 5-inches wide— in shades of purple and lavender — are quite beautiful.

To share, simply use a sharp pair of pruners to clip off 4-inch to 6-inch-long cuttings below a node. Strip away the bottom row of leaves and plant into a moist potting soil. Keep the cuttings moist and in a shady spot. After about a month, new roots should be forming, which means they are ready for gifting.

One of the easiest plants for Florida gardening is also quite drought resistant and beautiful throughout the summer. The crinum (lily) thrives for many years with little to no care. You can plant them in moist and dry areas, and while they do prefer partly shady locations, they can withstand sunny spots.

Plan to divide these plants in the winter, when they aren’t actively growing. Dig around the clump, lift it up and remove any bulb offshoots. Replant those bulbs with the most slender portion of the bulb upright and just above ground.

Crinum care involves nothing more than removing old blooms. Just be prepared for new bulbs to take a year or more to flower.

If you have a friend with a shady spot, consider gifting them a Peacock ginger. Peacock ginger will produce pink or purple flowers in the summer, but their foliage is their most striking characteristic. Dark green, round to oval, medium to large leaves with lime green, purple or even white or silvery splotches make these groundcovers stand out. They do lose their leaves in winter, but they’ll return in spring.

Simply dig up and divide the rhizomes (underground stems) in winter and plant these about ½-inch below the soil surface in well-drained, shady areas. Keep them watered until established.

If you’re looking for an explosion of color, you’ll want to plant crocosmia. Flowers of red, orange or yellow will pop in May and June. These plants prefer sunny areas or part shade and will grow quickly, sometimes flopping over into huge “sprays” of color. You might consider adding support or using a trellis for these. Pass these to friends by lifting the clump and dividing in spring. These make great additions to most any landscape and are usually drought tolerant after established.

Most any plant can be propagated and passed along to friends and family.

Passion flower is great for dry conditions and will wind its way up and around a trellis or fence in sunny areas.

Many easily propagated plants tend to be invasive, which is what makes them so easy to grow in the first place.

Invasive plants are not something we want to share, especially with those we love.

To be sure what you want to prune and pass isn’t invasive, refer to the UF/IFAS Center for Aquatic and Invasive Plants directory where you can easily determine whether your intended gift is invasive or not, at Plants.ifas.ufl.edu/plants-by-common-name/.

There is a vast array of methods for propagating plants – some just take more ingenuity and expertise than others.

Passing along plants is a great way to tell someone special you’re thinking of them since there’s a bit of thought and elbow grease that goes into the process.

You’ll have a special connection to the recipient since you’ll share the same experience of watching the same plant grow and thrive.

For more advanced propagation methods, refer to the UF/IFAS Fact Sheet at EDIS.ufl.edu/mg108.

Just remember the first principle of Florida-Friendly Landscaping; always plant the right plant in the right place.

By Whitney C. Elmore

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published May 15, 2019

Celebrate Earth Day in the garden: Reduce, reuse and recycle

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Rain barrels, compost and using organic matter for mulch are some excellent ways to go green in the garden.

But, there also are endless ways to upcycle outdoors to attract wildlife, while reducing, reusing, and recycling more nontraditional items into creative and fun, and practical items.

As Earth Day 2019 approaches, which is officially on April 22, consider using those old nylons to tie up newly planted trees or stake a tomato plant.

Egg cartons are great for growing transplants. (Courtesy of the University of Florida)

A milk jug with multiple holes poked in the lid makes an excellent watering can for gently sprinkling flower pots.

You can also cut a milk jug in half and use the bottom half as a planter for seeds (just cut a few slits in the bottom for drainage) and the top half as a soil scoop with a built-in handle.

Have some old mini-blinds that you just can’t bring yourself to throw out? Cut the slats into 6-inch strips and use them for plant labels in the garden.

Plastic or foam drinking cups make great seed starters (again cut a few slits in the bottom for drainage), as do fabric shopping bags, which look beautiful hanging on a porch or along a wall with trailing flowers flowing out and over the top.

Or, you can take paper towel or toilet paper tubes, partially roll them in a few sheets of newspaper and fold over the bottom, slip out the tube and voila! You have instant biodegradable seed-starting containers that you can plant directly into the garden without having to remove the seedling.

Old newspapers and cardboard boxes make outstanding weed blockers. Simply layer them over weedy spots in the garden and overlap them slightly to block the sun from reaching the ground, top them with some soil or mulch to hold them in place, and you’ll have months of excellent weed control. Just avoid the glossy or waxy paper products, as they might leach things into the environment that don’t belong.

Egg cartons are great for growing transplants. And, for a splash of color and whimsy, old wine bottles can be partially buried upside down, one after the next, along paths and flower beds to make beautiful borders that will add an enchanting decorative touch with many colors and heights.

Got an old mailbox? Don’t throw it out. Remove the door and add a block of wood to seal the opening. Cut a central hole cut out of the block for birds to enter and exit. No need to add strings or nesting material as these can be harmful to wildlife. The birds will do the heavy lifting on move-in day to build their nests inside.

Or, remove the mailbox door and add dozens of various widths of bamboo shoots to create a bee abode. More pollinators mean more flowers and fruits in your garden, and a healthier environment.

