The Laker/Lutz News

Serving Pasco since 1981/Serving Lutz since 1964

Nature Notes

Protecting your turf

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Homeowners often contact the Extension office with questions about their lawn. Here are some examples:

  • “My lawn has bare patches. What’s wrong with it?”
  • “When do I fertilize my lawn and how often?”
  • “How can I tell if the problem is disease or pests?”

The University of Florida/IFAS Extension has free online publications and local county Extension offices that can help you solve lawn problems.

Check this site to find your local county Extension office: SFYL.ifas.ufl.edu/find-your-local-office/.

If you’d like to do your own research, a good rule of thumb is to type the topic you want to learn more about in your computer’s web browser and the letters “UF” after it.

Turf problems may be caused by insects, such as mole crickets, irrigation or disease. When treating turf problems, it’s important to match the control to the cause. (Courtesy of the University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences)

For example, to learn more about St. Augustinegrass, type St. Augustinegrass + UF to get a list of free publications and online resources. Try it!

When it comes to addressing lawn problems, you first need to know what type of grass that you have. Is it St. Augustinegrass, bahiagrass, zoysiagrass or Bermudagrass?

Next, you need to identify when symptoms first appeared?

Next, you need to consider: Were there any recent construction projects? New soil brought in? Pressure-washing or cleaning?

Those activities can cause sudden changes in turf/symptoms.

And, whether you maintain your lawn yourself, or you employ a lawn maintenance company, you need to know when pesticides, herbicides and/or fertilizers are applied, and the types of products used. These practices affect the lawn.

Turf maintenance plans make up part of the story, and it’s easier to solve problems and be an informed consumer if you have information about what products are applied and when they are applied.

St. Augustinegrass is the most common lawn here.

There are different cultivars of St. Augustinegrass, such as ‘Floratam,’ ‘Palmetto,’ and ‘Seville.’

It can be helpful to know the cultivar because some are better adapted for shade or have lower mowing heights.

If replacing parts of your lawn with new pieces of turf, try to match the cultivar to what you already have in your lawn.

Bare patches in St. Augustinegrass may be caused by insects, irrigation problems, large patch (cool weather), or take-all root rot (warm weather).

Beginning in April, start watching for signs of lawn pests. If you see bare patches in the lawn, it’s important to figure out the cause because if it’s a fungus, and the grass is treated for insects, the problem won’t be corrected since the control doesn’t match the cause.

Let’s say you suspect mole crickets or chinch bugs.

If you’re up for an experiment, there is an easy way to find them. (If you don’t find them, it may be a fungus.)

To look for insects, you can do an inexpensive and quick soap flush. If you do the soap flush over several areas of your yard, you should see the insects scurrying around after a few minutes. This YouTube video (1:59) explains how to do a soap flush: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sx_o4EMXsCo. Contact your Extension office for help with insect ID.

This technique is also a way to double-check what others suggest may be the cause. For fungal/disease problems, match the disease with the recommended fungicide.

And, don’t mistake irrigation problems with a pest infestation.

One of the easiest things you can do to take care of grass is to mow it at the right height and frequency, so as not to remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade at any time. Mowing too short can stress the grass. See Table 1 for the suggested mowing heights for Florida lawns.

Leave the clippings on the lawn because they provide nutrients and improve organic matter. They also provide free fertilizer. The nitrogen in grass clippings can replace one fertilizer application each year.

There’s another important practice to be aware of before summer rains: turn off or reduce your irrigation system if we get plenty of rain. This is one of the main causes of turf disease problems, such as take-all root rot, in the summer. This disease occurs when we start getting plenty of rain and we don’t adjust the irrigation system.

Grass needs ½-inch to ¾-inch water per irrigation event. If we get equal to or more than ½-inch to ¾-inch of rainfall, on top of irrigating the lawn one or two times per week, we put down too much water and create an environment for disease.

These disease problems can be hard to treat, sometimes requiring a year or more, and may result in costly replacement of dead turf and annual fungicide applications. Symptoms usually show up months after the summer rainy period, and at that point, they are very difficult to control. To avoid this problem, place an inexpensive rain gauge in your yard. Note the amount of rainfall received. Adjust your irrigation system if we get plenty of rain in a week. This simple strategy can significantly improve the health of your turfgrass and reduce disease potential.

Other tips for taking care of turf:

  • Treat weeds and fertilize separately. Avoid using a weed-and-feed product.
  • Remember, all Florida turfgrasses are dormant in winter. Resist the urge to fertilize in the winter when the grass is dormant. Not fertilizing in winter may improve turf quality the following year.
  • Fertilize the lawn with a slow-release fertilizer. A good example is 15-0-15 with slow-release nitrogen, written as a percent on the back of the bag or the label. You want the first number on the bag (nitrogen) to be a 1:1 or 1:2 ratio with the last number on the bag (potassium). Potassium is a very important nutrient to keep grass healthy and to maintain its ability to withstand stress and disease.

A fertilizer with little or no phosphorous is OK, unless you have a soil test showing your soil is deficient in phosphorous.

  • Fertilize your grass a few times per year. See each of these publications for information on yearly care and when to fertilize. Follow local ordinances where they apply.

