The Laker/Lutz News

Serving Pasco since 1981/Serving Lutz since 1964

Nature Notes

Controlling noxious weeds in your yard

By

Central Florida is home to some of the most diverse plant life in the state.

Cool, dry winters and hot, wet summers create a transitional zone where a variety of plants thrive, or can at least get by with a little help from their owners.

With the good news, comes the bad news — there are dozens of weeds that cause grief for property owners and managers.

Brazilian Peppertree. Image used in the 2014 Research Discoveries report. (Courtesy of UF/IFAS Communications)

Noxious weeds, which can out-compete native species, can be quite damaging.

In Central Florida, three common noxious weeds of great concern are: Brazilian peppertree, air potato vine, and cogongrass.

Brazilian peppertree was introduced perhaps more than 100 years ago as an ornamental plant.

Common along roads and canals, Brazilian peppertree has destroyed much of the native, protective mangroves and pine flatlands.

While attractive, its ability to overtake native vegetation and its potentially hazardous sap — which can cause severe rashes and lung irritation — make it undesirable.

Herbicide applications are effective for controlling Brazilian peppertree, but only when timed right and applied correctly.

The “cut stump method” of herbicide application is an excellent method for control.

Simply follow these steps:

  • Cut the tree stump as low to the ground as possible.
  • Within 5 minutes of making the cut, apply a herbicide labeled for use on Brazilian peppertree (with the active ingredients: triclopyr at the label rate, or glyphosate at 41% active ingredient or higher formulation, as ready-to-use formulas won’t be effective) just inside of the bark layer on the living tissue.
  • Cut the trees only when they are not fruiting; if seeds are visible, use great care to not spread them to new locations.
  • Avoid the sap, and use proper protective gear with cutting or removing these plants.
  • Do not burn Brazilian peppertree due to the potential for hazardous fumes from the sap.

Brazilian peppertree also can be controlled with a basal bark herbicide application. Consult with your local Extension Office for details on this method.

University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences scientists were granted approval for the release of a biological control for use on Brazilian peppertree in 2019. An insect species of thrips feed on the new shoots of Brazilian peppertree and have been found to be host-specific, meaning they only damage Brazilian peppertree.

Controlling other noxious weeds
Air potato vine is an extremely aggressive vine that can grow several inches in a day making it capable of towering up into the tops of trees while out-competing native vegetation along the way.

Biological controls, combined with other integrated pest management approaches, such as herbicide use, mechanical (removal) and cultural methods (proper timing, application methods, seasonality, etc.) have been highly effective at controlling air potato vine.

The release of the Air Potato Beetle, in 2012, by the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Sciences, in conjunction with UF/IFAS, has helped limit the spread of air potato vine.

Cogongrass is common throughout the Southeastern United States, taking over roadsides, fields, pine-forested areas and pasturelands. It is difficult to control and can be a fire hazard, too.

Early detection of cogongrass infestations is the key to control. Small areas of infestation are easier to manage compared to larger ones. There are two herbicides with effectiveness against cogongrass: glyphosate and imazapyr. Glyphosate is most advisable, since it does not persist in the soil. Just keep in mind that both herbicides can kill non-target plants. Multiple herbicide applications over several years is often necessary for control with frequent monitoring required to quickly treat any regrowth following herbicide applications.

Again, your local Extension Office can provide more guidance on how to attack these types of noxious weeds and others wreaking havoc in your landscape.

For a list of noxious weeds, visit the UF/IFAS Invasive Plant Assessment by going to https://assessment.ifas.ufl.edu/.

By Whitney C. Elmore

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published December 04, 2019

Keeping your lawnmower and your lawn, in tip-top shape

By

Fall and winter months generally mean less mowing is needed, so this is a great time to check and service your lawnmower.

For a longer mower deck life, clean the dirt and grass out from under your mower deck.
(Courtesy of Camila Guillen, UF/IFAS)

Our lawnmowers worked hard this summer — clipping grass between frequent rains.

Getting my lawnmower serviced is one thing on my fall to-do list.

And, it may be on your to-do list, too.

So, I talked with Bob Latimer, a master gardener volunteer, for some advice on how to keep a lawnmower in top shape.

