The Laker/Lutz News

Serving Pasco since 1981/Serving Lutz since 1964

Nature Notes

Seasonal growing — for food and color

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Short, cool days don’t necessarily scream gardening season.

But, many vegetables, herbs and beautiful flowers just love winter in Florida. December is a good month to plant cool season herbs, such as sage, dill, fennel, cilantro, thyme and parsley.

Veggies, such as carrot, cabbage, lettuce and cauliflower do well when planted at this time, too.

Azalea (Courtesy of UF/IFAS Communications)

Add a pop of color to your landscape by planting petunias, pansies, violets or snapdragons in December or early in the New Year.

Be sure to plant these in clusters — and stick to one type of plant to reduce the chance of cluttering the landscape with too many plants that don’t fit the rest of the landscape at this time of year.

Remember to collect those fallen leaves in fall and winter for use in compost, which will benefit your gardens later in the season.

Collecting the leaves is a great way to recycle and add organic matter to the garden for free. (To learn more about composting, visit: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep323).

January also is a great month for gardening in Central Florida.

Camellias come in a variety of sizes, shapes and colors. Some are even fragrant. January is a good time to plant camellias.

Cabbage

Deciduous fruit trees, or those that lose their leaves in winter, such as peaches, nectarines and plums, also should be planted in January. This gives their roots the best chance to grow and anchor the plant for nutrient uptake prior to the hotter and usually drier months of spring.

Start growing broccoli, carrots, lettuce, kale and potatoes at this time, too.

You’ve also probably noticed that many of the landscapes in Central Florida feature crapemyrtles. These small, popular trees charm us with color and variety, but often fall victim to heavy pruning at the wrong time of the year, which leaves them mutilated and struggling to survive.

The best time of the year to prune broken or crossing branches and remove seed pods from crapemyrtles is in January. Heavy pruning, or “crape murder,” is not necessary on these plants. A trim of slim, leggy branches will spruce them up in winter and prepare them for spring. (For more detailed information on proper pruning of crapemyrtles, visit: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep399).

Also, don’t let those colorful poinsettias you received as gifts in December go to waste. Plant them in a sunny, well-drained spot in the garden in January or February. They make excellent additions to the landscape. (Visit: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep349 for more information on using poinsettias in the landscape).

Azaleas, a Southern flowering staple suitable for the shadier areas, perform well when planted in February, as do many veggies.

While some veggies are cold-hardy, it might be necessary to protect more sensitive veggies on nights when frost or freeze is predicted. Cold protection, for sensitive plants, is necessary on nights when the temps dip below 40OF.

Crapemyrtle

Minimize damage to sensitive plants by covering with a light blanket or sheet, making sure it extends all the way down to the ground so that the warmth of the soil can move up into the canopy of the plant. (For more information on cold protection, visit: http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/weather/preparing-the-landscape-for-cold-weather.html).

February is a good month to prune away old rose canes and do selective pruning to shape the plant. Fertilize in February with a balanced fertilizer and apply mulch at this time. Within two months, your roses should be blooming beautifully.

March brings warmer weather, but it’s usually quite dry. Winter annuals will start to struggle with the higher temperatures, so consider planting salvia and caladiums (a perennial) to provide quick color well into the summer months.

March also ushers in warm-season vegetable planting. Squash, peppers and beans grow well when planted in March. Tomatoes are widely popular, but don’t grow well in the summer; consider planting them as soon as the threat of frost has gone, which is normally late February into the middle of March.

As soon as azaleas stop blooming, prune them in late March to achieve a better shape and denser plant (avoid hedge clippers on these plants though). March is the month to begin fertilizing palms, azaleas and camellias. Use balanced fertilizers designed for each of these plants, as their nutritional needs vary along with pH requirements. (For information on landscape fertilization, visit: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/mg448).

Winter is a fine time to garden in Central Florida. You can prep for spring gardening, grow your own veggies and add beautiful color to your landscape.

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published January 2, 2019

Keep your lawn healthy during winter and fall

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As we move into fall and winter, there are some things you can do to keep your lawn looking good.

First things first: Identify the type of grass you have in your lawn.

Next, read the appropriate University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (UF/IFAS) publication for your type of turfgrass.

Follow UF/IFAS turfgrass recommendations with regard to mowing, watering, fertilizing and pest control. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

For example, Central Florida has St. Augustinegrass (the most common lawn in Florida), bahiagrass, zoysiagrass and Bermudagrass.

One resource that can prove very helpful is a free online library at the University of Florida called EDIS, which stands for “Electronic Data Information Source.” (The EDIS website is http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/).