St. Augustinegrass: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/LH/LH01000.pdf

Bahiagrass: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/LH/LH00600.pdf

Zoysiagrass: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/LH/LH01100.pdf

Bermudagrass: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/LH/LH00700.pdf

For more information, check these references:

UF/IFAS Gardening Solutions Lawns Topic Page: https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/lawns/

Central Florida Gardening Calendar: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/EP/EP45000.pdf

For additional questions, email , or call (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Optimal mowing heights for Florida lawns:
Bahiagrass: 3 inches to 4 inches
Bermudagrass: ½-inch to 1.5 inches
Centipedegrass: 1.5 inches to 2 inches
St. Augustinegrass: 2.5 inches to 4 inches
Zosiagrass (course types): 2 inches to 2.5 inches
Source: University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County. Jan Ignash, UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County Master Gardener Volunteer, contributed to this column.

Published April 07, 2021

Smell something stinky in your landscape?

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What is that smell?

If you are talking about a terrible odor in your yard, it could be the scent of stinkhorn fungi.

Late winter into early spring in Central Florida is the time during which stinkhorn fungi make an appearance.

Stinkhorn fungi can take on different looks, and it smells horrible, but it plays a valuable role in improving soil health. (Courtesy of Whitney Elmore)

The weird fungal growths are not harmful.

In fact, they are quite beneficial organisms that decompose dead plants and animals — recycling those nutrients back into the environment.

While related to mushrooms, such as puffballs and earthstars, stinkhorn fungi are very unusual in appearance, often keeping their identity a mystery to those finding them simply because they don’t really look like anything else you might have seen.

You may not even see them in the environment due to their odd appearance, but you’ll certainly smell them.

Stinkhorn fungi are aptly named due to the putrid aroma that emanates 20 feet or more away from the actual fungus.

Stinkhorn fungi are very commonly found growing in landscaping mulch and compost, which they are slowly decomposing and using as a food source.

These fungi prefer the cooler months and usually emerge from below ground following a rain event.

Another look at stinkhorn fungi. (Courtesy of David Clode, University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (IFAS))

Most of the stinkhorn’s body is underground and a white, egg-like protrusion is the first indication that one is emerging. The rest of the stinkhorn’s body will emerge over a few days.

Depending on the species, they might look round; be an upright, tubular protrusion; or even have a lattice-like network of filaments. The color ranges from yellow to orange, and maybe even red.

Stinkhorn fungi gradually decompose over a four-day to five-day period as they complete their life cycle.

Early in their development, the fungi will emit a foul odor that can persist for days. Some say the odor smells like rotting flesh, while others might say it smells like rotting eggs.

Recently, a homeowner called the Pasco Extension Office concerned about the smell of methane emanating from the yard. Upon further investigation, it was determined the cause of the smell was a stinkhorn fungus.

You might not see it, but you’ll very likely smell stinkhorn fungi.

While we won’t appreciate the rotting smell associated with these fungi, it is essential to their survival and spread to new areas. The smell attracts ants, flies and other insects that will carry the spores (microscopic seed-like structures) to new locations with more food sources.

Luckily, stinkhorn fungi are harmless to landscape plants, trees, shrubs and so on.

Stinkhorn fungi, as well as other decomposers, help to break down tiny pieces of organic matter helping to build a healthier soil profile, which then can support plants much more effectively. This benefit is really important considering Central Florida soils are very poor with little to no organic matter and low water-holding capacity.

Since stinkhorn fungi are beneficial, and not harmful, there’s no need to try to control them.

If you notice stinkhorns in one place, it’s possible you’ll continue to see them in the same area for several seasons. If they are troublesome due to the smell, simply place a plastic bag over the egg-like protrusion as soon as you notice them, collect the fungus, tie up the bag and throw it away.

Allowing them to mature will increase the chance that they will spread, as will running over them with a mower.

Looks — and smells — can be deceiving in the landscape.

Do some research on land-grant university websites, or better yet, call your local Extension Office to get help identifying unusual things in your landscape. You just might discover that they are more helpful than you could ever imagine.

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County extension director and an urban horticulture agent III.

Published March 03, 2021

Winter and monarch butterflies

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Monarch butterflies are a welcome garden visitor, and they bring joy to any butterfly gardener. People who have experienced raising butterflies, have watched them go through their metamorphosis.

For those who haven’t seen this, monarchs — like other butterflies — go through a complete metamorphosis. They change shape from an egg, to a larva, then a pupa – also called a chrysalis, and then emerge as an adult butterfly.

You may help prevent the spread of Ophryocystis elektroscirrha (OE), a harmful parasite, by cutting back tropical milkweed plants during winter. When OE infects monarch caterpillars, it may cause them to turn a dark color, lose their shape, live shorter lives, and emerge from a chrysalis malformed or unhealthy. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

To successfully raise butterflies, home gardeners must have nectar and host plants.

Nectar plants are flowering plants that provide nectar for the adult butterflies. Examples  include pentas, rosinweed, jatropha and plumbago, to name a few.

Planting lots of different flowering plants, with many colors and staggered bloom times, helps attract different butterfly species.

Host plants are specific for each type of butterfly you want to attract.

The host plant is where the adult female butterfly lays eggs. The caterpillars hatch from the egg and eat the leaves, sometimes the stem and flowers, too, of the host plants. You should expect some leaf damage because this is normal as the butterfly larvae eat the leaves of their host plant.

