The Laker/Lutz News

Serving Pasco since 1981/Serving Lutz since 1964

Nature Notes

Now’s the time to get control of the weeds in your lawn

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Did you have weeds in your lawn last year?

I sure did.

One of my resolutions is to gain control of the weeds in my bahiagrass lawn. Common weeds that invade Florida lawns include heartleaf drymary and crabgrass.

Heartleaf drymary is one of my least favorite weeds because its sticky seeds get all over my dog’s furry paws.

Homeowners have few options to control crabgrass in the lawn. However, pre-emergence herbicides can help. (Nicole Pinson)

Crabgrass is another difficult weed to control. There are few options once it grows in the lawn.

Post-emergence herbicides work on established weeds, but some may harm existing landscape plants or turfgrass.

For example, there are no effective post-emergence controls for weeds such as crabgrass in most lawns. You could spot treat with a product such as glyphosate, but you would need to use care not to spray the turfgrass, as it can injure your turf.

Additionally, post-emergence herbicides offer no protection against future weeds

However, there’s another option in the weed control toolbox: pre-emergence herbicides.

These herbicides can help reduce the amount of summer weeds because they are applied before weeds grow and seeds sprout. They work because they prevent or inhibit the weed seeds from sprouting or germinating.

These products are not a magical fix to apply throughout the year. If you want to get a handle on weeds before they grow, you must apply pre-emergence herbicides in late winter or early in the year.

Timing is critical.

If applied too late, they won’t work, and they will be a waste of time, money, and product.

Heartleaf drymary is a pesky weed. It sticks to people and to pets.

The general rule of thumb is this: apply pre-emergence herbicides in Central Florida around mid-February — Feb. 15 is a date often recommended, but technically, they should be applied “before soil temperatures remain above 50°F for 24 consecutive hours.”

In addition to initial treatment, it’s very important to make a follow-up application within 60 days of the initial treatment.

To find a pre-emergence herbicide suitable for your lawn, first identify your type of grass (St. Augustinegrass, bahiagrass, zoysiagrass or Bermudagrass). Next, look for the active ingredients listed under pre-emergence herbicides.

When you visit the garden center, check product labels for one of these active ingredients. Local nurseries, hardware stores, feed stores and professional landscape supply companies may carry these products. Be sure to read and follow product labels.

Remember, hand-pulling weeds is always an option.

Be sure to practice good landscape management practices to reduce weeds.  These practices include to provide your lawn the right amount of irrigation (but not too much because weeds love water), apply fertilizer appropriately (but not too much because weeds love fertilizer), and mow your lawn at the recommended mowing height.

Did you know that proper mowing is one of the most important things you can do to improve the health of your lawn? Correct mowing heights for turfgrasses:

Regular cultivars of St. Augustinegrass 3.5 inches to 4 inches

Dwarf cultivars of St. Augustinegrass 2.5 inches

Bahiagrass 3 inches to 4 inches

Zoysiagrass 2 inches to 2.5 inches

Bermudagrass 0.5-inch to 1.5 inches

If you have trouble identifying a weed, contact your local Extension office for help.

You may learn how to take care of your grass by visiting University of Florida’s online library at Edis.ifas.ufl.edu. Type the name of your grass, for example St. Augustinegrass, in the search box to get a list of publications.

Pre-emergence herbicides may save you time and money by preventing those weeds from sprouting. I hope you, along with me, get a handle on our lawn weeds this year!

References:
Telenko, D.E.P., R. Leon, and J.B. Unruh. (2016). Crabgrass Biology and Management in Turf. IFAS Publication Number ENH 1134. Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved from http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/EP/EP39500.pdf

Trenholm, L.E., J.B. Unruh, and J.L. Cisar. (2015). Mowing Your Florida Lawn. IFAS Publication Number ENH 10. Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved from http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/LH/LH02800.pdf

For additional information, email , or call (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

More information is available on crabgrass control and the time to apply pre-emergence herbicides, by going to this link: tinyurl.com/yd3zy2zg. The document lists various turfgrasses we grow in Florida and the pre-emergence herbicides available for each type of grass. These herbicides are listed by their active ingredients, not brand names.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published January 17, 2018

Expressing gratitude to bees, for all that they do for us

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Gardeners are a grateful people, and part of our gratitude can be traced to bees.

This year, I enjoyed four butternut squashes from our garden.

I was only able to enjoy this harvest, though, because of bees.

The bees and I have a win-win partnership.

I plant flowers and vegetables. That gives bees a food source, and they, in turn, pollinate the plants.

Bees and pollinators are important to people for many reasons:

  • One-third of the food we eat comes from animal-pollinated plants.
  • They help pollinate our native plants and wildflowers.
  • They pollinate blueberries, an $82 million per year industry in Florida.
  • Forage plants, used by meat and dairy industries, depend on pollinators to produce seed.
  • More than 100 crops in the U.S., such as apples, squash, pumpkin, cranberries, onions, carrots and blueberries, benefit from pollination.

But, there are concerns about bee decline.

Several factors contribute to bee decline, including bee nutrition.

Bees gather nectar and pollen from flowers. The nectar provides bees carbohydrates and minerals to help them with flight, colony maintenance and general daily activities.