He offers the following suggestions:

  • Maintain your mower according to the owner’s manual. (Check the manual that came with the mower, or look for a manual for that model online).
  • Be sure to buy the correct type of mower for your type of grass. For example, UF/IFAS recommends a reel mower for fine-textured Bermudagrass kept at less than 1-inch high.
  • Check the owner’s manual for the proper setting of the mower deck. Standard St. Augustinegrass cultivars and bahiagrass may need a higher mower deck to cut the thick blades.
  • Keep in mind that gas-powered, self-propelled mowers may be better for large lawns. Battery and electric mowers may be used for smaller lawns.
  • Check the engine oil before you start the mower and refill the engine oil as needed. Non-ethanol gas may be better for the lawnmower and the carburetor.
  • Only buy the amount of gas you need because storing gas in the gas tank may lead to poor running problems or non-starting issues.
  • Check the air filter, and clean or replace it as needed.
  • Inspect the gas tank for dirt, and clean as needed. Be aware that if your lawnmower doesn’t run well, it may be from dirt getting into the gas tank or carburetor.
  • Be sure to clean any dirt from around the gas tank before removing the gas cap. This helps prevents dirt from falling into the gas tank and getting into the carburetor.
  • For self-propelled mowers, locate a qualified service technician to lubricate the axle point that transfers power from the motor to the wheels.
  • Replace the spark plug per the owner’s manual.
  • After mowing, protect the life of your mower deck by washing the dirt and grass out from under it.

Now that your lawnmower is in tip-top shape, here are some tips to help you maintain your lawn.

Remember, mowing your yard at the right height is one of the easiest ways to keep your lawn healthy.

Standard cultivars of St. Augustinegrass, such as ‘Floratam’ and ‘Palmetto,’ should be mowed at 3.5 inches to 4 inches. Dwarf St. Augustinegrass cultivars, such as ‘Delmar’ and ‘Seville,’ should be mowed at 2 inches to 2.5 inches.

Bahiagrass prefers a mowing height of 3 inches to 4 inches, medium- to coarse-textured zoysiagrasses should be mowed at 2 inches to 2.5 inches, and fine-textured zoysiagrass may be maintained at heights below 1 inch. Bermudagrass grows best when kept at 0.5 inch to 1.5 inches.

Additional advice on lawn care can be found in the following reference, which was used for this column: Trenholm, L.E., J.B. Unruh, and J.L. Cisar. (2018). Mowing Your Florida Lawn. IFAS Publication Number ENH10. Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences.

For more information, email , or call (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

By Nicole Pinson

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County. Bob Latimer, UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County Master Gardener Volunteer, contributed to this column.

Published October 2, 2019

Create a native landscape — use right plant, right place

By

Florida has an abundance of beautiful native plants.

There are vines, trees, shrubs, ground covers and a few palms that are native to the state, and can make excellent additions to the landscape.

Coontie, like all cycadas, has ancient origins, according to the University of Florida. This Florida plant, however, is the only cycad native to North America. (Courtesy of University of Florida/IFAS Communications)

Some of these natives even serve as food sources for local wildlife, such as butterflies and some bats, and some can help negate the harsh heat and sun, and reduce the potential for flooding.

However, just because a plant is native doesn’t mean it will thrive everywhere.

Remember: The Florida Friendly Landscaping principle of putting the right plant, right place still applies.

When plants are put in the wrong place, they won’t do as well and, in some cases, they become a problem.

For example, a native that loves the shade won’t survive in the bright sun, or a native that needs to be high and dry won’t make it with “wet feet.”

Putting native plants in the right spots will help prevent many disease and insect problems.

Like other plants, natives need routine maintenance to keep them looking good and living their best life. Occasional pruning and removal of dead tissue is just as necessary with natives as non-native, non-invasive exotics.

Beautyberry, according to the University of Florida, is also called American mulberry. It is native to flatwoods and hammocks, but because of birds, has been spread far and wide.

Planted and maintained correctly, natives will thrive in the Florida landscape.

As with all plants, plant them “high” with the uppermost root of the root ball just above the surrounding soil and mulch, with a layer 2 inches to 3 inches deep that’s no closer than 6 inches from the trunk or base of the plant.

Native plants also need to be watered frequently to get established. Research shows there’s no difference in the amount of water required for establishment between natives and non-native plants.

Keep in mind, however, the bigger the plant, the longer the establishment period; light, frequent hand-watering is best for establishment.

For a three-gallon or smaller plant, irrigate to deliver one gallon of water three to four times per week, for up to five months.

Muhly grass is a native ornamental perennial that produces clouds of flower stalks, according to the University of Florida.

For trees, irrigate with two gallons to three gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter, two to three times per week, for up to six months. Once new roots are observed, less supplemental irrigation is necessary unless there’s an extended period of drought.

There are many great native plants to consider for the landscape, but the basic Florida Friendly Landscaping principles still apply. As with all plants, natives should only be located where there’s enough room for them to grow to their full potential height and width. And, some natives can be aggressive or potentially weedy (i.e., Spanish needle) so be sure to consult the UF/IFAS Aquatic and Invasive Plant directory (http://plants.ifas.ufl.edu/plants-by-common-name/) prior to planting.