Host plants include milkweed, pipevine, passion flower, plumbago and parsley.

Having a combination of host and nectar plants in your garden will encourage butterflies to stay there throughout the year.

Milkweed is one of the most common host plants home gardeners use to attract monarch butterflies. Milkweeds may be native or non-native. There is increased effort by butterfly organizations and the University of Florida/IFAS to encourage gardeners to plant more native milkweed.

Native milkweeds, which can be found at your local native plant nurseries, include white swamp milkweed (Asclepias perennis), pinewoods milkweed (Asclepias humistrata) and pink swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata).

Some milkweeds grow best in certain types of landscapes. Talk with the nursery to select the milkweeds that would grow best in your location.

A growing concern centers on tropical milkweed (Asclepias curassavica). Tropical milkweed continues to grow and flower throughout the winter, whereas our native milkweeds generally die back to the ground. Tropical milkweed is not native to Florida or the United States, and it blooms and flowers all year – attracting monarchs to lay eggs when they ordinarily would not.

Monarch butterflies are a welcome visitor to home gardens.

But, home gardeners love tropical milkweed, and it is an important plant for nurseries and consumer horticulture. Tropical milkweed is easy to grow, especially for children, and has bright, attractive flowers.

Recognizing this appreciation for tropical milkweed, the current recommendation is to cut tropical milkweed plants back through winter. As a rule of thumb, around Thanksgiving is a good time to cut back your tropical milkweed. Cut it back to the ground, or to about 6 inches from the ground, and repeat as needed.

Cutting back the tropical milkweed plants mimics the natural tendency of our native milkweeds to die back in the winter. This practice prevents monarchs from laying more eggs through the winter.

Another concern is the threat of a parasite that affects monarchs called Ophryocystis elektroscirrha, or OE for short. OE is a protozoan that spreads by spores. When OE infects monarch caterpillars, it may cause them to turn a dark color, lose their shape, live shorter lives, and emerge from a chrysalis malformed or unhealthy.

For those who have raised monarch caterpillars indoors, you may have seen this happen. When OE infects a group of caterpillars, it’s very disheartening to a butterfly gardener.

Ways to prevent OE when raising monarchs indoors are to step up the cleanliness and avoid overcrowding too many caterpillars in an enclosure. Cutting back tropical milkweed in the winter is another way to reduce the spread of OE spores to monarch eggs and caterpillars.

Fortunately, there’s space for tropical milkweed and native milkweeds in home and school gardens.

Continue to experiment with native milkweeds and enjoy the monarch butterflies that visit your garden. If you have kids, grandkids or students, talk with them about this process.

Don’t forget to cut back your tropical milkweed through the winter to reduce the threat of OE and to promote monarch health.

Also, consider joining a citizen science initiative or participating in the Florida Museum of Natural History’s Wings Over Florida program, where you may earn fun certificates for identifying butterfly species at https://floridabirdingtrail.com/wings-over-florida-butterflies/.

Here are some more helpful links:

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/IN/IN78000.pdf

https://monarchjointventure.org/images/uploads/documents/Oe_fact_sheet.pdf

https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/design/types-of-gardens/butterfly-gardens.html

https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/ornamentals/milkweed.html

https://www.floridamuseum.ufl.edu/discover-butterflies/brochures/

Nicole Pinson is the urban horticulture agent in Hillsborough County. Contact her at or at 813-744-5519 X 54145.

Published January 06, 2021

Surprises in the garden, during COVID-19

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Although this year has been “unprecedented,” I have appreciated the extra time I’ve spent in my yard.

These cloudy-looking drops are insect eggs laid on the underside of a beautyberry leaf. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson, UF/IFAS)

With a less-crowded calendar, fewer people to visit, and a safer-at-home approach, the garden has provided a welcome respite, and a place for learning.

I suppose many of you are in this situation, too.

Allow me to encourage you to enjoy your garden. And, if you don’t have a garden, consider planting a few flowers or container plants — to give you something to grow and take care of over time.

Over time, the eggs turned orange, with a red stripe along the top.

Wander.

Look around.

Notice what’s normal.

Notice what’s not normal.

Scout for things.

Touch plants.

Flip leaves.

This summer, I noticed these two small eggs on my beautyberry bush. The eggs caught my eye because I had not seen them before. They looked like small, triangular drops of cloudy glue. I knew beautyberry, being a Florida native plant, was virtually pest and disease free. I was curious about what laid these eggs and what they would turn out to be.

Leaf-footed bugs are considered plant pests rather than beneficial insects.

Every day, I looked for these eggs. My intention was to monitor them to learn what they would become. As a butterfly gardener, I have watched insects grow and develop. I knew the eggs would likely change color as they matured. I also knew something might eat them the longer they stayed on the leaves.

I made a plan to watch the eggs, and when they began to change color, I would pick off the entire leaf with the eggs and place them in a glass container, like a pickle jar or a food storage container.

The container would protect the eggs from predators, and give me a close-up view of the metamorphosis.

The eggs started off as cloudy-like drops of glue. I began to notice other insects that flew around the plant. I took pictures of them, too, looking for more clues.

Then, about five days later, the eggs changed color. They went from a cloudy whitish color to a reddish-orange color, with a stripe along the top. They looked like a completely different egg.