Butternut squash, like melons, pumpkins, zucchini and cucumbers, rely on bees for pollination. If you lack bees, your vines may not produce vegetables and fruits.
(Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

Pollen provides protein, fats, minerals and vitamins, and aids in the development of young bees.

But, did you know that all pollen is not created equal? The nutritive components of pollen differ among plants.

Bee nutrition is important to bee health and the development of young bees.

A yard or garden with only a few plants may provide less pollen variety for the bees. However, a diverse garden can provide bees more flower choices, different pollen components and, hopefully, better nutrition.

Eric Mader with the University of Minnesota explains, “As a general rule, gardeners who want to conserve bees should provide a minimum of three plant species that bloom at any given time during the growing season.”

Flower diversity includes not only color (red, pink, white, orange, purple and yellow flowers), but also bloom periods, texture and height. Diversity in height can be achieved by planting groundcovers, flowers, vines, shrubs, grasses and trees. Plants that bloom throughout the year, especially late fall, winter, and early spring, provide bees important nutrition during winter.

Simple, inexpensive bouquets from the garden are enjoyed indoors by people, and outdoors by bees and other pollinators.

Add flowers to your garden that have different shapes, such as daisies, clusters, tubular flowers and bell-shaped flowers.

Bees use fine and coarse textured plants (woody stems, leaves and grasses) for nesting materials. Plant in clumps, rather than as single plants, to attract more pollinators and provide nutritional benefits.

Examples of great bee plants include American beautyberry, partridge pea, dotted horsemint, blanket flower, Walter’s viburnum, native milkweeds, frogfruit, larraflower, sunflower, cosmos, mint, African blue basil, salvia, pentas, fennel, dill, black-eyed Susan, grasses, ironweed, blackberry lily, hollies, redbud, saw palmetto, and many more.

Plant a variety of flowers and create long-season food sources to provide bees better nutrition throughout the year.

Thank a bee for its pollinator services as you enjoy your holiday meals.

And, add a few more flowers to your yard or garden so a bee can have a nutritious, happy Thanksgiving.

By Nicole Pinson

References:

Ellis, A., J.D. Ellis, M.K. O’Malley, and C.M. Zettel Nalen.  (2017). The Benefits of Pollen to Honey Bees. IFAS Publication Number ENY152. Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved from http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/IN/IN86800.pdf.

Mader, E.  (2015). Conserving Pollinators: A Primer for Gardeners. University of Minnesota.  Retrieved from http://articles.extension.org/pages/19581/conserving-pollinators:-a-primer-for-gardeners.

For additional information, contact or (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published November 22, 2017

Create your own indoor garden, using houseplants

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A popular trend from Victorian times is making a comeback: Growing houseplants.

If you look online at image-sharing websites, apps, and boards and you’ll find that indoor plants are very popular.

In fact, a new term called “jungalow style” incorporates the use of plants inside homes and offices. Jungalow style brings the beauty and life of plants indoors by integrating them in living areas.

An easy-to-care for “ZZ plant” growing in Nicole Pinson’s office. 

Plants may be grown indoors — both for their beauty and their air quality benefits.

A study by the National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA) conducted regarding air quality and houseplants concluded that a plant is “very important in removing indoor air pollution either directly through its leaves or indirectly through the root/soil pathway” (Wolverton, Douglas, and Bounds, 1989, pg. 10).

Plants tested by NASA include bamboo palm, English ivy, peace lily, Sansevieria laurentii, spider plant, golden pothos, and philodendron.

As with any plant, be sure to follow the first principle of Florida Friendly LandscapingTM: Right Plant, Right Place. This means selecting plants suited to your landscape (or home) based on light, water, temperature, and soil conditions.

My grandmother grew about 20 different African violets. She placed them in the perfect spot in her living room – a north-facing windowsill.

African violets grow well in bright, indirect light. A south-facing window would generally be too sunny for African violets.

You don’t need many plants to create an indoor garden.

Choose easy-to-grow plants such as spider plants, Aglaonema spp., and hoya.

One of my favorite indoor plants is called a “ZZ plant” or Zamioculcas zamiifolia. ZZ plants have shiny, dark green leaves. They thrive in low-light environments and are drought-tolerant. ZZ plants have no significant pest or disease problems. The main concern is proper watering. ZZ plants need soil that drains well. Water your ZZ plant and let it dry out between waterings to reduce the chance of root rot, which can be caused by too much water.

Generally, you should have few pests with indoor plants, but you may occasionally encounter mealybugs and whiteflies. If this happens, remove the pot from your house or office and place it outside in a similar environment. Often, natural predators will eat the pest insects. You may also use least toxic pest control methods, such as horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps. Some pests, such as mealybugs or aphids, may be treated by wetting or removing the insects with a cotton swab dipped in a solution of one-half water and one-half rubbing alcohol.

To avoid disease problems, water appropriately. This requires some care and monitoring of your plants. Plants grown indoors don’t dry out as quickly as plants grown outside.

Monitoring your plants to provide sufficient – but not too much – water can be tricky at first. But, over time you’ll know your plants’ watering needs. For example, I have an English ivy in a windowsill. It requires more water during the summer months than it does during the winter months. Additionally, some months I water it every two weeks because that is all the water it needs!

A word of caution: Some houseplants may be considered invasive when planted in the landscape. Be considerate of the growing characteristics of houseplants and check their status prior to planting them in the ground.