Consider planting natives such as bald cypress, muhly grass, coontie, and beautyberry, but only if it’s the right plant for the right place.

For a list of native plants to consider in your landscape, visit http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/ornamentals/native-plants.html.

By Whitney C. Elmore

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published August 14, 2019

Natural ‘enemies’ can attack garden pests

By

Summer months may stress plants because we often see periods of increased rainfall and then periods of drought along with intense heat.

And, when plants are stressed, they may be more susceptible to pests.

When it comes to combating these pests, don’t forget there are many natural enemies that eat pest insects.

Aphids are the favorite food source of the adult convergent ladybeetle, Hippodamia convergens. (Courtesy of James Castner and Lyle Buss, University of Florida/IFAS)

These natural enemies, that are considered good or beneficial, include lacewings, ladybeetles, assassin bugs, spiders, hover flies, dragonflies and mantids.

Some commercial companies raise these natural enemies and ship them to gardeners who then release the insects for pest control.

Prior to purchasing natural enemies, identify the pest insect or mite. This will help you match the appropriate control with the pest.

If you need help identifying the pest, reach out to your local county Extension Office.

Natural enemies that are available from commercial companies may include predatory mites, predatory insects and parasitic wasps.

Ladybeetles (also known as ladybugs) are one of the most common beneficial insects purchased for home gardens. There are many different kinds, or species, of ladybeetles. Some eat specific pests such as aphids or whiteflies, which is why it is important to identify the pest so you know what beneficial insects to purchase or to encourage in your garden.

These beetles help home gardeners – and farmers – because they are phytophagous, which means they eat plant pests that feed on ornamental plants and crops, such as cabbage, corn, melons, peaches and potatoes. Some ladybeetles also attack the Asian citrus psyllid. It is this psyllid that transmits the bacterium that causes the citrus greening disease.

Ladybeetles undergo a complete metamorphosis, starting off as a tiny yellow or orange egg. They look very different as they go through their life cycle (egg, larva, pupa, adult).

However, many ladybeetles are field collected from natural areas where they aggregate (form large groups) and overwinter. They may carry parasites or pathogens. If they are collected when they are reproductively immature, they may be less effective as a biological control.

Adult ladybeetles will often fly away when released. Because of these reasons, it may be better to encourage ladybeetles through your gardening practices rather than purchasing adult ladybeetles.

Did you know that the larval form of the ladybeetle is a more voracious pest-eater than the adult form?

Ladybeetle larvae (some people say they look like small alligators) eat aphids, leafhoppers, mites, mealybugs, scales, thrips, whiteflies and some other insects, such as pest beetles, caterpillars and lacebugs.

There is a variety of colors and patterns among the larvae of various ladybeetle species.

The life cycle of the ladybeetle reminds us that insects may look very different as they grow and develop through their different stages. Because the larvae can look very different from the adults, knowing how to recognize insects can help you figure distinguish between the good insects from the pests.

Of the many different ladybeetles, some prey on specific plant pests. Delphastus catalinae eats whiteflies. Cryptolaemus montrouzieri, also known as the mealybug destroyer (my favorite) eats mealybugs. Hippodamia convergens larvae can eat between 30 and 50 aphids per day.

If you purchase adult ladybeetles, be sure to match the ladybeetle species that will eat the pest you’ve identified in your garden. Purchase ladybeetle larvae when possible, and buy from reputable companies that sell ladybeetles that are parasite- and disease-free. Check the Association of Natural Biocontrol Producers (ANBP) website for a list of companies.

There is a variety of colors and patterns among the larvae of various ladybeetle species.

Interestingly, the UF/IFAS Extension Entomology and Nematology department explains that ladybeetles are pollinators, and they will also feed on pollen, honeydew and nectar from flowers, when prey is scarce. But, in order to reproduce, they need to eat live prey.

You can encourage ladybeetles – and other beneficial insects – without having to buy them.

To attract the good bugs to your garden:

  • Plant a variety of flowers that bloom at different times of the year and that have different colors and flower shapes
  • Provide a refuge for insects by reducing or eliminating pesticide use.

Alternatively, soft pesticides, such as insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, spinosad and Bacillus thuringiensis (also known as Bt), may be used for many pests

The soft pesticides pose less risk to non-target organisms, such as beneficials and pollinators. Consider native plants that may attract specialized pollinators. Plants that contain structures called extrafloral nectaries are especially attractive to beneficial insects.

If you’d like more information about this, consult these sources, which were used in this column:

For additional information, email or call (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published July 24, 2019

Pointers for easy pest control in your garden

By

Spring gardening is upon us, a time when many Florida gardeners plant vegetables, trees and landscape shrubs. If we have turf, we pay attention to bare spots, patches and insects.