A few days later, the eggs hatched. To my surprise, two red leaf-footed bugs emerged, quickly moving around – almost like robots or aliens.

Insects look very different at different stages of their life cycle. In Extension, we talk about integrated pest management or IPM. This involves properly identifying the pest or problem before taking action, using best practices, such as correct amount of irrigation and fertilizer to prevent problems; not taking action if it’s unnecessary; and, matching the control to the problem or pest.

I was disappointed these weren’t beneficial bugs, as leaf-footed bugs are considered garden pests. I placed them back into the garden near my bird feeder.

But, this was an interesting project, because I learned so much.

First, I was eventually able to ID the eggs and the bugs. Second, I noted how long the process took (about a week and half). Third, I have photos to share with others. For example, one website that I reference often, BugGuide.net, does not have pictures of the eggs from the beginning stage.

Had it not been for COVID-19, I would not have had this experience. And, this experience reminds me of a quote, attributed to Dorothy Parker (but some disagree that this is her quote): “The cure for boredom is curiosity. There is no cure for curiosity.”

May you be curious gardeners.

For more information, please visit these links:

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/topic_leaffooted_bugs

https://bugguide.net/node/view/114143

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/IN/IN10900.pdf

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County. Contact Nicole at or at (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Published December 02, 2020

Use care in watering — or face fines

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Here’s a friendly reminder from the folks at Hillsborough County Public Utilities: Pay attention to the county’s watering restrictions.

Residents living in unincorporated Hillsborough County are allowed to water their lawns twice a week, and those restrictions are effective throughout the year, according to a Hillsborough County news release.

To help conserve on water, make sure your watering systems have no leaks, that spray patterns are directed properly and that the sprinkler heads are in working order. (Courtesy of Hillsborough County)

The ordinance covers all sources of water, except for reclaimed water.

These are the watering rules:

  • Lawn watering must be done before 8 a.m. or after 6 p.m., and property owners can only water once on the designated days.
  • Addresses ending in 0, 1, 2, or 3 can water their lawns on Mondays and Thursdays.
  • Addresses ending in 4, 5, or 6 can water their lawns on Tuesdays and Fridays.
  • Addresses ending in 7, 8, or 9 can water their lawns Wednesdays and Saturdays.
  • Locations with no addresses, such as common areas, and locations with mixed addresses, such as office complexes, can water their lawns on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

Hillsborough County Code Enforcement enforces the county ordinance for year-round watering restrictions.

Violations may result in citations starting at $100.

The release also provides this advice, from the University of Florida’s Institute of Food and Agricultural Science: A rule of thumb is to water the lawn when 30% to 50% of the lawn shows signs that the grass has folding leaf blades, a blue-gray color, or footprints are visible in the grass.

It’s also a good idea to check to make sure that the sprinkler system is working properly and that there are no leaks, broken sprinkler heads or misdirected spray patterns, the release added.

To report properties that are not adhering to watering restrictions, call Code Enforcement at (813) 224-8993.

Learn more online at HCFLGov.net/WaterRestrictions.

For more information on conserving water, visit HCFLGov.net/WaterConservation, or call the Water Conservation Hotline at (813) 663-3295.

Published October 21, 2020

Hype over Asian hornets threatens innocent insects

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The world was turned on its head when “Jaws” was released in 1975.

The phenomenally successful movie made people wonder: Was it safe to go back in the water?

Concerns over safety, however, led to the millions of shark deaths.

Yellow jackets, another common Florida wasp, also are mistaken for ‘murder hornets.’ Yellow jackets are beneficial. They prey upon insect pests. (Courtesy of Celeste Welty/Ohio State University)

While 1975 could arguably be called “the year of the shark,” this year might be called the year of “the insect.”

Headlines have honed in on giant Asian hornets, also known as “murder hornets,” and that has created confusion — putting innocent insects in harm’s way.

The invasive giant Asian hornet was trapped in the state of Washington in 2019, and it also was captured across the border, in Canada.

This invader is native to Asia and most likely accidentally introduced to the United States, through a shipping container on a cargo ship.

The state of Washington quickly mobilized local beekeepers and state agricultural biologists to track, trap and destroy the hornets effectively leaving Washington state, and the rest of the U.S., murder-hornet free.

Just recently — at the end of August — there were more sightings in the state of Washington, so experimental traps are being set to see if they can find out more about them.

When the insect was first discovered in Washington, a news story was published raising alarms nationwide —leading to hundreds of reported sightings.

Those sightings were not murder hornets.

But, the fear  prevails.

Jun-ichi Takahasi, a specialist on the species from Japan, says that the hornet earned the “murder hornet” moniker from its aggressive behavior, its ability to deliver extremely painful stings and for the possibility that just a few stings can be fatal for humans, according to a report published this May.

Understandably, the public is concerned.

Beekeepers are concerned, too, since the hornet is adept at killing adult honeybees and feeding the larvae to its young.

Florida, popular for its beaches and warm winters and hot summers, has a conducive environment for invasive plants and species.

It has vines that choke the life out of native plant populations and pythons that choke the life out of native wildlife.