You can look up plant names and view pictures of invasive plants on the UF/IFAS Assessment website found at https://assessment.ifas.ufl.edu/. For example, searching for the plant Sansevieria will yield results for three plants included in the Assessment. You will see that Sansevieria cylindrica is not considered a problem species at this time. However, Sansevieria trifasciata is listed as invasive in Central Florida and throughout the rest of the state.

Get creative with your indoor garden by choosing flower pots that match your décor, or try growing plants in a terrarium.

I enjoy searching for vintage or antique pots in thrift stores, yard sales, and antique shops.

Keep an eye out for unique finds when traveling. I spotted the geometric flower vase — now hanging in my office — at a garden center in Nashville, Tennessee. You may find other creative containers such as pottery, vases, jars, concrete planters, baskets, wall pockets, and galvanized buckets.

The UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County office can help answer your gardening questions. We are open Monday through Friday, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Our office and gardens are located at 5339 County Road 579, Seffner, Florida 33584.

For additional information, contact or (813) 744-5519, Ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County. The author gratefully acknowledges Master Gardener Nancy Ham for contributing to this article.

Published Oct. 18, 2017

 

Replanting and restoring trees following Hurricane Irma

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Some of Hurricane Irma’s most affected inhabitants of Florida were trees.

Some trees were snapped. Some twisted out of the ground. Some were left leaning with exposed roots, or were stripped of large limbs and foliage.

The good news is that not all of the damaged trees must be removed.

The test is whether they are a structural hazard or if they have sustained too much damage.

Uprooted trees have a tougher time surviving, but some can. If a tree is a good candidate for replanting, if the root ball is exposed, keep it moist, and replant as quickly as possible. (Courtesy of Whitney C. Elmore)

It’s impossible to make a broad statement that would apply to every single situation.

So, if you have a tree that could damage structures or ones that possibly pose a threat to humans, pets or livestock, consider enlisting the help of a certified arborist to help you make decisions about the best course of action.

You can go to TreesAreGood.com to find certified arborists in your area.

Many species of trees can survive damage, but it’s the younger, smaller trees that have the best chance.

The good news is that in situations where you don’t believe safety is an issue, you may be able to restore some damaged trees back to good health.

Trees that might be restorable include those without exposed roots or ones that have not been lifted from the soil; and ones without cracks in major limbs and certainly not in the trunk.

Trees that were strong and healthy prior to the storm are most likely the best candidates for restoration.

Trees with decay or bark inclusions — weak areas between multiple trunks and stems — are not good candidates for restoration. Even if these weakened trees weren’t visibly affected by Hurricane Irma winds, they are living on borrowed time. Consider consulting an arborist about removal.

Here are some general ways to restore salvageable trees back to good health after a storm:

  • Trees with only small broken branches: Many healthy trees can lose as much as three-quarters of their smaller branches and leaves, and still recover. If broken branches are less than 4 inches in diameter, you can easily prune them off and the plant should bounce back. Prune them sooner, rather than later, to prevent them from falling and causing damage, or decaying and causing potential disease in the tree.
  • Trees with defoliated or damaged leaves: Trees that lose leaves usually will not die. You will likely see new foliage soon, and if not now, by spring.
  • Trees flooded with saltwater should be irrigated with fresh water as soon as possible, to rinse salts beyond the root zone.
  • Trees with large broken limbs: Depending on the tree species, some trees can lose a major limb and regain good health. In general, younger, smaller trees that lose a major branch are more apt to survive than old, large trees. Prune off jagged edges from broken branches using proper pruning practices (call the UF/IFAS Pasco Extension Office for instructions or, for more specific information, visit edis.ifas.ufl.edu/topic_tree_pruning.
  • Trees sitting in water: Some species of trees are capable of withstanding flooding, but only for short periods of time. Trees with flooded roots for more than a few days will most likely not survive with a few notable exceptions, such as: pond/bald cypress, red maple, sweet gum and river birch. Roots need oxygen and flooded roots are smothered roots. It’s best to see if the tree survives the flood then remove it later when it becomes apparent that the tree has not survived. If it doesn’t survive, removal and replanting with a more suitable species for that area might be recommended.

Inspect the canopy of all trees, even if they seem stable. Look for broken, dead and hanging branches that might fall later on. Remove those carefully using proper pruning practices and sanitized equipment. Visit tinyurl.com/mwyusyt for information on proper equipment sanitization.

  • Trees that are leaning: Small trees, with trunks less than 4 inches in diameter, that were recently planted, can be replanted and staked if they fell over because of Hurricane Irma. If the root ball is exposed, keep it moist and replant as soon as possible. Prune off any broken roots; place the tree back in the hole, making sure it’s upright, then backfill the hole with the same soil you removed from that hole. Stake it, adjust the stakes often, and remove them when the tree is stable. Water the root ball, with a hose, at least three times a week for the next couple of months.

Larger diameter trees that are leaning, especially those with exposed roots, will most likely have too much root damage to survive. Trying to reset and stake larger leaning or uprooted trees is not advised.

Be patient, and give damaged trees a year to recover. If the tree does not have new growth by the following spring, most likely it’s not going to survive, and you should consider removal.