As your plants and turf grow, be on the lookout for pests and problems. Try to notice issues early and get help from your local Extension office, if needed.

Consider using less toxic pest control methods and products around edible crops. (Nicole Pinson)

Some of the easiest and least expensive strategies for mitigating pest and disease problems include:
• Choose the right plant for the right place

  • Select plants for site conditions and pest resistance
  • Plant a diverse garden
  • Use mulch
  • Pull weeds
  • Sanitize tools, when needed
  • Encourage natural enemies (good bugs that prey on pest bugs)

Of course, there are recommendations for pest and weed control, both online and through word-of-mouth.

Some are anecdotal; others are research-based.

Research-based recommendations have been tested in Florida and these recommendations promote using products according to the label. For example, although moth balls are a registered pesticide with the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), their use in the landscape to control pests and nuisance wildlife is prohibited. It is against the law when moth balls are used in this way.

When using chemical products, start with the least toxic methods. These products generally cause less harm to non-target insects and animals, and some may be used in organic gardening.

These are some least toxic products and the pests they control:

  • Neem oil for soft-bodied insects, such as aphids, scales and whiteflies, cucumber beetles, caterpillars and spider mites
  • Neem extracts with azadirachtin for caterpillars, flea beetles, weevils, aphids and leafhoppers
  • Spinosad for fire ants, thrips, sawflies, caterpillars (such as armyworms, bean leafroller, cabbage looper, corn earworm/fruitworm, diamondback moth and pickleworm), flies, beetles, spider mites and thrips
  • Bt-k (Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki) for caterpillars, such as armyworms, bean leafroller, cabbage looper, corn earworm/fruitworm, fall webworm, loopers, bagworms, hornworms and squash vine borer
  • Bt (other Bacillus thuringiensis varieties) for fly larvae (mosquitoes, fungus gnats), wax moth larvae and some beetles
  • Horticultural oil (petroleum-based) for soft-bodied insects and mites, including scales, aphids, spider mites, mealybugs and whiteflies
  • Insecticidal soap (potassium salts of fatty acid) for soft-bodied insects and mites, including soft scales, aphids, mealybugs and whiteflies
  • Diatomaceous earth (silica shells of diatoms) for ants, fleas, bed bugs, cockroaches, millipedes, sowbugs, and other small, soft-bodied insects

Plant a diverse garden to control pests and disease. Take a proactive, less toxic pest control approach.

Spring is a great time to be on the lookout for pests and problems.

If you are looking for where to purchase beneficial organisms, also known as “natural enemies,” check this publication: “Guidelines for Purchasing and Using Commercial Natural Enemies and Biopesticides in North America,” by Lynn M. LeBeck and Norman C. Leppla. Specifically, check Tables 1 and 2, for suppliers.

Consider adding plants that attract pollinators and beneficial insects. Some of these plants also have extrafloral nectaries, which are nectar-producing glands found in some plant families, that are separate from the flower. Passionvines are one type of plant with these extrafloral nectaries.

To find out more, check out these IFAS publications: “Natural Products for Managing Landscape and Garden Pests in Florida,” and “Organic Vegetable Gardening in Florida.”

For additional information, contact or (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published June 05, 2019

Prune-and-pass plants make great gifts

By

There are not many more rewarding experiences in life than planting and propagating your own plants and watching them grow.

Giving someone special a gift is usually at the top of that list, too.

But, growing a gift is even more special.

The passion flower plant attracts the Gulf Frittilary butterfly. (Courtesy of UF/IFAS Communications)

Many plants can be easily grown and pieces passed along as gifts with some simple pruning and propagation techniques. The resurrection or rain lily is a great example. These Southern staples seemingly spring up out of nowhere in summer during the heavy rains.

Rain lilies grow from clusters of bulbs that can be easily dug up and divided, making them perfect for sharing. Divide them in summer and plant them in sunny spots with moist but well-drained soils. It may take them a year to bloom but when they do, they are spectacular when planted en masse or as singles. These are good butterfly attractants, too.

Four o’ clocks are perennial plants that grow well throughout Florida. Their trumpet-shaped flowers come in a variety of colors and invite hummingbirds. Four o’ clocks will bloom in late spring throughout summer in sunny locations. While they’ll grow easily from seed, they will grow from tubers that you can dig in fall and give away to friends.

Plant the tubers with roots down and deep enough so that the top of the tuber is about 1-inch deep and keep them moist but not wet. Choose planting spots wisely though as four o’ clocks can be somewhat aggressive in the landscape.

Passion flower plants with their wavy petals, and shades of purple and lavender are quite beautiful.

A must have for butterfly enthusiasts is the passion flower, which attracts the Gulf Frittilary.