After you know what type of turf you have, be sure to keep track of how much water your lawn gets by rain and irrigation. An inexpensive rain gauge is a good tool to measure rainfall.

During cool, winter months, many people skip a week of watering. Calibrate your sprinklers to make sure you deliver ½-inch to ¾-inch of water per irrigation event. If your sprinklers (or rainfall) provide that amount of water a few times per week, irrigation or rainfall is enough.

You’ll also need to check your fertilizer applications. Remember, Florida turfgrasses are warm-season grasses. They all go dormant during winter, which results in slower growth, and less needed inputs of water and fertilizer.

Lawns may turn brown or appear off-color, but resist the urge to fertilize your lawn in winter.

Winter fertilizer applications can damage lawns, especially zoysiagrass lawns, which have a very slow spring “green-up” period. Zoysiagrass prefers to be “spoon-fed” fertilizer. A winter fertilizer application on zoysiagrass can cause unhealthy turf the following year.

There’s a chart available through the University of Florida that provides general fertilizer recommendations for different turfgrasses. It also provides guidance on when to apply a complete fertilizer, slow-release fertilizer and other nutrients, if needed.

Look for the Central Florida section, then find your type of turfgrass.

The chart also provides recommendations for basic, moderate and high maintenance levels.

Turfgrasses which are under the “basic” or “moderate” schedule for Central Florida have no fertilizer applications during December, January and February, according to the chart.

It’s also important to keep in mind that many of our Florida soils are high in phosphorous (P) (we mine phosphorous locally). Therefore, you should not apply phosphorous unless you have a soil test report showing a P-deficiency. This happens occasionally, but since most of our soils have sufficient P, adding more in the form of fertilizer will not produce a crop or plant response because there is enough available. However, adding more P than needed can result in increased nutrient runoff and leaching, which affects our water bodies, groundwater and springs.

How do you avoid fertilizer that has P? When you shop, look for products with zero or very low phosphorous. These products are becoming increasingly available because of summer fertilizer ordinances and because people understand the potential for pollution if used when they’re not needed.

It’s also good to know that proper mowing height is one of the main things you can do to promote a healthy lawn.

Regular cultivars of St. Augustinegrass should be mowed at 3 inches to 4 inches; most dwarf cultivars of St. Augustinegrass should be mowed at 2.5 inches; bahiagrass should be mowed at 3 inches to 4 inches; zoysiagrass at 2 inches to 2.5 inches; and Bermudagrass at 0.5 inches to 1.5 inches.

In shady areas, consider replacing sod with an appropriate groundcover and mulch. Turfgrass needs at least six hours of sunlight daily, so if an area isn’t receiving that much, the lawn there will likely never thrive. A groundcover may be a better choice.

If weeds are an issue, find out if they are broadleaf, sedge or grassy weeds.

Make a note on your calendar and plan to use a preemergence herbicide around Feb. 15 in Central Florida to stop weed seeds from germinating and to reduce weed pressure next year.

A soil fertility test can tell you if your lawn is low in potassium. We’re learning a lot about potassium, including the fact that it contributes to healthy plants and turfgrass, and that it helps with disease resistance. When buying fertilizer, make sure the nitrogen (N) to potassium (K) is balanced with a 1:1 or 2:1 ratio.

Each fall, I over-seed my lawn with annual ryegrass. Ryegrass keeps weeds down during winter months and provides beautiful “Easter” grass color until it begins to warm up around April the following year.  You can put ryegrass down in months that end in “R,” but I generally try to seed ryegrass in September/October to enjoy the bright, green color for months.

For additional information, contact or (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Sources for this column included “Mowing Your Florida Lawn” by L.E. Trenholm, J.B. Unruh and J.L. Cisar; and, Weed Management Guide for Florida Lawns by J.B. Unruh, R.G. Leon, B.J. Brecke and L.E. Trenholm.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published December 5, 2018

Gearing up for fall lawn care

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As we move into fall, it’s time to review our lawn care strategies.

It’s important to be proactive with lawn care, and not rely solely on fungicides or insecticides.

If your lawn is regularly under stress from lack of water, poor fertilization, excessive traffic, insect damage, or injurious mowing techniques, it will be more susceptible to diseases and pests.

Earwigs are considered beneficial because they feed on chinch bugs, mole crickets and other insects in the soil. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

It’s important to be on the lookout for problems, because it is easier to identify and solve pest and disease issues when they are noticed early.

For example, large patch is a fungal disease that occurs when temperatures cool, typically from November to May.