The giant Asian hornet has a yellow head, a black thorax, and yellow and black or brown stripes along its abdomen, making its size and color quite distinctive compared to any other insect in Florida. (Courtesy of Allan Smith-Pardo/USDA APHIS PPQ)

Florida also has plenty of wild areas where invasive pests can hide.

However, there have been no verified sightings of murder hornets in Florida, or nearly anywhere else in the U.S.

Still, the fear about murder hornets could endanger Florida’s native and beneficial insects that just so happen to resemble the now-famous hornet species.

These beneficial insects could be in jeopardy, just as sharks fell victim to human overreaction and sensationalism.

Here’s a look at some of the insects that could be at risk.

The most common wasp species mistaken for the giant Asian hornet is the cicada killer, also known as ground hornets.

Large and intimidating, cicada killers are not harmful. In fact, they help control the population of damaging plant-eating cicadas. There are a few species in Florida and throughout the Caribbean. Generally, they are not aggressive, but they are capable of stinging, if provoked.

Although not considered dangerous, any of the wasp species can be harmful to those with allergies, small children and the elderly.

It’s best to not encourage them to live close by using mulch to cover bare soil and, if necessary, using labeled insecticides can rid an area of the wasps.

Cicada killer colors, depending on the species, appear red to black with large, yellow spots. While the cicada killer is large, compared to other wasp species at 1.5-inches long, they pale in comparison to the giant Asian hornet which can grow to more than 2.5-inches long.

The giant Asian hornet has a yellow head, a black thorax, and yellow and black or brown stripes along its abdomen, making its size and color quite distinctive compared to any other insect in Florida.

The common paper wasp, commonly mistaken for a ‘murder hornet,’ is beneficial. It helps to pollinate plants and makes a great biological pest control, controlling damaging caterpillars. (Courtesy of Russ Ottens/University of Georgia)

Another wasp — the common paper wasp — also is commonly mistaken for a ‘murder hornet.” The paper wasp typically keeps to itself, but it can sting, if provoked.

Paper wasps are beneficial. They help to pollinate plants and they make a great biological pest control, controlling damaging caterpillars.

They can sting to protect their nests, but they typically are not a problem.

If they do become a problem, careful application of a labeled aerosol spray in the evening, after the wasps have returned to their nest, can address the issue.

Yellow jackets, another common Florida wasp, also are mistaken for “murder hornets.”

Yellow jackets are more aggressive in defending their homes than other wasp species, but they, too, are beneficial. They prey upon insect pests. Yellow jackets are distinctive in their coloration, which consists of a black body with bright, yellow stripes.

Another ground-dwelling wasp — the bald-faced hornet — also sometimes is mistaken for the giant Asian hornet. But, the bald-faced hornet wasp has very distinctive black and white coloration, and dwells in aerial nests.

The bald-faced hornet also is not a threat.

All of these wasps are hornets. Hornet is just a term for wasps that typically have above-ground nests. Yellow jacket is a term generally reserved for those wasps with underground nests.

People are concerned about the potential spread of the giant Asian hornets.

But, they can rest assured that the United States Department of Agriculture and Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services are vigilant.

They are constantly monitoring for invasive pathogens, insects and viruses that have potential to do harm to the native bees and wildlife, including the vitally important European honey bees, which surprisingly, are not a native species.

As sharks have been killed needlessly over the past four decades, innocent insects are being killed more frequently because of mistaken identity.

Those actions lead to potential ecological damage, as populations of native and non-native beneficial species are affected.

Many of these insects help pollinate crops, home gardens and ornamental plants.

They also can serve as important food sources for other animals.

Florida is rich in plant and animal diversity — so mistaken identities are understandable, but caution and patience should govern our reactions.

To learn more on this topic, visit:
Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services – FDACS.gov
Florida Wildlife Commission – MyFWC.com
University of Florida/IFAS Pasco Cooperative Extension Office – SFYL.ifas.ufl.edu/pasco/.

Controlling wasps
Wasps play a beneficial role and should not be killed unnecessarily, but occasional control may be needed. If so, here are some things to keep in mind:

  • For yellow jackets (wasps nesting below ground), call in a licensed, pest control operator. These wasps are aggressive, and it’s difficult to get to the nests.
  • For hornets, or wasp species with small nests, use aerosol sprays labeled for their use on wasps. These types of spray can be sprayed from several feet away from the nest, to help avoid stings.
  • For large, aerial nests in trees, consult a licensed professional for removal options.

Need help?
If you believe you have spotted something unknown to our state, potentially dangerous, or simply unusual, there are resources to help with identification, and if necessary, offer control strategies.

The University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences Cooperative Extension Service can help with identification and can help you learn more about the insects.

The Florida Wildlife Commission and the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services also are good sources of information.

Source: Whitney C. Elmore, is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published September 23, 2020

Gardening during COVID-19: Sanitize your tools

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We all know to wash our hands for 20 seconds, cough into our elbows and practice 6-foot physical distancing.

Use common recipes, recommended by the University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (UF/IFAS) to sanitize tools. Soak them for 5 minutes to 10 minutes. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson, UF/IFAS)

But, with all the sanitizing of hands and homes, did you know it’s also important to sanitize your garden tools?

Diseases may be spread from plant to plant by pruning tools, such as hand saws, pruners and loppers. This is especially true for palms.