Passion flower is great for dry conditions and will wind its way up and around a trellis or fence in sunny areas. The wavy petals, 3-inches to 5-inches wide— in shades of purple and lavender — are quite beautiful.

To share, simply use a sharp pair of pruners to clip off 4-inch to 6-inch-long cuttings below a node. Strip away the bottom row of leaves and plant into a moist potting soil. Keep the cuttings moist and in a shady spot. After about a month, new roots should be forming, which means they are ready for gifting.

One of the easiest plants for Florida gardening is also quite drought resistant and beautiful throughout the summer. The crinum (lily) thrives for many years with little to no care. You can plant them in moist and dry areas, and while they do prefer partly shady locations, they can withstand sunny spots.

Plan to divide these plants in the winter, when they aren’t actively growing. Dig around the clump, lift it up and remove any bulb offshoots. Replant those bulbs with the most slender portion of the bulb upright and just above ground.

Crinum care involves nothing more than removing old blooms. Just be prepared for new bulbs to take a year or more to flower.

If you have a friend with a shady spot, consider gifting them a Peacock ginger. Peacock ginger will produce pink or purple flowers in the summer, but their foliage is their most striking characteristic. Dark green, round to oval, medium to large leaves with lime green, purple or even white or silvery splotches make these groundcovers stand out. They do lose their leaves in winter, but they’ll return in spring.

Simply dig up and divide the rhizomes (underground stems) in winter and plant these about ½-inch below the soil surface in well-drained, shady areas. Keep them watered until established.

If you’re looking for an explosion of color, you’ll want to plant crocosmia. Flowers of red, orange or yellow will pop in May and June. These plants prefer sunny areas or part shade and will grow quickly, sometimes flopping over into huge “sprays” of color. You might consider adding support or using a trellis for these. Pass these to friends by lifting the clump and dividing in spring. These make great additions to most any landscape and are usually drought tolerant after established.

Most any plant can be propagated and passed along to friends and family.

Passion flower is great for dry conditions and will wind its way up and around a trellis or fence in sunny areas.

Many easily propagated plants tend to be invasive, which is what makes them so easy to grow in the first place.

Invasive plants are not something we want to share, especially with those we love.

To be sure what you want to prune and pass isn’t invasive, refer to the UF/IFAS Center for Aquatic and Invasive Plants directory where you can easily determine whether your intended gift is invasive or not, at Plants.ifas.ufl.edu/plants-by-common-name/.

There is a vast array of methods for propagating plants – some just take more ingenuity and expertise than others.

Passing along plants is a great way to tell someone special you’re thinking of them since there’s a bit of thought and elbow grease that goes into the process.

You’ll have a special connection to the recipient since you’ll share the same experience of watching the same plant grow and thrive.

For more advanced propagation methods, refer to the UF/IFAS Fact Sheet at EDIS.ufl.edu/mg108.

Just remember the first principle of Florida-Friendly Landscaping; always plant the right plant in the right place.

By Whitney C. Elmore

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published May 15, 2019

Celebrate Earth Day in the garden: Reduce, reuse and recycle

By

Rain barrels, compost and using organic matter for mulch are some excellent ways to go green in the garden.

But, there also are endless ways to upcycle outdoors to attract wildlife, while reducing, reusing, and recycling more nontraditional items into creative and fun, and practical items.

As Earth Day 2019 approaches, which is officially on April 22, consider using those old nylons to tie up newly planted trees or stake a tomato plant.

Egg cartons are great for growing transplants. (Courtesy of the University of Florida)

A milk jug with multiple holes poked in the lid makes an excellent watering can for gently sprinkling flower pots.

You can also cut a milk jug in half and use the bottom half as a planter for seeds (just cut a few slits in the bottom for drainage) and the top half as a soil scoop with a built-in handle.

Have some old mini-blinds that you just can’t bring yourself to throw out? Cut the slats into 6-inch strips and use them for plant labels in the garden.

Plastic or foam drinking cups make great seed starters (again cut a few slits in the bottom for drainage), as do fabric shopping bags, which look beautiful hanging on a porch or along a wall with trailing flowers flowing out and over the top.

Or, you can take paper towel or toilet paper tubes, partially roll them in a few sheets of newspaper and fold over the bottom, slip out the tube and voila! You have instant biodegradable seed-starting containers that you can plant directly into the garden without having to remove the seedling.

Old newspapers and cardboard boxes make outstanding weed blockers. Simply layer them over weedy spots in the garden and overlap them slightly to block the sun from reaching the ground, top them with some soil or mulch to hold them in place, and you’ll have months of excellent weed control. Just avoid the glossy or waxy paper products, as they might leach things into the environment that don’t belong.