Large patch primarily affects St. Augustinegrass and zoysiagrass lawns.

Unfortunately, many disease problems aren’t noticed until the roots are destroyed, and the above-ground leaves appear yellow or brown.

Sometimes, homeowners see these symptoms, and respond with additional water and/or fertilizer.  Unfortunately, if the problem is fungal, water and fertilizer can worsen the situation.

Once fungus has damaged a plant, that portion of the plant cannot “heal.”

Fungicides help stop the disease from spreading to healthy plant tissue. Homeowner-approved fungicides may be applied, but they do not repair dead or dying turf.

If you spot and treat disease early, turf damage may be minimal, and you should see improved growth in the healthier areas of the lawn. But, if you wait too long, the disease may progress quickly, killing grass and resulting in costly treatment and sod replacement.

What should you do if you see a problem?
Bring a sample of your turf to your local county Extension office. A good sample size is a square-foot of grass. Select your sample from an area that is on the border between healthy grass and the discolored or unhealthy-looking grass.

Chinch bug adults are only about 5 mm (0.2-inch) long. Properly identifying the cause or problem is important because you want to treat appropriately.

This type of sample shows a progression of symptoms, and helps Extension staff and master gardener volunteers to determine what issue is affecting your lawn.

Use a shovel to dig up this piece of sod, including the roots. Then, place the sample on newspaper or in a cardboard box and bring it to your local Extension office.  (You may place the sample back in the yard when you return home.)

Another option is to send a sample directly to the University of Florida lab. The lab will determine if a pathogen is present on the turf and has a quick turnaround time with a preliminary diagnosis provided within 24 hours to 48 hours.

A Rapid Turfgrass Diagnosis costs $75 per sample, and you will receive a report with recommendations. For more information about this, go to this link: turf.ufl.edu/rapiddiag_general.shtml.

Insects that may be present include fall armyworms, chinch bugs, mole crickets and sod webworms.  Check the free, UF/IFAS online library, called “EDIS,” for more information on each of these pests, and other gardening and home topics.  EDIS stands for Electronic Data Information Source, and the website is edis.ifas.ufl.edu.

If you don’t know if you have an insect or disease problem, rule out the insects first.

Do a soap flush
When you notice signs of damage, do a soap flush. Besides being simple, sometimes people discover they have beneficial insects in their yards. For instance, earwigs and big-eyed bugs eat chinch bugs.

To perform a soap flush, you’ll need:

  • Liquid dishwashing soap. Some publications suggest that lemon-scented works best (Note: Don’t use a degreaser)
  • A watering can or bucket
  • A container or zip-top bag to collect insects for ID

Here’s what you do:

  • Look for an area that shows a progression of symptoms, such as an area with signs of damage and no damage.
  • Use a watering can to mix 2 Tablespoons of liquid dishwashing soap with 2 gallons of water.
  • Apply the soap mixture to a 2 foot-by-2 foot area of grass.
  • Wait 2 minutes to 3 minutes. Insects will begin to appear as they move to the soil surface.
  • Flush late in the afternoon or early morning for best results.
  • Check for different stages of an insect’s life cycle, such as adults and caterpillars.
  • Collect samples. Bring to the Extension office for assistance, identification and control recommendations.
  • Repeat the process in several areas of the yard to get a good sample of insects present.

If you need help identifying an insect, check with your local county Extension office.

For additional information, check out these IFAS publications: “Insect Pest Management on Turfgrass” by E. Buss and A. Dale (2017) and “Turfgrass Disease Management” by M.L. Elliott and P.F. Harmon (2018). Both of these publications were used as sources of information for this column.

For additional information, contact p, or call (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

By Nicole Pinson
Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published October 3, 2018

Food safety issues aren’t confined to the kitchen

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Several high-profile cases of food poisoning and related illnesses recently have caught the attention of home gardeners.

Infections caused by rat lungworm from slugs, and infections caused by E. coli and Salmonella bacteria contamination are not new.

When you water plants intended for consumption, the water should be coming from a potable (drinkable) source. Reclaimed water is not suitable for edible food crops grown at home. Reclaimed water is recycled wastewater. (Courtesy of UF/IFAS)

Thousands of food safety fact sheets, videos and classes are available regarding our understanding and prevention of these illnesses, especially to those working in the food preparation industries and agricultural commodities.

The United States has the best food safety protocols and regulations on the planet, but the occasional parasite slips through undetected from improper handling, preparation or storage. Some of these illnesses are short-lived while some, especially in immune-compromised individuals, young children or senior-citizens, can develop life-threatening illnesses. Luckily, this is extremely rare, considering the amount of foods grown, produced, processed, shipped, stored and cooked across the nation.