Fusarium wilt and thielaviopsis trunk rot of palm are two examples of palm diseases that may be transmitted by pruning tools. Fusarium wilt and thielaviopis rot are both lethal palm diseases. It can be costly to remove or replant a specimen palm.

Canary Island date, queen, Mexican fan and coconut palms are the most susceptible. If you have any of these in your landscape, be extra careful about pruning and sanitizing your tools.

If you use a landscape maintenance company, talk with them to make sure they sanitize pruning tools between properties and before pruning these types of palms in your landscape.

Common recipes for sanitizing tools:

  • Pine Sol®: 25% Pine Sol® and 75% water
  • Bleach: 25% bleach and 75% water
  • Rubbing alcohol: 50% rubbing alcohol and 50% water (Must be 70% isopropyl alcohol)
  • Denatured ethanol: 50% denatured ethanol and 50% water (Must be 95% denatured alcohol)

The most important thing to remember: Soak the tools for 5 minutes to 10 minutes. Dipping them into a sanitizing solution will not sanitize them. They must soak for the solution to work.

Also, be sure to replace the solution every two hours, or after 10 palms.

And, be sure to rinse the tool with fresh water after soaking it.

In general, palms rarely need to be pruned. When pruning, only remove dead or dangerous fronds.

Too much pruning may attract pests, such as palmetto weevils. Too much pruning can make nutrient deficiencies worse. It may also stress the palm, which makes it less able to withstand disease.

Take good care of your palms by not over-pruning them. Don’t “hurricane” prune or trim them into pineapple shapes.

 

If you have gardening questions during COVID-19, contact your local Extension office’s virtual help desk. Find an Extension office at this link: https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/find-your-local-office/

For additional information, email , or call (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

To learn more about palms, please check the references used for this column:

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published August 05, 2020

Beware of hidden dangers to pets in your landscape

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As a dog lover (well, an animal lover in general), I spend a lot of time keeping an eye on my treasured pets.

I make sure they are eating a healthy diet, drinking plenty of fresh water and have comfy beds for sleeping.

I’m also vigilant about keeping them away from getting into anything dangerous, such as cleaning supplies, fertilizers and medications.

Oleander flowers. UF/IFAS Photo by Tom Wright.

Whether they’re inside or outside, pet owners must be responsible for keeping their pets safe.

That’s a duty that I take seriously.

Pet owners typically are aware that chocolate, grapes, onions and caffeine are poisonous to pets.

But, other dangers aren’t always so obvious.

Those hazards include poisonous plants and common landscape items that can become hazardous.

Many would agree that mulch is an excellent addition to the landscape. It locks in moisture, prevents weeds and adds curb appeal. However, be sure to keep your pets, especially the younger ones, away from it.

Mulches generally are woody and sharp, and when a pet chews on mulch, there’s a risk of pieces lodging in the throat or the intestines. That’s always serious and sometimes can be fatal.

So, when puppies are out exploring your yard, be sure to keep a close eye on them and offer them lots of pet toys to keep their interest.

Watch out for small rocks and sticks, too. They also pose choking dangers and can cause puncture wounds, and blockages.

But, the biggest risk comes from common landscaping plants because many, while beautiful, are poisonous.

Of course, just because a plant has toxic properties, it doesn’t mean it can’t or shouldn’t be used in a landscape.

Plants play various roles in the landscape. Sometimes they are pollinators. They also provide food or homes for wildlife. Plus, they are important aesthetic features that can boost the value of property.

Lantana is a sturdy and pretty plant, but it also contains toxins that can be harmful to pets. (Courtesy of UF/IFAS)

So, with all those benefits, just remember to be mindful of what you are planting in your landscape, and be sure to take precautions to keep your pets and children away from potential dangers.

To help you stay safe, here are some things to remember about some popular landscape plants.

Milkweed, a favorite among gardeners, exudes a milky sap. Besides causing irritation, the sap can be toxic if consumed.

If you have this plant in your landscape, be sure to keep your pets way from it.

Also, be sure to prevent your pet from straying onto someone else’s property because there may be plants there that could pose harm.

Lantana is another fan favorite. This plant is tough as nails and pretty, too, and is frequented by bees and butterflies. It is also easy to grow and adds nice color to the landscape.

But, it also has its downsides.

It is not recommended in Florida because it is quite invasive and once established, is hard to control.

The name of this plant, angel’s trumpet, belies the dangers it poses. All parts of this plant are poisonous. (Mary Rathman)

Plus, it is highly toxic to animals.

Angel’s trumpet is a beautiful plant with huge flowers, shaped like trumpets. The flowers — which can come in white, yellow, orange or peach — hang downward and have a delicate fragrance.

But, the name angel’s trumpet is a misnomer: All parts of this plant are poisonous.

Coral bean — a  favorite plant of hummingbirds and butterflies — has tall, red blooms. Those blooms give way to black seed pods, and when they are opened, they give way to shiny, red seeds.

The pretty seeds are enticing to pets and children, but are highly toxic.

If you have this plant, consider removing the seed pods before they split so the seeds aren’t distributed into the landscape.

Another beautiful plant, oleander, is fast-growing and requires little maintenance.

This gorgeous plant produces copious flowers of red, pink, coral, yellow or white combined with long, dark green leaves — making it a shrub showstopper.

At this point, you may have surmised, that every part of this plant is poisonous.