Palms are different; they are not built like oaks, maples, crape myrtles, etc. They are actually not considered “trees” at all, since they are more closely related to the grasses and corn. They grow much like grasses. The growing portion of these plants is at the very top at the base of the fronds, in an area called the heart. If you find that the heart has broken out of a palm, that palm should be removed. It will not survive or regrow. If the heart is intact, but you find bent fronds covering the heart, they can be removed so they don’t keep the bud from growing. Broken or hanging fronds can be dangerous and should be removed. If you have hanging fronds, only when they are completely brown, should they be removed. Yellow fronds are still supplying the plant with food, so wait to remove those, until the entire frond is brown.

Properly pruned palms and trees are excellent wind breaks around buildings. They diminish the wind and they take the brunt of the storm force winds. Keep your trees healthy, and remove the dangerous or dead ones before the storm by consulting with a certified arborist, sooner rather than later. Take care your trees and palms before and after the storm, and they’ll take care of you.

By Whitney C. Elmore and Jim Moll

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension Director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III. Jim Moll is Florida-Friendly Landscaping Program Coordinator.

Published September 20, 2017

Multiply the plants in your garden, by dividing them

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One of the easiest and most dependable ways to grow new plants is through division.

In case you’ve never heard of it, division is a method of vegetative or asexual reproduction. Many common Florida plants are great candidates for dividing.

Can you think of some? The UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County, along with many other county Extension offices, have teaching and demonstration gardens that you may visit to learn more about Florida Friendly LandscapingTM.

Most plants with ‘lily’ in the name may be divided, such as canna, crinum and daylily. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Examples of plants that you may see in our teaching gardens that are easy to propagate by division include daylily, African iris, rain lilies, society garlic, blackberry lily, Agapanthus, peacock ginger, walking iris, Heliconia, Aspidistra or “cast iron plant,” Bulbine, crinums, amaryllis, ferns, and rhizomatous begonias.

The common Florida shrub Plumbago may also be divided. Plumbago is a great, drought-tolerant plant. It serves as a nectar plant for native pollinators and as a larval host plant for cassius blue butterflies.

Even houseplants such as African violets are easy to propagate by division.

Many perennials — plants that live longer than one year or growing season — thrive when divided.

Before you divide your plants, decide where you’re going to place them.

Are you going to keep them in pots until they grow into more hardy plants? Are you going to plant them directly in the landscape? Will you give them away as gifts?

If you plant them in a pot, be sure the pot is a good size for the plant — that is, not too big and not too small. The pot should also have drainage holes.

Be sure to give the newly potted plants time to adjust to their environment, and keep in mind they may do best for the time being if placed in a part-sun, part-shade location for a few weeks. If you’re planting somewhere else in your garden, check that light and soil conditions are appropriate.

Propagating plants by division requires no special tools, and many of us use a sharp knife, a shovel or a trowel depending on the plant and the size of the root ball.

Here are the steps for propagating your plants by division:

  • Dig up the plant and carefully separate or cut the root ball into sections with a sharp knife, trowel or shovel.
  • Pull apart separate sections so that each division has a crown and root system. The crown is the part of the plant where the roots and stem meet.
  • Replant the parent plant in its previous location or in a new location.
  • Plant the divided plants either in the ground or in nursery pots. If relocating to another part of your garden, make sure it’s the right plant for the right place.
  • Use care to make sure you plant them at the soil line and not planted too deep.
  • Apply a 2-inch to 3-inch layer of mulch above the soil line. Mulch helps conserve water, reduce weed pressure, moderate soil temperatures, and adds organic material to soil over time.
  • Water your newly planted divisions.
  • Monitor your plants until they’re established. The first week may require daily watering. The next two weeks to three weeks may need watering every other day. After that, you can water as needed. However, with landscape plants as with turfgrass, you’ll need to adjust your watering schedule if we get plenty of rain.
  • If plants are in pots, the amount they dry out will depend on the size of the pot and the material of the pot, for instance, whether it is clay, stone or plastic.
  • Apply a controlled-release fertilizer. Controlled-release fertilizers can be more expensive, but they provide a steady supply of nutrients to your plants. Using controlled-release fertilizers may help reduce pollution because less nutrients run off landscapes or leach into groundwater.

Finally, enjoy your garden and your new plants!

For additional information, email , or call (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

The UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County office has two demonstration gardens that teach residents about Florida Friendly LandscapingTM principles. Visitors are welcome Monday through Friday, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Docent tours also are available to groups by appointment. The office and gardens are at 5339 County Road 579 in Seffner.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County. Master Gardener Nancy Ham contributed to this column.

References:

Park Brown, S. (2016). Plant Propagation Techniques for the Florida Gardener. IFAS Publication Number CIR579. Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved from http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/MG/MG10800.pdf.

Park Brown, S. (2014). Gardening with Perennials in Florida. IFAS Publication Number ENH-68. Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved from http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/MG/MG03500.pdf.

Published September 6, 2017

Conserving water, reducing storm water runoff

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When it rains, it pours.

Or, so it seems in Florida.

Central Florida landscapes can easily get 2 inches to 3 inches of rain in a typical afternoon rainstorm.

And, all of this storm water washes over our roads, roofs, gutters, driveways, lawns and landscapes — carrying plant debris, pesticides, fertilizers and other contaminants into our waterways.