Some home gardeners feel more confident in their ability to grow and store their own produce safely.

However, this doesn’t necessarily mean the produce is safer or that you can stop taking precautions in your quest to grow and store homegrown produce properly.

Regardless of where your produce is grown, it is exposed to the environment and potential pests. Mostly, those pests are only interested in eating your plants and do us no harm, but how we handle our plants, both while they’re in the ground and during harvest is important in preventing illnesses.

Leafy plants, such as lettuce, kale and cabbage, have hundreds of nooks and crannies where water can get trapped on the leaf surface.

Plus, these are potentially good areas for parasites to set up a protected home, if the water that gets on these leaves is contaminated. And, this could be a potential problem, if we don’t properly wash and cook our produce.

Leafy plants, such as lettuce, kale and cabbage have hundreds of nooks and crannies where water can get trapped on the leaf surface. These are potentially good areas for parasites to set up a protected home, if the water that gets on these leaves is contaminated.

However, this doesn’t mean you shouldn’t buy or grow leafy veggies, as they are just as safe as any others.

All fruits and veggies have a potential to harbor parasites. It’s about how we handle and prepare them that means the difference between a great meal and potential illness.

When you water plants intended for consumption, the water should be coming from a potable (drinkable) source. Reclaimed water is not suitable for edible food crops grown at home. Reclaimed water is recycled wastewater.

Water from rain barrels is also not recommended on edible plants or veggie gardens, as parasites from bird droppings and chemicals from roofing materials, and so on, might be present in rain barrel water.

If water from these sources gets on the leaves and the produce isn’t thoroughly washed at harvest and before cooking, there’s a potential for bacteria and other parasites to hide in those nooks.

Your plant roots, not leaves, should be watered carefully, not just to prevent parasites but to also ensure the plant can use the water.

Roots, not leaves, absorb water. Plus, water on the leaves can promote plant diseases. These diseases won’t make you sick, but they can certainly cause some heartache if your plants die. Furthermore, if you have slugs or snails eating on your plants, and you’re not controlling them, there’s a very small risk of consuming tiny slugs/snails with parasites. Keeping an eye out for these during harvest is an easy way to prevent storing them in your veggies.

All veggies and fruits, whether they are grown at home or purchased from a store, should be carefully washed and inspected for potential “creepy crawlies” before consumption.

Proper washing, cooking and sanitation are just as critical in food storage and preparation as safe handling in the garden.

Planning your garden carefully can also make our foods less susceptible to contamination. Some spots in the garden might be more prone to pet urination or contamination from feces washing across the soil surface during heavy rains and irrigation events.

Food safety isn’t just for the kitchen.

Food-borne illnesses can be prevented. Food safety starts in the garden.

For more information about food safety, and proper storage and handling instructions, please visit: Harvesting Vegetables and Food Preservation and Safety. For information about controlling snails and slugs in the garden, visit: Snails and Slugs.

The University of Florida’s Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (UF/IFAS) is a federal, state, and county partnership dedicated to developing knowledge in agriculture, human and natural resources, and the life sciences and to making that knowledge accessible to sustain and enhance the quality of human life.

By Whitney C. Elmore

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published August 15, 2018

Ways to water wisely during summer months

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Water is essential — not only for life itself, but also to support Florida’s landscapes, recreational activities and beautiful vistas.

Residents and tourists enjoy our waterways and participate in recreational activities such as fishing, swimming and boating.

Water is essential to our life in Florida. We can have beautiful landscapes and conserve water at the same time. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

We use water from public municipalities and private wells for household, industrial and agricultural uses.

Water also is necessary for wildlife, our environment and our quality of life. However, more than 50 percent of the water we consume at home is used to irrigate lawns and landscapes.

Dr. Laura Warner, from the University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, put it like this: “A message for residents is that we can have beautiful landscapes that increase the value of our homes, provide habitat for pollinators and animals, (provide) a place to socialize with friends and family – and we can do all that while saving water.”