Egg cartons are great for growing transplants. And, for a splash of color and whimsy, old wine bottles can be partially buried upside down, one after the next, along paths and flower beds to make beautiful borders that will add an enchanting decorative touch with many colors and heights.

Got an old mailbox? Don’t throw it out. Remove the door and add a block of wood to seal the opening. Cut a central hole cut out of the block for birds to enter and exit. No need to add strings or nesting material as these can be harmful to wildlife. The birds will do the heavy lifting on move-in day to build their nests inside.

Or, remove the mailbox door and add dozens of various widths of bamboo shoots to create a bee abode. More pollinators mean more flowers and fruits in your garden, and a healthier environment.

Plastic drink bottles can be turned into mini-greenhouses by simply removing the bottom and using the top half as a cover to protect tender seedlings from cold, with the bottom becoming a planter.

Old glass plates or chinaware make pretty “puddlers” for butterflies, hummingbirds and other pollinators needing to rest and drink from shallow water. Even an old boot can make a great garden planter that will surely get some attention.

Most anything that seems like it has lived out its useful life can be helpful in the garden.

Place old dryer sheets or the lint from the dryer lint trap in the bottom of a pot to prevent soil from flowing out of the bottom of the pot.

Old T-shirts work well for this, too.

Not listening to those old CDs anymore? String them together and use them to harmlessly ward off birds from using your garden as a buffet.

Find an old wooden pallet or gutter? These can easily be turned into great planters for shallow rooted plants, such as strawberries or ornamentals such as petunias.

Lean a pallet up against a tree or barn and let the plants flow down like a trellis. Beautiful and functional!

Arrange three or four pallets, turned on end and tied together to form a square and you have a compost bin.

The possibilities are endless.

Going green is easy, cheap and environmentally beneficial for us all.

Upcycling household items to something with a useful, new life can be rewarding and fun. Let the creative juices flow, get the kids or grandkids involved and make a difference this Earth Day.

By Whitney C. Elmore and Emily Carter

Dr. Whitney Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension Director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III. Emily Carter is an intern from the University of Florida.

Published April 17, 2019

Spring is the time to plant cheerful flowers

By

Florida has a long warm season and a shorter cool season.

We are now in our cooler months, which is a time to plant cool season annuals.

An annual is a plant that completes its life cycle in one season. These annuals offer bright color choices. They are plants such as pansies and petunias that might remind us of “up North.”

Colorful annuals may attract pollinators and make great indoor arrangements. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

You can plant many annual, spring flowers January through April.

You may also want to mix spring flowers into your existing containers and landscape beds. When planting flowers in containers, choose pots that are large enough for the plants. Pots that are too small may dry out quickly, which requires more frequent watering. Flower pots that are too small may also stress plants by causing them to repeatedly wilt and bounce back.

Spring flowers planted in clumps or masses will look more dramatic than flowers planted in small groups or individually.

Be sure to find out if your spring flowers prefer full sun or part shade. For example, most wax begonias would prefer some relief from afternoon sun and grow best in a part-shade environment.

Have you ever wondered what a snapdragon tastes like? Consider planting a few edible spring flowers. Edible flowers add a nice touch when used as a garnish to soups, salads and other dishes. It’s fun to eat flowers with kids, and edible flowers can help them appreciate the garden.

Easy to try edible spring flowers include dianthus, pansies, Johnny jump-ups, and snapdragons. Do not eat flowers that have been treated with pesticides.

Some annual plants perform double-duty. Not only are they beautiful flowers, but they also provide nectar and pollen for pollinators. If you’d like to plant spring flowers to attract pollinators, try ageratum, dahlberg daisies, melampodium and zinnias.

Snapdragons and dianthus are both edible spring flowers.

Most spring flowers require little care. If you compost or amend your soil with organic matter, mix that in before you plant your flowers. You can apply a slow-release fertilizer, add a 2-inch to 3-inch layer of mulch around the base of plants to conserve water, and water when needed. Watering with a handheld wand or micro-irrigation may reduce damage to flowers that can be caused by overhead irrigation.

Perform routine pinching or “deadheading” to remove spent flowers and encourage the formation of new flower buds.

To deadhead flowers:

  • Look for blooms or flower clusters that are past their prime and have already bloomed.
  • Cut these back to a node with hand pruners or floral scissors (A node is a place on the plant stem where leaves develop).
  • Make a cut just above the node and compost the spent flower stems.

This practice helps plants stay healthy, invest their energy into producing more flowers and keeps them from getting leggy.

As you deadhead your flowers, learn whether or not these old flower stalks contain seeds.

The seeds of some flowers may be planted easily in the garden, or in small pots, to provide you with more plants and more color.