By using rain barrels to capture runoff, you can provide a ready source of water to irrigate your landscape. Using rainwater for irrigation can lower your water costs and prevent rapid runoff — reducing the opportunity for fertilizer, debris, pet wastes and other contaminants to be carried into waterways. (Courtesy of University of Florida/IFAS)

Even oil from cars, trash and pest waste are picked up by storm water and deposited into a body of water.

Our lawns and homes are connected, in one way or another, to some body of water.

Some lawns are directly connected to waterways through runoff flowing into surface waters in retention ponds, lakes, streams, or even eventually reaching the Gulf of Mexico.

Other storm waters take a more indirect route through storm drains along our roadways, which eventually flow into the groundwater below.

Storm water runoff carries pollutants into our drinking water supply below ground in the aquifer.

Since our groundwater is very close to the surface in Florida, how we maintain our homes and landscapes has a direct impact on the quality of our drinking water and the irrigation used on crops.

It also affects the wildlife living in these waters.

And, with Florida’s expanding population, our water pollution increases.

Decisions we make influence the health of our water, both in water bodies and below ground — subsequently affecting our health.

When the right plant is planted in the right place, it can thrive without excessive watering. You can use micro-irrigation to deliver water where it is needed, and use mulch to conserve moisture and reduce weeds.

Nitrogen and phosphorous, which are found in fertilizers, contribute to water pollution by fueling the growth of algae.

Algae growth can deplete water of oxygen, leading to fish kills and “blooms” that can smother natural vegetation.

Invasive weeds can overtake “unhealthy” surface waters due to nutrient pollution, and some pesticides can potentially damage aquatic wildlife.

A healthy, maintained lawn and landscape, on the other hand, can filter storm water, reducing these contaminants.

Here are a few simple guidelines to follow around your home that will help reduce storm water runoff and pollutants.

  • Direct downspouts from gutters into your lawn or landscape so that water can soak into the soil and not run across impervious spaces such as driveways and walkways. That will reduce the pollutants carried into water bodies. This also allows the lawn a chance to filter and absorb some contaminants coming from the roof and some of the landscape debris from the gutters. Dead leaves and twigs are full of nutrients that should be recycled in the landscape and not allowed into waterways as pollutants.
  • When possible, use gravel, mulch, and brick (anything permeable) for walkways and patios. These materials allow rainwater to percolate into the ground, filtering contaminants and reducing runoff from your yard.
  • Use rain barrels (or cisterns) to capture rainwater for use in the landscape. This is an excellent way to recycle water, reduce irrigation and lower your water bill. You can mosquito-proof rain barrels easily, hook up two or more to each other, even connect them to your irrigation system and pretty them up with paint or hide them with foliage. Rain barrels are an easy way to fill watering cans for hand watering, too.
  • Build rain gardens, planted with grasses and other plants tolerant of wet areas, to filter runoff. Rain gardens work best in areas where water tends to collect in the landscape or at the bottom of downspouts. They work great for diverting water from walkways or around houses and they can be basically any shape or size needed to handle the water. They even make nice focal points and attract wildlife.
  • Fertilize plants (including turf) only when they are actively growing. Ensure fertilizer is only going on the intended plant material and not impervious spaces, such as driveways or roads, or into ponds, lakes or other water bodies. Use the guard on the fertilizer spreader.
  • Irrigate only when the plants need water; use a rain shutoff device or soil moisture sensor so you’re only irrigating when it’s necessary. Ensure sprinklers are irrigating plants and not pavement.
  • Don’t blow leaves or lawn clippings into the roadways and storm drains. Plant debris is full of nutrients, which contributes to water pollution. Keep clippings on the lawn — they are full of nitrogen. Compost yard waste such as leaves and small branches.
  • Use pesticides responsibly by only using pesticides when necessary, at the right time, and only based on the label’s directions. Identify the pest before using a pesticide, and start with the lowest toxicity pesticides first. In many cases, a pesticide is not necessary for control of certain pests, so call your local UF/IFAS Extension Office for advice.
  • Consider aerating your lawn if compaction is a problem. When done properly, this helps the turf stay healthy, and relieves compaction making it easier for water to percolate down through the soil and not runoff across the surface.
  • Only allow water down storm drains.

Each of us can save money and reduce storm water runoff by following some of these simple steps.

Rainwater falling today represents our past, our present and our future.

Help protect the environment and your personal health.

For more information about Florida-Friendly Landscaping, rain barrels, fertilization, pesticide use, etc., call the University of Florida/IFAS Pasco Extension Office at (352) 518-0156.

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension Director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published July 26, 2017

Cuttings offer an excellent way to propagate plants

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Plants can be successfully grown from cuttings – a method that saves you money and provides you — or your friends — more plants.

Another plus? You don’t need any special equipment.

Crotons are available in many different leaf shapes and colors. Cuttings are a great way to grow a variety of crotons. (Nicole Pinson)

A cutting is a method of asexual reproduction. The new plant will have the same characteristics of the parent plant.

One popular method of propagation is stem cuttings.

Tender new growth forms at the tip of the stem; the stem becomes woodier toward the bottom and the roots.

Stem cuttings of the new growth is easier for beginner gardeners. Cuttings from the woody part of the stem are more difficult to propagate. For instance, you could propagate a croton plant by taking a stem cutting and planting it in a pot.

Use your clean pruners to remove a 4-inch- to 6-inch-section, or cutting, from the main plant. It’s important to note that some plants require cuttings to be longer. For example, plumeria cuttings are 12 inches to 15 inches long.