Follow these steps to keep lawns and landscapes healthy, while conserving water at the same time:

  • Water your landscape during the coolest part of the day, or in the evening, to reduce water loss through evaporation. Watering in the morning coincides closely with the dew point and reduces the window of time water stays on plant leaves.
  • Calibrate your irrigation system to deliver 1/2-inch water to 3/4-inch water per irrigation event. Overwatering lawns harms long-term turf health. Overwatering greatly increases disease susceptibility and thatch buildup, and also leads to a shorter root system, which reduces the turf’s overall stress tolerance and ability to survive with less water. It also promotes the growth of certain weed species, such as dollarweed and sedges.
  • If you have a rain gauge, and it indicates your yard has received equal or greater 1/2-inch water to 3/4-inch of water, you don’t need to provide additional water through irrigation. Shut off or adjust your irrigation system when you get plenty of rain. The simple practice of checking an inexpensive rain gauge to track rainfall, and then adjusting your irrigation system, can save gallons of water, can keep your lawn and landscape healthy, and can reduce disease potential from fungus and other problems.
  • Check your irrigation system seasonally to calibrate the system. Repair or replace broken sprinkler heads, and ensure valves open and close properly.
  • Plan your irrigation based on plant needs and zones. For example, turfgrass requires more irrigation than landscape beds with established trees. Turfgrass growing in the shade requires less water than turfgrass growing in full sun. Adjust areas like these to save water and to keep plants healthy. Homes that average 35 percent turf and 65 percent landscape beds use 39 percent less water when compared to homes with more turf and fewer landscape beds. The potential savings is 1,440 gallons to 1,800 gallons of water per week based on watering your landscape twice a week.
  • Apply a layer of mulch that is 2-inches to 3-inches thick in your landscape beds and vegetable gardens using pine straw, pine nuggets or melaleuca mulch. Mulch provides many benefits. It conserves soil moisture, keeps plant roots cool, adds organic matter to the soil and improves soil texture as it breaks down over time. Reduce splashing water, as it can move disease-causing fungal spores to plant leaves. A layer of mulch at the base of landscape plants reduces splashing water from sprinkler systems and rain.
  • Choose drought-tolerant plants. Consult the Florida-Friendly Landscaping Guide to Plant Selection and Landscape Design for ideas.
  • Be aware that container plants that dry out quickly benefit from micro-irrigation systems. There are patio micro-irrigation kits that direct water to each pot and at the base of plants.
  • When it rains, water collects and moves quickly across gutters, driveways and other nonpervious surfaces. A benefit of pervious surfaces is they allow rainwater to percolate down into the soil and recharge the aquifer. Reduce the volume of rainwater that contributes to stormwater runoff by installing rain barrels and using pervious surfaces such as mulched paths in your landscape.
  • If you have an irrigation system, install a rain shutoff device.
  • Let your lawn tell you when to water. Look for folded grass blades, footprints or tire tracks that remain on the grass, and a bluish tint to the grass. The University of Florida/IFAS recommends delivering 1/2-inch water to 3/4-inch of water to your lawn and landscape per irrigation event, which provides enough water to reach the root zone.
  • Follow water restrictions and guidelines set forth by your county or city municipality and the Southwest Florida Water Management District.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published August 1, 2018

Hurry, entries due soon for this year’s Water Wise awards

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Does your yard have what it takes to be a winner of a Water Wise Award?

The University of Florida/Institute for Food and Agricultural Sciences Pasco County Office Extension and Tampa Bay Water would like to recognize attractive, yet water-efficient landscapes.

Your yard could be a contender for a Water Wise Award if you already follow these simple steps:

  • Put the right plant in the right place
  • Fertilize and mulch appropriately
  • Attract wildlife
  • Manage yard pests responsibly
  • Recycle yard waste
  • Reduce storm water runoff
  • Protect the waterfront

Water is a precious resource that some take for granted.

This is an example of a landscape that uses a variety of techniques that creates an attractive appearance, while using water wisely.
(Courtesy of Jim Moll)

In Pasco County, the UF/IFAS Extension Office has a Florida Friendly Program Manager and Program Coordinator funded by a partnership with Tampa Bay Water.

One of the efforts of our partnership is to recognize landscapes that are attractive and utilize water efficiently — whether the landscape is at a home, business, industry or government location.

How do you know if you are water efficient?

For some gardeners, this may be a very simple question to answer, if you only use rain, or harvest rainwater and store it in rain barrels, or you use an irrigation system only when necessary during drought.

Sometimes, though, it is too dry and you might need to irrigate.

You can quickly figure out your indoor water use with this simple formula: For each person living in the home, assume 2,000 gallons of water is used, per person, per month.

Additional usage is likely to be used outdoors.

Efficient landscape watering uses about 460 gallons for every 1,000 square feet of irrigated landscape. So, a 5,000-square-foot yard would need about 2,300 gallons per irrigation event.

Many Pasco County residents have created interesting and relaxing landscapes that use even less water than the 460 gallons per 1000 square feet.