Scout or check your garden for pests regularly. Many pests that affect spring flowers, such as aphids and mealybugs, may be treated with less toxic products, such as insecticidal soaps and horticultural oils. These products are available at local garden centers and nurseries.

Protect your plants during frosts by covering them with frost fabric, a sheet or blanket, or a cardboard box.

Petunias are cool season annuals that may be grown in the landscape, flower pots, or hanging baskets. Some petunias are fragrant and smell lovely during the evening.

Don’t forget to enjoy your flowers indoors. Examples of spring flowers that make great indoor flower arrangements include snapdragons, dianthus, cosmos, delphinium and gomphrena. Use them, along with your garden greenery (palm leaves, fern fronds, shrub branches), to make inexpensive bouquets.

Share photos of your spring flower garden on our Florida-Friendly LandscapingTM  Facebook page.

Sources for this column included these IFAS publications, “Natural Products for Managing Landscape and Garden Pests in Florida” and “Gardening with Annuals in Florida.”

For additional information, or sources of information on this topic, contact or (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published January 30, 2019

Seasonal growing — for food and color

By

Short, cool days don’t necessarily scream gardening season.

But, many vegetables, herbs and beautiful flowers just love winter in Florida. December is a good month to plant cool season herbs, such as sage, dill, fennel, cilantro, thyme and parsley.

Veggies, such as carrot, cabbage, lettuce and cauliflower do well when planted at this time, too.

Azalea (Courtesy of UF/IFAS Communications)

Add a pop of color to your landscape by planting petunias, pansies, violets or snapdragons in December or early in the New Year.

Be sure to plant these in clusters — and stick to one type of plant to reduce the chance of cluttering the landscape with too many plants that don’t fit the rest of the landscape at this time of year.

Remember to collect those fallen leaves in fall and winter for use in compost, which will benefit your gardens later in the season.

Collecting the leaves is a great way to recycle and add organic matter to the garden for free. (To learn more about composting, visit: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep323).

January also is a great month for gardening in Central Florida.

Camellias come in a variety of sizes, shapes and colors. Some are even fragrant. January is a good time to plant camellias.

Cabbage

Deciduous fruit trees, or those that lose their leaves in winter, such as peaches, nectarines and plums, also should be planted in January. This gives their roots the best chance to grow and anchor the plant for nutrient uptake prior to the hotter and usually drier months of spring.

Start growing broccoli, carrots, lettuce, kale and potatoes at this time, too.

You’ve also probably noticed that many of the landscapes in Central Florida feature crapemyrtles. These small, popular trees charm us with color and variety, but often fall victim to heavy pruning at the wrong time of the year, which leaves them mutilated and struggling to survive.

The best time of the year to prune broken or crossing branches and remove seed pods from crapemyrtles is in January. Heavy pruning, or “crape murder,” is not necessary on these plants. A trim of slim, leggy branches will spruce them up in winter and prepare them for spring. (For more detailed information on proper pruning of crapemyrtles, visit: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep399).

Also, don’t let those colorful poinsettias you received as gifts in December go to waste. Plant them in a sunny, well-drained spot in the garden in January or February. They make excellent additions to the landscape. (Visit: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep349 for more information on using poinsettias in the landscape).

Azaleas, a Southern flowering staple suitable for the shadier areas, perform well when planted in February, as do many veggies.

While some veggies are cold-hardy, it might be necessary to protect more sensitive veggies on nights when frost or freeze is predicted. Cold protection, for sensitive plants, is necessary on nights when the temps dip below 40OF.

Crapemyrtle

Minimize damage to sensitive plants by covering with a light blanket or sheet, making sure it extends all the way down to the ground so that the warmth of the soil can move up into the canopy of the plant. (For more information on cold protection, visit: http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/weather/preparing-the-landscape-for-cold-weather.html).

February is a good month to prune away old rose canes and do selective pruning to shape the plant. Fertilize in February with a balanced fertilizer and apply mulch at this time. Within two months, your roses should be blooming beautifully.

March brings warmer weather, but it’s usually quite dry. Winter annuals will start to struggle with the higher temperatures, so consider planting salvia and caladiums (a perennial) to provide quick color well into the summer months.

March also ushers in warm-season vegetable planting. Squash, peppers and beans grow well when planted in March. Tomatoes are widely popular, but don’t grow well in the summer; consider planting them as soon as the threat of frost has gone, which is normally late February into the middle of March.

As soon as azaleas stop blooming, prune them in late March to achieve a better shape and denser plant (avoid hedge clippers on these plants though). March is the month to begin fertilizing palms, azaleas and camellias. Use balanced fertilizers designed for each of these plants, as their nutritional needs vary along with pH requirements. (For information on landscape fertilization, visit: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/mg448).