Be brutal. Remove any flowers from the cutting, and strip off the lower leaves from the stem. You’ll want to keep a few leaves for photosynthesis, but you also want to reduce transpiration and encourage the cutting to put its energy into producing new roots. Some cuttings, like plumeria, need to dry first so a callus forms at the cut end of the stem. If it’s not possible to plant your cutting right away, wrap it in several layers of paper towels and place in a zip-top bag to keep the cutting moist until you’re ready to plant.

Choose an appropriate pot for your cutting. Use clay or plastic containers, but make sure the container has drainage holes so the cutting does not stay too wet. Many people prefer plastic containers (similar to the 4-inch pots you find at the nursery) because they don’t dry out as quickly as clay pots.

Iochroma is a unique garden plant that attracts hummingbirds and butterflies.

Place the cutting upright in a sterile potting mix, planting them about 1-inch deep. Longer cuttings, such as those for plumeria, will need to be planted about 3-inches deep so they stand upright in the pot. Choose potting soil that drains well.

You can try using a rooting hormone. Dip the cutting about ½-inch in the rooting hormone before planting in the soil. Rooting hormones are available at garden centers and nurseries.

Locate your cutting in bright, indirect light so it gets some light but not the hot, afternoon sun. Keep the soil moist until the cutting establishes roots and begins to put out new growth. You may transplant your cutting into the garden once it has established roots and you see new leaves. This process may take a few months, depending on the plant. You could also share your plant with friends or give them as gifts.

Some of my favorite plants to root from cuttings include croton, Chinese rain bell, Dracaena, hibiscus, Euphorbia graminea, African blue basil and firespike. My colleagues, Lynn Barber and JoAnn Hoffman, suggest growing salvia and cat’s whiskers. The publication Gardening with Perennials in Florida lists perennials that may be grown from cuttings. See this link http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/MG/MG10800.pdf for more information on plant propagation and how to design your own “small-scale propagation unit.”

For additional information, contact Nicole Pinson at or (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County. The author gratefully acknowledges Master Gardener Nancy Ham for contributing to this article.

References used for this column were:
Koeser, A., G. Hasing, and D. McLean. (2016). Plumeria: Propagation from Cuttings. IFAS Publication Number ENH1228. Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved from http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/EP/EP48900.pdf.

Park Brown, S. (2014). Gardening with Perennials in Florida. IFAS Publication Number ENH-68. Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved from http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/MG/MG03500.pdf.

Park Brown, S. (2016). Plant Propagation Techniques for the Florida Gardener. IFAS Publication Number CIR579. Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved from http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/MG/MG10800.pdf.

Published June 28, 2017

We’re on the lookout for water-wise landscapes

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Pasco County Extension and Tampa Bay Water are looking for yards that demonstrate practices that reduce the waste of water, while still presenting a lovely oasis.
(Courtesy of Whitney C. Elmore)

The Pasco County Extension Office and Tampa Bay Water are looking for attractive landscapes with irrigation systems or techniques that minimize water waste and represent the best in Florida-Friendly Landscaping.

We would love to present your outdoor oasis for relaxation and a haven for wildlife as a powerful environmentally friendly example of Florida-Friendly LandscapingTM.

Florida-Friendly Landscaping is a concept based on the use of low-maintenance plants and environmentally sustainable practices.

  • Using the right plant, in the right place
  • Watering efficiently
  • Fertilizing appropriately
  • Mulching appropriately
  • Attracting wildlife
  • Managing yard pests responsibly
  • Recycling yard waste
  • Reducing stormwater runoff
  • Protecting the waterfront

When planning, establishing, and maintaining a Florida-Friendly Landscape, the appropriate use of each of these principles can produce a beautiful landscape that’s low maintenance, cost efficient and environmentally friendly.

A Florida-Friendly yard is a win for everyone and for the environment, as it helps to conserve and protect our water.

Many Pasco residents already incorporate these practices into their landscapes. Some have done so without expending much time, effort or money.

By using these principles, many Pasco County residents have produced relaxing outdoor spaces — worthy of gracing the front page of a lawn and garden magazine.

When the right plant is planted in the right place, it can thrive without excessive watering. You can use micro-irrigation to deliver water where it is needed, and use mulch to conserve moisture and reduce weeds.
(Courtesy of the University of Florida)

In Pasco County, the UF/IFAS Extension Office has a Florida-Friendly Landscaping Program Manager and Program Coordinator, funded by our partners at Tampa Bay Water.

As part of Tampa Bay Water’s efforts to conserve water, they offer the Water Wise Awards each year to recognize attractive, water-conserving landscapes at homes, businesses, industry and government.

In conjunction with our UF/IFAS Pasco Extension professionals, a winner is selected during landscape evaluations, and that winner is acknowledged with a beautiful, handmade mosaic stepping stone and recognition from the Pasco Board of County Commissioners.

If you would like to submit your landscape for an evaluation, simply go to TampaBayWaterWise.org, and click on the entry link.

The deadline for Water Wise Award applications is June 30, 2017.

It’s quick, simple, and a fun way to recognize the work that you’ve done to create your personal oasis.