Residents deserve to be recognized for water savings. They also can serve as examples to others through demonstrating ways to balance attractive design, right plants in the right place, beautiful landscaping elements, and water efficiency.

Please take a few moments to submit your landscape for an evaluation, by simply going to TampaBayWaterWise.org. The deadline for submissions is June 30.

You can learn more about Florida Friendly LandscapingTM by attending one of the many gardening classes offered by the Pasco County Extension Office by going to our website http://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/pasco/ or https://ffl.ifas.ufl.edu/.

Jim Moll is the Florida-Friendly Landscaping Program Manager at UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension.

Published June 27, 2018

Keeping cool, as temperatures soar

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Florida, with its subtropical conditions, can reach temperatures that pose hazards to human health, according to the Florida Department of Health.

Because of that, it’s important to take precautions to protect ourselves when doing outdoor tasks, such as gardening, during warm weather.

Here are some preventative measures to keep in mind:

  • Protect your skin with sunscreen. Be sure it has a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of 15 or more and that it blocks UV A&B rays. Be sure to apply your sunscreen 30 minutes before working outdoors and to reapply if you are working outdoors for long periods of time, or if you perspire a lot. Avoid sunburns, which make it harder for you to stay cool and comfortable.
  • Protect your eyes with sunglasses.
  • Wear lightweight, breathable clothing such as a light-colored, long-sleeved shirt and pants.
  • Drink plenty of water, or other drinks that replace electrolytes in your body. A lack of water can lead to dehydration, which can become a dangerous condition. Be sure to stay hydrated. The hotter it is, the more fluids you will need.
  • Do your work before it gets hot or after it cools down. The hottest part of the day is generally between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. Plan strenuous work during the cooler hours of the day. Don’t work outdoors when there is a heat warning issued.
  • Rotate your gardening tasks between heavy work and light work. For example, you could prune or saw branches and then switch to tasks such as weeding or deadheading flowers.

Take regular breaks and enjoy those breaks in the cool areas of your garden.

Of course, even with precautions, there’s a possibility you can become overheated, so it’s important to know the signs and symptoms of heat-related illness, and how to respond.

Take precautions to protect your health to avoid symptoms of heat stress. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

For many of us, it may take some time to acclimate to work in hot weather.

Other personal characteristics such as age, weight, health and physical fitness can also be factors for heat stress.

The Florida Department of Health explains: “Individuals with heart conditions may not be able to tolerate the increased cardiac output leading to an adverse cardiac event.”

So, be sure to monitor yourself for symptoms of heat stress, especially if you are ill or taking medication.

Heat disorders occur when your body cannot rid itself of excess heat, which may be caused by overexertion, such as exercise or garden work, or, overexposure to heat.

Symptoms of heat cramps include painful muscle spasms of arms, legs or abdomen, sudden onset of pain/muscle cramps, heavy sweating and hot/moist skin.

Heat exhaustion is a more severe type of heat disorder. Its causes include dehydration or inadequate time to become acclimated to outdoor work.

Signs and symptoms of heat exhaustion can include heavy sweating, intense thirst, pale/moist/cool skin, rapid pulse, fatigue, weakness, headache, dizziness, fainting and/or collapse.

Heat stroke is the most severe heat disorder. It occurs when your body’s system of temperature regulation fails and body temperatures reach dangerous levels. Signs and symptoms include high body temperature, lack of sweating, hot/red/dry/skin, rapid pulse, chills, difficulty breathing, confusion, disoriented weakness and unconsciousness.

When you or someone you know experiences a heat disorder, it’s important to know what to do.

  • Stop working if you experience sudden and severe fatigue, nausea, dizziness, lightheadedness or fainting.
  • Pay attention to your body if you stop sweating, and your skin becomes hot and dry.

For minor issues, such as heat cramps, drink water, massage the cramped area and rest.

For heat exhaustion, move to a shady location or air-conditioned space. Rest. Drink water. Lie down with your legs elevated.

When a person experiences heat stroke, call 911 for emergency responders. While help is on the way, keep the person cool with ice.

Ninety percent of all heat-related illness emergency department visits occur during the warm season, according to the Florida Department of Health.

As we move into summer, plan ahead and use care when working in your landscapes.

Practice common sense and remember: Take breaks if you feel tired. Be sure to wear protective clothing and sunscreen. Listen to your body. Rotate garden tasks with varying levels of intensity, and stay hydrated.