Winter is a fine time to garden in Central Florida. You can prep for spring gardening, grow your own veggies and add beautiful color to your landscape.

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published January 2, 2019

Keep your lawn healthy during winter and fall

By

As we move into fall and winter, there are some things you can do to keep your lawn looking good.

First things first: Identify the type of grass you have in your lawn.

Next, read the appropriate University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (UF/IFAS) publication for your type of turfgrass.

Follow UF/IFAS turfgrass recommendations with regard to mowing, watering, fertilizing and pest control. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

For example, Central Florida has St. Augustinegrass (the most common lawn in Florida), bahiagrass, zoysiagrass and Bermudagrass.

One resource that can prove very helpful is a free online library at the University of Florida called EDIS, which stands for “Electronic Data Information Source.” (The EDIS website is http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/).

After you know what type of turf you have, be sure to keep track of how much water your lawn gets by rain and irrigation. An inexpensive rain gauge is a good tool to measure rainfall.

During cool, winter months, many people skip a week of watering. Calibrate your sprinklers to make sure you deliver ½-inch to ¾-inch of water per irrigation event. If your sprinklers (or rainfall) provide that amount of water a few times per week, irrigation or rainfall is enough.

You’ll also need to check your fertilizer applications. Remember, Florida turfgrasses are warm-season grasses. They all go dormant during winter, which results in slower growth, and less needed inputs of water and fertilizer.

Lawns may turn brown or appear off-color, but resist the urge to fertilize your lawn in winter.

Winter fertilizer applications can damage lawns, especially zoysiagrass lawns, which have a very slow spring “green-up” period. Zoysiagrass prefers to be “spoon-fed” fertilizer. A winter fertilizer application on zoysiagrass can cause unhealthy turf the following year.

There’s a chart available through the University of Florida that provides general fertilizer recommendations for different turfgrasses. It also provides guidance on when to apply a complete fertilizer, slow-release fertilizer and other nutrients, if needed.

Look for the Central Florida section, then find your type of turfgrass.

The chart also provides recommendations for basic, moderate and high maintenance levels.

Turfgrasses which are under the “basic” or “moderate” schedule for Central Florida have no fertilizer applications during December, January and February, according to the chart.

It’s also important to keep in mind that many of our Florida soils are high in phosphorous (P) (we mine phosphorous locally). Therefore, you should not apply phosphorous unless you have a soil test report showing a P-deficiency. This happens occasionally, but since most of our soils have sufficient P, adding more in the form of fertilizer will not produce a crop or plant response because there is enough available. However, adding more P than needed can result in increased nutrient runoff and leaching, which affects our water bodies, groundwater and springs.

How do you avoid fertilizer that has P? When you shop, look for products with zero or very low phosphorous. These products are becoming increasingly available because of summer fertilizer ordinances and because people understand the potential for pollution if used when they’re not needed.

It’s also good to know that proper mowing height is one of the main things you can do to promote a healthy lawn.

Regular cultivars of St. Augustinegrass should be mowed at 3 inches to 4 inches; most dwarf cultivars of St. Augustinegrass should be mowed at 2.5 inches; bahiagrass should be mowed at 3 inches to 4 inches; zoysiagrass at 2 inches to 2.5 inches; and Bermudagrass at 0.5 inches to 1.5 inches.

In shady areas, consider replacing sod with an appropriate groundcover and mulch. Turfgrass needs at least six hours of sunlight daily, so if an area isn’t receiving that much, the lawn there will likely never thrive. A groundcover may be a better choice.

If weeds are an issue, find out if they are broadleaf, sedge or grassy weeds.

Make a note on your calendar and plan to use a preemergence herbicide around Feb. 15 in Central Florida to stop weed seeds from germinating and to reduce weed pressure next year.

A soil fertility test can tell you if your lawn is low in potassium. We’re learning a lot about potassium, including the fact that it contributes to healthy plants and turfgrass, and that it helps with disease resistance. When buying fertilizer, make sure the nitrogen (N) to potassium (K) is balanced with a 1:1 or 2:1 ratio.

Each fall, I over-seed my lawn with annual ryegrass. Ryegrass keeps weeds down during winter months and provides beautiful “Easter” grass color until it begins to warm up around April the following year.  You can put ryegrass down in months that end in “R,” but I generally try to seed ryegrass in September/October to enjoy the bright, green color for months.

For additional information, contact or (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Sources for this column included “Mowing Your Florida Lawn” by L.E. Trenholm, J.B. Unruh and J.L. Cisar; and, Weed Management Guide for Florida Lawns by J.B. Unruh, R.G. Leon, B.J. Brecke and L.E. Trenholm.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published December 5, 2018