Chinaberry, a very common tree in Florida, grows quickly and tall, and has fragrant flowers.

But, it doesn’t live long, and is a messy tree with poisonous fruit and seeds.

This plant is aggressive and invasive, and not recommended in the landscape. Nicotiana, or flowering tobacco, is another home gardener favorite.

Use care not to let your dog play with small sticks because they can become a choking hazard. Also keep an eye on your pooch to keep him away from dangerous plants. (Courtesy of UF/IFAS)

Its green, purple, pink or white flowers are plentiful and it has a heavenly scent, especially at night, making it a great plant for moon gardens.

Since it does contain nicotine, it is another poisonous plant to keep away from pets.

Mistletoe, a popular traditional decoration around the holidays, is poisonous to pets.

It’s not good for trees, either. Found living on many trees in Florida, mistletoe is a parasite, robbing its host plant of nutrients and water. Large infestations of mistletoe can kill otherwise healthy and established trees over time.

It also spreads easily, so if you spot mistletoe, remove it from your landscape.

During summer months, yesterday-today-and-tomorrow blooms can grab your attention as they change color from purple or lavender to white within a day or two.

These plants can grow to be 8 feet tall to 10 feet tall, although there are some dwarf varieties available.

All parts of yesterday-today-and-tomorrow plants are poisonous. The berries are the most toxic.

When deciding what to add to your landscape, be sure to take the time to investigate new plants before planting them.

The first principle of Florida-Friendly Landscaping is to put the right plant in the right place.

This applies not only to mature height, width, sun or shade, but also with consideration to pets and the potential dangers that exist.

Also, after pruning poisonous plants, do not burn the branches. Burning them can release toxic compounds that can cause serious health risks, if inhaled.

Finally, keep in mind that just because a plant is poisonous, it doesn’t mean it must be banned from your landscape.

It just needs to be located in a place where it will be less accessible, or inviting, to pets and children.

If you would like to know about specific plant species and whether they are poisonous, or if you are unsure of a plant identification, be sure to reach out to your local University of Florida/IFAS Extension Office for information.

As the old adage goes, it’s better to be safe, than sorry.

For more information about plants that are poisonous to pets, visit tinyurl.com/ojasgpk.

By Whitney C. Elmore

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published May 27, 2020

Worried about your plants turning brown?

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Seeing some of your plants turn brown in the winter can be a bit concerning.

It’s good to know that it’s normal for many plants, such as turfgrasses, to go dormant and turn brown in the winter.

The plant is protecting itself during cold temperatures and lower light levels.

Vegetation that’s injured by the cold can turn brown, but resist the urge to cut it back or to add fertilizer to damaged plants. Wait until you’re sure that warm temperatures have returned before taking action to address weather damage. (University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences)

Typically, plants will recover once spring arrives.

However, hard freezes may injure or potentially kill some plants.

The best way to protect your plants from cold injury, or death, is to select plants for your landscape based on the USDA Hardiness Zone Map that outlines which plants are most likely to survive in a given zone (https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/).

Florida is a wonderful place to grow a wide variety of plants, but not all of them thrive in every part of the state. For instance, a Christmas palm does well in South Florida, but won’t survive the winters in Central Florida.

Also, just a few miles can mean a big difference in temperature variations between our coastal and inland locations.

A principle of Florida-Friendly Landscaping is to plant the right plant in the right place. Not only does that principle apply to location in the landscape; it also applies to your climate zone.

Even though cold damage can cause injury to many plants, don’t lose hope. There are a few considerations to keep in mind to help your plant recover from cold injury.

It’s helpful to know that soils that have frozen even slightly, like in a container, can lose a lot of moisture and cold-damaged plants still need water.

After a freeze, check the soil around injured plants to determine if they are dry or not. If dry, irrigate until the soil is moist, but not wet.

It is tempting to fertilize plants after injury to stimulate new growth, but it’s not a good idea to “tell” an already injured plant to expend energy to grow — especially when the risk of more damage from another freeze is possible.

Resist the urge. Don’t fertilize until later in the season after the plant has shown obvious signs of recovery and is actively growing. That typically happens in late spring or even as late as summer.

The principle of patience also applies to pruning.

Cold-damaged plants typically look terrible with brown and even black, dead tissue. But, pruning tells the plant to grow, so put down the pruners.

Extensive growth during recovery robs the plant of vital energy and nutrients, and leaves new, tender tissue vulnerable to more damage from cold weather. Once the threat of frost or freeze passes, it’s safe to remove dead plant tissue.

If your lawn happens to be the common St. Augustinegrass, and it suffers extensive cold damage — which typically only occurs when exposed to temperatures around 20 degrees Fahrenheit — it will most likely die. Bahiagrass will rebound when warmer weather returns. If the lawn turns brown and stays brown, and appears to rot away, you’ll want to re-sod or re-seed, depending on the turfgrass species, to reestablish the lawn.

Some cold-injured ornamental plants may take years to recover from the roots, such as hibiscus.

Cold protection is relatively simple though. For most ornamental plants in pots, simply move them into a protected area when temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit are predicted.

If the plant is not easily moved, a bed sheet or blanket makes a good cover. Just ensure the cover drapes all the way to the ground so that heat from the ground can be trapped under the cover protecting the plant. Place a rock or brick on the cover to anchor the cover, but don’t allow it to weigh down the plant and cause damage.