For additional information, email , or call (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is an Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County. She gratefully acknowledges Gerri Almand, UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County Master Gardener for her help in preparing this article. For additional information, you can reach Pinson at (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Published May 30, 2018

Caladiums offer a kaleidoscope of color

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If you’re looking for a plant that brings color and interest to the landscape, consider adding some caladiums to your yard.

Caladiums produce vibrant colors and stunning patterns on their leaves, which attract attention.

They are tropical foliage plants that thrive in shady nooks and crannies making them easy to grow in Florida’s hot, humid weather.

Selecting a color may be the most difficult thing about growing caladiums — since planting is simple and maintenance minimal.
(Courtesy of University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences)

Caladiums look great as landscape plants, but also stand out in pots and containers.

Perhaps best of all: Caladiums offer beautiful color displays from summer to fall and again in the spring.

There are dozens of cultivars to choose from. Some have large, heart-shaped leaves, while others have long, narrow leaves reminiscent of an arrow.

The color kaleidoscope ranges from shades of green to red, purple, pinks, white, and variegated mixes of multiple colors.

Leaves average from 6 inches to 12 inches in height, and they grow fast, reaching mature size in just one season.

Selecting a color may be the most difficult thing about growing caladiums — since planting is simple and maintenance is minimal.

Caladiums grow from underground tubers, and you can purchase them already having stems or without.

The tubers are “knobby” with “eyes” much like a potato.

When planting, place that knobby side up, with at least 2 inches between each tuber. Plant them no more than 2 inches deep.

Plant the tubers when the soil temperature is at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit, as tubers will not do well in cooler soils.

Caladiums like a lot of moisture; they do not like saturated or dry soil.

Remember, these are tropical plants, so they’ll need to be watered frequently to keep them moist.

Mulching around the plant helps lock in moisture and makes the area more appealing as well, but it’s not required.

When they die back in the winter, simply cut away the stems and wait for their return in spring.

Some caladiums have been bred to tolerate direct sun, but morning sun is best with shade for the rest of the day. This makes them a perfect addition under the beautiful oaks where sunlight is limited.

Growing caladiums in shade helps the leaves to be more vibrant in color when compared to full sun, too.

Fertilize caladiums with a soluble fertilizer, based on label directions, but be sure you fertilize the soil and avoid the leaves, as the fertilizer can burn the delicate leaves.

Shade gardening with caladiums is a simple and fun way to add color with a dramatic impact to your landscape.

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published April 18, 2018

Adding flavor to your foods, with herbs you grow

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People have used herbs in cooking for thousands of years.

They add unique flavors to food, as well as a touch of color to meals.

Herbs grown in Florida include basil, chives, dill, mint, parsley and sage.

Buying pre-packaged containers of herbs can be used in a recipe in a pinch, but why not grow your own? You can save money and enjoy a nice long season of fresh flavor.

Sweet basil and mint are two types of herbs that can be grown in a Florida garden. (Courtesy of Nicole Pinson)

Herbs make beautiful additions to cooked dishes, and you can plant a variety of herbs, such as cilantro and mint, at this time of year.

Some herbs are perennials, which means they last more than one year or season when planted.

Planting perennial herbs can extend their harvest. Chives, mint, oregano, tarragon and rosemary are examples of perennial herbs. We mix them into our existing landscape here at the UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County teaching and demonstration gardens.

To purchase herbs for planting, visit local garden centers and farmers’ markets. They often carry herb plants in small pots that you may take home and plant in containers or directly in the garden.

Or, why not try growing them from seed?

When selecting herbs for containers, group them by their water needs. Rosemary, a popular herb, prefers well-drained soil and will need less water than an herb such as parsley.

Most herbs prefer similar soil and sunlight as vegetables, and they may be inter-planted with vegetables and landscape plants in containers or in the soil. For example, some gardeners plant rosemary near walkways, paths and fences.

Be sure to harvest your herbs.

Herbs benefit from being picked, clipped and pinched.

Harvesting your herbs will help the plants stay compact, produce new growth and may extend the amount of time the plants grow before going to seed.

When using fresh herbs, wash your hands with hot soapy water. Then, wash your fresh herbs by rinsing them under cold running water. Do not use soap or detergents. Fresh herbs may be dried with paper towels or a salad spinner (Minton and Maddox, 2015). Place cut, fresh herbs in the refrigerator by standing them up in a glass jar, vase or container filled with some water. Herbs may be frozen or chopped and stored in ice cube trays.