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Want to know more about gardening?
Check out these workshops:

                      

#101 Propagation From Seeds
June 3, 10 a.m., Pasco Extension Office 36702 State Road 52, Dade City: Learn how to create an attractive and productive garden at this free workshop. Learn how to successfully germinate seeds. Registration is required. (The same workshop is also being offered June 8 at 2 p.m., at Centennial Park Library, 5740 Moog Road in Holiday).

Bonsai: The Art & Technique
June 6, 6:30 p.m., Hudson Library, 8012 Library Road, Hudson: Free seminar focuses on an introduction to the art of bonsai, a unique combination of horticulture and art. Registration is required.

Colorful Container Gardening
June 10, 9 a.m., Land O’ Lakes Community Center, 5401 Land O Lakes Blvd., Land O’ Lakes: Learn how to plant flowers, foliage and herbs in containers at this free workshop. Registration is required.

Attracting Pollinators to your Garden
June 10, 10 a.m., Zephyrhills Library, 5347 Eighth St., in Zephyrhills: Learn what elements are needed in the home garden to attract butterflies and hummingbirds at this free seminar. Registration is required.

Easy to Grow Native Plants & Their Pollinators
June 20, 2 p.m., New River Library, 34043 State Road 54, Wesley Chapel: Learn about native plants that are easy to grow and find out about these plant’s pollinators, too, at this free workshop. Registration is required.

Registration for workshops can be made through EventBrite. Search under the name of the seminar, it should pop up.

Published May 10, 2017

Back to the basics in plant propagation: Saving seeds

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Seeds help us save money because saving seed is cheaper than buying seeds. We can grow different types of plants, adding more interest to our garden, and we can share plants grown by seed with others.

It’s easy to save sunflower seeds. Sunflowers also attract pollinators.
(Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

You can save seeds from many common plants, such as marigolds, salvias, herbs and vegetables. Save seeds of the plants and vegetables you like and that do well in your garden.

Many native plants produce seeds that support pollinators such as bees, wasps and flies. The plants and their seeds promote biodiversity and food security. Seed banks throughout the world save and protect plant seeds in climate-controlled vaults so we have access to them in case of an emergency or environmental disaster.

Seeds are diverse.

We use them to grow new plants, we eat them, and we use them in cooking.

It’s easier to grow plants from heirloom seeds than it to grow plants from hybrid seeds. Heirloom plants are open-pollinated. Hybrid plants are cross-pollinated between two different species or varieties for specific, desired traits. When hybrid plants produce seed, the next generation may not have the same characteristics as the parent plant. You can experiment and save seeds from a hybrid plant, but you don’t know what the offspring will look like.

Seeds are amazing!

Seed saving saves you money, and you can plant the varieties you like.

They have everything they need to survive in their own containers, and they wait for the right conditions to sprout. Seeds can be dry or wet. Dry seeds include acorns and marigold seeds. Wet seeds include eggplant and tomato seeds.

Seeds need time to dry. If you pick them too early, they may mildew. This is especially common with bean pods picked too early.

Basil is an example of an easy-to-grow dry seed. Let a few old flower heads go to seed. Once dry, cut off the flower heads and shake out the seeds. Store them in a container until ready to plant. I start them under a glass cloche in starter pots. The glass cloche acts like a mini terrarium, and keeps the seeds moist and protected.

Some people use blossom bags to save seeds. You can also use mesh bags out of the laundry section or muslin bags from a local brewery. Place the bag over the blossom to protect the seeds and to allow them to dry out. The bag collects the seeds as they dry, protecting them from birds and wildlife, wind or rain.

Save and store dry seeds in containers. Plant them in the garden next year.

Harvest wet seeds, such as eggplants, when beyond market maturity. Market maturity is when vegetables are ready to be eaten. However, when saving these seeds, you want to make sure the vegetables are little “past their prime.” For example, if you open an eggplant ready to use in a recipe, you can try to save the seeds, but the seeds are tiny and not quite mature. You would want to “sacrifice” two vegetables, and let them mature before you save the seeds. Otherwise, you’ll harvest too early and the seed won’t germinate. Eggplants are very easy to grow from seed.

Clean the seeds saved from wet fruit like tomatoes and squash. These seeds have a coating or fleshy fruit that encloses them and keeps them from sprouting on their own until favorable growing conditions or when ready to be eaten by an animal in a brightly colored fruit.

Marigolds are colorful flowers. Their seeds are easy to save, and they have edible flowers.

Place wet seeds in a bowl of water. Wipe off the pulp and fleshy parts. Dry them completely on parchment paper, fine mesh screen or a paper towel. If you use a paper towel, the seeds will stick. However, Master Gardener Nancy Ham stores the entire paper towel in a large zip-top bag, and cuts the seeds out and plants them, along with the paper towel, when needed.

There are three main types of plants: annuals, biennials and perennials. This will help you learn when to save seeds. Annuals (like marigolds) grow and set seed in one year or growing season. Biennials grow in the first year and then set seed the following year. Parsley is an example of a biennial plant. Other examples are collards, kale, onions, garlic, radishes and carrots.

Perennial plants, and many ornamentals, live year after year. Examples of perennial landscape plants include blackberry lily, with a blackberry-like seedpod, chives, and sage.

You don’t need to spend money on a fancy container to store your seeds. You can use (and recycle) old prescription bottles, return mail envelopes, spice jars and glass jars. Always be sure to save your original seed packet so you have your reference information.