Additionally, if you can erect a simple scaffold for the blanket to rest on just above the foliage, there’s less chance of cold injury since frost that rests on the blanket that touches the foliage can still cause damage through heat loss.

Many homeowners “lollipop” the blanket around the trunk or base of the plant cutting off the flow of heat from the soil, so don’t make this major mistake.

Plastic sheeting can be used, in a pinch, but it must be removed before sunlight strikes the plant in the morning or you risk burning the plant underneath, which happens rather quickly.

There are some commercial frost clothes that also can help prevent cold injury, but they must be used in the same way mentioned above.

With any cover, remove it once the temperature is above freezing early in the morning to allow the light to reach the plant, reduce the chance of sun scald, and get more heat into the plant.

Cold damage is not always preventable, but it is possible for plants to recover with a little TLC. In most cases, the plant just needs to be left alone to recover on its own time.

For more information about reestablishing your lawn, go to: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/lh013. For more information on cold protection for ornamental plants, refer to: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/topic_landscapes_and_cold.

By Whitney C. Elmore

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published March 11, 2020

Gifts for the garden

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Wondering what to give the gardener in your life?

Here are few ideas that may be helpful to you.

Most gardeners have pruners they carry with them as they work in the garden. But, how often do they sharpen their pruners? You don’t need to take them anywhere or pay to get them sharpened – they are very easy to sharpen yourself.

A garden cart or wheelbarrow makes garden chores easier. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

For less than $25, you can buy your gardening friend a standard, pocket-sized sharpener, such as this Swiss Istor sharpener. It is lightweight, compact and easy-to-use. Carry it your pocket, apron or toolkit, so it’s ready to sharpen pruners on the go.

If you’re in the market for a planter, you might consider repurposing a cattle trough or stock tank. I’ve seen a lot of restaurants and shops doing that.

These troughs are sturdy, attractive and can be purchased in different sizes. They make it easy to reach plants without bending over, if you buy one that’s a few feet tall.

The sky is the limit regarding the types of plants and combinations a gardener may create in these containers. I have a stock tank on my list this year. It’s 49 gallons and measures 48 inches by 24 inches by 12 inches.

My plan is to stuff it with trellised vegetables, lettuces, herbs and edible flowers. As a bonus, the edible flowers will attract pollinators to the raised bed garden, which helps with pest control and fruit production.

Another great garden gift is a wheelbarrow or a garden cart to make it easier to move mulch, clippings, soil and debris around the garden — which can be a backbreaking chore.

Many gifts – such as plants, gift cards to local nurseries and pollinator-friendly garden signs – are a welcome addition to gardens.

Carts and wheelbarrows are versatile and useful in gardens large or small.

Houseplants also make a great gift.

Many people – including younger gardeners – are drawn to houseplants because they look attractive, can be easy to care for and help improve indoor air quality. I prefer a few large pots with lush, sturdy plants. But, moving these pots – for example, sweeping around them, moving them according to seasonal light changes, or taking them outside for a long soak and to rinse the leaves – can be cumbersome.

Rolling plant caddies can make that job much easier.

You can get planter pot movers for less than $25. Pick plant caddies in a standard color, such as dark brown or black, so they blend in with most pots.

Do you need some inspiration about houseplants? Check websites, social media pages and your local library for “houseplant groups,” “houseplant décor” or “houseplants.”

Bird feeders are great gifts, too. Wrap the bird feeder along with a good bird seed mix so the recipient can hang the feeder immediately. The birds will thank you, too.

Here’s an idea I picked up in Arizona a few years ago, when I visited a beautiful garden in the desert.

They hung prisms from shrubs and small trees, which reflected sunlight and made little rainbows around the garden, adding to the garden’s charm.

Backyard bird feeders and birdbaths make a nice gift for any gardener or wildlife enthusiast.

Prisms and other suncatchers make great gifts. Here’s a tip: If the prisms don’t come with a cord, be sure to include some heavy duty clear fishing line, or similar cord, to go along with your prism.

Of course, seasonal plants are a nice gift idea, too.

A pot of amaryllis or paperwhites bring holiday cheer to any room. They are easy to grow for any skill level. Many local nurseries and box stores carry these during the holidays. They make a nice addition to holiday décor, whether at home or at the office. As a bonus, amaryllis may be planted outside after blooming.

Garden books, flowerpots, pot clips, pot feet, macramé plant holders (yes, macramé is in style) and hose guards are all nice gifts. Garden signs that show your gardening friend’s appreciation for pollinators, birds and bees are a nice touch, too, especially if placed near a sidewalk or in a school or community garden plot.

When the garden is all spruced up, weeded and mulched (when is that ever done?!), sit back and relax with a cold drink. Place universal beverage/drink holder stakes around the garden and near patio areas and tables to encourage sitting for a moment and enjoying the garden on your own, or with pets, friends and family.

Of course, you can never go wrong with a gift card. Chances are the gardener in your life can always use one more plant! Gift cards to local nurseries help support local businesses and can give your recipient the option of all kinds of garden gifts, whether it’s a new plant, seeds, a tool, garden ornament or soil.

For additional information, contact or (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published December 18, 2019