Dried herbs have a stronger flavor than fresh herbs. A tablespoon of finely cut, fresh herb is equal to about 1 teaspoon of dried herb or one-quarter teaspoon to one-half teaspoon of ground, dried herb (Stephens, 2010). When using herbs in recipes, add them to dishes and experiment with flavors. As a general rule, start with a quarter-teaspoon and add more according to your preferences.

Herbs, such as these parsley plants, grow well mixed in with other vegetables.

For maximum flavor, I add most herbs at the end of cooking. However, stronger, less delicate herbs such as oregano and rosemary may be added earlier in the cooking process

Many herbs make great garnishes.

Here’s a quick, go-to garnish: Chop fresh parsley with a little green onion and minced radishes. Mix together and store in a small container in the refrigerator. It’s a good garnish for soups, salads and tacos.

Fresh herbs may be used in marinades, drinks, dressings, and on seafood, eggs, cheeses, vegetables and rice dishes.

And, don’t forget to eat the flowers! Edible flowers include basil, rosemary and thyme.

According to Minton and Maddox, “Today, herbs often are used in cooking to enhance the flavor of foods without the addition of extra fat, sugar or sodium.” Herbs are good landscape choices for gardens and containers. They are generally easy to grow, even for beginning gardeners. They offer a healthy, colorful way to perk up food.

Contact your local Extension office if you need assistance with selecting and growing herbs in your garden.

For more information about herbs, read “Cooking with Fresh Herbs,” by E. Minton and M. Maddox, 2015, IFAS Publication Number FCS8932.

“Fresh Herbs: Safe Handling Practices for Consumers,” by A. Simmone, 2015, IFAS Publication Number FCS68748 is another good source.

Both of those publications provided information for this column.

For additional information, email , or call (813) 744-5519, ext. 54145.

Nicole Pinson is the Urban Horticulture Agent in Hillsborough County.

Published April 4, 2018

Gearing up for spring gardening

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It’s time to start your vegetables for spring planting.

January and February are great months to start gardening vegetables.

With the exception of sweet potatoes and okra, most of our vegetables grow best during spring and fall.

Be careful not to overseed to the point that the roots of seedlings grow together. That makes it difficult to remove them for transplanting. (Courtesy of Eden Santiago-Gomez, of the Pasco County Extension Office)

While spring hasn’t sprung just yet, now is a great time to set out veggies like collard and mustard greens, cabbage, and kale. Plants in this family are hardy and tolerant of the cold, while some of the other popular veggies are at risk of freezing.

You can get a jump-start on growing more cold-sensitive vegetables, such as tomatoes and peppers, by germinating them from seed and keeping them indoors or protected outside.

It’s simple to do.

Using a grow/germination tray with cells, egg cartons, or even milk jugs with the top removed, fill the container three-quarters of the way full with a seed starting potting soil, which you can pick up at any garden center or big box store.

Seed your tray or container according to the seed packet instructions, which usually includes adding a small amount of soil over the top of the seeds, and planting at a particular depth and spacing between seeds.

Be careful not to overseed to the point that the roots of seedlings grow together, making it difficult to remove them for transplanting.

You risk damaging sensitive young roots, if you have to separate roots.

If you find there are too many seedlings growing close together, simply thin them out early on.

Sometimes you can successfully separate and move crowded seedlings by carefully teasing the roots apart and replanting. It takes patience and a bit of luck, though.

Fertilizer isn’t necessary at this stage, since there are no roots present to uptake the nutrients.

Wait to fertilize until you have actual seedlings with a root system. Check by carefully tugging on the seedling to check for rooting.

It’s spring gardening time. Unlike most places, Florida has two vegetable gardening seasons: Spring and Fall. (Courtesy of the University of Florida/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences)

Keep seedlings watered to the point the soil is moist, but not wet to the touch. And, place them outside in a sunny spot, but cover or take them indoors if the temperature is expected to drop below 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

Be sure to remove covers as soon as the sun begins to shine on your trays, or you risk cooking your plants.

Alternatively, you can keep the seedlings in a westward facing window with plenty of light.

After a few days or weeks, depending on the species, you’ll have tiny seedlings that you simply need to keep moist.

At the end of February or in early March, you’ll need only remove the seedlings from their tray and set them out in your garden or your favorite decorative pot. Handle the seedlings carefully and don’t plant them any deeper than they already are in their germination tray.

Fertilize them, according to product directions, and keep the soil moist.

Soon, you’ll have a plentiful harvest, and a month earlier than everyone else.

The Joneses will be so jealous.

By Whitney C. Elmore

Dr. Whitney C. Elmore is the UF/IFAS Pasco County Extension director and an Urban Horticulture Agent III.

Published February 21, 2018