Seeds need three conditions for storage: dry, dark and cool. Good examples include a linen closet or refrigerator.

Proper labeling is essential.

Seeds are living organisms, and they have a lifespan. You’ll want to note the species or common name, variety, source and year harvested.

Remember, seeds can preserve our food diversity, both for humans and wildlife, and save us money. Look around your garden and see what “free” seeds you can find. Try saving seed from one plant or vegetable so you can grow new plants or share them with friends.

For additional information, email , or call (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

References:
Heirloom Vegetable Varieties for Florida. (2016). EDIS. Retrieved from  http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/topic_heirloom_vegetables.

Park Brown, S., D. Treadwell, J.M. Stephens, and S. Webb. (2016). Florida Vegetable Gardening Guide. IFAS Publication Number SP 103. Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved from http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/VH/VH02100.pdf.

Thralls, E., S.P. Brown, and E. Paulson. (2015). Seed Sources for Florida Homegrown Vegetables. IFAS Publication Number ENH1225. Gainesville: University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved from http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/EP/EP48600.pdf.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County. She gratefully acknowledges Master Gardener Nancy Ham for contributing to this article.

Published April 12, 2017

There’s an art to the proper pruning of palms

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How do you know if you’ve properly pruned your palms?

There are some telltale signs.

A properly pruned, and healthy palm, should have a round canopy and green leaves from the top of the canopy down to the crown.

Unfortunately, too often palms are pruned too much — making them unattractive, unhealthy and weaker than a properly pruned palm.

Palms are not supposed to look like a flat rake or feather-duster.

This spindle palm is suffering from a severe potassium deficiency.
(Courtesy of Timothy K. Broschat, UF/IFAS)

The concept that “hurricane pruning” strengthens palms against strong winds and improves the tree’s health is contrary to research observations.

Palms with a more natural canopy are able to withstand higher winds and have less chance of becoming a structural hazard in a storm when compared to those that have been “hurricane” cut.

Pruning can damage the sensitive growing points, or heart, at the top of the plant, nestled at the base of the leaves.

With repeated over-pruning, palms can develop a tapered appearance just below the leaves, at the heart of the palm, which can become a weak point especially in high winds.

These plants have evolved in locations with a great potential for high wind storm events, so they are built for these conditions.

Palms rely on their leaves for nutrition, so removal of leaves/fronds drains the plant of vital nutrients. Research shows that nutrient-deficient plants have smaller leaves, reduced ability to make food and reduced canopy size. With repeated removal of green leaves, the palms may have smaller and weaker trunk diameters. These factors can lead to weakened and unhealthy plants.

Removal of nutrient deficient (not dead) leaves will eventually starve the plant of nutrients leading to the slow death of the palm.

So, which palms need to be pruned?

Tropical palms with crownshafts, or areas of the plant with bright green, tightly clasped leaf bases just above the trunk, do not need pruning. Many of the tropical palms will self-shed when leaves are dead, so very little pruning is required to maintain these palms. On these palms, old, dead leaves will simply fall off by themselves through a natural process.

However, these plants may sometimes exhibit nutrient deficiencies in older leaves toward the bottom of the plant.

Someone was too enthusiastic when pruning these palms. Too much pruning harms a palm tree’s health.

A leaf that’s deficient in potassium will begin to brown very quickly and can hang on for months. Older leaves show this deficiency first, since their nutrients are being used as they are being sacrificed by the plant to nourish the younger leaves. A deficient leaf doesn’t mean it’s a dead leaf, just one that needs nutrients.

If the leaf stays in its normal position and doesn’t droop or fall down against the trunk, it’s still alive, but this is a sign that the plant needs to be properly fertilized.

Those leaves that drop and hang against the side of the trunk, out of a normal upright position, are dead and can be pulled or pruned away.

Queen palms, various date palms, etc., which do not have crownshafts, frequently will have dead leaves that droop and hang on for months unless they are pruned away.

When pruning, be sure that pruning equipment is properly sanitized between use on different palm plants, as several fatal diseases can be spread from plant to plant by the equipment. A 5-minute soak in a disinfecting solution will help reduce the chance of spreading diseases.

Those palms with skirts made of dead leaves, such as Mexican fan palms, will eventually shed old leaves, but they can become hiding places for undesirable wildlife, such as rodents and snakes, so removal of skirts of dead leaves can sometimes be necessary.

So what, if anything, should be pruned from palms?

Flowers and completely dead leaves can be removed with no problems, but discolored or browning lower leaves should be left alone. They indicate that the plant needs to be properly fertilized.

If you find broken or kinked petioles (the long shafts leading from the leaf to the trunk), it’s acceptable to remove that leaf, especially if you fear it might fall and do damage.

The fruit of some palms can leave a mess at the base of the plant and cause unwanted sprouting. Removal of clusters of fruit is fine.

Some research even suggests that removal of flower and fruit stalks increases leaf production. Just keep in mind that any pruning should be done with sanitized equipment.

When should palms be pruned, if pruning is necessary?

There’s no specific time of the year when it’s better or worse to prune palms.

Only prune completely dead leaves when they appear, and certainly before a storm.

Pruning palms only when necessary will keep them healthier and you happier.

For information on how to properly fertilize palms and sanitize pruning equipment, call your local UF/IFAS Extension Office.

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension Director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published March 29, 2017