Plastic drink bottles can be turned into mini-greenhouses by simply removing the bottom and using the top half as a cover to protect tender seedlings from cold, with the bottom becoming a planter.

Old glass plates or chinaware make pretty “puddlers” for butterflies, hummingbirds and other pollinators needing to rest and drink from shallow water. Even an old boot can make a great garden planter that will surely get some attention.

Most anything that seems like it has lived out its useful life can be helpful in the garden.

Place old dryer sheets or the lint from the dryer lint trap in the bottom of a pot to prevent soil from flowing out of the bottom of the pot.

Old T-shirts work well for this, too.

Not listening to those old CDs anymore? String them together and use them to harmlessly ward off birds from using your garden as a buffet.

Find an old wooden pallet or gutter? These can easily be turned into great planters for shallow rooted plants, such as strawberries or ornamentals such as petunias.

Lean a pallet up against a tree or barn and let the plants flow down like a trellis. Beautiful and functional!

Arrange three or four pallets, turned on end and tied together to form a square and you have a compost bin.

The possibilities are endless.

Going green is easy, cheap and environmentally beneficial for us all.

Upcycling household items to something with a useful, new life can be rewarding and fun. Let the creative juices flow, get the kids or grandkids involved and make a difference this Earth Day.

By Whitney C. Elmore and Emily Carter

Dr. Whitney Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension Director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III. Emily Carter is an intern from the University of Florida.

Published April 17, 2019

Spring is the time to plant cheerful flowers

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Florida has a long warm season and a shorter cool season.

We are now in our cooler months, which is a time to plant cool season annuals.

An annual is a plant that completes its life cycle in one season. These annuals offer bright color choices. They are plants such as pansies and petunias that might remind us of “up North.”

Colorful annuals may attract pollinators and make great indoor arrangements. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

You can plant many annual, spring flowers January through April.

You may also want to mix spring flowers into your existing containers and landscape beds. When planting flowers in containers, choose pots that are large enough for the plants. Pots that are too small may dry out quickly, which requires more frequent watering. Flower pots that are too small may also stress plants by causing them to repeatedly wilt and bounce back.

Spring flowers planted in clumps or masses will look more dramatic than flowers planted in small groups or individually.

Be sure to find out if your spring flowers prefer full sun or part shade. For example, most wax begonias would prefer some relief from afternoon sun and grow best in a part-shade environment.

Have you ever wondered what a snapdragon tastes like? Consider planting a few edible spring flowers. Edible flowers add a nice touch when used as a garnish to soups, salads and other dishes. It’s fun to eat flowers with kids, and edible flowers can help them appreciate the garden.

Easy to try edible spring flowers include dianthus, pansies, Johnny jump-ups, and snapdragons. Do not eat flowers that have been treated with pesticides.

Some annual plants perform double-duty. Not only are they beautiful flowers, but they also provide nectar and pollen for pollinators. If you’d like to plant spring flowers to attract pollinators, try ageratum, dahlberg daisies, melampodium and zinnias.

Snapdragons and dianthus are both edible spring flowers.

Most spring flowers require little care. If you compost or amend your soil with organic matter, mix that in before you plant your flowers. You can apply a slow-release fertilizer, add a 2-inch to 3-inch layer of mulch around the base of plants to conserve water, and water when needed. Watering with a handheld wand or micro-irrigation may reduce damage to flowers that can be caused by overhead irrigation.

Perform routine pinching or “deadheading” to remove spent flowers and encourage the formation of new flower buds.

To deadhead flowers:

  • Look for blooms or flower clusters that are past their prime and have already bloomed.
  • Cut these back to a node with hand pruners or floral scissors (A node is a place on the plant stem where leaves develop).
  • Make a cut just above the node and compost the spent flower stems.

This practice helps plants stay healthy, invest their energy into producing more flowers and keeps them from getting leggy.

As you deadhead your flowers, learn whether or not these old flower stalks contain seeds.

The seeds of some flowers may be planted easily in the garden, or in small pots, to provide you with more plants and more color.

Scout or check your garden for pests regularly. Many pests that affect spring flowers, such as aphids and mealybugs, may be treated with less toxic products, such as insecticidal soaps and horticultural oils. These products are available at local garden centers and nurseries.

Protect your plants during frosts by covering them with frost fabric, a sheet or blanket, or a cardboard box.

Petunias are cool season annuals that may be grown in the landscape, flower pots, or hanging baskets. Some petunias are fragrant and smell lovely during the evening.

Don’t forget to enjoy your flowers indoors. Examples of spring flowers that make great indoor flower arrangements include snapdragons, dianthus, cosmos, delphinium and gomphrena. Use them, along with your garden greenery (palm leaves, fern fronds, shrub branches), to make inexpensive bouquets.

Share photos of your spring flower garden on our Florida-Friendly LandscapingTM  Facebook page.

Sources for this column included these IFAS publications, “Natural Products for Managing Landscape and Garden Pests in Florida” and “Gardening with Annuals in Florida.”

For additional information, or sources of information on this topic, contact or (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published January 30, 2019